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tibbsy07

tibbsy07 5.5 pico reef

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thurrmac

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tibbsy07

Canisters. You can not get the correct siphon with just the lily pipes.

 

You would need a MAME or something like it.

 

-Dave

Ah ok. Mame's look great, but dang they are $$$$$

 

As far as the overflow part, Dave is spot on. For the outflow, though, you can use one, I did on my 55g tank for the longest time simply because it's what I had lol.

 

 

Be warned, though, that what you are seeing in all the beautiful pics of them on SW tanks is post-cleaning, which is not a quick thing. Within a few days they will be tinted green, and a few more they will be ugly as hell.

I was wondering about how gross they got. Good to know. I think I'll stick with overflow boxes and regular plumbing if I ever decide to go that route.

 

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Thanks and welcome! Sorry there's not much to see yet.

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tibbsy07

I think i figured out why my water's salinity was so low... I think I used the 1/4 cup measuring cup instead of the 1/2 cup... whoops. That would also explain the low Ca, Mg, dKH...

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evanski

I think i figured out why my water's salinity was so low... I think I used the 1/4 cup measuring cup instead of the 1/2 cup... whoops. That would also explain the low Ca, Mg, dKH...

 

And you is a scientist.....SMH... :D

 

Besides, what are you doing outside the metric system??? What are these "cups" of which you speak?

 

Good new though, I always am a bit relieved to find the silly error I was making so I could move forward.

 

Looking forward to seeing more of your tank!

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tibbsy07

And you is a scientist.....SMH... :D

 

Besides, what are you doing outside the metric system??? What are these "cups" of which you speak?

 

Good new though, I always am a bit relieved to find the silly error I was making so I could move forward.

 

Looking forward to seeing more of your tank!

I have no adapter for my electronic scale at home right now. I used to do it all in metric when I had my tank in grad school in the break room and could use everything there.

 

It's been one of those weeks - rookie mistakes in the lab, too. Lack of sleep is a killer.

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tibbsy07

Anyone have suggestions for macros for the display? I was thinking Red gracilaria, maybe some dragon's breath (halymenia, correct?), and a blue macro of some kind? Maybe a gorg (this particular idea may be a bit of a stretch for my experience)?

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tibbsy07

Did a 100% water change tonight. Hopefully this fixes everything. If all goes well, coral this weekend.... i wanted to put my media in the ac70 soon and get the tank stabilized with this stuff. I added a small dose of the marine stabilizer, too.

 

I set up an aquaticlog account but i'm not paying for the premium service. Nice way to keep track of my parameters until i can get a controller/monitor kind of thing. I'll test tomorrow so i can make sure the parameters are good.

 

Any thoughts on my macro question?

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thurrmac

chaetomorpha is a good nutrient exporter might interest you bud

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tibbsy07

chaetomorpha is a good nutrient exporter might interest you bud

I'm going to put somw of that in my ac70, but it's not super pretty so i don't want it in my display. Good call, though!

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tibbsy07

Did a water test today. Things are ok, not great. I think I've decided to drill a hole in the AC70 lid so that my heater will fit in it, but that way I can minimize the amount of evaporation. I am also going to 100% order a glass lid for the tank. I did a 100% water change two nights ago (Thursday) and there is already ~1/3 gallon of topoff needed. It's been cold here and the heat is set at like 68, but it has to come on a lot and I think the vent aims near the tank, and so evaporation is higher. It's also been dry as hell. Lid time.

 

Parameters:

SG: 1.027 (a bit high, but with fresh DI top off it should be fine)

Temp: 76-77ish

Ammonia: 0-0.05 (API color)

Nitrite: 0

Nitrate: 0

Phosphate: 0

pH: 8.2ish

dKH: 10.5 (yay!)

Mg: 1400 (a bit high, correct?)

Ca: 375 (low again :( )

 

Almost ready for coral and fish! I think the tank is good to go, I just won't have any time to get to the LFS in the next week (30-40 minute drive). Dang. I'm going to hunt via craigslist for some small cheap frags.

 

Should I wait until I have stuff IN the tank before I add the chemical filtration media?

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jedimasterben

I would keep away from gracilaria (except G. hayi) as a display macro. Halymenia, star grass, blue ochtodes, hypnea, halimeda, codium, padina, botryocladia, galaxaura, mermaid's/shaving brush, acetabularia, and a few others I can't remember are all good candidates.

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tibbsy07

I would keep away from gracilaria (except G. hayi) as a display macro. Halymenia, star grass, blue ochtodes, hypnea, halimeda, codium, padina, botryocladia, galaxaura, mermaid's/shaving brush, acetabularia, and a few others I can't remember are all good candidates.

Great, thanks!

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tibbsy07

There was a thread recently about plywood tanks, and I think those are really cool. It would probably cost more to make a pico that way than to simply buy a nice one, but I do wonder how well that would work for a pico?

