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Finding Paulo

50G SPS CUBE

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Finding Paulo

My 50G CUBE

 


WSUP FELLOW REEFERS!!

im back and im back with a 50! yeahhhh mannn. ;):):D:lol:

 

 

finally got the dream tank i always wanted because im sucha bamf! :haha:



Tank : 24x24x20h

 

 

  • 3 side starphire glass
  • 2 inch sand bed
  • 40 lbs live rocks

Sump : 18G with refugium (will have to do for now)

 

 

  • 1st chamber - 1150 conic skimmer and Conic bio reactor
  • 2nd chamber - refugium (sandbed and chaeto)
  • 3rd chamber - 495GPH return (will upgrade to tunze 1073), chemipure/purigen

Lighting :

 

  • Ecotech Radion Xr30w upgraded tir lens

 

Equipment :

  • 2x MP10wes
  • conic skimmer 1150
  • bio reactor with two little fishies pellet
  • piranha mag float
  • JBJ ATO
  • Aqua Euro 1/10 hp Chiller

 

 

 

 

HERE IT IS: im a little late on this build thread so this will be from the beg till present, sorry.

1JPG.jpg

2JPG.jpg

70 gallons of water in a c-class had me trippin balls. :scarry:omgomgomg:scarry:
4JPG.jpg

starting to fill her up :haha::haha::haha:
3JPG.jpg

oh yeahh...
1fist.jpg

This was the first time i ever handled a sump. It was a little bit confusing at first but i think i understand the concept now.
1st chamber : you know i ad to do a skimmer and bio reactor. I learned that it is more efficient to put the reactor's water outtake before your skimmers intake.
3bioreactor.jpg
Really appreciating the skimmer going to work!
3askimmer.jpg

i have a cheap light for my algae. do i need something better? are there any standard requirements that need to be met?
4refigium.jpg

pump is ninja quiet. however it doesnt meet my satisfaction. planning on upgrading to a tunze 1073 for more outflow. (this one is 495gph, and i think its probably in the 300's @4ft of head)
5return.jpg

Thing i will always carry in my filtration.
2goodstuff.jpg

Also running the ATO in the last chamber. Im thinking this is the most efficient way to introduce the new RODI water to the tank. let me know if this is not correct.
6atoinlastchamber.jpg
this will have to do for now.(ATO Container)
7atobucket.jpg

As i journey on, no matter how far or long i continue this hobby, I will never go on without these. (will add 2nd mp10wes very soon)
9buddies.jpg

cycling.
10tankshot.jpg
FTS
10amultichiplightfts.jpg
SIDE SHOT
11sideshot.jpg
forgive the mess.. future plans in the works for building a side cabinet to house all my electrical equipment. My stand is not compatible with any electrics due to high levels of humidity.
12cornershot.jpg

always was a sucker for top light shots. (supplement leds)
13leds.jpg
multichip 50watt
14multichipled1.jpg

overflow box which i am more than happy with. maybe upgraded plumbing with ball valves are in my future plans. drain speed is rated for maximum 1000gph and im most likely pushing out half if not less, which makes sense why its so quiet.
15overflowbox.jpg

NEXT DAY so clean and so fresh! with sup lights. B)
15asupplementlgiths.jpg

FTS
16fts.jpg
FTS with Hi multi. These lights are starting to really grow on me. It penetrates really deep to the sandbed and almost identical to a halide. quality could have been better but the built in timer and wireless remote makes up for it.
17fts2.jpg

18fts3.jpg

really loving it.
19.jpg

update: Unfortunately, I was cycling with a huma trigger. (didnt know it was bad.. wtf!) So i took him out and started cycling with just the lights on. My light schdule is 8 hours 1 hour of supplements before the high multi chip led runs for 6 hours and an hour more of sup lights. Diatoms came and went on my 6th week, so maybe i can say its safe to say cycling is over? I will test perams this weekend.

Future plans:

My overall goal is to have a predominant SPS tank with maybe 1 or 2 fish at most. However the funding for this project is not all there. I want to add a calcium reactor/C02 system and eventually get a controller. Until then my plans are to mess around with LPS, ZOA's and other soft corals while i dose daily(maybe pick up a doser. let me know what you guys think.

questions:

Is my filtration okay?
is there any immediate problems?
whats my next step? what do i test for? ca? mg? alk? ph? nitrate? phosphate?
when should i add my CUC? and what should i get?
also my water level in my display is a little low for my liking. what can i do to raise it?

