Jump to content
Premium Aquatics Aquarium Supplies

Bluefish LED Controller: News Thread


SpencerShepard

Recommended Posts

That's what I thought, but running my lights a few hours back (or is it forward? i don't remember) and I was at sunrise. Maybe it was backward, that makes more sense lol.

 

Well that clears it all up then.

  • Like 4
Link to comment
jedimasterben

LOL

 

Either way, you can either disable sunrise or sunset, leaving the other to set your time offset, or you can play with your time zone settings and see which one gets closest to your preferred photoperiod.

Link to comment
SpencerShepard

Im really having difficulty with my lighting schedule. It seemed to be working ok yesterday but today my lights never came on. (I tested them to make sure they still work)

 

Heres a screenshot from an hour ago.

 

 

attachicon.gifScreenshot_2014-06-05-22-45-43.png

 

 

At the time of that screenshot it was like 4:30pm in Bora Bora but my lights were 100% off. In fact they've been off all day. Its now 11:30pm where I am in Connecticut and 5:30pm Bora Bora time and lights are still off.

 

Im completely confused with what 'simulated time' means and 'my real sunset/sunrise time' means. I apologize for being so thick but I just dont understand it. What exactly does 'simulated time' mean? how does 'my real sunset/rise' time relate to my 'actual' time?

 

 

In the 'beta only' sandbox under "choose the correct time for your device to set the time zone" I have it set to EST time. Is that supposed to be Bora Bora time? In any event I dont see why it would matter if its simulating actual sunrise/set time of a real location but I assume it fits in here somehow. BTW I have sull simulation on everything.

 

I started typing a long explanation but I think it might be easier to explain in point form:

 

-"My real sunrise/sunset time" is what time your lights will turn on/off

-Simulated time is what point you're at in your photoperiod. Since you are using both sunrise/sunset times from Bora Bora, your simulated time will be the same time as the time on your watch. This is more useful when you are shifting the photoperiod by disabling either Sunrise or Sunset simulation.

-The current time in your simulated location has no relevance whatsoever.

-Your timezone should be set to the timezone in your physical location

-The current firmware version Natural Sun simulation formula can produce inaccurate start/end times. Severity of the inaccuracy varies with day length, but morning could start an hour later than intended. Working on improving this and will release an automatic update soon.

 

Hope that helps!

  • Like 1
Link to comment

I found the website... Must have :eek:

 

Order it...join the club! It is really simple to hook up and operate, which I need...I didn't even start myself on fire during the install.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
jedimasterben

Order it...join the club! It is really simple to hook up and operate, which I need...I didn't even start myself on fire during the install.

Oh, just you wait, it's coming. ;)

  • Like 1
Link to comment

I know it is...

 

Did I tell you about the time my soldering iron burned a hole in my couch? How about the second time?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
pismo_reefer

You buncha reef-wh*res know damn well, that I will own a BlueFish. :D

 

C'mon stupid Paypal.... Clear!!! omgomgomg

Link to comment
jedimasterben

I know it is...

 

Did I tell you about the time my soldering iron burned a hole in my couch? How about the second time?

wat

 

 

 

:lol:

Link to comment

Yeah, my tank is in the living room, and when I work on my light I am too lazy to move it from there. The arm of the couch is a good spot to put the light, and the iron fell out of the station and roasted a decent hole in it. I covered that with a throw pillow and my wife didn't notice until I burned a second hole the same way.

 

Oh well, that just accelerated the replacement couch, on which I am no longer allowed to use as a workstation.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

I just ordered 2 uv stunners over at petsolutions to add to my setup. They are on sale at the moment. Now I will have 2 kessil 360's a blue magenta panorama pro and 2 uv stunners on my tank all controllable with the Bluefish controller. I'd recommend checking the ecoxotic prices if you are looking for some.

Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi everyone

 

Just got all parts for my diy led build and when I tried to get it to work tonight i failed totaly and now i need some help to figger out what the problem is. The setup im using is

 

3 * 50 w dreamchip

48 v 12,5 a powersupply

bluefish led controller with the diy breakoutboards

3 * 5 ac rc ldd 700 ma drivers http://ac-rc.net/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23_35&products_id=221

 

The think is i dont realy know how to connect my controller to the drivers because as you se this driver lack ground . So question 1 is kan i use this board.

