First Reef Aquarium 10 gallon

[Chew_Magna]

You can just change out the optics, it's brain dead easy and cheap. The hard part is finding someone who sells them. LEDTRIC would but I don't think they're open anymore.

 

 

http://coralcompulsion.com/led/led-accessories

 

You need 12 so $6 before shipping.

[anizato]

You can just change out the optics, it's brain dead easy and cheap. The hard part is finding someone who sells them. LEDTRIC would but I don't think they're open anymore.

 

 

http://coralcompulsion.com/led/led-accessories

 

You need 12 so $6 before shipping.

 

dude you are a genius!

 

that is a wonderful idea man

 

i just got it in the mail, like 15 minutes ago, and have spent them unscrewing and trying to figure out how to open the LED. its fairly easy, just 3 annoying screws (that go on forever LOL) and the top is a pain in the ass... since it is held on by pressure against these sharp metal teeth, but once I got passed that it looks very feasible.

 

Now all I need is my live rock and I am set to go!!

[gulfsurfer101]

Yeah, it's uber easy swapping out your optics, besides you want to stay away from ecoxotic products. There is just way too many other better products out there that will last you a lot longer than those stunner and pro strips.

[Chew_Magna]

dude you are a genius!

 

that is a wonderful idea man

 

i just got it in the mail, like 15 minutes ago, and have spent them unscrewing and trying to figure out how to open the LED. its fairly easy, just 3 annoying screws (that go on forever LOL) and the top is a pain in the ass... since it is held on by pressure against these sharp metal teeth, but once I got passed that it looks very feasible.

 

Now all I need is my live rock and I am set to go!!

Sounds like you opened the wrong end of the light. You only have to take the plate off that holds the optics in place which is on the flat side of the bulb.

[noobofreefs]

 

Yeah, I knew it would be pushing it with having lots of fish. I am not interested in overstocking at all. The Goby/Shrimp pair is definitely something I have been eyeing to keep.

 

I just want to second this...I had a Randall's Goby and Randall's Pistol Shrimp in my old tank and I LOVED the duo. Very interesting symbiotic relationship!

 

EDIT: Found a picture of my guys

[anizato]

Sounds like you opened the wrong end of the light. You only have to take the plate off that holds the optics in place which is on the flat side of the bulb.

 

HAHA LOL! Now I know how to do it the right way!

 

I just want to second this...I had a Randall's Goby and Randall's Pistol Shrimp in my old tank and I LOVED the duo. Very interesting symbiotic relationship!

 

Great picture man! thanks for sharing.

 

Yeah, it's uber easy swapping out your optics, besides you want to stay away from ecoxotic products. There is just way too many other better products out there that will last you a lot longer than those stunner and pro strips.

 

Hey bro would you mind sharing some that you know are badass? What do you think of the BuildMyLED guys, are they legit? We already established Current-USA's products suck as well...

 

Or better yet, besides PAR30/38 and Kelvin, what should I look for? I definitely want a LED, as I want to reduce my consumption as much as I can.

 

Chew_Magna already taught us actinic is only for show ...so what parameters/specs do you all look for when shopping for lighting?

[Chew_Magna]

Going back to Coral Compulsion, I always wanted to try one of these lights. http://coralcompulsion.com/led/PAR-BULBS/led-40w-18k-Tru

[gulfsurfer101]

I was running a reefbreeders value fixture over my 20L. It might be over kill on a ten gallon but it's dimmable and will leave you room to expand in the future. I like this light so much that I am looking to get another one to run side by side my other one over my 75g I'm setting up now.

[anizato]

Hey everyone!

 

I have an UPDATE!

 

I started my water in a bucket yesterday morning, heater at 78F and powerhead.

 

I took the first test after 12 hours and these are the results:

 

Graviti: 1.022

Calcium: 400ish

Phosphate: 0

kH: 7

Nitrate: 0

 

Then, today I added the LiveSand to the Display. Afterwards I added the saltwater. The water was pretty cloudy after that, but I had my powerhead, inner-filter & heater going while I went to pick up my LiveRock at my LFS. Took me about an hour or so and the water remains pretty cloudy.

Nevertheless, I rinsed my LiveRock before inserting it and this is what the first pics look like.

 

 

What do you think? Any suggestions? Could I have done it better?

 

Tadaaaa

[Chew_Magna]

It'll clear up on it's own in a few days. 1.022 is pretty low, get it up to .025 or .026.

[anizato]

I just added 1oz of Reef Crystals directly to the tank, I will take a read tomorrow.

 

On another note, I assume it might be normal but what do I know, right? I tested for the second time and got:

 

CALCIU 420

PHOSPHATE 0

kH 9 = 161.1

NITRATE is between 0 and 5 (I think)

AMMONIA ... this is where the n00b assumption comes in, I got questionable results. I ran the test twice, but can't tell ...can you? please.

 

I cannot tell if NITRATE is 0.25 or 0.5

 

What do you all think?

