Reefkid88 Posted April 27, 2014 Share Posted April 27, 2014 Does anyone have any experience doing this ? I've tried to contact BoostLED about it via emails and voicemail with no repaonse to either. With a little guidance I know in supposed to connect the positive to the dim wire on the LDD and splice the negative lead into te negative on the driver going to the power supply,but I can't get the leds to turn on/off at the times I have set,but all the other functions work fine. Any ideas ? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 The LDD has one dimming pin, positive, so connect that to the positive 5v pin on the Typhon, and connect the negative pins to the main 48v power supply's COM port, not connected to the any of the driver's Vout negative. Do you have the time set properly on the controller? Is the time past when you have it set to have them turned off? Are you sure you've connected to the 5v set of PWM pins and not the 10v? Link to comment
Reefkid88 Posted April 28, 2014 Author Share Posted April 28, 2014 I have the hw's not the h's. I have the positive from the controller connected to the dim wire on the driver and the negative wire of the controller connected to the negative (black wire) on the driver I guess is whew I went wrong. Wired up how it is,the custom setting works. I can dim all channels up and down as a whole but not individually and turn off/on all channels as a whole but not individually. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 H and HW have the same pinouts, so the version doesn't matter. Are you using Meep's Typhon code? As far as I know the BoostLED Typhon code doesn't even contain a test setting, unless they updated it recently. Link to comment
Reefkid88 Posted April 28, 2014 Author Share Posted April 28, 2014 So,I need to connect the neagative leave to the COM on the power supply and not the driver then ? Okay,I'll fix that. I went off what I had gotten from a few people and then some help from RapidLED. I've tried to contact BoostLed multiple times with no response. No I'm not using meep's codes at all. Once I connect everything right,will that finally give me control over each channel seperately ? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 Yes, once everything is wired up, you set the start time for each channel, end time for each channel, maximum intensity for each channel, and ramp time for each channel (which is how long it takes to reach the set maximum intensity). Then it takes care of the rest! Link to comment
Reefkid88 Posted April 28, 2014 Author Share Posted April 28, 2014 I've already got all the settin locked in,so I'm good to go. I'll just swap some wire and reconnect some and I'll see how she does. Thanks yet again for the help Ben !! Link to comment
Reefkid88 Posted April 28, 2014 Author Share Posted April 28, 2014 Quick question,if I need to wire to my negative leads of the typhon to the "com" terminal which on my psu is -V why would it matter if the typhon lead is spliced into the vOut on my driver ? Just curious.. Is it messing with the voltage of the driver if it's done that way ? Link to comment
Reefed419 Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 Do I need to put some 10K resistors between the controller and the LDD? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 Do I need to put some 10K resistors between the controller and the LDD? Why? Quick question,if I need to wire to my negative leads of the typhon to the "com" terminal which on my psu is -V why would it matter if the typhon lead is spliced into the vOut on my driver ? Just curious.. Is it messing with the voltage of the driver if it's done that way ? Vout is your DC constant current circuit that the LEDs attach to. Link to comment
Reefkid88 Posted May 12, 2014 Author Share Posted May 12, 2014 I got everything figured out Ben,thanks. I'm using a storm controller now with no problems. Link to comment
Reefed419 Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 Why? Well the LDD boards all have the 10K pull down resistors. If not thats fine. just wondering, as when I was running the meepduino I had to add resistors. Just making sure I don't ruin any components. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 The pull-down resistor ties together the PWM pin and the Vin(-) pin so that if there is no active PWM signal, the LDD do not float high and instead shut off, which can save your corals if you are not running your lights at full intensity. The Arduino is natively 5v PWM like the LDD, so they don't need anything between them Link to comment
Reefkid88 Posted May 12, 2014 Author Share Posted May 12, 2014 I would assume you'd have to add resistors because it's pretty much a DIY PCB and controller correct ? As for Storms & Typhons it's already is configured and you're able to shut down each channel independtly ? Therefore cutting the power to it not letting the drivers drive at 100% like it normally would without the resistors. Am I understanding that right Ben ? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 Yes, that is if you are sending it signal (even the '0' signal from the controller still counts), but if you remove the dimming signal and leave the PWM wire open, if there is no 10K resistor tying it to the ground, then the LDD will float high (aka revert to full-on). Link to comment
Reefkid88 Posted May 12, 2014 Author Share Posted May 12, 2014 Okay. Now I know for future intrests. Question,off topic but it's my thread lol. How do I wire a CLG to use it as a power supply using LDD's ? Or can I not do that ? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 Just like you would the LDD - it has Vin +, -, and ground which connects to AC power, and it has Vout + and - that connect to the LDD Vin + and -, then the LDD Vout + and - go to the LEDs. Link to comment
Reefkid88 Posted May 12, 2014 Author Share Posted May 12, 2014 Okay sweet. I have 2 lights coming to me and the guy is giving me a CLG for each light as a psu. Just wasn't sure how much different it was to a open frame psu. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 Not really too different other than being sealed. Link to comment
Reefed419 Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 The pull-down resistor ties together the PWM pin and the Vin(-) pin so that if there is no active PWM signal, the LDD do not float high and instead shut off, which can save your corals if you are not running your lights at full intensity. The Arduino is natively 5v PWM like the LDD, so they don't need anything between them Thanks Ben, Glad to have some electrical help on here. You Da' Man! Link to comment
Reefkid88 Posted May 12, 2014 Author Share Posted May 12, 2014 Thanks Ben, Glad to have some electrical help on here. You Da' Man! There's quite a few very informative and helpful people on this forum,just few are willing to stretch out the necks and help. Ben has always been helpful even when I bug him lol. Link to comment
magical2506 Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 anyone using typhoon controller with two LDD drivers both LDD700 and LDD1000? Link to comment
Reefkid88 Posted August 25, 2015 Author Share Posted August 25, 2015 anyone using typhoon controller with two LDD drivers both LDD700 and LDD1000? I was at one point and time,what're the questions you have ? Link to comment
magical2506 Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 little scared, have not worked with electrical before....definitely will have questions.... Here are the list I have ordered yesterday. will work on the led this weekend. 1 LDD 700 HW, 1 LDD 1000 HW , 1 Typhoon controller with Typhoon output extension and heatsink. Also leds soldering kits. Here is my plan diagram below.... Link to comment
evilc66 Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 The 48v power supply does not connect to the Typhon. You will connect the LDD +Vin and -Vin to the 48v supply, PWM DIM will go to the Typhon output channels, and the Typhon output ground will connect to the negative output on the 48v power supply. +Vout and -Vout from the LDDs will go to the LEDs. Link to comment
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