Need Help with JBJ 28g -where is the LED Gawd

[WmTasker]

I have the JBJ 28g professional LED Nano-cube. The LED systems works just as it should. I just want to be able to put a dimmer on the setup to control lights. Below is a pic of the LED strip that is in the aquarium. I believe it consist of five 3w LED in series. I was wondering if I could hook up a dimmable buckpuck driver to each LED strip. I wish I could just hook a dimmer up to the existing ballast but I don't think that would work.

 

Thanks for anyones input on my question.

 

Billy

 

 

[iPhone]

there is an led gawd?

[MeepNand]

You have to remove the current driver (no pun intended) and replace it entirely.

And from the pic you posted, they seem to be 1w leds. Also, 5 leds, 1w or 3w, won't support nothing. Get something more powerful.

EDIT: The leds that come from the hood are only 27w total, and don't seem to be of very high quality. I recommend replacing the light with a more powerful one or getting another 10 3w leds to get good lighting.

[WmTasker]

You have to remove the current driver (no pun intended) and replace it entirely.

And from the pic you posted, they seem to be 1w leds. Also, 5 leds, 1w or 3w, won't support nothing. Get something more powerful.

EDIT: The leds that come from the hood are only 27w total, and don't seem to be of very high quality. I recommend replacing the light with a more powerful one or getting another 10 3w leds to get good lighting.

 

This is the Advanced Setup with 89 watts of LEDs

 

• Daylight – 25 x 3 Watt – 14K
• Dawn/Dusk – 4 x 3 Watt – Actinic/466nm
• Moon – 2 x 1 Watt – Nite-Vu/456nm

The daylight is overwhelming the actinic. I want to put the daylights on a dimmer and add more actinic LEDs. I already know how I will add 12 blue LEDs that will be on dimmers, i just need to figure out the most cost affective way to dim the daylights without spending $300 or more right now. Once I have the new drivers in then down the road I can switch out the daylight LEDs.

[MeepNand]

Ah, okay then. In that case, replace the driver for the daylights with a dimmable meanwell. Actually get 2 meanwells, each capable of 12 leds; this should come out to about $50.

As a side note, I don't really like 14k whites. The spectum they put out is more for eyes than growth, but if you can't replace them don't worry about it.

EDIT: Only 4 royal blues!? In addition to the dimmer, get at least 4 more royal blues.

DOUBLE EDIT: 466nm isn't even royal blue. Replace the royal blues entirely with actual CREE or LUXEON royal blues (455nm), and add 4 roylal blues too.

[Milad LEDGroupBuy.com]

You basically need to remove the driver that is running them and put in some LDD drivers (http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/meanwell-ldd-700hw-led-driver/)

 

You just need to find out what the max current is of the LEDs (the current driver might have it on its label) and also make sure the power supply running the current drivers is a DC power supply that will work with the LDD drivers.

 

Once you have the LDD in place, you can setup a controller or something to dim them.

[WmTasker]

You basically need to remove the driver that is running them and put in some LDD drivers (http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/meanwell-ldd-700hw-led-driver/)

 

You just need to find out what the max current is of the LEDs (the current driver might have it on its label) and also make sure the power supply running the current drivers is a DC power supply that will work with the LDD drivers.

 

Once you have the LDD in place, you can setup a controller or something to dim them.

 

Those drivers are much less than the ones I've been looking at. I'm not good at figuring out drivers, but those look like the output is dependent on the size of the input. Are they easy to wire? I could do one driver for each group of 5 LEDs?

 

I haven't opened up my canopy yet to look close to the LED strips, but I don't know how I would hook more than one to a driver. I am unsure if I could place two strips in series. Would each drive require its own 10K Ohm Linear Potentiometer or could I wire a few drivers to one in parallel?

What type of power supply is needed to run these drivers?

 

Ah, okay then. In that case, replace the driver for the daylights with a dimmable meanwell. Actually get 2 meanwells, each capable of 12 leds; this should come out to about $50.

As a side note, I don't really like 14k whites. The spectum they put out is more for eyes than growth, but if you can't replace them don't worry about it.

EDIT: Only 4 royal blues!? In addition to the dimmer, get at least 4 more royal blues.

DOUBLE EDIT: 466nm isn't even royal blue. Replace the royal blues entirely with actual CREE or LUXEON royal blues (455nm), and add 4 roylal blues too.

