What are PAR requirements to grow and keep SPS corals?

[Paleoreef103]

A user hooking up a PAR meter and testing the output of their Kessil light and reporting their results is an "experiment" and their results are "facts". This is not "misleading information".

Their results are observations, but they are a bit misleading. The most common PAR meter available to reefers are the Apogee units (I have one). The Apogee units are not very sensitive to blue and violet lights (~20% under represented). In general, PAR values measured with an Apogee unit should be read as "the PAR is somewhere between the measured value and 1.25X the measured value."

 

As for Kessils, we do have evidence that the A350 grows some SPS fairly well. The A150 is fine for most LPS (great for Acans), but produce remarkably little light (IIRC ~30 measured PAR 18" from the light). PAR 38 bulbs are almost universally stronger (but don't have perfect blending like the Kessils). Kessils have their uses, but they are not optimal for SPS.

[rkum19]

Their results are observations, but they are a bit misleading. The most common PAR meter available to reefers are the Apogee units (I have one). The Apogee units are not very sensitive to blue and violet lights (~20% under represented). In general, PAR values measured with an Apogee unit should be read as "the PAR is somewhere between the measured value and 1.25X the measured value."

 

As for Kessils, we do have evidence that the A350 grows some SPS fairly well. The A150 is fine for most LPS (great for Acans), but produce remarkably little light (IIRC ~30 measured PAR 18" from the light). PAR 38 bulbs are almost universally stronger (but don't have perfect blending like the Kessils). Kessils have their uses, but they are not optimal for SPS.

From your experience what range in PARS have you seen successful sps growth?

 

 

A user hooking up a PAR meter and testing the output of their Kessil light and reporting their results is an "experiment" and their results are "facts". This is not "misleading information".

 

Again, this wasn't a thread for discussing which Kessil light you were going to buy. Thanks for ruining it.

No this thread is not about Kessil. Kessil was mentioned when you stated,

 

"When I picked up the yellow lantana, the LFS had one that they were trying to get to color up and it was about 4"-6" from their Kessil 350 in a display tank, which would mean it was getting blasted with about 600-800 PAR"

 

Thanks for providing misleading information.

You didn't provide any documented controlled experiment showing growth of sps coral at 600plus PAR. You looked at one thread of someone measuring PAR's of a A350W kessil then you picked up your corals at your local fish store where you didn't even measure the PAR values that your TWO sps corals were being blasted with. Then, based on that you state that "many sps need 600-800 PAR value"

 

Im not trying to start an argument. I didn't ask for YOU to reply to MY thread. I want to know whats true and what is not.

[Paleoreef103]

From your experience what range in PARS have you seen successful sps growth?

Very loaded question. Some Montipora and deep water acros do okay at 150-200 PAR. Others are happy in the 300-400 range. Others still will brown out below 500. My tank has a gradient from about 200-500 across the tank. Personally, 200 PAR is the absolute lowest I'd go for any SPS and even then you'd better expect a lot of browning out. For a pure SPS tank I'd aim for a sandbed value of ~300. If your light doesn't hit 300 PAR on the sandbed in a nano tank then don't keep anything other than the easiest SPS (aka stick to monti caps and Pocillopora)

[Amphiprion1]

Very loaded question. Some Montipora and deep water acros do okay at 150-200 PAR. Others are happy in the 300-400 range. Others still will brown out below 500. My tank has a gradient from about 200-500 across the tank. Personally, 200 PAR is the absolute lowest I'd go for any SPS and even then you'd better expect a lot of browning out. For a pure SPS tank I'd aim for a sandbed value of ~300. If your light doesn't hit 300 PAR on the sandbed in a nano tank then don't keep anything other than the easiest SPS (aka stick to monti caps and Pocillopora)

That's kinda how I feel. It may not be 100% necessary to have it that high, but I guess, for me at least, it is a holdover from the past. That being said, there are a lot of people that have sand bed values about half that, but I still prefer higher values.

[rkum19]

You are indeed trying to start an argument. Why else would you come onto this thread complaining about being "misled" on another?

 

Again, this thread is about light needs of corals.

 

You are sensitive. Im telling you I'm not trying to argue then you say I am. YOU came onto MY thread that I created. I did not ask for your opinion. Seems like your following me. I did not seek you out.

 

 

 

Very loaded question. Some Montipora and deep water acros do okay at 150-200 PAR. Others are happy in the 300-400 range. Others still will brown out below 500. My tank has a gradient from about 200-500 across the tank. Personally, 200 PAR is the absolute lowest I'd go for any SPS and even then you'd better expect a lot of browning out. For a pure SPS tank I'd aim for a sandbed value of ~300. If your light doesn't hit 300 PAR on the sandbed in a nano tank then don't keep anything other than the easiest SPS (aka stick to monti caps and Pocillopora)

 

Thanks, seem like most sps that I've kept have been fine under my good old 150w sunpod, kessils a150w, and AI nano. I was concerned that I needed a stronger light to keep above 600 PAR for when my sps started growing. What light are you running and what is your schedule? Do you think its neccessary to upgrade your light to a greater PAR once your sps start taking off? How are your sps doing under 200-500 PAR? Lastly how long have you had them?

[rkum19]

You are indeed trying to start an argument. Why else would you come onto this thread complaining about being "misled" on another?

 

Again, this thread is about light needs of corals.

 

So your claming that I created this thread for the purpose of starting an argument with you?

 

I guess I didn't realize that I needed an invitation to post to your thread. Seems pretty childish.

What a waste of time you are. Don't know what you have against me. But I can see talking to you is getting no where.

[rkum19]

Their results are observations, but they are a bit misleading. The most common PAR meter available to reefers are the Apogee units (I have one). The Apogee units are not very sensitive to blue and violet lights (~20% under represented). In general, PAR values measured with an Apogee unit should be read as "the PAR is somewhere between the measured value and 1.25X the measured value."

 

As for Kessils, we do have evidence that the A350 grows some SPS fairly well. The A150 is fine for most LPS (great for Acans), but produce remarkably little light (IIRC ~30 measured PAR 18" from the light). PAR 38 bulbs are almost universally stronger (but don't have perfect blending like the Kessils). Kessils have their uses, but they are not optimal for SPS.

How much did that Apogee unit cost you.

[Paleoreef103]

How much did that Apogee unit cost you.

~$400 dollars. It was bought using grant money, so it's not mine, but I use it in my lab and can take it home overnight to make some measurements if I want.

 

Thanks, seem like most sps that I've kept have been fine under my good old 150w sunpod, kessils a150w, and AI nano. I was concerned that I needed a stronger light to keep above 600 PAR for when my sps started growing. What light are you running and what is your schedule? Do you think its neccessary to upgrade your light to a greater PAR once your sps start taking off? How are your sps doing under 200-500 PAR? Lastly how long have you had them?

I have a DIY LED unit. It runs for eight hours a day including an hour ramp up and an hour dimming. My SPS is doing fine, but I am adding a few spectral tweaks. I think I'll be happy with that range between 300-700. I've had my LEDs for about 18 months. Growth is similar to when they were under a 250W phoenix 14K bulb.

[Nano sapiens]

I bought just the Apogee Quantum Sensor ('electric' calibration) and a digital multimeter and it works just fine Google should return results for more info.

 

In my small system, I elected to have a mixture of different types of corals. By design, I keep a number of different SPS that don't require very high light intensity, including some Acros. The reason for the lower PAR (~90 PAR on the SB from LEDs) is so that I can have my Ricordias and Mussids (Acans & Lobophyllia) out in the open without roasting them.