 

Thanks again for everything

[Chew_Magna]

That's one of the problems with API, it can be pretty hard to read sometimes. It'll also throw false ammonia readings like crazy. I haven't used my ammonia test since I bought the kit about a year and a half ago. Your nitrates look zeroed out which is normal in a brand new tank, you have to have the process going to create that. Have you put anything in the tank yet to provide ammonia? Put some flake or frozen food in there, not much, but just a little pinch. That'll break down and give you the boost you need. You can do that every few days or so. I use Biozyme in all my tanks when I set them up. I couldn't tell you if it actually does anything or not because I've always used it, but I certainly haven't had any problems with it.

[gulfsurfer101]

Also for future reference never add salt straight to your tank. The best thing to do it's remove some tank water and raise the salinity in there and add back to your tank. Go slow and repeat as necessary. Looks like things have cleared up a bit, you'll have a reef tank soon enough.

[Chew_Magna]

Also for future reference never add salt straight to your tank. The best thing to do it's remove some tank water and raise the salinity in there and add back to your tank. Go slow and repeat as necessary. Looks like things have cleared up a bit, you'll have a reef tank soon enough.

This. Since your tank is empty you dodged a bullet, but it's dangerous to do with livestock in the tank (salt burns and such). Still, even adding salt to an empty tank can cause problems, there's potential risk of salt gathering somewhere and not dissolving right away, only to do it later and mess up your salinity after you corrected again to "fix" it.

[anizato]

Got it! I won't do that again

 

Reef Crystals gives a 1.021 gravity read with 1.4lb of Reef Salt product per 5 gallons. I measured it precisely and it read exactly that: 1.021, so something is off, how did they "guess" how much Live Sand and Live Rock I would be adding.
As you can see, I have both Live Rock/Sand, so how would you figure to increase to 1.025/1.026?

The math is quite crazy,

 

I am trying to achieve 1.025-1.026, which requires 1.4lb per 5 gallons (figure out THAT "phantom formula" ...anybody?), I have 7.5 lb of Live Rock, How much does that reduce to the volume of water required to fill a standard 10 gallon tank; minus 1.5" Live Sand bed? 7 or 8 gallons?

I have read a good rule of thumb is 1/2 cup per gallon of water, does anybody back that up?

Should I achieve 1.026 by mixing a 1 gallon jug and add that daily to my 1.021 tank?

 

However here is the math: ( for anybody interested!)

160z = 1lbH20

8lb = 1gal

1lb=1/8gal (0.125)

 

Here are some pics of some screwing around between two landscapings. Which one do you like best?

Any suggestions?

 

I should wait another week until I get water right until I add any INVERTS right? What do you think? I was going to order them from LiveAquaria.com, hear from them?

[Chew_Magna]

Don't even bother with the math. Just take out a gallon at a time, mix some salt in it, put it in the tank. Measure, if it needs to be adjusted, take out another gallon and repeat. If you happen to go too high mix some fresh.

 

I use IO Reef Crystals and I don't even test the salinity when I mix anymore. I know it's a half cup of salt per gallon of water and that always gets me right where I need to be.

 

Don't add any inverts until the tank is fully cycled. Even a little ammonia or nitrites will kill them.

[Kevin88]

I would not suggest two clowns in a 10 gallon. I have two in mine and they never seem very happy. I'm actually planning on upgrading to a 20L, partially for that reason.

[noobofreefs]

Yeah, you won't see nitrates for a bit. Throw something in the tank to raise the ammonia level (frozen shrimp, fish food, etc...) and just let it go. I wouldn't even test it for a few days, just let it cycle. Patience is the key!

[anizato]

Yeah, you won't see nitrates for a bit. Throw something in the tank to raise the ammonia level (frozen shrimp, fish food, etc...) and just let it go. I wouldn't even test it for a few days, just let it cycle. Patience is the key!

 

Does Coralline Algae evolve into actual Corals? Say, if I were never to buy a Coral, would they just sprout from my LR overtime?

 

I have noticed some petite brown hairs attached to the surface of all the Live Rock.

 

Also, there are SOME super tiny specs of red-colored-tiny-looking-trees ..is this coralline algae?

 

I am leaving the lights on for about 2-3 hours a day.

 

I raised the salinity to 1.025. I documented 6 Tablespoons of Reef Crystals bumped me from 1.023 to 1.025 so I can use that info in the future.

 

I plan on waiting 2 more weeks until I add anything, is it possible to add PODS/Chaeto before anything else so they can begin populating or is it better to start with a CUC?

 

I have a Marineland .5gal Hang On Breeder-Box shipping now, it is where I want to grow my PODS and Chaeto with some Live Rubble I have on the front of the DT.

What do you think of this: I was imagining hanging the Aquaclear 30 to that Hang On instead of the actual DT and adding some Ulva Lettuce in the AC30. But I don't know yet, it might be just dreaming but I will know more when I have the thing in my hands (otherwise I'll just install it to the back of the DT.

[ragtimewilly]

Coralline algae is just desirable algae, most new tanks go through stages of algal blooms, it's likely diatoms or hair algae, both are normal. Live rock will probably provide you with some sort of pod population, unless you want a specific species I wouldn't spend money on any, patience is key for building a good pod population. People have definitely found coral hitchhikers on their live rock so keep an eye out. Good luck man seems like you off to a good start.