 

I was just looking at rapid led and I was thinking about adding a 4 LED Moon light with royal blue to offset the 14K.

[Milad LEDGroupBuy.com]

Those drivers are much less than the ones I've been looking at. I'm not good at figuring out drivers, but those look like the output is dependent on the size of the input. Are they easy to wire? I could do one driver for each group of 5 LEDs?

 

I haven't opened up my canopy yet to look close to the LED strips, but I don't know how I would hook more than one to a driver. I am unsure if I could place two strips in series. Would each drive require its own 10K Ohm Linear Potentiometer or could I wire a few drivers to one in parallel?

What type of power supply is needed to run these drivers?

Snap a picture of its internals. And the power supply brick that is powering it. I would guess there is a DC power supply that goes to some sort of drivers inside near the LEDs. The LEDs are probably already wired in series.

[MeepNand]

I was just looking at rapid led and I was thinking about adding a 4 LED Moon light with royal blue to offset the 14K.

The point is not to offset the 14k. The point is that 14k leds aren't great for aquariums, or at least not for coral; leds already give out a narrow spectrum and using high kelvin leds is going to amplify that affect.

[WmTasker]

The point is not to offset the 14k. The point is that 14k leds aren't great for aquariums, or at least not for coral; leds already give out a narrow spectrum and using high kelvin leds is going to amplify that affect.

 

Then what can I add to the setup to help balance everything without replacing all the LEDs?

 

What LED mix could I use if I wanted to add one driver with 10 LEDs to the existing LED setup?

[MeepNand]

10 more leds? Get 2 neutral white and 8 royal blue if you want more blue. Or do 6 RB and 4 NW if you want spectrum.

I guess 14k leds are okay (mediocre), but neutral whites are far better.

[WmTasker]

Asid61 ..... Thanks for all the input.

 

Here are some pics from my canopy. There are the 5 strips of 5 x 3 watt 14k LEDs in the middle. There are the 2 x 1 watt LEDs on the edge of the Heat Sink for moon lights. Finally, there are 4 x 3 watt LEDs in the corners for actinic. There is also a close up of the 3 watt LEDs with the circuit board that helps run the 14k LEDS and controls the fans. The white ballast is what is used to run the 4 x 3 watt actinic LEDs. I tried to open the ballast for running the 14k LEDs, but you can see what I found. So I took a pic of the label on the housing. Hope the information on the driver might help.

 

My questions:

1. Can I replace the actinic LEDs with these LEDS and still use the little Driver in the canopy to run them?
2. Is that little Driver already maxed out with the 4 x 3 watt LEDs?
3. If I replace the 14K LEDs, can I run any new ones with these white LEDS?
4. It looks like that each strip of 5 x 14K LEDs are in series then back to the circuit board. I wonder if I could wire 5 cree LEDs in series to take the place of one strip?
5. Any input on how to update this canopy for around $100?

I'm sure I'll think of more questions after I was thinking about it a few more hours. Thanks in advanced.

[MeepNand]

Asid61 ..... Thanks for all the input.

 

Here are some pics from my canopy. There are the 5 strips of 5 x 3 watt 14k LEDs in the middle. There are the 2 x 1 watt LEDs on the edge of the Heat Sink for moon lights. Finally, there are 4 x 3 watt LEDs in the corners for actinic. There is also a close up of the 3 watt LEDs with the circuit board that helps run the 14k LEDS and controls the fans. The white ballast is what is used to run the 4 x 3 watt actinic LEDs. I tried to open the ballast for running the 14k LEDs, but you can see what I found. So I took a pic of the label on the housing. Hope the information on the driver might help.

 

My questions:

1. Can I replace the actinic LEDs with these LEDS and still use the little Driver in the canopy to run them?
2. Is that little Driver already maxed out with the 4 x 3 watt LEDs?
3. If I replace the 14K LEDs, can I run any new ones with these white LEDS?
4. It looks like that each strip of 5 x 14K LEDs are in series then back to the circuit board. I wonder if I could wire 5 cree LEDs in series to take the place of one strip?
5. Any input on how to update this canopy for around $100?

I'm sure I'll think of more questions after I was thinking about it a few more hours. Thanks in advanced.

1:Actinics, sure. The ones you posted are fine, but-

2: the driver is prob. only able to take 4, and not at very high currents either. So you will be running 1 amp blues on 600ma, which isn't a very cost effective solution.

3: Those whites are cool whites; get neutral whites instead. They supply better spectrum for photosynthesis.