Edited by nano420

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JR!

very sick. cant wait for more.

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rb1685

Is this the CadLights 50gal?

 

Purdy. B)

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chachew

Nice setup, cant wait for more pics.

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thehobdenmarina

love the scape, lots of great shelf pieces there! good for lots of corals!! Very nice thus far!

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Deleted User 4

lolol @ the ducky... You're really going to use that as a thermometer??? ahah

 

Very nice tank though. I am following this thread.

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Jessy-Ray

Whoa man this is a killer setup

 

Is my filtration okay?

Looks great to me, Where do you run the CPE and purigen (just curious).I am clueless when it comes to biopellet reactors so no help in that dept

 

Is there any immediate problems?

I don't see any, good you got the trigger out of there.

 

whats my next step? what do i test for? ca? mg? alk? ph? nitrate? phosphate?

Cal and Alk etc is probably unnecessary at the moment as you don't have anything consuming it

 

when should i add my CUC? and what should i get?

If the cycle is over then CUC is next step, head to Reef cleaners

 

also my water level in my display is a little low for my liking. what can i do to raise it?

No idea :lol:

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NanoTopia

Nice!

 

Are you seeding the tank with MB7 or equivalent bacteria product?

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Finding Paulo
very sick. cant wait for more.
Is this the CadLights 50gal?

 

Purdy. B)

Nice setup, cant wait for more pics.
love the scape, lots of great shelf pieces there! good for lots of corals!! Very nice thus far!

 

thanks guys! your support is much appreciated. :happydance:

and yes its their artisan 2 series. (minor changes but needed from their frist)

 

lolol @ the ducky... You're really going to use that as a thermometer??? ahah

 

Very nice tank though. I am following this thread.

 

HAHA! im gona have to lose it when this tank gets more serious. but for now, that ducks the man!

 

Whoa man this is a killer setup

 

Is my filtration okay?

Looks great to me, Where do you run the CPE and purigen (just curious).I am clueless when it comes to biopellet reactors so no help in that dept

 

Is there any immediate problems?

I don't see any, good you got the trigger out of there.

 

whats my next step? what do i test for? ca? mg? alk? ph? nitrate? phosphate?

Cal and Alk etc is probably unnecessary at the moment as you don't have anything consuming it

 

when should i add my CUC? and what should i get?

If the cycle is over then CUC is next step, head to Reef cleaners

 

also my water level in my display is a little low for my liking. what can i do to raise it?

No idea :lol:

 

thank you!

im currently running the carbon and purigen in my 3rd chamber. just always did it that way. idk i think my logic was that since chemipure helps make the water crystal clear i'd put it next to the return pump. and purigen same concept but to purify the water. Ill look into reef cleaners, thanks for the tip. As for the water level in the display .. im gonna raise the dorso pipe an inch and see if that does anything.

 

 

Nice!

 

Are you seeding the tank with MB7 or equivalent bacteria product?

 

sorry, whats MB7, never heard of it.

 

 

question:

what supplements should i start adding? (keeping in mind i want this to be a SPS tank)

 

im trying to order my test kits from ELOS.. which ones do i need?

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n4turalst

I like the camera you're using.

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uglyfish

I'm running a very similar setup with the cadlight biopellet reactor.

 

MB7 is Microbacter7 made by Brightwell Aquatics, a probiotic supplement to help seed the biopellets. I used it on my tank and it helped - not necessary, but speeds it up a bit. The live rock you have will do fine.

 

I wouldn't run purigen with the biopellet reactor. Purigen removes nitrogenous waste which is required by the biopellets to work. If you use purigen with biopellets, your phosphate levels should theoretically climb higher than without purigen.

 

Here's a discussion on biopellets and phosphate reduction:

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=305892

 

Your rockscaping looks fantastic so far - this is going to be a nice tank. Good luck.

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Keithrett

Nice setup, I actually have one of the original 50G artisan cubes. (Great tank) Love they way they changed the design of the overflow box, looks much more elegant than the previous models. Good luck with the build.

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Lawnman

Is that a cadlights sump?

