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Green algae problem


Holomovement

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Hi,

I set up a Biocube hqi about 3 weeks ago and now I am having a huge problem with green algae buildup. The algae outbreak started about 4 days ago. I do 5 gallon water changes once a week and I've scraped the glass 3 times today and it's still all over.

What should I do to make the water clear up? I am currently running the stock biocube skimmer (which seems to be about as effective as our congress at the moment). The only filtration I'm using is the biocube filter.

 

Any suggestions on what to do?

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Your tank is new; tanks that are new tend to have high nutrients, like Nitrates and Phosphates. It's a normal thing, unless your rock is laced with ridiculously high amounts of phosphates.

 

You can try GFO (granulated ferric oxide), put it in a fine mesh bag, and then throw it in one of your back chambers. And get a new skimmer, that stock skimmer is crap (just like congress).

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Thanks so much for the reply! I used dry rock and carib non live sand. I will have to try that out when the LFS opens tomorrow.

 

No prob. Make you do some research on skimmers before you buy one, I hate to see your LFS ripping you off.

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I am using water from the LFS. I think I'm going to get the aquaticlife 115 skimmer. I read it fits in the first chamber in the biocube.

 

Ok, back up the bus a minute. :D

 

The tank is new and going through the uglies, don't sweat it yet. If you want to do this right, long term, you will need to make your own RO/DI water. The LFS water, pre-made, contains WHO KNOWS WHAT. Look around, we've heard all kinds of horror stories from the LFS using tap water to actually selling old water from their tanks. Don't trust them. Don't be rude, just understand that they might not be the most knowledgeable source of info.

 

Next, don't over treat your tank when it's new. Adding GFO and skimming heavily will certainly strip the water of all the nutrients but it will also lead to a lifeless tank.

 

If you started out with all dry products I'm trying to understand where you are getting the nutrients from and how you are cycling the tank. Do you have any fish, or a cleanup crew?

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Ok, back up the bus a minute. :D

 

The tank is new and going through the uglies, don't sweat it yet. If you want to do this right, long term, you will need to make your own RO/DI water. The LFS water, pre-made, contains WHO KNOWS WHAT. Look around, we've heard all kinds of horror stories from the LFS using tap water to actually selling old water from their tanks. Don't trust them. Don't be rude, just understand that they might not be the most knowledgeable source of info.

 

Next, don't over treat your tank when it's new. Adding GFO and skimming heavily will certainly strip the water of all the nutrients but it will also lead to a lifeless tank.

 

If you started out with all dry products I'm trying to understand where you are getting the nutrients from and how you are cycling the tank. Do you have any fish, or a cleanup crew?

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I have a blue damselfish and a lawnmower blenny to take care of some hair algae. I also have a couple red leg hermit crabs and a CUC from reef cleaners.org.

 

As for the LFS, I have gone there for years for my freshwater tank. Though their prices are a little steep on some things, the guys seem knowledgeable. I test the RO water after bringing it home to make sure the levels are correct.

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MyLiquidBlue29BC

I have a blue damselfish and a lawnmower blenny to take care of some hair algae. I also have a couple red leg hermit crabs and a CUC from reef cleaners.org.

 

As for the LFS, I have gone there for years for my freshwater tank. Though their prices are a little steep on some things, the guys seem knowledgeable. I test the RO water after bringing it home to make sure the levels are correct.

Not all LFS are shady and it is good that you test the RO water. What are you testing for and what results are you getting? Are you testing for TDS?

 

How did you end up with th Lawnmower Blenny?

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I have a blue damselfish and a lawnmower blenny to take care of some hair algae. I also have a couple red leg hermit crabs and a CUC from reef cleaners.org.

As for the LFS, I have gone there for years for my freshwater tank. Though their prices are a little steep on some things, the guys seem knowledgeable. I test the RO water after bringing it home to make sure the levels are correct.

ok here we go :). You have GHA because you are 3 weeks into a cycle with dry rock and dry sand. Those both have high silicates which will lead to algae. This is very normal! But you are cycling a tank and now have 2 fish which are causing more algae along with you feeding them. What's done is done step up the waterchanges to soft cycle the tank. You are burning the gills on the fish from ammonia. What are your parameters? You buy your RO water from the LFS you say? Well I am sure it has high TDS which is leading to more algae because it is RO and not RODI. You need to SLOW down you are going to get burned out from fighting algae and other things. Patience is key in this hobby.
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Parameters as of yesterday

 

Ammonia - undetectable

Calcium - 410 ppm

Ph - 8.1

Mg - 1300 ppm

Salinity - 1.025

Temp - 76

 

Nothing else will be added to the tank until all the algae is under control. Scouts honor.

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Parameters as of yesterday

Ammonia - undetectable

Calcium - 410 ppm

Ph - 8.1

Mg - 1300 ppm

Salinity - 1.025

Temp - 76

Nothing else will be added to the tank until all the algae is under control. Scouts honor.

Are you using RO water or RODI? Your phosphates are probably high but would read 0 because of the algae growth. Any pictures of this tank? In a nut shell you are going to have algae with the tank being so young. You will start to see diatoms and cyano this is normal. Yours will hang on longer than normal because you are feeding fish and fueling the algae. In a normal cycle you are not feeding a tank so the algae runs out of fuel then the CUC takes over.
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So many people get badly bruised at this point and end up quitting the reef hobby.

 

Make sure you have Seachem Prime or equivalent on hand to neutralize (but not remove) the ammonia. You can still cycle but it will be harmless to the fish.

 

If you are using API test kits ammonia will always read .25 or the fish will be dead by the time you get a reading.

 

Please understand that your LFS may be very friendly and somewhat knowledgeable, but 99 time out of 100 you will make the better decision once you are well informed. Also understand that unlike freshwater the nitrogen cycle is only one part of a healthy reef tank. As the tank ages it will better handle a higher nutrient load, and higher nutrients (but low phosphates and nitrates) are the key to healthy corals. This is why startup of the first reef tank needs to go slow.

 

So, you will want to make sure your source water is 0 TDS measured with a temperature correcting TDS meter like this one: http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-3-Handheld-Carrying/dp/B000VTQM70

 

You will want to buy your own RO/DI filter eventually. Spectrapure makes the best IMO and you can get refurbished units for a great price: http://spectrapure.com/FACTORY-REFURBISHED/Refurbished-90-GPD-RODI-System

 

In a pinch is it perfectly fine to use distilled water to make your own saltwater.

 

Good luck. :)

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