Bubba30 Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 Top left in the rocks... Does this yuma look like it is splitting? His twin there is doing fine but this guy has been pissed. It looks like it's pulling itself into two right at the mouth. Quote Link to comment
Bubba30 Posted February 14, 2017 Author Share Posted February 14, 2017 Still looks a little pissed off. Also only 3 of the 7 Rasta polyps are opening. Not even fully open. Quote Link to comment
Sailfish Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 Water parameters? 1 Quote Link to comment
Bubba30 Posted February 14, 2017 Author Share Posted February 14, 2017 NH4-0 Nitrites-0 Nitrates-15ppm Salinity 1.025 Temp 78.8 That is all I have tests for. Running Phosguard and Matrix carbon; algae is still growing on rocks. Coralline algae is growing as well. Quote Link to comment
Sailfish Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 Ammonia and nitrites are good.Nitrates are high, but shouldn't cause such a sudden change.Salinity and temp. seems fine too, unless these values are actually rapidly elevated levels from the system's normal.How about your lights and flow? Both the corals in question are sensitive to too much light (especially LEDs) and too much water flow.Intensity of light?Photoperiod?Height suspended above the sandbed, as well as from the surface?What pumps, and how much are each outputting?A new FTS, where we can see how the powerheads and returns are positioned, would also be of great help to further assist you Quote Link to comment
Bubba30 Posted February 14, 2017 Author Share Posted February 14, 2017 Ammonia and nitrites are good. Nitrates are high, but shouldn't cause such a sudden change. Salinity and temp. seems fine too, unless these values are actually rapidly elevated levels from the system's normal. How about your lights and flow? Both the corals in question are sensitive to too much light (especially LEDs) and too much water flow. Intensity of light? Photoperiod? Height suspended above the sandbed, as well as from the surface? What pumps, and how much are each outputting? A new FTS, where we can see how the powerheads and returns are positioned, would also be of great help to further assist you Levels are normal as the coral are new in a newer tank(6 months cycled) So I have a Sicce 1.5 on the return; an MP10QD on the right center of tank set on reefcrest 60% most of the day and 20% overnight. I have a Radion Gen 2 Pro 9" above water 20" above the sand currently on deep water template running 10 hour photo period at 10% intensity. I am seeing a lot of algae growth the past few days and notice it on the zoa frag as pictured. Sorry it is so blue it is ramping down and the phone can't handle it. Thanks for your help! 1 Quote Link to comment
Sailfish Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 That is about the flow that I'm running on my 17G reef (without the night mode) making it 36-41X turnover, and the softies handle it In your slightly bigger reef it should be even less of a problem.You could turn your Vortech MP10 down to 40%, and see if that may help the corals settle down.Referring to these PAR-measurements of the Radion Pros, https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8392/8548956995_5184e52204_c.jpg, 10% intensity should be a fine place to start the light acclimation No harm in keeping the aquarium lights off for 2-3 days, just to see if the soft corals will extend their polyps to the ambient room lighting or not.The algae bloom may indicate some die-off being introduced to your system with the newly introduced corals.Just remember this: When SHTF (shit hits the fan) - 100% Water ChangeWhen live stock seems "off" - 100% Water ChangeWhen nervous - 100% Water Change When you are bored - 100% Water Change When you f***ing feel like it - 100% Water ChangeYou catch my drift Good idea is to throw a bag of activated carbon in your sump for 2-3 days, after the 100% WC, to remove any toxins or pollutants in the tank water Good luck, and I'm looking forward to getting some updates! Don't mention it Help is what this great forum is for, right? 1 Quote Link to comment
Bubba30 Posted February 14, 2017 Author Share Posted February 14, 2017 I have peristaltic pumps doing regular 1 gallon/day water changes. Maybe I will do a huge water change to supplement this. How about a peroxide dip or something to kill the algae off the frags? I've dipped zoas in the past but never $10 pp zoas... Quote Link to comment
