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Seabass's In-wall 100 Gallon

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jedimasterben

Unfortunately, the female ports on one of my old canisters is leaking, so the setup will be delayed until the new one arrives.

Good. This build was getting together way too quickly. :lol:

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seabass

I went shopping for plumbing. Online shopping would have been so much easier (parts were in the wrong bin, they didn't have enough inventory, and it was organized in a seemingly random fashion). Yeah it was nice to visualize it in person; but still, what a pain. I like to use a lot of threaded fittings to take things apart if needed.

 

Since the back faces me, I routed the plumbing away from me (toward the wall/front).

 

052414a.jpg

3/4" return system. I plan on using a Mag 9.5 for the pump. Originally I was going to use a couple Cepex Ball Valves (which also work as unions), but BRS didn't have two 1 1/4" valves in stock. I figure that I'd have them wide open anyway, so I think unions will work just fine. If the flow is more than I want, I will switch to a Mag 7 (but I doubt that will be needed, especially since I'll be powering a reactor as well).

 

I'll use the 1" flexible tubing to help reduce vibrations from the pump.

 

052414b.jpg

Mostly a 1 1/4" drain system. The bulkheads are 1 1/2", but a 1 1/2" union fit really tight in the stand. The plumbing is pretty close against the stand so even a 1 1/2" elbow can't twist off. I really wanted to be able to service any part of the plumbing without having to cut anything apart (so the plumbing would have to have to twist off of the bulkheads, which requires a union), so I chose to downsize to a 1 1/4" union.

 

I used a 1 1/2" tee which is rated for more flow. This should be enough to handle the flow of a Mag 9.5 under pressure (along with the reactor). I figure that I can leave the 1 1/2" plumbing above the bulkhead. I know that this isn't an ideal setup (with all the 90° elbows and restricted sized plumbing), but I think it will still work.

 

052414c.jpg

Even though I'm over 6' tall, I still needed to get a step stool to access the full tank. It shouldn't be too bad, but I'm guessing that this tank will be a little more of a maintenance hassle than I'm used to.

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seabass

I hooked up my upgraded RO/DI. I followed AZDesertRat's advice and replaced the two old carbon stages for one, and replaced the previous DI stage for two (SpectraPure's MaxCap Hi Capacity filters, and 99% Rejection SpectraSelect Plus™ 90-GPD RO Membrane).
061714a.jpg
Yeah I could tighten up the tubing (I had it looking very clean before), but it seemed like more of a hassle working with it.

 

Instead of just using a saddle valve (which can cross connect the water supply with the sewer). I added another drain and air gap.
061714b.jpg
Yep, that's my plumbing.

 

Mr. Drain Air Gap:
061714c.jpg

 

Installed:
061714d.jpg

 

Completed system:
061714e.jpg

The tee above the air gap is for an emergency overflow drain on my storage tank (in case the float valve doesn't shut off the supply completely). And oh yeah, I added a backsplash for the sink.

 

Tap water: 188ppm TDS (per HM TDS-3 hand held meter)

Post RO: 2ppm (per HM DM-2 dual in-line monitor), appoximately 99% rejection rate

Post MaxCap DI stage: 0ppm (per HM DM-2 dual in-line monitor)

Post SilicaBuster DI stage: 0ppm (per HM TDS-3 hand held meter)

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Mr. Microscope

And a power strip with individual switches to shut off pumps and whatnot during maintenance.

051214d.jpg

 

I'll be putting the tank on the stand this week. I know... Whoa... Slow down!!!

Awesome! Where'd you find this?
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seabass

Awesome! Where'd you find this?

Amazon

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seabass

New toy:

061814a.jpg

 

This delivery pump will pressurize the line going to my ATO. I'll have a NC solenoid which will prevent water from flowing except for 1 or 2 minutes a day. I'll also use a switch to kill power to the solenoid, in order to shut it off sooner (at the proper water level). I was planning on using a float switch for this, but now I'm thinking I should use a pressure switch instead. I might go one step further and use a float valve as an emergency shut off.

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tibbsy07

Dude, if you keep moving this quickly, you're going to crash the tank. Too much too fast :P

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jedimasterben

hay.

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jedimasterben

Whoa whoa, slow down there, partner. Don't rush things.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

:lol:;)

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seabass

I washed 160lbs of Caribsea Fiji Pink, then let it dry so that I could grade it. I also graded 15lbs of Special Grade. The intent was to remove the finer grains (which could get suspended more easily, and scratch the acrylic when cleaning). I got the Special Grade more to compare it, but I like how its smaller grains (of which, about 7 lbs of it passed through the 2mm sieve) add a bit more texture to the mix.

 

081114a.jpg

 

The result:

081114b.jpg

  • I used the 3mm mesh screen to discard any large chunks.
  • Then I used the 2mm mesh to separate and collect the larger grains (in the small container), which I'll use to make some artificial rock. Most of this came from the Special Grade sand.
  • Finally I used the 0.5mm screen to sift out the sugar sized grains (top left), which I'll use for a RDSB. I'll use the remaining grains (top right) for this tank. It should give me a substrate that's at least an inch deep.
I was surprised that the mesh sizes didn't seem to correspond to the reported grain sizes of the Caribsea sand. I assume that the mesh size is the distance between center (not factoring in the thickness of the wire), and the grain size is the diameter of the grains. This would explain how a 2mm soil sieve would sift out about half of the Special Grade (which should be 1 to 2mm).

 

On the other hand, a little more than half of the (expired) Fiji Pink live sand (which should be 0.5 to 1.5mm) passed through the 0.5mm sieve. This makes me wonder if the grain size shrunk (dissolved) by being packaged in water for years. I'll have to test that with some dry Fiji Pink some day.

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1.0reef

This message was brought to you by:


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Dramad1

Awesome build. I like how you are taking your time, plenty of times for taking a break and plenty of time to knock another item off the list. Cant wait to see this tank wet.

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Justind823

Any updates?

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seabass

Oh crap... busted.

 

I keep seeing fish at Diver's Den that I want, but don't pull the trigger 'cause I'm not ready yet. I just have to buckle down and get it done.

 

Thanks for checking! It won't be long.

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JDH

That's what you said two years ago ... :lol:

 

We're all pumped to see this! I hear you though. Nothing like starting a tank in the fall/winter.

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Coolhandreefer


Hey, any updates? :)

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seabass

011915a.jpg

I bought this anemone last week for it.

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seabass

Installing the sump baffle.

 

012815a.jpg

I had to sand down the corners to account for the silicone bead on the bottom pane.

 

012815b.jpg

Some tape to make lining up the baffle, and cleanup easier.

 

012815c.jpg

Done.

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slowngreen

846-1.jpg

 

 

LOL. Glad to see some progress dude. Looks like your sump is gonna be a very clean build.

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seabass

Looks like your sump is gonna be a very clean build.

I follow the KISS (keep is simple seabass) rule.

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ajmckay

Nice! I like the sanding down of the corner! I did that with my sump but I just used an angle grinder with a diamond blade and cut it off in a triangle. Wasn't as pretty tho.

 

Nice tape job also

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jedimasterben

Two_Weeks_Later.PNG

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seabass

Haha, do you think the silicone is fully cured yet?

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seabass

Lighting hanger:

030315a.jpg

 

Adjustable eye bolts (for different light fixtures):

030315b.jpg

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NanoFever

Is there a light for those hangers? Any updates?

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