[Chew_Magna]

Does Coralline Algae evolve into actual Corals? Say, if I were never to buy a Coral, would they just sprout from my LR overtime? No, coralline is just a calcareous algae, nothing more. Some people like it, I don't, I prefer the look of the rocks bare to them being covered in Play-Doh. It can come in many colors. Coral can and will self propagate, so once you actually get some they will reproduce and spread provided you have a nice stable, healthy tank. You can't have Maiden-Mary-miraculous-conception-life-from-nothing. The term "live rock" is actually a misnomer. It's sold as "live rock" with the idea that it has bacteria living in it (which is almost always base rock that's been wet a little while, it's basically never cycled at stores, if it were you wouldn't have to cycle it yourself), but the actual term live rock means covered and filled with life, including corals, sessile and mobile inverts, macros and sometimes fish (yep, people get fish with their real live rock sometimes).

 

I have noticed some petite brown hairs attached to the surface of all the Live Rock. Most likely the onset of unwanted algae.

 

Also, there are SOME super tiny specs of red-colored-tiny-looking-trees ..is this coralline algae? No idea without a pic. Could be feather dusters.

 

I am leaving the lights on for about 2-3 hours a day. I'm an advocate of leaving the lights off during a cycle. Having them on only invites algae to get an early start in the tank. There's no reason at all to have lights on during a cycle, there's nothing in the tank that needs it. You have no CuC at that time so if an algae does start growing it'll do just that, grow.

 

I raised the salinity to 1.025. I documented 6 Tablespoons of Reef Crystals bumped me from 1.023 to 1.025 so I can use that info in the future.

 

I plan on waiting 2 more weeks until I add anything, is it possible to add PODS/Chaeto before anything else so they can begin populating or is it better to start with a CUC? Wait until the tank is fully cycled. It could take a week, it could take two, it could take two months. You go putting anything in there before it's complete and you're throwing money down the toilet. Get your CuC first, then a fish, and later think about the macros. A wad of chaeto might not last long if there's nothing else in the tank providing nutrients for it.

 

I have a Marineland .5gal Hang On Breeder-Box shipping now, it is where I want to grow my PODS and Chaeto with some Live Rubble I have on the front of the DT.

What do you think of this: I was imagining hanging the Aquaclear 30 to that Hang On instead of the actual DT and adding some Ulva Lettuce in the AC30. But I don't know yet, it might be just dreaming but I will know more when I have the thing in my hands (otherwise I'll just install it to the back of the DT. Putting a hang on on a hang on breeder might end up being trouble. Most of them are made from cheap plastic and wouldn't support that weight long term. Once you do get it you can either fit a low flow pump on the intake or use the air lift technique that a lot of them recommend. You'll want low flow through the breeder. You'd be best running any macro, your chaeto or ulva, in the breeder and running floss and carbon in the AC30.

I didn't go back and read, but are you testing your tank?

[anizato]

"...Maiden-Mary-miraculous-conception-life-from-nothing..." HAHAHAHA that was hilarious bro!

 

First of all, thank you for taking the time to answer that. You are quite savvy with reefs, that is badass!

 

The fact is, the rock I bought was actually Cured for me. According to my LFS, it would take a week for it to cycle into the new water. However he did double bag it dry, and it took about an hour and a half to get it into the water after I rinsed it with SaltWater, so there is no way of telling how much death happened.

He recommended 2 hours of light per day. Although, like you said, I have read many places suggesting no light during the cycle either, but I was a little confused with what I had learned about cycles when my LR was already cured. My light is now OFF!

 

I tried taking pictures of the "red-thingys" growing, but my camera doesn't capture them.

 

I didn't go back and read, but are you testing your tank?

 

Yes I have been testing my water daily.

 

Here are the latest results:

 

Grav: 1.025

Calcium: 460

kH: 196.9

Phosphate: 0.1

Ammonia: 0.5?? or 0.15??

Nitrate: 10?

 

Friggin colors!

 

seems super high!

 

I just got a pH reader, so I will be able to include that once it calibrates.

[Chew_Magna]

It looks like your ammonia is zeroed out, we need a nitrite test as well. You won't need it later but it's good to have during the cycle.

[anizato]

It looks like your ammonia is zeroed out, we need a nitrite test as well. You won't need it later but it's good to have during the cycle.

 

Ok I will buy a Nitrite test as soon as I can

 

By the way my pH reader is done calibrating.

According to it my pH is 7.8 at the moment.

 

I just performed a 10% water change to help a little. Although should I just let my water be so it can "age" or should I keep changing it whenever there is a Nitrate spike?

[Chew_Magna]

Water changes are partially to keep nitrates in check, but you shouldn't do a water change during a cycle (unless you have livestock in the tank, it's called soft cycling). Doing a wc during the cycle just makes it take longer because you're removing the nutrients the bacteria is using to populate the tank.

 

Do some reading on the nitrogen cycle so you have a better understanding on what's going on in your tank right now.