Sailfish Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 I have peristaltic pumps doing regular 1 gallon/day water changes. Maybe I will do a huge water change to supplement this. How about a peroxide dip or something to kill the algae off the frags? I've dipped zoas in the past but never $10 pp zoas... It is initially logic thinking that 7 X 1G water changes (1G/day) should produce the same nutrient export from our tanks, as 1 X 7G water changes (7G/week). As well as keeping the water chemistry more stable, and we all know that parameter stability => greater coral growth and -health Logically it makes perfect sense, unfortunately nature have a way of throwing the odd curveball in the otherwise so logical systems. It is important to step away from what we think is going on, and actually test it in an objective manner. This is pretty much the definition of "the scientific method". Chemistry shows us that fewer, but larger, water changes export much more unwanted nutrients over time, then more frequent, smaller water changes. This is because we are dealing with dilution. What helped me understand this concept was an example: When you perform 7 water changes of 1G/time, you are effectively causing a logarithmic decrease (curve) of the unwanted nutrients (most commonly nitrates and phosphates), in comparison with the linear deacrease (straight line) from a single 7G water change. Of course, in a model with a longer time axis those single weekly 7G water changes will also start to portray a logarithmic decrease in the unwanted nutrients. A logarithmic function decreases rapidly at first, while flattening out the longer time that pass by. By only performing partial water changes, the water parameters in your tank will never reach a point where they exactly match those of your freshly mixed saltwater. Radioisotopes (from e.g. nuclear bombs, or -power plants) have constant half-lives, because of their logarithmic decay. Maybe all my blabber will confuse more people then enlighten them, so here is an illustration that shows what I tried to explain in words, graphically The source of this graph is this great article from Advanced Aquarist: "Water Changes in Reef Aquaria", by Randy Holmes-Farley (http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-10/rhf/#5) Loooong story short, the only way to completely eliminate an acute threat, caused by water chemistry, is a solid 100% water change! 100% WC = 100%->0% (linear) decrease of whatever excess nutrient or other pollutant you want to remove. The exact same principle proves true for those who wish to replenish consumed minerals with water changes alone (no kalkwasser, two-part, or calcium reactor) Regarding the algae on the zoas, it is kinda difficult to see on the photo you posted. If it is just normal green hair algae, I would just nip of what you can get to with your fingers If it is some slimy cyano-ish stuff, you can just brush the zoas with an old toothbrush. Just make sure to irritate the zoas a bit, so they close up, before you go all spring cleaner on their bases haha 3 Quote Link to comment
Bubba30 Posted February 15, 2017 Author Share Posted February 15, 2017 Can't argue with that logic. Maybe I'll start doing a weekly change on top of the daily changes. Enlightening. 1 Quote Link to comment
Bubba30 Posted February 17, 2017 Author Share Posted February 17, 2017 Looks like my nitrates are much lower than they have been. Between 2 and 5 here. I tested this before doing a big water change. Going to keep up 1 gallon daily changes. Why is algae growing like mad all of the sudden? This Phosguard is realitivly new; 2 weeks and enough media to treat 60 gallons. Could it be exhausted already... I guess I need a phosphate test kit. Quote Link to comment
Bubba30 Posted February 19, 2017 Author Share Posted February 19, 2017 I got another torch yesterday; really like this one! It looks like Tuesday I'll be getting my gold torch and green/pink that I had originally ordered. Also picked up some fruit loop zoas. Rasta are opening up 100% now I think they were just adjusting to the lighting. 7 Quote Link to comment
StinkyBunny Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 How much did you pay for that Gold Tipped torch if you don't mind me asking? The reason I'm asking is looks like the one that was on the Indo transshippers WYSIWYG list 2 weeks ago. Quote Link to comment
Bubba30 Posted February 19, 2017 Author Share Posted February 19, 2017 1 hour ago, StinkyBunny said: How much did you pay for that Gold Tipped torch if you don't mind me asking? The reason I'm asking is looks like the one that was on the Indo transshippers WYSIWYG list 2 weeks ago. $100 for a frag; he was asking only $400 for the colony. My frag has about 2 heads with one pinching to split. Seller ships if you want his info PM me. Quote Link to comment
