The Doc is in - ATI & Tooth Dust powered - new pics on pg 32

[DRLOVEtoreef]

To the systems specs...

 

Two tanks plumbed into one TriggerSys sump ....

Main Tank (dominant anemone system and LPS)
56" long x 14" wide and 12" tall ... rimless with black silicone ... external overflow ... low iron glass

SPS Tank

30" long x 18" wide and 12" tall ... rimless with black silicone ... external overflow ... low iron glass

 

Vertex Omega 150 skimmer

ATI SunPower dimmable fixtures (48" x 4 bulbs and 24" x 6 bulbs)

reefkeeper lite
tunze osmolator for top-off
ecotech mp40 and mp 10 x2 for flow
deep cycle marine battery with trickle charger for battery back-up for ecotechs
Bubble Magus doser for dosing x2
Minimal rock, barebottom

FTS from 5/30/14

http://s192.photobucket.com/user/lovetoreef/media/FTS-5-29-14_zpsb8baf27b.jpg.html'>

[Arkayology]

For those that remember me ... I have several setups over the years ... I took a nice break and have the itch to setup a new system .... Here are my thoughts

1. Long shallow tank ... 48x14x12 (lwh) ... Low iron glass on the front ... Rimless with black silicone

2. At one end create a dsb/mangrove section that is separated from the rest of the tank by a dividing piece of glass with overflows ... So when looking at the tank the right side has a 12" section separated with glass ... Return from sump flows from corner across dsb and mangroves and then through the overflow teeth to the display section which is 36" long

3. Main section is bare bottom with high flow - vortech or tunzes

4. Houses 5-6 sps colonies only ... Minimal rock work ... Focus on growth only

5. Lighting is by a 36" dim able ati sun power ... One spotlight led on mangrove section

6. High quality skimmer - which one ?? - long sump with areas for detritus traps ... Eheim or tunze return pump

7. ATo setup and dose 3 part

8. Low fish load ... 2-4 wrasses

9. Sps would be ... Oregon tort ... Green slimer ... Purple plasma ... Red and blue milli ... Red planet ... M setosa

I like the display mangrove fuge. You could put a predator or something in there and make it totally awesome. As for your skimmer, I would look into bubble magus. I use a reef octo INT 1000 and have had good luck with it. Can't wait to see how this progresses.

[Quantum]

sounds cool. im following. as for skimmer...

 

bubble king, ATB, warner marine, reef octopus, tunze all have great build quality

[DRLOVEtoreef]

I think I may end up going with no display fuge to maximize space for the sps corals ... plus, I want to keep the display as clean as possible ... when viewing the tank, the left end will be visible when you walk into the sitting room ... the right end won't .. so, I can place my return and 2 mp40s on the right ... the overflow internal on the back left corner ... keep it very clean ...

 

I like the look of the new ATI powermodules they are coming out with ... LEDS and t5s combine the best of both worlds for me ... you get the coverage of the t5s and shimmer from LEDS with minimal heat production ...

 

what are you guys thinking of chaeto vs. dsb for filtration?

 

You and I have similar taste in tanks and corals I like the display mangrove fuge. You could put a predator or something in there and make it totally awesome. As for your skimmer, I would look into bubble magus. I use a reef octo INT 1000 and have had good luck with it. Can't wait to see how this progresses.

 

Thanks ... still not sure on the skimmer ... I really want a high quality skimmer

[Daveg99]

Gmacy? Didnt know you were on here too.

[DRLOVEtoreef]

Gmacy? Didnt know you were on here too.

 

Hi Dave ...

 

I have been a self admitted troll on here ... I love so many of these tanks and my design concepts are a bit more well received here

 

Who did you order your PA tank through?

 

sounds cool. im following. as for skimmer...

 

bubble king, ATB, warner marine, reef octopus, tunze all have great build quality

 

I love the design and build of the AVAST cone skimmer .. the "pearl" i think they call it ... I just wish they made a smaller version ... I am trying to design this system to minimize any detritus build up and reduce maintenance ... so, I like the concept of a recirculating skimmer fed from the tank overflow ... that way any waste flows straight into the skimmer thus reducing build up in the sump ... thoughts?

