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Reefmaster1996

How to get tank breed ocelaris clowns to host anemone?

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jedimasterben
A lot of changes in a short period of time would indeed create reactions you may not expect but if the anemone has been looking sort of like that for weeks then I wonder if you need to figure out whether the lighting and the water flow are affecting it ... is it feeing well ?

 

If it packed with zooxanthellae then that would indicate that the light is probably the right one although one cannot be sure .. there must be something else going on for it not to get back to its normal look.

 

Hopefully this will not last much longer

 

Albert

I first purchased the anemone in early January. It was a beautiful brown color that shone green with purple tips in light. Within one week it had expelled at least 80% of its zooxanthellae and turned white with purple tips. Over the next three months, I fed it daily with either 1/4 of a silverside or with mysis when I was feeding my fish. My tank went through several nitrate spikes before I began carbon dosing to reduce it and keep it low, and this definitely stressed it out, but after deflating for a few days (much to my old clowns' dismay), it would perk back up and inflate fully. Roughly around April it began gaining color, this time much more green than brown, and as of a couple of weeks ago, it was always fully inflated and been fully-colored, as well. Then I started messing with my lighting, moving it, blowing some LEDs, turning off some strings, moving them off the tank completely, moving a powerhead to a place he didn't like and he started walking for the first time since I placed him on his rock in January, and then switching tanks last night. I'd be pretty mad, too, if I was him. He will bounce back, I am sure of it. :)

 

He will bounce back, though.

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Reefmaster1996
I first purchased the anemone in early January. It was a beautiful brown color that shone green with purple tips in light. Within one week it had expelled at least 80% of its zooxanthellae and turned white with purple tips. Over the next three months, I fed it daily with either 1/4 of a silverside or with mysis when I was feeding my fish. My tank went through several nitrate spikes before I began carbon dosing to reduce it and keep it low, and this definitely stressed it out, but after deflating for a few days (much to my old clowns' dismay), it would perk back up and inflate fully. Roughly around April it began gaining color, this time much more green than brown, and as of a couple of weeks ago, it was always fully inflated and been fully-colored, as well. Then I started messing with my lighting, moving it, blowing some LEDs, turning off some strings, moving them off the tank completely, moving a powerhead to a place he didn't like and he started walking for the first time since I placed him on his rock in January, and then switching tanks last night. I'd be pretty mad, too, if I was him. He will bounce back, I am sure of it. :)

 

He will bounce back, though.

Yeah the anemone doesn't look like its dying, it is firmly attached to the rock and the tentacles are not completely deflated just retracted and very small, it is bouncing back and getting better latlely, it seemed to finish pooping and today the poop seamed like the regular color brown instead of white. The clownfish are tending to her again and they are removing the poop that got stuck to her tentacles and stimulating her to get better to and it seems to be working.

 

 

Yeah the anemone doesn't look like its dying, it is firmly attached to the rock and the tentacles are not completely deflated just retracted and very small, it is bouncing back and getting better latlely, it seemed to finish pooping and today the poop seamed like the regular color brown instead of white. The clownfish are tending to her again and they are removing the poop that got stuck to her tentacles and stimulating her to get better to and it seems to be working.

The water nor light where the problem the problem is that I defiantly over feed her ( 3 good sized silver sized) in a little less than a week.

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Reefmaster1996
Yeah the anemone doesn't look like its dying, it is firmly attached to the rock and the tentacles are not completely deflated just retracted and very small, it is bouncing back and getting better latlely, it seemed to finish pooping and today the poop seamed like the regular color brown instead of white. The clownfish are tending to her again and they are removing the poop that got stuck to her tentacles and stimulating her to get better to and it seems to be working.

 

 

 

The water nor light where the problem the problem is that I defiantly over feed her ( 3 good sized silver sized) in a little less than a week.