Nola Bear Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 On 2/19/2017 at 8:17 AM, Bubba30 said: I got another torch yesterday; really like this one! It looks like Tuesday I'll be getting my gold torch and green/pink that I had originally ordered. Also picked up some fruit loop zoas. Rasta are opening up 100% now I think they were just adjusting to the lighting. Why can't I see your pics? Quote Link to comment
Bubba30 Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 2 hours ago, Nola Bear said: Why can't I see your pics? Not sure but it is fire. Quote Link to comment
tam Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 12 hours ago, Nola Bear said: Why can't I see your pics? I think there was a server issue yesterday if he's using nano-reef. 1 Quote Link to comment
Nola Bear Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 On 2/19/2017 at 8:17 AM, Bubba30 said: I got another torch yesterday; really like this one! It looks like Tuesday I'll be getting my gold torch and green/pink that I had originally ordered. Also picked up some fruit loop zoas. Rasta are opening up 100% now I think they were just adjusting to the lighting. That thing is disgusting. 2 Quote Link to comment
Bubba30 Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 On 2/21/2017 at 9:58 PM, Nola Bear said: That thing is disgusting. I got this picture message on my phone and drove to pick it up immediately. He blew through them. It is a nice piece. I am am going to get a little Sunny D colony from him next week. I'm done buying zoa frags; the rastas I got are awesome but 7 polyps are just lost for $70. 3 Quote Link to comment
Bubba30 Posted March 3, 2017 Author Share Posted March 3, 2017 So my gold torch is never going to make it. I've been chasing the seller for a month and a series of mishaps leaves me impatient. Today they resolved it and are shipping a pretty rediculious rainbow wall hammer. I tested all my parameters today in anticipation of acclimating it tomorrow. pH 8.2 kH 8.5 NH 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 2 Temp 79.2 Hope it fits into my aqua scape; I wasn't planning on any walling euphyllia in such a small tank. Thoughts? 2 Quote Link to comment
Bubba30 Posted March 4, 2017 Author Share Posted March 4, 2017 My hammer came today in great shape. Stretches across a 4.5" round plate. I can work this onto the rock soon. Are euphyllia happy to be neighbors and touch? My torches have been reaching out stinging stuff so I am trying to make a little garden. Will hammers and torches play nice? 1 Quote Link to comment
Weetabix7 Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 Wow, that is GORGEOUS, I can't wait to see pics of it in your tank!!! Most Euphyllia play nice together, but there are a few exceptions. I think you may just have to experiment a little bit and see how they do. 2 Quote Link to comment
Nola Bear Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 Im pretty sure that torches don't play well, but hammers, frogs and Octos can be clumped together. That being said, id probably still try it for a day or two and see how they react. 2 Quote Link to comment
Bubba30 Posted March 4, 2017 Author Share Posted March 4, 2017 4 hours ago, Weetabix7 said: Wow, that is GORGEOUS, I can't wait to see pics of it in your tank!!! Most Euphyllia play nice together, but there are a few exceptions. I think you may just have to experiment a little bit and see how they do. I'm back at work after dropping it in the tank and it is opening up already. My wife sent me a picture; now I need to leave work early! I will try to snap some pictures however my phone does no justice and I could use a new lense on the SLR. 4 hours ago, Nola Bear said: Im pretty sure that torches don't play well, but hammers, frogs and Octos can be clumped together. That being said, id probably still try it for a day or two and see how they react. Thanks. I'm going to go with the above advice and see what happens when they touch. I'm going to let the hammer acclimate a week at least before making any moves. 2 Quote Link to comment
Weetabix7 Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 That was so sweet of her to send that to you!! I wouldn't worry too much about getting your pics perfect, you'll still probably do better than I do at that, lol. I have always really, really loved Wall Hammers and Wall Frogspawns, that's so cool that you have that to look forward to when you get home!! 2 Quote Link to comment
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