carlosmos Posted June 4, 2014 Share Posted June 4, 2014 Before you do that, Send it to me to see if I can get it working for you. You'll need to pay shipping forward and back. Hi , thanks for the support, but let me ask you how are you? are you part of Ledgrupbuy? coralux? nano-reef? I hope you understand that I need to know who want to help me before to send all the material... Thanks Link to comment
carlosmos Posted June 4, 2014 Share Posted June 4, 2014 That's quite an investment to toss out. There is an issue somewhere, but it is not with the LDD or with the boards. Makes me think that something is funky with the power supplies. Are the two connected together or is one power supply running only one board, etc? Hi my friend, Are 2 system independents. One power supply go to the PCB and the other power supply to other different PCB. I will try to put some pictures... https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1205076/image.jpeg https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1205076/image-1.jpeg Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted June 4, 2014 Author Share Posted June 4, 2014 The only things I can see that I would change would be to use a 3-pin power cord to the wall (for the extra ground, this step is important, do it for both power supplies), and run another ground and power to the LDD boards. I doubt that it is the issue, but the boards do have two power inputs and two DC grounds, so I would connect them up and give it a shot. Link to comment
farkwar Posted June 5, 2014 Share Posted June 5, 2014 Hi my friend, Are 2 system independents. One power supply go to the PCB and the other power supply to other different PCB. I will try to put some pictures... https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1205076/image.jpeg'>https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1205076/image.jpeg https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1205076/image-1.jpeg'>https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1205076/image-1.jpeg Dude, Youre supposed to bench test your stuff before you install it. And I already warned you that using that raceway was a bad idea. What is the discoloration on the top power supply. Looks smoked. Link to comment
tibbsy07 Posted June 5, 2014 Share Posted June 5, 2014 What is the discoloration on the top power supply. Looks smoked. I was wondering the same... Link to comment
welight Posted June 5, 2014 Share Posted June 5, 2014 Agreed. But, please confirm - you still not testing SinkPAD MCPCB, I understand you correctly? Yes I have multiple Sinkpads here and tested them against Noctigans, Ali, ali with no dielectric, ali with Direct thermal pump dielectric., No doubt the product is good, but its performance is marginal at lower drive and better at extreme drive Link to comment
DNK Posted June 5, 2014 Share Posted June 5, 2014 No doubt the product is good, but its performance is marginal at lower drive and better at extreme driveYes, sure. But for us is important not drive current, but density of heat flow. If we will use tight LED assembly with relative small current, heat flow will have big density also. By the way, we have seen approximately 20C difference for not very tight assembly relative to such assembly on good usual MCPCB. I think, it is huge difference. Link to comment
evilc66 Posted June 5, 2014 Share Posted June 5, 2014 Dude, Youre supposed to bench test your stuff before you install it. And I already warned you that using that raceway was a bad idea. What is the discoloration on the top power supply. Looks smoked. It's just a reflection of other equipment in the cabinet. Link to comment
carlosmos Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 Dude, Youre supposed to bench test your stuff before you install it. And I already warned you that using that raceway was a bad idea. What is the discoloration on the top power supply. Looks smoked. Is only a reflection. no smoked. At the end, the most technical answer are to connect the ground power supply to increase at the doble value the PAR of the lumia??? Any people check if his lumia use 540mA at 100% powerful? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted June 6, 2014 Author Share Posted June 6, 2014 That's not how constant current drivers work. If they are full on, then they deliver their rated current regardless of the LEDs you are running. Link to comment
farkwar Posted June 7, 2014 Share Posted June 7, 2014 Hi , thanks for the support, but let me ask you how are you? are you part of Ledgrupbuy? coralux? nano-reef? I hope you understand that I need to know who want to help me before to send all the material... Thanks Just another LED DIY reef hobbyist. I was just trying to help and figured no loss potential. After your pic reminded me of your build, I wouldnt touch it if you paid me good money. No offense intended, just a big spaghetti ball of risk. Sometimes I have to remind myself of the Good Samaritan. He was killed for his good deed. Link to comment
carlosmos Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 Ok, Thanks to all people that offer me his real support. Anyway, I'm clear that these leds and drivers are not up when you decide to measure PAR. They have a nice design but a lousy performance. I'll leave you to support a new screen t5. Best regards Link to comment