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nickjqz

Looks great! Make sure that you secure your Vortechs with the provided stick tabs and such, wouldn't want it to fall and break anything. :)

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Finding Paulo
I like the camera you're using.

Is David asking for it? haha

 

Nice setup, I actually have one of the original 50G artisan cubes. (Great tank) Love they way they changed the design of the overflow box, looks much more elegant than the previous models. Good luck with the build.

Thanks man! yeah i love their tanks. which return pump are you using?? do you have a thread?

 

Is that a cadlights sump?

yupp its a 18g sump from cadlights. thinking about making one 2.5 inches bigger so i can have a little more breathing room with the sumps and skimmers. but i would have to take out the cabinets to fit it in.

 

Looks great! Make sure that you secure your Vortechs with the provided stick tabs and such, wouldn't want it to fall and break anything. :)

dude! thanks thats a good tip. never thought of that. the dry side is pretty heavy, i can see it destroying some stuff.

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Finding Paulo
I'm running a very similar setup with the cadlight biopellet reactor.

 

MB7 is Microbacter7 made by Brightwell Aquatics, a probiotic supplement to help seed the biopellets. I used it on my tank and it helped - not necessary, but speeds it up a bit. The live rock you have will do fine.

 

I wouldn't run purigen with the biopellet reactor. Purigen removes nitrogenous waste which is required by the biopellets to work. If you use purigen with biopellets, your phosphate levels should theoretically climb higher than without purigen.

 

Here's a discussion on biopellets and phosphate reduction:

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=305892

 

Your rockscaping looks fantastic so far - this is going to be a nice tank. Good luck.

 

it says the theory is that no3 is reduced to the point where po4 reduction stops. The Redfield ratios state that consumption of no3 to po4 is 16:1. If you don't have a 16:1 no3:po4 ratio, po4 reduction stops. And once no3 is depleted, po4 will rise. And until the ratio is corrected, po4 will continue to rise.

 

is it because its too good and just depletes everything?? how are you monitoring your reactor. how do you know/figure-out where to set the reactor's flow to control how much nitrate it removes. where do i keep my nitrate level? i guess im taking the purigen out when I get home.

Edited by nano420

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Keithrett
Thanks man! yeah i love their tanks. which return pump are you using?? do you have a thread?

 

I decided to use a mag 5 as my return pump. I never started a thread for this tank like I originally planned, but here is a recent photo.

 

IMG_5463.jpg

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Finding Paulo
I decided to use a mag 5 as my return pump. I never started a thread for this tank like I originally planned, but here is a recent photo.

 

IMG_5463.jpg

 

dudddde. i wish you had really started a thread! your tank is very similar to how i want mine to be. GOOD JOB man super nice.

 

questions:

Hey man, Are you running 4 mp10s????

Any particular reason on why you didnt go with a mag 7?

pics of the sump?

what supplements are you adding and what test kits do you have?

Also are you dosing for CAL or do you have a calcium reactor?

 

sorry for attacking you with questions, just seems you are the appropriate person to ask.

Edited by nano420

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JR!

looks like 3 mp10s and a mp40 lol. very well done man.

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Keithrett
dudddde. i wish you had really started a thread! your tank is very similar to how i want mine to be. GOOD JOB man super nice.

 

questions:

Hey man, Are you running 4 mp10s????

Any particular reason on why you didnt go with a mag 7?

pics of the sump?

what supplements are you adding and what test kits do you have?

Also are you dosing for CAL or do you have a calcium reactor?

 

sorry for attacking you with questions, just seems you are the appropriate person to ask.

 

Thanks

Jrmiller is correct, 3 mp10s and a mp40. No particular reason I chose the mag 5, I think a friend recommended that I try the mag 5 so I just went ahead and ordered one. I don't have any pictures of the sump at the moment but I can PM/ post a picture soon. I'm running a ZEOvit set-up so I dose the standard ZEO products. (ZEOstart, bac, coral snow, etc) I use a Hanna meter to test my alkalinity and a Salifert kit to test my calcium. (thats about all I test for) I dose ESV B-Ionic two part through BRS dosing pumps. No worries about the questions, I don't mind at all.

 

looks like 3 mp10s and a mp40 lol. very well done man.

