NanoBox RETRO Line : NanoBox Sunpower Hybrid Pricing & Install

[DaveFason]

ATI Sunpower Kits : All kits include labor if you ship to me. All kits now include five channel dimming and wireless control for LEDs. I can provide the Sunpower unit for the same pricing you see online.

ATIRETRO by David Fason, on Flickr

 

24" Sunpower -

 

• Two Array - Single Heatsink
• Four Array - Single Heatsink
• Four Array - Dual Heatsink - Two arrays on each heatsink

Kit Includes -

 

• 2/4 - NanoBox V3 Array
• 1/2 - Heatsink
• 1 - Fan
• 1 - NanoBox Driver Board
• 1 - Bluefish Mini
• 1 - 48v Power Supply
• 1 - Wiring, screw and misc parts

 

Pricing - DOES NOT INCLUDE SUNPOWER

 

• Two Array - Single Heatsink - $365
• Four Array - Single Heatsink - $550
• Four Array - Dual Heatsink - $600

 

36" Sunpower -

 

• Four Array - Single Heatsink
• Four Array - Dual Heatsink
• Six Array - Dual Heatsink - Three arrays on each heatsink

 

Kit Includes -

 

 

• 4/6 - NanoBox V3 Array
• 1/2 - Heatsink
• 1 - Fan
• 1/2 - NanoBox Driver Board
• 1 - Bluefish Mini
• 1 - 48v Power Supply
• 1 - Wiring, screw and misc parts

 

Pricing - DOES NOT INCLUDE SUNPOWER

 

• Four Array - Single Heatsink - $575
• Six Array - Single Heatsink - $750
• Four Array - Dual Heatsink - $600
• Six Array - Dual Heatsink - $800

48" Sunpower -

 

• Six Array - Single Heatsink
• Six Array - Dual Heatsink

 

Kit Includes -

 

• 6 - NanoBox V3 Array
• 1/2 - Heatsink
• 1 - Fan
• 1/2 - NanoBox Driver Board
• 1 - Bluefish Mini
• 1 - 48v Power Supply
• 1 - Wiring, screw and misc parts

 

Pricing - DOES NOT INCLUDE SUNPOWER

• Six Array - Single Heatsink - $800
• Six Array - Dual Heatsink - $900

Anodizing :

 

Install Guide :

Tools needed :

· Drill or screw driver

o Philips Head

o Star/Torx Head – Tx10 & Tx20

· 60mm Hole Saw

· Wire snips or wire cutters

· Sharpie

· Measuring tape

 

Step 1 :

Disassemble the Sunpower. Unscrew the sixteen torx/star head screws on the housing. This will detach the chassis from the housing and side caps. Next take the fan assembly off.

Slide the chassis out by disconnecting the main wiring from the terminals. You will only need the chassis for the rest of the install.

ATIManualChassis by David Fason, on Flickr

 

Step 2 :

Detach the ballast you’re taking out by pushing the white terminal tabs on the ballast. Then take the two Philips head screws out that are holding the ballast down. I prefer to take the ballast off that uses wires labeled 3 & 4 on the terminal. This is normally the center ballast.

 

ATIManualballastwired by David Fason, on Flickr

 

Step 3 :

You will need to arrange the end caps so that they are grouped together. You will need to cut the jumper wires and use the provided terminals to connect them to the changed positioning.

 

ATIManualballastwired by David Fason, on Flickr

 

Stock the bulbs are grouped together like so.

· 1 & 3

· 2 & 4

· 4 & 6

We will be changing it to this.

· 1 & 2

· 3 & 4 ( Empty if using six or eight bulb Sunpower )

· 5 & 6

 

If you ordered a dual heatsink kit you can skip this step. You will only take the ballast out that is connected to the 2 & 4 endcaps. This is the center ballast.

 

Step 4 :

Using a measuring tape mark the center of the unit. You will need to use the 60mm hole saw to drill the hole for the added fan.

 

If you are using the dual heatsink kit you will need to measure the center of the two bulbs you took out. Same size hole saw required.

 

ATIManualmeasurefan by David Fason, on Flickr

ATIManualFanHole by David Fason, on Flickr

 

Step 5 :

Using a sharpie mark the driver board and controller. You will need to use a 5/16” drill bit for these holes. Next using something low to scratch the chassis mark the mounting holes on the heatsink. Use the same drill bit for the holes.

 

ATIManualdriverholes by David Fason, on Flickr

ATIManualBFHoles by David Fason, on Flickr

 

Step 6 :

The controller cable will have seven total wires. Attach them to the driver board like so.

· Red

o SCW OUT +

· Black

o SCW OUT –

· Blue

o PWM 1 – Royal Blue Channel

· White

o PWM 2 – White Channel

· Orange

o PWM 3 – Violet Channel

· Green

o PWM 4 – Blue/Cyan

· Brown

o PWM 5 – Mint

Next connect the wiring from the Sunpower terminal 3 & 4 to the driver board POWER IN + and -.

