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DIY 265 gallon build opinion


dre7606

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Before I buy all these LEDs I would like to know everyone's opinion on my LED selection.

I plan on using the meanwell LDD-H 1000s and 700s as the drivers.

My tank dimensions are 84l x 24w x 30h.

I also plan on gutting out an old coralife Aqualight Pro 72" fixture and putting everything inside of it.

As well as 2 48V 350W power supplys probably meanwell.

 

Royal Blue XT-E 1500mA 86 @1000mA 3.4 Neutral White XP-G 1500mA 24 @1000mA 3.25 Cool White XP-G 1500mA 12 @1000mA 3.25 Violet Version 2.0 10 @700mA 3.5 Blue XP-E 20 @1000mA 3.5 Cyan Phlippe Rebel 10 @1000mA 3.51

 

 

Thanks everyone for their comments!

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Before I buy all these LEDs I would like to know everyone's opinion on my LED selection.

I plan on using the meanwell LDD-H 1000s and 700s as the drivers.

 

Good, maybe pick up a few 600s as well.

 

 

My tank dimensions are 84l x 24w x 30h.

I also plan on gutting out an old coralife Aqualight Pro 72" fixture and putting everything inside of it.

As well as 2 48V 350W power supplys probably meanwell.

 

I am not familiar with this fixture. Key issues are whether you want to hang or have an enclosed fixture, how well it tolerates saltwater and how well it dissipates heat. I strongly recommend against putting the drivers inside your fixture due to heat issues. I'd go 54V power supplies over 48V if you are going to pay for Meanwell, but it won't make a huge difference.

 

Royal Blue XT-E 1500mA 86 @1000mA 3.4 Neutral White XP-G 1500mA 24 @1000mA 3.25 Cool White XP-G 1500mA 12 @1000mA 3.25 Violet Version 2.0 10 @700mA 3.5 Blue XP-E 20 @1000mA 3.5 Cyan Phlippe Rebel 10 @1000mA 3.51

 

 

Luxeon M's are 12 watts vs XT-Es which are 3, so you need 4 times as many. 4 times as much to solder. 4 times as much can go wrong.

 

I have 4 Vero 29s over my 270 gallon, running at 1amp. Again, fewer lights, less soldering, less to go wrong and replace, and with the Veros, also cheaper, more efficient and better quality light (more balanced, XPGs will be lacking red and blue-green).

 

I like cheap Chinese arrays for the other LEDs. Again, fewer lights, less soldering, and much cheaper. But admit I am in the minority here.

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The fixture will be suspended at least 12" above the tank. When I had it setup the first time around it always took two people to remove the canopy whenever I needed to get to something in the tank or replace the bulbs. So I figure I would kill two birds with one stone. Go with LEDs replace them every 5+ years and no canopy for easy access to the tank.

 

I am going with the CREEs per a suggestion from another reefer and I an kind of set on the 3-5 watt LEDs b\c of the length of my tank. I want to make sure I get good coverage throughout the tank.

 

Do you have more info on the Vero 29s? I have a 24 gallon Nano cube that needs some LEDs and have tried to figure out what I am going to with it. Since it will be my Quarantine tank pretty much the entire year I think I will have some times before I modify that fixture but I have not heard a lot about those LEDs.

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I am going with the CREEs per a suggestion from another reefer and I an kind of set on the 3-5 watt LEDs b\c of the length of my tank. I want to make sure I get good coverage throughout the tank.

 

Do you have more info on the Vero 29s? I have a 24 gallon Nano cube that needs some LEDs and have tried to figure out what I am going to with it. Since it will be my Quarantine tank pretty much the entire year I think I will have some times before I modify that fixture but I have not heard a lot about those LEDs.

 

Here is the Vero info, but it won't help you if you are dead set on 3-5 watt LEDs.

http://www.bridgelux.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/DS33-Bridgelux-Vero-29-Datasheet-2013.07.18.pdf

 

I hate to be harsh, but you are going to fail and replace/redo all the LEDs you buy. It looks like what I did 2 years ago. Luxeon Ms, Bridgelux Veros, and LDD drivers were not around then.

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