Lumia 5.2 - pics and PAR readings

[jedimasterben]

Hey guys. Milad was awesome enough to send me a pair of Lumia 5.2, a Coralux 5up PCB, and a 12" Makers heatsink so we can get some 'official' PAR numbers.



First, a bit on the setup and the Coralux board.

The Coralux board is just sexy. Love the white silkscreen on the top. I wish I wasn't cheap and just got the standard green for my personal PCB Anyway, the connections are pretty simple. The top has the PWM inputs (1-5), three ground (- on the 48v power supply) and two power input (+ on the 48v power supply). On the bottom are the outputs, with (-) on the left and (=) on the right of each terminal block. The LDD also will slip right into the slots, and they can only go one way (look for the PWM pin to figure it out). Just don't be like me and take them out, put them in, take them out, put them in, etc, until the pins on the LDD get so weak that they just fall off. D'oh!

Here is the board fully populated and wired up.



NOTE: I am using five LDD-1000H, which give 1A - this is NOT the proper way to do this, but since I destroyed one of my LDD-700H, I don't have much choice, and decided I have plenty of LDD-1000H in case I break another pin or two. I have channels one, four, and five dimmed via a Typhon controller to 178/255, which gives right at 700mA, which is the limit of those channels. Channels two and three are running the full 1A since they use only XT-E, which can handle up to 1.5A.



Now on to the 5.2 itself.



It has 25x LEDs separated into five channels.
Channel 1: 3x 430nm hyper violet, 2x 455nm royal blue XT-E
Channel 2: 5x 455nm royal blue XT-E
Channel 3: 3x warm white XT-E, 2x neutral white XT-E
Channel 4: 3x blue XP-E2, 2x turquoise (aka cyan)
Channel 5: 3x 430nm hyper violet, 2x 455nm royal blue XT-E

This is the approximate spectral output of the chip:


The build quality is just awesome. The big thing that didn't like hated about the 5.1 has been changed - those damn flimsy leads that I literally broke off within five minutes are GONE! They've been replaced by Molex Microfit 3.0 5-pin connectors that lock into place - they will not come off unless you REALLY want them to! There are two different wire styles - dual flying leads or an interconnect. The flying leads are, well, flying leads, that will connect right into the LDD boards (or whatever driver you use). The interconnect is only used if you are running two Lumia 5.2 in series.

The MCPCB the LEDs and connectors are mounted to is solid copper and sexy - again with that white silkscreen! The LEDs are in neat rows in the center, and there are small indentations where the screws slide into to better hold down the PCB. It gives tons of surface area to help keep the LEDs nice and cool, which will make them emit more light and extend their life.


Alrighty, enough about that, let's get to the juicy stuff. Setup is as follows:

Channels one, four, and five are run at 700mA, channels two and three are run at 1A. Both Lumia are mounted to a 12" MakersLED heatsink and run on Meanwell LDD-1000H, controlled by a Typhon for the channels that need to be reduced to 700mA. Power supply is the LEDgroupbuy 250w supply, used only because I haven't yet opened my Meanwell HLG-185H. The two Lumia are run approximately 4" apart on the heatsink.

PAR measurements were taken using an Apogee SQ-110 (calibrated for 'sun') attached to a digital multimeter. The Apogee readings are +/- 5%, as is the multimeter, and I am not adjusting for their error. The PAR numbers were taken with all channels at 100%, with 15% being added to the reading to adjust for the PAR sensor sensitivity curve posted by Apogee.

The tank used is an empty Deep Blue Professional 24x24x12 30g tank with a corner overflow (hence no readings in that corner). Four sets of readings were taken - one with only one Lumia powered at 24" above the bottom of the tank, one with both Lumia at 24", one with only one Lumia at 32" above the bottom of the tank, and the last with both Lumia at 32". The 24" readings are to simulate up to an 18" tall tank, the 32" reading is to simulate a 24" tall tank.

Photos were taken with a Canon T2i with the stock 18-55mm lens. EXIF data has not been removed from the photos, so you can find the exposure and shutter speeds from them. Photos were adjusted in Lightroom 5.2 to get them as true to life as possible.

The setup.


1/255 on all channels (2.8-3.9mA)


255/255 on all channels (700-1000mA)


(note: when uploaded to Picasa for hosting, the color of this last photo shifted and is more purple than it should be).



