Don't do water changes while cycling a tank! MYTH?

[Tamberav]

Look at my data again: http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/206500-part-2-water-changes-during-the-cycle/

 

In the container that I performed 25% water changes each day, the ammonia level was not substantially reduced compared to the container that received no water changes at all (and the ammonia peaked at the same level). Water changes only temporarily lowered the ammonia level (by the percentage of the water change). However, ammonia levels quickly returned to their previous level or continued to increase until the nitrifying bacteria became established. Plus, ammonia levels remained high for longer in the container that received daily water changes.

 

Obviously water changes lowered nitrate levels. Plus they lowered the peak level of nitrite. However, we aren't as interested in these levels as their toxicity is much less than for ammonia.

 

A better method to soften the cycle would be to introduce a working biofilter, to help process the ammonia as it's produced. Another method would be to introduce a nitrifying bacteria culture (like Dr.Tim's One and Only) to raise bacteria populations.

 

Your tests don't fit every situation. I agree, don't do water changes on dry rock or "live" bagged sand and it probably isn't needed for most live rock from a LFS.

 

However, I was pointing out that it depends on the situation and what type of rock a person is starting with and their goals. Uncured rock straight from the ocean already has a biofilter, the goal is to keep all the hitchiker corals/clams, ect alive until the decaying organics can be removed or processed, not build a biofilter. The biofilter is already there but overwhelmed.

 

I kept the uncured rock in a small container to make large water changes quick/easy and I scrubbed/removed anything decaying between every change.

[Eisernes]

 

My ammonia was at 8ppm in the beginning but now is at .25ppm. Could my ammonia spiking this high in the beginning have cause such a long cycle?

Is your ammonia reading 0.25 on an API kit? If so it is probably 0. API Ammonia kits don't really show the 0 color when testing saltwater. Go to your LFS and get a second opinion.

[seabass]

Uncured rock straight from the ocean already has a biofilter, the goal is to keep all the hitchiker corals/clams, ect alive until the decaying organics can be removed or processed, not build a biofilter. The biofilter is already there but overwhelmed.

I agree, the biofilter gets overwhelmed. That's why I suggested introducing another established biofilter to help, and/or to add a nitrifying bacteria culture. I'm just saying that partial water changes aren't that effective in keeping the ammonia level down.

[Sunstar]

Okay, I am having problematic hair algea issues. So I am working on a Plan B and a Plan C.

 

Plan B is being a pain in the ass to accieve because weather prevents me from getting to the LFS to get snail clean up crew.

 

Plan C. will invovle a Nuke. The dust and diatom algae do not bother me, its that hair that wasnts to be all over the rocks. And I can't seem to get rid of it because it's on the sand too. So I have dead rock and dead sand in a tank with uncontaminated salt water and mysis shrimp rotting up a storm to start this cycle. I am glad the stink is down a bit because I was a hair from dumping that water.

 

Should I be changing the water in this tank? At all? Or should i let the rot merrily rot. I hav eusually used live rock - and I may still get osme in future, but for now, I am getting a restart started.

 

QUestion is, will moving the sand be detrimetnal? or should I stir it up periodically?

 

I put a selection of rock in and fragments.