Yaman Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 Lousy performence? My lumia 5.2 outperforms my old chinaled@110w . And 5.2 is only 70w. U did something wrong Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted June 9, 2014 Author Share Posted June 9, 2014 Ok, Thanks to all people that offer me his real support. Anyway, I'm clear that these leds and drivers are not up when you decide to measure PAR. They have a nice design but a lousy performance. I'll leave you to support a new screen t5. Best regards There really is only way for them to work. If you are measuring 540mA from 700mA drivers, then something is not correct. For you to have two different driver boards, two different power supplies, and 10 LDD drivers all doing the exact same thing, that means that something is wrong somewhere. At this point the only thing I can think of is the Storm. Do you have a cell phone charger handy? You can use it to give a 5v signal to the PWM inputs, as with PWM if you give it 100/100 for intensity it is just a flat signal with no stepping. Link to comment
carlosmos Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 There really is only way for them to work. If you are measuring 540mA from 700mA drivers, then something is not correct. For you to have two different driver boards, two different power supplies, and 10 LDD drivers all doing the exact same thing, that means that something is wrong somewhere. At this point the only thing I can think of is the Storm. Do you have a cell phone charger handy? You can use it to give a 5v signal to the PWM inputs, as with PWM if you give it 100/100 for intensity it is just a flat signal with no stepping. Hi Ben, I did it. I supply 5v to the inout LDD one by one, and not more than 540mA. I change the LDD for others, same result. No have more possibilities .... Storm X is not the problem with this test, LDD was changed and same result,.... only option are the Lumia. Link to comment
Horerczy Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 I'm more willing to bet the meter is out of calibration if its getting measurements like that. Do you have a backup multimeter? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted June 10, 2014 Author Share Posted June 10, 2014 Hi Ben, I did it. I supply 5v to the inout LDD one by one, and not more than 540mA. I change the LDD for others, same result. No have more possibilities .... Storm X is not the problem with this test, LDD was changed and same result,.... only option are the Lumia. No such thing. LEDs can only accept the current given to them by the drivers. They do not drop the current, they don't 'dissipate' the excess, there either is current from the driver in its entirety or there is no current. Any LEDs you attach to those drivers will behave the same, they will be limited to 540mA. I honestly have no clue what's going on, you've exhausted every option that I can think of unfortunately. Link to comment
Björn Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 I did it. I supply 5v to the inout LDD one by one, and not more than 540mA. I change the LDD for others, same result. No have more possibilities .... Storm X is not the problem with this test, LDD was changed and same result,.... only option are the Lumia. How exactly are you feeding the drivers the 5V signal and how did you verify that it's actually 5V? And how exactly do you measure the current to the LEDs to 540mA and have you verified that measurement somehow. I don't mean to start an argument with you it's just that if you supply a 700mA dimming driver a full 5V to the dimming input it will output 700mA, one might be defective but you see the same behavior on several drivers. The led itself is just an analog component, a diode. Like Ben said above it can't "hide" any amps somewhere Link to comment
carlosmos Posted June 16, 2014 Share Posted June 16, 2014 How exactly are you feeding the drivers the 5V signal and how did you verify that it's actually 5V? And how exactly do you measure the current to the LEDs to 540mA and have you verified that measurement somehow. I don't mean to start an argument with you it's just that if you supply a 700mA dimming driver a full 5V to the dimming input it will output 700mA, one might be defective but you see the same behavior on several drivers. The led itself is just an analog component, a diode. Like Ben said above it can't "hide" any amps somewhere Hi Björn. I try to explain you... 1) How exactly are you feeding the drivers the 5V signal and how did you verify that it's actually 5V? Measured in the DC input DLL. I make the test to put 4.5v dc with batteries and the results are the same. 2) how exactly do you measure the current to the LEDs to 540mA and have you verified that measurement somehow With a multimeter, connected in serie at the exit of one LDD. I just remove all the system from by aquarium, and I will do a new video with the connections and all the test that people want to show it, in my table that's more easy. Thanks Carlos Link to comment
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