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DaveFason

Nano Box Owners Thread

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curtis72

I wish I would have known about the .5". However the material

Is super simple to cut if you have a dremil or anything like it. Drop me an email if you need help!

Yeah maybe I should've asked since I've been running into many issues lately with the .5" acrylic and equipment. Thats awesome to hear though, I only need about 1/8" more or so off.
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StayGold

I'm a happy camper...

 

20287373199_3d2f6324df_b.jpg

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Sully375

I had the same issue with my Beam gooseneck, quick pass on the table saw fixed it. I also have 1/2" glass on my sump

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Steensj2004

Looking for suggestions on Lighting settings for a 36 x 18 x 12 Deep Blue tank with a Hybrid. Having a hard time, looking for someone else's settings with a similar tank. Mixed reef, mostly LPS and softies. Light is hanging aprox 14" off water surface. Wouldn't mind seeing of your bluefish mini lighting schedule settings too.....

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pgrVII

Just received my duo and I love it but has anyone else ran into the issue with the goose-neck hanging kit, specifically the part that mounts to the tank. It doesn't fit on my 1/2" acrylic, so i have it on a chamber divider in the back of the tank I noticed the wiring is in a plastic housing so it looks like its salt creep safe so not to worried running it there for a few days. Was wondering if anyone dremeled it to be bigger or I can just mount something on the side of my desk to clamp it to.

 

Edit: Didnt see anything on nano box saying the max thickness for glass on the goose-neck mount, unless I am blind and missed. :slap:

I had this issue with my breeders rim,I had to cut part of the rim and dremel the mount it's self.

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jedimasterben

Looking for suggestions on Lighting settings for a 36 x 18 x 12 Deep Blue tank with a Hybrid. Having a hard time, looking for someone else's settings with a similar tank. Mixed reef, mostly LPS and softies. Light is hanging aprox 14" off water surface. Wouldn't mind seeing of your bluefish mini lighting schedule settings too.....

12 hour photoperiod for the LEDs, Natural Sun, peak at 30-40% (use best judgement), raising by no more than 5% every week or every other week. T5 on a timer for four hours in the middle of the photoperiod. Slowly increase the time by a half hour weekly or every other week.

 

12 hours with Natural Sun enabled looks like this.

Screenshot_2015-02-07-19-33-24.png

 

 

Eventually it will look like this:

cloud2.png

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Steensj2004

12 hour photoperiod for the LEDs, Natural Sun, peak at 30-40% (use best judgement), raising by no more than 5% every week or every other week. T5 on a timer for four hours in the middle of the photoperiod. Slowly increase the time by a half hour weekly or every other week.

 

12 hours with Natural Sun enabled looks like this.

Screenshot_2015-02-07-19-33-24.png

 

 

Eventually it will look like this:

cloud2.png

So start with The above suggestion from scratch? Also, increase what time by half an hour weekly? T5 Lighting time?

 

What about pendant shift,ramp speed, etc?

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jedimasterben

So start with The above suggestion from scratch? Alson, increase what time by half an hour weekly? T5 Lighting time?

Yes, the T5 portion, leave the LED portion at 12 hours (or enable Dynamic Sunrise so that your morning start time changes as the seasons do in your simulated location, just make sure to leave Dynamic Sunset disabled).

 

Of course, the time adjustments watch your corals closely for their reaction. If you see them shrivel up, cut the period by half an hour until they acclimate (probably wait a couple of weeks) and then try again if you want to.

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Steensj2004

Yes, the T5 portion, leave the LED portion at 12 hours (or enable Dynamic Sunrise so that your morning start time changes as the seasons do in your simulated location, just make sure to leave Dynamic Sunset disabled).

 

Of course, the time adjustments watch your corals closely for their reaction. If you see them shrivel up, cut the period by half an hour until they acclimate (probably wait a couple of weeks) and then try again if you want to.

Sent you a PM, cause I am a retard when it comes to this stuff....lol

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curtis72

I had this issue with my breeders rim,I had to cut part of the rim and dremel the mount it's self.

Yeah I just dremeled the mount, was easy and only took 5 mins.

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pgrVII

Yeah I just dremeled the mount, was easy and only took 5 mins.

 

I also used metal hardware to mount it instead of the plastic.