 

I've been considering using GlennR and Reef Gardeners for some coral orders, but I'm wondering if it makes more sense financially and weather-wise to get my coral locally for the beginning? I'm still deciding on macros, but I might try to get some from Macro Algae, but they sell everything in pint-sizes and it feels like a waste pay to get all of that macro and not use 3/4 of it.

 

Note: I'm only putting this here so I won't forget my plan. I have some ideas for this tank in the future... Obviously, we're talking a long time from now (6 months to a year likely). My wife likes the tank so far, but she's not digging the AC70 and everything visible in the rear look. I'd prefer to have the tank in a more visible spot than the tiny office we barely use, too. We also received a letter from our landlords telling us they are selling our place, so we'll have to move again this summer. Not a huge deal, but it does mean I'll have to move across town (less than 5 minutes). So eventually the plan will be to "upgrade" the tank. I'm going to get a nicer 5gish size rimless tank (hopefully a cube), drilled with an glass-holes overflow, connected to one of MicroReef's 2.5g sump/fuge, and I'll use a NanoBox Tide. I still want this to be a pico-esque tank, so no bigger than 5g display. I guess one could argue that a pico doesn't have an overflow/sump/fuge, but my wife would really prefer a cleaner set up than I have.

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gena

There was a thread recently about plywood tanks, and I think those are really cool. It would probably cost more to make a pico that way than to simply buy a nice one, but I do wonder how well that would work for a pico?

 

I've been considering using GlennR and Reef Gardeners for some coral orders, but I'm wondering if it makes more sense financially and weather-wise to get my coral locally for the beginning? I'm still deciding on macros, but I might try to get some from Macro Algae, but they sell everything in pint-sizes and it feels like a waste pay to get all of that macro and not use 3/4 of it.

 

Note: I'm only putting this here so I won't forget my plan. I have some ideas for this tank in the future... Obviously, we're talking a long time from now (6 months to a year likely). My wife likes the tank so far, but she's not digging the AC70 and everything visible in the rear look. I'd prefer to have the tank in a more visible spot than the tiny office we barely use, too. We also received a letter from our landlords telling us they are selling our place, so we'll have to move again this summer. Not a huge deal, but it does mean I'll have to move across town (less than 5 minutes). So eventually the plan will be to "upgrade" the tank. I'm going to get a nicer 5gish size rimless tank (hopefully a cube), drilled with an glass-holes overflow, connected to one of MicroReef's 2.5g sump/fuge, and I'll use a NanoBox Tide. I still want this to be a pico-esque tank, so no bigger than 5g display. I guess one could argue that a pico doesn't have an overflow/sump/fuge, but my wife would really prefer a cleaner set up than I have.

A plywood tank???? Like a tank made out of wood? How does that work????

 

Your future plans sound exactly like what I would like to do in the future :).

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tibbsy07

A plywood tank???? Like a tank made out of wood? How does that work????

 

Your future plans sound exactly like what I would like to do in the future :).

Yeah, it's weird. The back, bottom and one side are plywood on a wood stand. The plywood is sealed with epoxy and some other stuff, then a final coating of reef-safe, water-proof epoxy to seal the wood completely. Then the other side and the front are glass panels, seated into the frame and sealed in place. It's a really cool idea - wood is much easier to drill than glass, so the plumbing is easy. It's cheaper, as plywood is cheap. But it only actually make sense on large tanks, because small tanks aren't too expensive and the amount of plywood to make a small tank would be silly as you'd have to pay for big sheets but only use a small amount.

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thurrmac

plywood tanks are great and a tiring one to work with hahaha...

just imagine water proofing it 5 times to competely seal it :)

but hey once finished this tank rocks...

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tibbsy07

plywood tanks are great and a tiring one to work with hahaha...

just imagine water proofing it 5 times to competely seal it :)

but hey once finished this tank rocks...

I'm sure it is a lot of work! It makes tons of sense for a huge tank, but I think it would cost too much to make my own pico. Especially when something like the JBJ 3g is only 50 bucks with a HOB and light.

 

My AC70 with the 30 impeller is still blowing my sand around. On a positive note, it's not making the water cloudy, but even with a rock over the area, the bottom where the AC70 flows out is bare... Ugh.

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tibbsy07

Is it possible to have micromussas and acans in a tank like this? I was thinking of mainly zoas, palys, rics, shrooms, GSP... but I really like acans, blastos and micros.

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tibbsy07

I tried to cut a glass lid tonight. It has failed miserably... I went to Lowes and bought a 16"x20" sheet of 3/32" thick glass, a glass cutter, and some other stuff.

 

I looked up a bunch of videos about scoring the glass and using oil for the glass cutter, etc. This glass cutter is a P.O.S. It will not score the glass at all. I'm pretty bummed out about this - I wasted like 6 bucks. the cutter just sucks. I'm going to tinker around a bit more tonight before bed. Dang!

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specore

I tried to cut a glass lid tonight. It has failed miserably... I went to Lowes and bought a 16"x20" sheet of 3/32" thick glass, a glass cutter, and some other stuff.