Unfortunately the white stringy stuff was the Internal guts of my beloved anemone, he is dieing so he got thrown away before any damage could be done to the rest of my inhabitants, I will try again in a month after I come back, I will be gone for a week next month so when I come back we will start over, but I will let the anemone be in the tank as the clownfish already know how to host, they just need an anemone. On the other hand I just got a sixline wrasse and a cherub pygmy angel that are currently getting acclimated to my 10 gallon quarintine tank. So we will take this as a learning expierience and an opportunity to improve, also just as a side note this is only my second anemone (both died 1 to a filter intake this to over feeding and unnecessary stress.) and the third time will definatly be the charm .

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jedimasterben

It looked bad so you preemptively threw it out? My anemone has spit out white gunk before - it's still alive and in my tank right now. It does not mean that they are dying.

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thehobdenmarina
Although I am sure everyone who gets clowns and has an anemone would like for it to happen just about instantaneously ... it just does not work that way ... it can take time ... some clowns will develop the immunity rapidly by quickly rubbing themselves against the tentacles of the anemone and then others will take longer so I do not think there is a definitive answer ... unfortunately ...

 

Albert

true and I have clowns with my nem, for almost 1 year, no hosting, even have frogspawns and hammers etc. so dont count on in happening overnight

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Reefmaster1996
true and I have clowns with my nem, for almost 1 year, no hosting, even have frogspawns and hammers etc. so dont count on in happening overnight

Yeah well the anemone wasn't even sticky when I got him which was a rockie mistake, and he would have been fine if I wouldn't have oversees him, he not only spat his Insides out but he also looked like he was slowly melting and was beginning to rip open from the top and a bunch of white stringy guts where coming out of him.

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thehobdenmarina

how olds the tank? I find nems do better in matured tanks (6-12 months +) IME

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albertthiel
how olds the tank? I find nems do better in matured tanks (6-12 months +) IME

 

Yes IME too ... 6-12 months aged tanks is best and will minimize issue with RBTA's and other anemones.

 

Unfortunately I think that often they are put into much younger tanks and have a harder time getting acclimated to a not yet really aged aquarium (of course there are exceptions).

 

Albert

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Reefmaster1996
Yes IME too ... 6-12 months aged tanks is best and will minimize issue with RBTA's and other anemones.

 

Unfortunately I think that often they are put into much younger tanks and have a harder time getting acclimated to a not yet really aged aquarium (of course there are exceptions).

 

Albert

The tank is a 8 month old 20 gallon long, do you think it was splitting from stress or is that a myth, it seemed to be tearing from about 5 mm from the mouth and white stingy insides where coming out, it looked like the second picture on pg 4

 

The tank is a 8 month old 20 gallon long, do you think it was splitting from stress or is that a myth, it seemed to be tearing from about 5 mm (the middle of the head) from the mouth and white stingy insides where coming out, it looked like the second picture on pg 4

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Pickle010

I see you are getting a lot of help here but I just wanted to make a quick point in reference to your thread title. Tank bred has nothing to do with it, most people do not realize that BTA"s are not the natural host of Os or Percs in the wild.

 

Many do take to those nems in our tanks but for others it may take much more time, that is, if they become interested at all. The natural host to a O or Perc is a Heteractis magnifica but we don't traditionally keep these in our tanks. They require turbulant flow, intense lighting and expert care. Not to mention they get huge.

 

So as I mentioned to someone else in another thread - you must understand you are asking the clown to do something it is not hard wired to do so patience and optimal conditions (for both the clown and nem) are requiured.

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Reefmaster1996
I see you are getting a lot of help here but I just wanted to make a quick point in reference to your thread title. Tank bred has nothing to do with it, most people do not realize that BTA"s are not the natural host of Os or Percs in the wild.

 

Many do take to those nems in our tanks but for others it may take much more time, that is, if they become interested at all. The natural host to a O or Perc is a Heteractis magnifica but we don't traditionally keep these in our tanks. They require turbulant flow, intense lighting and expert care. Not to mention they get huge.