 

Thanks

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Finding Paulo
Thanks

Jrmiller is correct, 3 mp10s and a mp40. No particular reason I chose the mag 5, I think a friend recommended that I try the mag 5 so I just went ahead and ordered one. I don't have any pictures of the sump at the moment but I can PM/ post a picture soon. I'm running a ZEOvit set-up so I dose the standard ZEO products. (ZEOstart, bac, coral snow, etc) I use a Hanna meter to test my alkalinity and a Salifert kit to test my calcium. (thats about all I test for) I dose ESV B-Ionic two part through BRS dosing pumps. No worries about the questions, I don't mind at all.

 

 

 

Thanks

 

That's seriously some crazy stuff man. yeah cant wait for the pics! Nice, i still havent made up my mind about dosing or calcium reactor. How are the PH levels with dosing and how do you take care of it?

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albertthiel

My 50G CUBE

 

Hello fellow reefers!

 

I remember picking up my 12g NC and joining this forum a little over a year ago knowing only two things, which was that it was saltwater and that i needed something called live rocks. Since then, with much research and generous help of fellow members, i was able to start and maintain a successful cube. Like every addiction it only grew bigger and now here i am with my new 50!!!

 

please do not hesitate to call out any annoying mistakes as i will take any advice given. Thanks for the never ending help!

 

Tank : 24x24x20h

  • 3 side starphire glass
  • 2 inch sand bed
  • 40 lbs live rocks

Sump : 18G with refugium (will have to do for now)

  • 1st chamber - 1150 conic skimmer and Conic bio reactor
  • 2nd chamber - refugium (sandbed and chaeto)
  • 3rd chamber - 495GPH return (will upgrade to tunze 1073), chemipure/purigen

Lighting :

  • 50Watt multi-chip LED
  • 12 - 1watt led for supplement lighting

Equipment :

  • MP10Wes (need one more)
  • piranha mag float
  • JBJ ATO
  • Aqua Euro 1/10 hp Chiller

Edited by albertthiel

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Finding Paulo
That is a very nice set up for sure and looks good ...

 

Let me read the rest of the posts .... a little later today probably ...

 

So far though that looks like an absolutely super set up ... how is it doing now ?

 

Nice scaping so far .. .are you adding more rock and if so what type ...

 

Lots of pump action in there it looks to me ... must be like a tornado in there ... how many turnovers do you think you are getting ?

 

 

Albert

 

Thank you! its good right now i still haven't added any live stocks. just 3 hermit crabs that I'm debating on keeping. Diatoms seems to have made its way back. or does it only come and go once? it can be algae i don't know.

 

here are some pics (diatoms or algae?)

DSC01618.jpg

 

DSC01617.jpg

 

DSC01616.jpg

 

i think I'm going to add an additional 10 lbs of fiji or man made rocks to fill the tank up. How do i measure my turnover rate? i have a 495 gph return pump, a skimmer with a 375 gph pump, and my reactor does 240gph. its actually all looking really calm.

 

any ideas on what supplements? and test kits?

Edited by nano420

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albertthiel
Thank you Albert ! it's good right now i still haven't added any live stocks. Just have 3 hermit crabs that I'm debating on keeping.

 

Diatoms seems to have made their way back, or does it only come and go once? it can be algae i don't know.

 

Here are some pics (diatoms or algae?)

 

DSC01618.jpg

 

DSC01617.jpg

 

DSC01616.jpg

 

i think I'm going to add an additional 10 lbs of fiji or man made rocks to fill the tank up. How do i measure my turnover rate? i have a 495 gph return pump, a skimmer with a 375 gph pump, and my reactor does 240gph. its actually all looking really calm.

 

Any ideas on what supplements? and test kits?

 

Nano420 ... for recommendations on the diatoms and what to add, I think I covered that in my first reply. I also suggested what test kits you should have.

 

As to the circulation (turnovers of the tank) since your skimmer and other equipment is in the sump or hooked up to it, the only turnover you are getting is from that pump that pushes the water back to your tank from the sump.

 

If that pump is aged at 495 GPH (I guess at zero feet of head), then the amount of water that actually gets pushed back to the tank is going to be a lot lower depending on how high the pump has to push the water.

 

Not sure if the instructions you got indicate what the output was a say 4 feet but IMO that is probably a lot less than 495 GPH, maybe as low as 370 to max of 400 gallons per hour.