4: Certainly. Just desolder the leds already there and solder the Cree led wires to where the leds used to be. If the polarity is unmarked, check it with a multimeter. Or run a 9v battery through the old led before the desolder it to find out the polarity (be sure to mark the polarity before removing the led)

5: Just replace the white leds and add a better driver. You already have a heatsink, so that's like $30 already supplied.

[WmTasker]

 

2: the driver is prob. only able to take 4, and not at very high currents either. So you will be running 1 amp blues on 600ma, which isn't a very cost effective solution.

My line of thinking here is that I would rather have better quality/spectrum of LEDs on a less driver than the lesser driver running wrong color and lesser drivers.

 

3: Those whites are cool whites; get neutral whites instead. They supply better spectrum for photosynthesis.

I was looking at the K color temp of the LEDs and the cool whites look more like the color need for reef. Is the Kelvin not as important with LEDs? Will those give more of a yellow look? I just noticed that most of the retro-kits come with the cool white LEDs?

 

4: Certainly. Just desolder the leds already there and solder the Cree led wires to where the leds used to be. If the polarity is unmarked, check it with a multimeter. Or run a 9v battery through the old led before the desolder it to find out the polarity (be sure to mark the polarity before removing the led).

The strips looked like they are glued to the heat sink or thermal pad was used. Will it come off easily or mess up the heat sink. Im sure it will distroy the LED strips. I know the strips have red and black wires going to them, but I will check to see if the polarity is marked on them. If I use the 9v battery, do I just touch the wires to the terminals? will it hurt the LEDs if it is reversed?

 

5: Just replace the white leds and add a better driver. You already have a heatsink, so that's like $30 already supplied.

The end goal is to have everything replaced, but I am setting this up on a budget. I might just run some Cree LEDs on the JBJ driver till more funs become available. Does that sound ok?

[MeepNand]

2: Okay, that's fine. Most people run at 70% anyway.

3: Cool whites supply less red and violet. Neutral whites are better because you generally add royal blues. Looks at jedimasterben's links in his signature. Also they look better.

4: The led strips have beads on them, no? So what you do to find out the polarity by unplugging the led strip and applying a 9v battery to the little strips of metal coming out of the led beads, so you can find out the + and -, depending on the wires of the 9v battery. This will likely damage the beads, but you'll throw them away anyway. I attached a diagram so you can see what the led beads are.

5: Yes, you can do that, but removing the white led strips entirely and adding new neutral whites in their place might be better.

[WmTasker]

So I think the game plan will be to add some royal blue LEDs to start with. I have read that the LED setup doesn't have enough actinic. How easy will it be to remove/move LEDs around if I use the themal pads to stick them in place? Will I ruin the LEDs if I try to remove them from the heat sink if the are attached with thermal pads?

[nicksapnut]

any updates on tank?

I'm thinking of adding 5 royal blues to mine

[WmTasker]

I sold the led hood and converted a cf-quad hood to led with a setup I got from ledgroupbuy.com

[EastMtnReef]

Has anyone completed an upgrade like this? I'm a little disappointed in the daylights as well. And with all the cool dimmers out there it sure would be nice to have good lighting and a good dimmer. I have an Orbit light on my QT and that wireless remote dimmer is SWEET! Would like to retrofit that into my hood.

[WmTasker]

Has anyone completed an upgrade like this? I'm a little disappointed in the daylights as well. And with all the cool dimmers out there it sure would be nice to have good lighting and a good dimmer. I have an Orbit light on my QT and that wireless remote dimmer is SWEET! Would like to retrofit that into my hood.

 

I ended up just gutting the whole thing and doing a complete DIY LEDs and Controller.

 

http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/329993-wmtaskers-jbj-28g-nano-cube-with-custom-leds-and-controller/

[SeattleReefer]

I know this is an old thread but.....

 

I have the same system and my 4 actinic lights are out (I bought a new driver and that wasn't it ) I'm going to buy 4 new and better lights you guys mentioned above unless there is a better option with the current driver installed. I also don't want to gut this hood, not yet anyway.

 

So two things/options... If I remove the 4 original actinic LED's they have their own little heat sinks on the back, that's great but can I just pull them off to attach to the new LED's I'm replacing them with? Or would it be better to use my solder gun and remove just the LED/bead and buy just those to add to my original LEDS. Seems like option one would be best and less work if I can just remove the heat sinks to add to the new LEDS.