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smeagol108

Sent you a PM, cause I am a retard when it comes to this stuff....lol

Whatever info you get back please forward to me!!!

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DaveFason

Looking for suggestions on Lighting settings for a 36 x 18 x 12 Deep Blue tank with a Hybrid. Having a hard time, looking for someone else's settings with a similar tank. Mixed reef, mostly LPS and softies. Light is hanging aprox 14" off water surface. Wouldn't mind seeing of your bluefish mini lighting schedule settings too.....

I would start with this.

  • Drop the height to 6-8" above tank.
  • Run CH1 ( Blue ) for 12 hours. You can max these out ( 90-100% 9AM-9PM? )
  • Run CH2 ( White LED ) 30-40% ( 11AM - 7PM )
  • Turn T5s on around 11:30 AM - 3-4PM

-Dave

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Sully375

I run the following schedule (just blues) plus T5 for 5 hours in the middle of the day. I was at 6 but was getting some bleaching.

post-85057-0-32584600-1439382548_thumb.png

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Sully375

12 hour photoperiod for the LEDs, Natural Sun, peak at 30-40% (use best judgement), raising by no more than 5% every week or every other week. T5 on a timer for four hours in the middle of the photoperiod. Slowly increase the time by a half hour weekly or every other week.

 

12 hours with Natural Sun enabled looks like this.

Screenshot_2015-02-07-19-33-24.png

 

 

Eventually it will look like this:

cloud2.png

Have a question on par values. I have the BioTek 3000 and see that they calibrate it at white T5 values and in the manual there are correction values for different lights such as red/blue LED and different T5's

 

Any input on if I would need to adjust the calibration for the hybrids running all blues and ATI Aqua Blue Special, B+, Coral+, B+ for lighting? I got readings using the par meter but wondering how far these are off from actual. The Manual states that if you are going to calibrate it to other lighting you need to know the reference par value of the lights

 

post-85057-0-57278500-1439383222_thumb.png

 

post-85057-0-51600400-1439383377_thumb.png

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jedimasterben

Have a question on par values. I have the BioTek 3000 and see that they calibrate it at white T5 values and in the manual there are correction values for different lights such as red/blue LED and different T5's

 

Any input on if I would need to adjust the calibration for the hybrids running all blues and ATI Aqua Blue Special, B+, Coral+, B+ for lighting? I got readings using the par meter but wondering how far these are off from actual. The Manual states that if you are going to calibrate it to other lighting you need to know the reference par value of the lights

 

attachicon.gifimage.png

 

attachicon.gifimage.png

Really piss poor decision by BTM to allow end users to calibrate it. Don't touch the calibration, and in a couple of years, send it to Apogee to have it calibrated. If you want to attempt it, you first need a calibrated Licor PAR sensor.

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mturney1

Just received my mini tide. It is on a IM Fusion 10. What is everyone using for settings on that particular tank. Mixed reef with a few sps frags.

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Mirya

Managed to get a shot of all three of my NBR lights. Quad on the Nuvo24, Mini on the Nuvo8, and Duo on the frag tank.

 

Busted_zpslmyeohaf.jpg

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DaveFason

Just received my mini tide. It is on a IM Fusion 10. What is everyone using for settings on that particular tank. Mixed reef with a few sps frags.

Try CH1 70% and CH2 25%.

-Dave

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smeagol108

Okay i just received my duo and i am super psyched. I have a question though about the mount that attaches the gooseneck to the aquarium. is it safe for any part of this mount to be submerged in water? tank is rimless and i keep the water level pretty high (about 1/2 down from top- 3/4 inch. Currently the bracket with the screws on it is slightly submerged (not the screws themselves, just the bracket). Maybe the bottom 1/8 inch if not less or so. Is this safe? Will it be bad for my water/tank? Do i have to mount it higher on the rim? (doesnt feel as sturdy when i tried to do this).

thanks!!

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DaveFason

You will be fine. :)

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smeagol108

Thank u Dave for the quick response.

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smeagol108

Dave I assume u mean I am fine with it in the water slightly correct?

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smeagol108

Hey do just wondering what color/colors should be used for lightening effect? I have the four channel control. Thanks!!

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DaveFason

Hey do just wondering what color/colors should be used for lightening effect? I have the four channel control. Thanks!!

Use the white channel for this. Unless you want some odd looking storms!

-Dave

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