 

I looked up a bunch of videos about scoring the glass and using oil for the glass cutter, etc. This glass cutter is a P.O.S. It will not score the glass at all. I'm pretty bummed out about this - I wasted like 6 bucks. the cutter just sucks. I'm going to tinker around a bit more tonight before bed. Dang!

 

Most Lowes stores will score and snap the glass for you. They have done some for me before and give a cleaner cut than what I have been able to DIY.

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iadubber

^^ Yep my local Lowes will score and snap as well.

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tibbsy07

Most Lowes stores will score and snap the glass for you. They have done some for me before and give a cleaner cut than what I have been able to DIY.

^^ Yep my local Lowes will score and snap as well.

Thanks! I saw they had the glass cutting section. Can they cut a piece OUT of the glass? I want to make a small inset for the AC70.

 

 

Random thought of the day: Most T5 fixtures or T5/LED hybrid fixtures are too long for my pico, right? I also want a second smaller 3g jbj pico at some point. 1 T5 or T5/LED hybrid could arguably be used by both this and the 3g pico if they were next to each other, correct? Even if I had 2 cubes (which would probably work better), say a 5g and 3gish size, I could hand one T5 or T5/LED hybrid and they would be on the same light cycle, etc.

 

Another random thought - could I technically use 2 cubes side by side plumbed together? As is, a 5g cube that acts as a display tank with only a powerhead for flow, but drilled for an overflow/return line that doesn't go down but over to another cube that acts as a display fuge with all the skimmers, etc? Does that makes sense? I know Veng did something kind of similar with his 20L...

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specore

Thanks! I saw they had the glass cutting section. Can they cut a piece OUT of the glass? I want to make a small inset for the AC70.

 

They can't do that. You may be best served to look for a glass shop to do it. Shouldn't be too much for one small piece with one cutout.

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tibbsy07

They can't do that. You may be best served to look for a glass shop to do it. Shouldn't be too much for one small piece with one cutout.

I might just have the glass cut as a rectangle. There would technically be like 1" exposed in the rear, but that's not a HUGE deal for evaporation, right? It's basically be a rectangle of 1"x 8" of open space.

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tibbsy07

Heading to the hardware store tonight to have them cut the glass for me. Yay lids! Also heading to the LFS this weekend (I hope) to actually get some coral... I've been working like crazy and the 40 minute trip to the LFS is just a bit too long to take lately.

 

Here are my stand plans (I don't have any software to draw this out and the free software online won't run on my old computer):

 

My idea is this - water sucks if it spills all over. It ruins stuff. What if a stand could prevent the majority of the water from spilling on to the floor?

 

The top of the stand extends well beyond the tank in either direction, with a small 1/2" lip going around the edge. There are small slits cut into the stand top around all 4 sides of the top, so if the tank starts to leak, it'll drain down below into the stand (see below for more details). Obviously if the tank shatters, much of the water will flow over the stand anyways, but the slits may mitigate some of the water. That would be a catastrophe. My stand design is more for the more likely event of a seam burst or tank leak.

 

Inside the stand, at the very bottom is going to be my sump (double the display volume, half full - so equal water volume to display). The second shelf in the stand will have my ATO. Above the ATO and directly under the stand top, I am going to have a pan/pyrex dish/etc. that is deep enough to hold 0.5-1g of water on a set of sliding arms to make removal easier. The pan is going to have 4 holes drilled with plumbing that allows the water to directly empty down into the sump, reducing the amount of water that then flows around inside the tank.

 

Many people use smaller sumps so as not to overflow the display, but I prefer a larger sump than display. One with 2 times the display volume, in case the display breaks/leaks, the sump can contain all of the water in the system, plus some of the livestock (that survives). I see this debated a lot "what if your overflow clogs and you overflow the display?"

 

In my eyes, there are 3 problems that can occur:

1.) Overflow clogs and display tank overflows

2.) Return pump stops pumping

3.) display tank cracks and leaks

 

All 3 situations can be taken care of with my design. The sump can contain twice the water volume as the display, but only has half. Thus if the display has 10g, the sump is a 20g tank with 10g of water in it. The total water in the system will be ~20g so it could all fit into the sump.

 

In the event of the overflow clogging and the display flooding, most of the water will eventually end up back in the sump. I will still probably spill a good bit, but the drain design will help mitigate the amount that ends up on the floor. In the event of the return pump crapping out, the display will stop putting water into the overflow as soon as the water lines drops low enough. In the event of a leak, the drain design, again, will allow much of the water to end up back in the sump instead of the floor.

 

Another design I was thinking of would be to actually make the top of the stand even higher, maybe 4 inches above the pan in the stand, with the slits like above that allow the water to drain into said pan. At the same time, I build a small reservoir-like ledge around the bottom of the top so that excess water that doesn't go into the drain slits ends up in the reservoir, and that sits flush with the pan, where there is plumbing to allow the reservoir to drain in to the pan at the same time, thus all of it ending up in the sump.

 

Anyways, just typing it all out so I don't forget.

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