[Daveg99]

I got mine when Dallas mas did a meeting there. It was a one time deal and it was cheap! I have ordered one through Rodney before though. His name is my exotic fish on dfwmas

[DRLOVEtoreef]

I got mine when Dallas mas did a meeting there. It was a one time deal and it was cheap! I have ordered one through Rodney before though. His name is my exotic fish on dfwmas

 

Thanks Dave ... I like the concept of the PVC bottom as I want this tank bare bottom ... I had PA build me a tank a couple of years ago and the silicone was a little sloppy and not perfect ... How was your tank

[DRLOVEtoreef]

I did some measuring and planning tonight ... I am leaning towards the following specs

 

56" long

14" wide (front to back)

12" tall

PVC bottom

Low iron glass on the front and left side (when looking at tank)

Blacked out rear and right end

Black silicone

Schedule 80 3/4" bulkhead on the right end for a return

Overflow in left rear corner with a sch 80 1" bulkhead ... Black overflow teeth

[DRLOVEtoreef]

I am still working on bids for the tank, but, talked it over with the wifey last night and got approval ... that is huge! at this point, I need to get the tank bids ironed out and get the tank built ...

 

design wise, I think I am going to hold out for the new powermodules ATI is releasing later ... t5's and LED combination ...

 

still debating chaeto vs dsb and calcium reactor vs 2 part

 

Here is the link to the write up ReefBuilders did on the new ATI fixtures

http://reefbuilders.com/2012/05/30/ati- ... rid-light/

[JR!]

Here is the link to the write up ReefBuilders did on the new ATI fixtures

http://reefbuilders.com/2012/05/30/ati- ... rid-light/

this interests me.

[DRLOVEtoreef]

Update: I have decided on the tank builder ... it is a local guy who has built numerous tanks for me in the past ... the quality of his work is top notch ... clean, technically spot on and willing to work with me on the design ... here is a rough sketch of the tank.

 

The final dimensions of the tank are 56" long, 14" wide and 12" tall ... 1/2" glass all the way around ... low iron on the front and left end ... black silicone, rimless (and trimless) ... external overflow and blacked out back pane and one end

[DRLOVEtoreef]

this interests me.

 

I agree ... it has the potential to be something pretty cool!

[DRLOVEtoreef]

David is making great progress on the aquarium ... there was a minor delay due to the glass supplier, but, nothing major ...

 

Here is a picture of the tank sitting on the front ... you can see the overflow cut out on the left and return bulkhead hole on right ... for those curious about the difference in starphire vs. regular glass, the bottom pane and left end are starphire - the rest are regular glass ... this is 1/2" glass

 

[DRLOVEtoreef]

[jedimasterben]

jeebus.

 

edit: also, I see you're looking to put two MP40 on it? Two Mp10 would be more than sufficient. I've got a 48x24x16 tank with two MP10 and it's pretty much perfect.

[hypersnyper694788]

i love the demensions and the external overflow box is awesome!

[Spirofucci]

Sweet baby jeez! Not only is the tank dimens cool, but I love that style of overflow.

[DRLOVEtoreef]

Thank you for the all of the replies ... I think I am going to go with a slightly different stocking plan ... I am considering going with hammer, frogspawns and torches only ... I saw some pictures of a tank that did that and it was very cool ... I just don't have the time I feel it takes to maintain a high level sps system.

 

With that in mind, I will likely go with one mp40 only ... since the tank is built out of 1/2" glass (overkill, but, I wanted max strength), the mp10's are out ... I wish EcoTech would redesign the mp40 to mirror the style of the mp10 or mp60 though.

 

 

 

Sweet baby jeez! Not only is the tank dimens cool, but I love that style of overflow.

 

Thank you - I think the tank is going to turn out pretty cool ... the overflow works great ... this is the second tank I have done this with ... makes maintenance much easier and you don't lose the footprint inside your tank ...

 

the back of the tank is covered with ABS ... but, the one return bulkhead wouldn't seal against the ABS and then glass ... so, David did an amazing job leaving a space for the bulkhead as you can see below.

 

[DRLOVEtoreef]

for the lighting on this tank, I went back and forth between a custom fixture vs. something like an AI Vega ... .in the end, I wanted the ability to dial in the color with ease, but, the sunrise and sunset features didn't matter as much ...