 

400 divided by the number of gallons of water in the tank will give you the turnover rate ...

 

Yes you can add more rock but you will need to be careful what you add as it there are lots of life forms on there some may die off and that is going to create another cycle, probably not a high level one but a cycle nevertheless, so you will need to test the water for ammonia and nitrite after you add the rock as you do not want to have what is now in the tank die-off and pollute the water again ...

 

You suggested totally dead rock and that would be an option but do not just add any rock, it should be dead coral pieces as they will not suddenly alter the water chemistry due to what they leach out. You can probably find that kind at any LFS ... do not use artificial stuff like what is sold at some of the chain pet stores as you never know what is in it and where it came from.

 

I have known hobbyists who bought such artificial rock and had issues and I have also known hobbyists who bought real dead coral rock but that came from tanks that had been treated with chemicals (e.g. copper) and those will leach back into the water. So buy from a reputable store and make sure that the rock you buy was to used in tanks that were treated with copper or other additives that could cause harm.

 

Run GAC in the sump, as I assume you will. You have that resin reactor and I would not start using that till everything has stabilized and until all your levels are at the desired levels.

 

Whether to add a carbon reactor as you were asking depends on the calcium demand of the tank and whether water changes using a good quality salt can maintain the desired Ca++ levels. If they can then you may not need one right now, but you may later when you have more animals in the tank and when the calcium demand increases and the water changes cannot maintain that level.

 

I know this is a long message and that you may have more questions so feel free to post them here and I will reply and suspect others will as well.

 

Hopefully I did not confuse you with all the info ... Good luck and let us know how things are progressing and please go to my thread as well as I posted some more information there for you as well so others can respond to all your questions too ... If you have other questions please post them there. Thanks.

 

Albert

 

------------------------------

 

Nano420 ... for recommendations on the diatoms and what to add, I think I covered that in my first reply. I also suggested what test kits you should have.

 

As to the circulation (turnovers of the tank) since your skimmer and other equipment is in the sump or hooked up to it, the only turnover you are getting is from that pump that pushes the water back to your tank from the sump.

 

If that pump is aged at 495 GPH (I guess at zero feet of head), then the amount of water that actually gets pushed back to the tank is going to be a lot lower depending on how high the pump has to push the water.

 

Not sure if the instructions you got indicate what the output was a say 4 feet but IMO that is probably a lot less than 495 GPH, maybe as low as 370 to max of 400 gallons per hour.

 

400 divided by the number of gallons of water in the tank will give you the turnover rate ...

 

Yes you can add more rock but you will need to be careful what you add as it there are lots of life forms on there some may die off and that is going to create another cycle, probably not a high level one but a cycle nevertheless, so you will need to test the water for ammonia and nitrite after you add the rock as you do not want to have what is now in the tank die-off and pollute the water again ...

 

You suggested totally dead rock and that would be an option but do not just add any rock, it should be dead coral pieces as they will not suddenly alter the water chemistry due to what they leach out. You can probably find that kind at any LFS ... do not use artificial stuff like what is sold at some of the chain pet stores as you never know what is in it and where it came from.

 

I have known hobbyists who bought such artificial rock and had issues and I have also known hobbyists who bought real dead coral rock but that came from tanks that had been treated with chemicals (e.g. copper) and those will leach back into the water. So buy from a reputable store and make sure that the rock you buy was to used in tanks that were treated with copper or other additives that could cause harm.

 

Run GAC in the sump, as I assume you will. You have that resin reactor and I would not start using that till everything has stabilized and until all your levels are at the desired levels.

 

Whether to add a carbon reactor as you were asking depends on the calcium demand of the tank and whether water changes using a good quality salt can maintain the desired Ca++ levels. If they can then you may not need one right now, but you may later when you have more animals in the tank and when the calcium demand increases and the water changes cannot maintain that level.

 

I know this is a long message and that you may have more questions so feel free to post them here and I will reply and suspect others will as well. Check my answers on my thread as well Nano420

 

Hopefully I did not confuse you with all the info ... Good luck and let us know how things are progressing

 

Albert

Edited by albertthiel

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albertthiel
Nano420 ...

 

There are two sets of answers on my thread ... please go there as well. Thanks.

********************************************

Edited by albertthiel

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