 

So as I mentioned to someone else in another thread - you must understand you are asking the clown to do something it is not hard wired to do so patience and optimal conditions (for both the clown and nem) are requiured.

I do realize all of what you said and the point of this thread was to prove that.I just was a little impatient in the beginning but as all is in this hobby we learn from our mistakes and the mistakes of others.

Edited by Reefmaster1996

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Pickle010
I do realize all of what you said and the point of this thread was to prove that.I just was a little impatient in the beginning but as all is in this hobby we learn from our mistakes and the mistakes of others.

 

 

I didn't mean to offend, honestly didn't even read the entire thread... OK.. I only read the title and the couple of posts before mine. There is just a major misconception about tank bred versus wild caught clowns (not that I have anything against the wild caught ones) but I've invested a little bit time learning about the tank bred ones and when I see topics such as yours that helps proliferate the misconception of tank bred clowns I like to help educate people. Nothing personal.

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Reefmaster1996
I didn't mean to offend, honestly didn't even read the entire thread... OK.. I only read the title and the couple of posts before mine. There is just a major misconception about tank bred versus wild caught clowns (not that I have anything against the wild caught ones) but I've invested a little bit time learning about the tank bred ones and when I see topics such as yours that helps proliferate the misconception of tank bred clowns I like to help educate people. Nothing personal.

Oh no offense taken at all I appreciate the fact that there are others like myself who educate others especially beginners on things we have learned and practiced. I have nothing against the wild ones as clownfish what I am against is taking them out of thier natural habitat and putting them In our tanks that's why I try to get as many tank bred and propagated organism as possible when i stocked my tank. I appreciate you trying to breed clownfish too, I am currently hoping that my pair will start breeding soon as they have reached sexual maturity, I want to help stop the exotic wild caught fish trade so that our hobby can become a sustainable resource and so we can protect our reefs for the next generation and so on and so forth.BY THE WAY HOW IS YOUR BREEDING PROJECT GOING?

Edited by Reefmaster1996

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Reefmaster1996
Oh no offense taken at all I appreciate the fact that there are others like myself who educate others especially beginners on things we have learned and practiced. I have nothing against the wild ones as clownfish what I am against is taking them out of thier natural habitat and putting them In our tanks that's why I try to get as many tank bred and propagated organism as possible when i stocked my tank. I appreciate you trying to breed clownfish too, I am currently hoping that my pair will start breeding soon as they have reached sexual maturity, I want to help stop the exotic wild caught fish trade so that our hobby can become a sustainable resource and so we can protect our reefs for the next generation and so on and so forth.BY THE WAY HOW IS YOUR BREEDING PROJECT GOING?

 

Okay guys I have beefed up my filtration system by adding a new to me swc mini hot protein skimmer by the way t is rated for a much bigger tank (90 gallons with the type of bioload i have) than my 20 gal. I also replaced the chemi pure elite.The skimmer is already pulling some nasty junk and I will be getting a RBTA as soon as I get back from my vacation (aug 13th). Also great news guys I just got offered a part time job at the best LFS in town, and they have amazingly nice products (animals) they really know what they are doing and I will start working there when I get back. Hopefully I can get a discount on one of their anemones.

 

Okay guys I have beefed up my filtration system by adding a new to me swc mini hot protein skimmer by the way t is rated for a much bigger tank (90 gallons with the type of bioload i have) than my 20 gal. I also replaced the chemi pure elite.The skimmer is already pulling some nasty junk and I will be getting a RBTA as soon as I get back from my vacation (aug 13th). Also great news guys I just got offered a part time job at the best LFS in town, and they have amazingly nice products (animals) they really know what they are doing and I will start working there when I get back. Hopefully I can get a discount on one of their anemones.

Oh check out my tank and the most updated livestock and equipment.

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enenue
Yes IME too ... 6-12 months aged tanks is best and will minimize issue with RBTA's and other anemones.