PAR readings

24", single Lumia



24", dual Lumia



32", single Lumia



32", dual Lumia



Pretty good numbers for such a small point of light, and actually matching the Lumia 5.1 in some of the measurements (find those here)! Not bad for about half the power consumption.


Overall, I really like the 5.2 - coming from someone that really isn't a fan of Cree. The color from all channels at the same intensity is beautiful. In my quick testing over my coral holding tank, the non-fluorescent red color in some of the corals showed up just the same as it does under the high-CRI Rebels that it is regularly lit by. Coming in at just over $110, nabbing a pair of them (along with a heatsink, drivers, and a controller) just makes sense unless you're running a shallow tank that you don't need a lot of spread over, in which case one will do.

Milad has also provided two 90-120 degree adjustable lenses. I will be attaching them tomorrow (it's around 2AM here, and I'm about to fall asleep!) and letting the silicone cure for a bit before striking them up and taking more PAR measurements.



Lastly, LEDgroupbuy is giving away these two Lumia, along with the lenses, the 12" Makers heatsink, and the 5up Coralux board! Be sure to follow this topic to find out how!

[Horerczy]

Sweet. Makes me want to strip out my 5.1 and replace it with a 5.2. It's not like I don't have a ton of 1000H drivers floating around.

 

While I have your attention ben how many of these would be needed for a 48"Lx13"D*31"H with 4 54W T5HO?

[jedimasterben]

Sweet. Makes me want to strip out my 5.1 and replace it with a 5.2. It's not like I don't have a ton of 1000H drivers floating around.

 

While I have your attention ben how many of these would be needed for a 48"Lx13"D*31"H with 4 54W T5HO?

You'd probably need four of them run without lenses. You don't really need four T5 tubes (as to get spread on a 13" deep tank only needs a single tube), but that's up to you.

 

That would be sweet in a black ASIS 6x18.

 

He needs to put two fans on that sink though, and I told him so. Sweet, slim, and sexy(for a light). Definitely hotter than a Radion.

 

Thanks for doing all the grunt work again, Ben.

Yeah, the Asis sinks are sexy. I agree that it probably needs more fannage.

 

I'm just glad I get to play with all kinds of new toys

[Horerczy]

You'd probably need four of them run without lenses. You don't really need four T5 tubes (as to get spread on a 13" deep tank only needs a single tube), but that's up to you.

 

True the width isn't all that bad it's how tall the tank is that's the issue. All the owner has on said tank now is two 54W T5HO and two 250W MH lamps.

[jedimasterben]

I would stick to the two T5 tubes that are already on there instead of adding two more. I don't think that the two 5.2 would need to be run near full power, probably sticking to all 700mA drivers (which puts them at ~55w per 5.2) puts the total light wattage at around 350w with the two T5 and ballast/power supply inefficiency. Tank is using around 675w as-is, so it's a nice savings to get more output, and dimming the Lumia in a parabolic pattern throughout the day will save on energy even more.

[Horerczy]

Well he has everything but a ballast for the last two because his light is one of those Oddysea 48" 2 250W MH 4 T5HO combo things and one of the ballasts went boom thanks to genuine Oddysea quality.

 

So Two T5 lamps with four 5.2's in a row would be best then? Hmm ... might push him towards Evil Clusters instead for money savings.

[fredfish01]

I've been lurking here for a while reading all the LED posts, but this one really has my interest.

 

Hmm, two lumia to play with you say? Can we help you play?

 

How much of a par reduction are we going to see if the lights go through 18 to 20" of water?

 

It would be really interesting to see how the par measurments vary if you have the two lumias at 24" apart and measure from directly below the lights and at regular intervals between. It doesn't look like you have a second heatsink though.

 

The tank you put these over, does it normally have the combination evil cluster T5 unit you built over it? Would love to see some comparison pictures.

[jedimasterben]

Well he has everything but a ballast for the last two because his light is one of those Oddysea 48" 2 250W MH 4 T5HO combo things and one of the ballasts went boom thanks to genuine Oddysea quality.

That's some high-quality goods right there

 

That's one reason that I went with an HEP ballast for my T5s. If they're good enough for ATI, they're good enough for me!

So Two T5 lamps with four 5.2's in a row would be best then? Hmm ... might push him towards Evil Clusters instead for money savings.