 

I wanted the most colors I could get, and, since this is a shallow tank, I opted to go with a custom fixture ... not sure how well the schematic will show, but, here is a picture that shows the LED layout ...

 

[jedimasterben]

MP10 are fine to use on 1/2" glass. I've had three different ones on my tank, which uses 1/2".

 

for the lighting on this tank, I went back and forth between a custom fixture vs. something like an AI Vega ... .in the end, I wanted the ability to dial in the color with ease, but, the sunrise and sunset features didn't matter as much ...

 

I wanted the most colors I could get, and, since this is a shallow tank, I opted to go with a custom fixture ... not sure how well the schematic will show, but, here is a picture that shows the LED layout ...

 

that picture is so tiny that I can't see what you're going with. I know one thing I see is green, which is wholly unnecessary, it won't add coloration nor fluorescence that cyan and neutral white won't cover. I can get you a good layout for use over the tank a little later in the day.

[steely185]

If you are going to use an mp40 I would recommend one of the surface shields like:

 

http://www.badfishreefsystems.com/coming_soon_6.html

 

The only problem is that they don't currently make them for an mp40 as far as I know. I know there are mp10 shields out there and Rehype used one in the past.

 

I had an mp10 on my shallow tank which was only 10" high and you couldn't turn the speed up but so high. If you turned it up too high you would suck in air from the surface or start small sand storms. Take that into consideration when you choose your sand size. A larger grain of sand shouldn't present too many issues with sand storms. You probably will want that higher flow rate since you are working with a longer tank. The only other option would be a change in pumps to one with more linear flow.

[jedimasterben]

Ok, looking at it a bit closer, you've got a mixture of cool white, neutral white, warm white, royal , cool blue, green, cyan, violet UV (they're one or the other, not both, don't know what Rapid is thinking), red, and amber.

 

All you need are neutral white, royal blue, cool blue, cyan, deep red, and violet, green and amber aren't necessary when using neutral white. Cool white only trades much needed spectrum for raw output, but the output doesn't necessarily mean higher usable PAR, and warm white reduce the blue output and trades for more red and yellow, which, if you're adding deep red, isn't necessary. Standard red is not hitting as powerful of a photosynthetic peak as 660nm, and the neutral white LEDs already are hitting 630nm, so it is unnecessary, as well.

 

What I'd suggest over the tank:

 

6-8x NW (4000-4500k)

12-16x RB

4x OCW stars (deep red, cyan, cool blue on one star, I prefer using Luxeon Rebels from Steve's LEDs)

6x violet (make sure they aren't UV, I prefer the ones from Steve's LEDs)

 

For drivers, get them from Bravo Electro, you'll save yourself a lot of money. For neutral white, use a single ELN-30-24D, for RB, use an ELN-60-48D, and for OCW and violet use two ELN-30-48D. The OCW produces a slight green tint because of the powerful cyan Rebel, but once another driver is powered, the green goes away and you're left looking at the white and royal blue LEDs' color.

 

And as far as arrangement, the tank is only 12" in width, so you do not need to do more than arrange them in a simple line as long as you are using 3up stars, and you won't have any issues with color banding.

[DRLOVEtoreef]

great feedback guys - thanks.

 

MP10 are fine to use on 1/2" glass. I've had three different ones on my tank, which uses 1/2".

 

 

that picture is so tiny that I can't see what you're going with. I know one thing I see is green, which is wholly unnecessary, it won't add coloration nor fluorescence that cyan and neutral white won't cover. I can get you a good layout for use over the tank a little later in the day.

 

 

I checked again on the mp10 ... EcoTech says their recommended max thickness in glass for the mp10's is 3/8" glass ... anything more and it starts to strain the magnets

[jedimasterben]

I checked again on the mp10 ... EcoTech says their recommended max thickness in glass for the mp10's is 3/8" glass ... anything more and it starts to strain the magnets

A lot of people do it without issue, it's one of those things that Ecotech doesn't want just in case, so they list the maximum as 3/8". A MP40 on that tank will prevent you from having most substrates (even heavier sands, you'd need crushed coral at least), the flow is so wide and strong.