 

Unfortunately I think that often they are put into much younger tanks and have a harder time getting acclimated to a not yet really aged aquarium (of course there are exceptions).

 

Albert

 

Could you explain what "aged" means per parameters exactly?

 

Sorry if this has already been explained !

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albertthiel
Could you explain what "aged" means per parameters exactly?

Sorry if this has already been explained !

 

Tank has been running for anywhere between 6 months and a year and everything in the tank is in balance and bacterial colonies have fully developed over that time in the live rock and substrate if any is present is probably the simplest way to explain it.

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enenue
Tank has been running for anywhere between 6 months and a year and everything in the tank is in balance and bacterial colonies have fully developed over that time in the live rock and substrate if any is present is probably the simplest way to explain it.

 

 

Makes sense thanks!! Been considering a BTA for my biocube 14 (LED upgraded) but after much thought, I think Im going to pass for now. Still wanting a clam though (I know, prob a bad idea hehe)

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albertthiel
Makes sense thanks!! Been considering a BTA for my biocube 14 (LED upgraded) but after much thought, I think Im going to pass for now. Still wanting a clam though (I know, prob a bad idea hehe)

 

A Clam in a 14 gallon tank may indeed not be the best choice, but there are some hobbyists who keep small ones in them.

 

The key when getting Clams of course is to make sure that they are "not diseased, do not have pinched mantle (check the forum on clams that Zeph runs for a lot more information), and also that you do not see anything that looks parasitic attached to its shell", e.g. sponges, or tiny snails, or for that matter anything else. The "cleaner" the shell itself is the better. But as I said visit Zeph's threads (there are several) on Clams and read up as much as you can before getting one, if you plan to do so after all.

 

Clams are usually pricey, and harder to keep than other life forms we have in our tanks, so my suggestion for you if you plan on getting one, is to learn as much as you can about the various Tridacnid clams that are around for sale in the Trade.

 

On the BTA ... I agree. Stay away from it. Anemones in general are not that easy to keep healthy for long periods of time and often come in damaged and as a result slowly deteriorate and do not make it.

 

If you get a small one, and there are some, make sure that you see it first, watch how it is taken out of the holding tank at an LFS (should be without force so the foot or base does not get injured). I should just let go of whatever it is attached to by itself.

 

If you decide on an anemone, there are many choices, including smaller ones, and you may want to do some research before deciding on what type to get.

 

You can also post questions to my thread if you wish.

 

Albert

Edited by albertthiel

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Reefmaster1996
A Clam in a 14 gallon tank may indeed not be the best choice, but there are some hobbyists who keep small ones in them.

 

The key when getting Clams of course is to make sure that they are "not diseased, do not have pinched mantle (check the forum on clams that Zeph runs for a lot more information), and also that you do not see anything that looks parasitic attached to its shell", e.g. sponges, or tiny snails, or for that matter anything else. The "cleaner" the shell itself is the better. But as I said visit Zeph's threads (there are several) on Clams and read up as much as you can before getting one, if you plan to do so after all.

 

Clams are usually pricey, and harder to keep than other life forms we have in our tanks, so my suggestion for you if you plan on getting one, is to learn as much as you can about the various Tridacnid clams that are around for sale in the Trade.

 

On the BTA ... I agree. Stay away from it. Anemones in general are not that easy to keep healthy for long periods of time and often come in damaged and as a result slowly deteriorate and do not make it.

 

If you get a small one, and there are some, make sure that you see it first, watch how it is taken out of the holding tank at an LFS (should be without force so the foot or base does not get injured). I should just let go of whatever it is attached to by itself.

 

If you decide on an anemone, there are many choices, including smaller ones, and you may want to do some research before deciding on what type to get.

 

You can also post questions to my thread if you wish.

 

Albert

 

Okay guys just got back last night and the skimmer created really thick skimate, I was gone for ten days and everybody is fine and the tank looks better than ever. I will probably get the anemone in a couple of weeks.

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