Yep, that's the problem with these chips, getting more than point-source light out of them isn't really possible

 

I've been lurking here for a while reading all the LED posts, but this one really has my interest.

 

Hmm, two lumia to play with you say? Can we help you play?

 

How much of a par reduction are we going to see if the lights go through 18 to 20" of water?

 

It would be really interesting to see how the par measurments vary if you have the two lumias at 24" apart and measure from directly below the lights and at regular intervals between. It doesn't look like you have a second heatsink though.

 

The tank you put these over, does it normally have the combination evil cluster T5 unit you built over it? Would love to see some comparison pictures.

There won't be a PAR loss through water unless your water is very turbid or discolored (both of which shouldn't happen in a reef tank). The water will diffuse the light, and surface agitation will cause the PAR to rapidly change, by as much as +/-25%, so measuring in water will never give the same result twice unless you have a sensor logger that will record an average reading.

 

I've got another pair of Makers heatsinks here, but the time is not really there lol. Besides, at 24" apart, the PAR would be basically what you see from the single chip, with it a fuzz higher where they meet.

 

The tank I have them over is my test tank that is always empty, I basically just use it to get readings lol. I was going to set it up, but after getting it into the room its in along with my 48x24 80g tank stand, I think that one is gonna have to go away, the room is too small to have them both. I'll still do tests and such, but I'll have to cut some plywood or something in a 24x24 area to get measurements.

 

Actually, now that I think about it, it might be better than way since I can write on the wood and mark measurements where I can get readings and such. Genius!

[fredfish01]

...

I've got another pair of Makers heatsinks here, but the time is not really there lol. Besides, at 24" apart, the PAR would be basically what you see from the single chip, with it a fuzz higher where they meet.

...

Hmm, hence the recommendation for coverage of a 24" by 24" area, but...

 

Yep, that's the problem with these chips, getting more than point-source light out of them isn't really possible

... so to get better light spread I need a more difuse supplemental source. What I am curious to know is how close together two of these chips need to be for one to act as a fill light for the other. 24" centers looks to be too far apart. What happens at 18" centers? I wish I could split these chips in half and use twice as many to improve spread and reduce shading.

[Psychosis]

 

K, how the hell did you make that look so clean?

[Horerczy]

With 4 36" T5 lamps how many lumia 5.2 would you use on a 40B?

[Yaman]

Any updates about you testing, is it up and make magic over your tank?

[jedimasterben]

K, how the hell did you make that look so clean?

Magic.

 

With 4 36" T5 lamps how many lumia 5.2 would you use on a 40B?

I wouldn't use four unless you only run them for a small portion of the day. You'd still need two of them for spread.

 

Any updates about you testing, is it up and make magic over your tank?

No, I pretty much covered everything already. They are not mine, so they aren't used in any of my fixtures.

 

I also forgot to update - enter to win both the Lumia, the Makers heatsink, the 5up board, 5x LDD, and a Storm controller! https://www.facebook.com/LEDGroupBuy?sk=app_228910107186452

[Horerczy]

Enter what to win Ben? All i see is a bunch of Facebook posts.

[fredfish01]

Sigh, facebook. I don't facebook...

[jedimasterben]

Enter what to win Ben? All i see is a bunch of Facebook posts.

The link should take you right to it, does it not?

 

Sigh, facebook. I don't facebook...

Well, then you won't enter, then?

[Horerczy]

It might be because I'm on my phone but all I'm getting is the LEDGroupBuy Facebook page in general. I'll check on my desktop or lappy later tonight.

[jedimasterben]

Ah ok, I'm not sure how the link would work with mobile apps.

[Horerczy]

Short answer. It doesn't.

[jedimasterben]

 

[Horerczy]

The link works on my desktop so awesome. Would help my dad get a leg up on lighting his 90 if he won it so I'll share the links with him.

[CrazyEyes]

Oh man, he knows his $hit about LEDs and he post funny gifs. Is there any talk about a reflector for the 5.2?

[jedimasterben]

The same lens for the 5.1 works with the 5.2.

 

 

Oh, by the way, it will also come with two lenses lol, forgot I even had them here

[CrazyEyes]

For some reason I've never looked at the lens for the 5.1, I never knew the beam angle was adjustable, that's pretty badass.

[bdevillier19]

more LED goodies! looks like i have to start a build thread for my light now.