· Terminal 3 – Power IN + ( Positive )

· Terminal 4 – Power IN – ( Negative/Neutral )

 

NanoBoxFanBoard by David Fason, on Flickr

 

 

Step 7 :

Using the provided screws, stand offs and nuts to mount the controller and driver board to the chassis. Use the last two screws and nuts to mount the heatsink to the chassis. You do NOT need stand offs for the heatsink.

 

ATIManualDriverBFMount by David Fason, on Flickr

ATIManualHeatsinkMount by David Fason, on Flickr

 

Step 8 :

Run the heatsink wiring through an existing hole or drill a small hole next to each array. This will run the wiring to the backside.

 

Connect the LED wiring to the driver board like so.

· Blue – Driver 1 +

· White – Driver 1 –

· Brown – Driver 2 +

· Green – Driver 2 –

· Purple – Driver 3 +

· Orange – Driver 3 –

· Yellow – Driver 4 +

· Grey – Driver 4 –

· Red – Driver 5 +

· Black – Driver 5–

 

This will arrange the LEDs in the following channels.

· Royal Blue

· White

· Violet

· Blue/Cyan

· Lime

 

ATIManualHeatsinkMountUnder by David Fason, on Flickr

ATIManualAllMounted by David Fason, on Flickr

 

Step 9 :

Connect the fan wiring to the terminals for the fans. The wiring on the Sunpower will be Red/Grey ( Positive/Negative ) or Brown/Grey ( Positive/Negative ). Connect the red wire to the positive and the black wire to the negative.

 

ATIManualWired by David Fason, on Flickr

 

Step 10 :

Slide the Sunpower wiring into Sunpower housing wire hole. Connect the Sunpower wiring to the correct terminals. Each wire is numbered and will connect to the same numbered terminal. Wires 5/6 connect the fan like so.

 

Wire 5– Positive

Wire 6 – Negative

 

If the fans do not fire reverse above. I have seen it both ways.

 

Step 11:

Slide the chassis back in to housing and attach the torx/star screws back. Leave the end cap that has the controller on its side open until you connect/finish.

 

Step 12 :

The external black box will open. You will need to loosen the terminals connected to the number 3 , 4 and green wire. Take the AC cord connected to this out and connect the supplied cord like so.

· Red wire – Wire 3

· Black wire – Wire 4

 

Close the box.

 

Step 13 :

Connect to the controller using the Bluefish app. Follow this video link. Once connected attach the Sunpower end cap.

http://www.nanoboxreef.com/videos.html

Pictures :

retropart5-13 by David Fason, on Flickr

atisunpowerquadblack4 by David Fason, on Flickr

ATIRETRO by David Fason, on Flickr

sunpowerfourarray by David Fason, on Flickr

charleshybrid by David Fason, on Flickr

katftsfront by David Fason, on Flickr

Nano Box Hybrid ATI by David Fason, on Flickr

marksunpower by David Fason, on Flickr

 

-Dave

[Reef_Suds]

Beautiful as always!

[DaveFason]

Thanks! I have a couple killer RETROs that I am currently finishing up now.

Beautiful as always!

[DCUEVAS74]

I love my retroooooooooooooooooo

[jbb]

[1.0reef]

Holy motha fuka hhububhhbhbhbubh DROOOLLLLL!

[DaveFason]

Post the new photos of your tank up, on here and on the owners thread.

I love my retroooooooooooooooooo

[DCUEVAS74]

Post the new photos of your tank up, on here and on the owners thread.

 

Will do. Maintenance day is almost upon us after some tests Monday. I'll break out the Canon after and get some shots up! Thanks again D!

[metrokat]

Love my retro.

[DaveFason]

Thanks Kat! I love the tank

Love my retro.

[DaveFason]

 

-Dave

[jedimasterben]

Is that a little sticker? If so, I'd better be getting some so I can stick them everywhere

[DaveFason]

Yes sir!

 

-Dave

[metrokat]

Is that a little sticker? If so, I'd better be getting some so I can stick them everywhere

 

 

Yes sir!

 

-Dave

[1.0reef]

Is there going to be a model for a 28g NC HQI?

[Horerczy]

Better send Kat a lot of those stickers Dave.

[DaveFason]

Is there going to be a model for a 28g NC HQI?

I make one. Shoot me an email.

 

-Dave

 

I will send many today. I better see one on your phone

[netsecpro]

Please send a few with my order.

 

Thanks!

[DaveFason]

A Biocube 14g RETRO I just finished up.

 

-Dave

[evanski]

Fluval Spec II and V?

[DaveFason]

Fluval Spec II and V?

For those? I am sure I can, I would just need the hood/box.

 

-Dave

[Blueman]

A Biocube 14g RETRO I just finished up.

 

-Dave

 

How can I order one of these?

[DaveFason]

Shoot me an email. David@nanoboxreef.com

[jahoban]

Here is my 48" ATI Retro that Dave built for me.

 

Jason

[DaveFason]

This is 4x5 ( Shauns ) new RETRO I am doing. If you have an idea, more than likely I can do it. Always ask away!

 

-Dave