 

Question 2 does it matter if the controller is on 5 v or 10 v pwn signal (the spec for this drivers are identical the the meanwells)

 

I know that my english isnt the best but i hope that you understand what i mean.

 

//Christoffer

LDD_driver_connection_diagram.jpg

Link to comment
jedimasterben

Hi everyone

 

Just got all parts for my diy led build and when I tried to get it to work tonight i failed totaly and now i need some help to figger out what the problem is. The setup im using is

 

3 * 50 w dreamchip

48 v 12,5 a powersupply

bluefish led controller with the diy breakoutboards

3 * 5 ac rc ldd 700 ma drivers http://ac-rc.net/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23_35&products_id=221

 

The think is i dont realy know how to connect my controller to the drivers because as you se this driver lack ground . So question 1 is kan i use this board.

 

Question 2 does it matter if the controller is on 5 v or 10 v pwn signal (the spec for this drivers are identical the the meanwells)

 

I know that my english isnt the best but i hope that you understand what i mean.

 

//Christoffer

LDD_driver_connection_diagram.jpg

I would seriously consider tossing out all of your drivers and power supply and going with non-fake units, for a start. Do you know what voltage the fake drivers want on their dimming circuit?

Link to comment

Here are the spec for the drivers

 

 

Specification:

 

  • LED driver:
  • Input Voltage: DC 9V-56V
  • Output Voltage: DC 2V-52VDC
  • Output Current: 700mA
  • PWM dimmming & power on: Vin >DC2.5V~6V
  • PWM frequency: 100Hz-1KHz
  • Size: 27mm x 22mm x 19.5mm

 

  • PCB board:
  • 5 individual channels
  • Ultra durable 2oz copper PCB
  • Size: 130mm x 80mm
Link to comment
SpencerShepard

You should configure the controllers jumpers to 5V (specs say 2.5-6V, so 10V would be too high). Ground would be connected to the "-" terminal on the input side.

Link to comment
  • 3 months later...

Hi Spencer shaperd,

 

Just got my Bluefish and a Nanobox Quad from Dave. I have been trying to find out what camera and speakers to use with the controller. I do need some kind of speakers for the storm simulation right? Just not sure. I have not plug it in yet as I have one thing to change on my lights and Dave is getting it done for me right now. Any info you can tell me would be great. I see that you are Canadian I am too Canadian but living in Ohio now. I still have a home in Whistler. Also have been to Victoria many times as my best friend lives in Duncan.

 

Thanks

 

flo

Link to comment
SpencerShepard

Hey Flo,

 

Thunderstorm audio plays from your mobile device that the app is running on. Some users have a wireless bluetooth speaker for this purpose.

 

For the IP camera, I like the Dlink ones as they are very cheap and widely available. Here's some info on getting setup: http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/349125-bluefish-webcam-setup/

 

Hope that helps,

Spencer

Link to comment

hi again trying to blink up but not happening keeps on saying there is an error what do I do now I tried like 20 times plug in plug off Please let me know



error 16913060 i keep getting this

Link to comment

Hey Flo, this might sound really dumb… but are you holding your phone over the little SD card looking thing? Or are you holding it over the big light? I know the first time I messed with it I wasn't using the blink up correctly.

Link to comment
SpencerShepard

hi again trying to blink up but not happening keeps on saying there is an error what do I do now I tried like 20 times plug in plug off Please let me know

 

error 16913060 i keep getting this

 

Please have a look at this page: http://electricimp.com/docs/troubleshooting/blinkup/

 

The most common causes of trouble with blinkup is incorrect wifi password, or not holding the screen close enough to the card to fully block out ambient light. If you continue to have trouble, please let me know what LED code you are seeing immediately after blinkup.

Link to comment

Hi spencer thanks for getting back "Patience is a virtue" it finally blink up. I finally put the unit on the table and rest my phone on top of it and it work. Must be my hands shaking or I am just getting too old to hold my phone still for 10 seconds. Thanks again. I will probably have more questions along the way, so bare with me....thanks again

 

Flo

  • Like 2
Link to comment
  • Recommended Discussions

×
×
  • Create New...