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Innovative Marine Aquariums

1 LED 20W CW+RB


acabgd

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What you've got there, is a cheap version of the Kessil, and likely if you put the two side by side color would be very similiar along with PAR.

 

I like how they added the phosphor coating in a single strip over the array. Leave it to the Chinese to be practical :-)

 

I really wish they'd use a much warmer phosphor though. The benefit of doing it this way is perfectly smooth color blending.

Thanks for the heads up, I was not aware of Kessil at all. Tbh I was very sceptical about these Chinese "high power" LEDs, but it turns out they're not a bad solution at all - as you've said "Leave it to the Chinese to be practical".

 

There is also a lot of variety and with the prices being so low it allows for a lot of experimentation.

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FYI, another member did a small build using similar LEDs about a year ago. Still going and pretty happy with it. Heres the link for it if interested.

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Thanks for the link, an interesting read. Just confirms that these things really work, depending on what you really need. For me, the real diferrence is the combo-color, having CoolWhite and RoyalBlue on one dye, all in one LED.

 

And as the guy in the other thread showed, PAR readings are pretty good as well.

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One question though, on this array are the blues and whites powered separately for independent dimming?

Heres some "eBay" combos i just thought up but kinda @$$ backwards but in my opinion works the same way but backwards. constant current whites with 2-1 ratio dimmable blues. depending on the outcome of the par ratings and the size of your tank.

1-2g pico

10W Dimmable LED Driver

wired to

10W 455-457nm Royal Blue

optional Optics:

60° Lens with Base for 10W Led

90° Lens with Base for 10W Led

with

(2-3)x3 W LED constant current driver

wired to (optional color combo 1 white 1 warm white with a spare ea.)

2pcs 3W White

2pcs 3W Warm white

 

Small setup 3-5 mabe 10g. For some reason eBay doesnt have 20w dimmable soooo...

20W Led Driver (w/ Over Heat Protection)

Wired to

EPISTAR 20W 445nm Royal Blue

10W Dimmable LED Driver (might as well go dimmale driver for the same price)

Wired to one of the following per prefferance: 10W 10000K

10W 16000K

10W 20000K

 

Medium 10g to possibly 20g high

50w dimmabe driver

Wired to

EPISTAR 50W 445nm Royal Blue

Optional optics:

60° Lens with Reflector for 50-100W

90° Lens with Base for 20-50W (I think it only fits the 50-100w)

20W Led Driver (w/ Over Heat Protection)

EPISTAR 20W 20000K

20W 16000K

EPISTAR 20W 14000K

EPISTAR 20W 10000K

 

Extra large Hybrid led only

 

100W Dimmable

100W Super Actinic Blue

EPISTAR 100W Super Actinic Blue Hybrid Led

60 Lens with Reflector for 50-100W

 

Other drivers available for longer/ breeder tanks that require more width than spotlight effect (single driver that can drive multi leds)

 

5 x 10W Dimmable LED Driver

 

5 x 20W LED Dimmable Driver

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I am in no way saying that these will work or even look good. I thought I would share the compiled info i researched and hopefully spark some ideas... I just posted this at 2:30 am my time half asleep so let me know if something seems off... :blink:

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Thanks porky for the links and potential options regarding tank sizes.

 

I'm looking for a cheap way to light my 40b to replace an out of spectrum 250w MH.

 

I'm seriously considering these 20w lights because they have optics available, they look to be pretty efficient, and because the dies are so close together it should emit a pretty even spectrum light.

 

I also noticed that this supplier also sells some unique optics, like 30x70 degrees.

 

I'm also looking at the GU10 bulbs, and the standard CREE build (well I was looking at bridgelux, but it's seeming like they are significantly less efficient than the crees).

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I would like to use 20W LEDs from post #5 because I found 20W LED drivers which can be conected to Arduino for dimming. How many of this LEDs would you recomend for tank 31x21x16" (16 is height)

 

I made sketch in CATIA and 2x20W (with 90° lense) LED is ok for coverage of whole tank if mounted 8" above water level, but what about PAR

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I'm very interested in this for my 14g Biocube. I plan on using a 50W super actinic, but I have a question about the driver. Can I use a regular 50W Driver (ie. this one) and then add a 22ohm potentiometer to the output to get the LED's to dim? or is there something else in the driver that is required in order for the potentiometer to work?

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No, you need to run five of them to use that driver. If you want to run one 10w LED, the same seller has a single 10w driver.

 

Anyway to make that 10 w or 20 w driver dimmable ?

Can I just use this dimmer to dim it ?

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In the past 24 hours I've made about half a dozen responses on this web-site and others having to defend LEDs to a bunch of halide-facists using the 'poor color' arguement. The LED lights the halide guys reference for their straw horse building are almost always based on cheap Chinese LEDs rather than higher end warmer LEDs.

 

I know this seems like a cool feature having two colors on one die, but the drawback is you don't have control of the color. Plus, the white color used is likely no better than any other Asian white LED we'd normally avoid and end up getting sick of a year or two down the road. The result is.....the same. Just smoother color transitions from a mediocre light source, and I have no reason to assume the color on this LED is any better than other discrete Chinese LEDs. They just cram them on one die.

 

If you like it, that's cool, but if it's something that looks dull and makes you wish you were using T5s or halides 6months from now could y'all please do me a favor and not blame LEDs? Thanks

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Haha I think I've read some of your responses ;)

 

A few years ago I was all into LEDs as they were becoming popular. Then I gave in and got a halide. I like the halide a lot, except I don't like the operational cost and I don't like replacing the bulb. Actually my bulb is horribly out of spectrum right now and algae is a huge problem.

 

So I can definitely see your point about cheap Chinese LEDs... Their whites may not be as good as others. What do you think about the XP-G/XT-E 3up LED at ledgroupbuy ( http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/cree-xt-e-royal...ral-white-3-up/ )with 1 NW and 2 RB on a single die? It's not 20 watts, but it's 9, and at $13 a pop not too bad, even compared to these.

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My next test are exactly the 3up NW+RB LEDs from Ledgroupbuy. Two should be enough for my tank, the problem is just that they are not available at the moment so I'll have to wait for some time before I get to test them.

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I think I recall reading that Milad is going to start stocking those this month though, so hopefully a steady supply will be available from here on out.

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You rule! Thanks for testing these out. I'm thinking about a 5x20w array now.

Heh, thanks! Mine is still running strong, getting ready to install another one but hard to find space for is in the hood without drilling another hole. However, I will try, just have to find the right cooler - probably from the discarded PC graphic card as these have a much larger footprint than CPU coolers.

 

post-71436-1331588900_thumb.jpg

 

post-71436-1331588936_thumb.jpg

 

post-71436-1331588965_thumb.jpg

 

post-71436-1331589019_thumb.jpg

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Here are my zoas reacting to the LED light. At the start of video only night leds are on, then I power on the main 20W ComboLED, they seem to like it :)

 

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It's a little lighter but my camera definitely doesn't like this light.

 

If however I tried to adjust the white balance completely and thoroughly, I then get this photo, which in turn looks nothing like reality:

 

post-71436-1331844699_thumb.jpg

 

So, the previous photos are pretty close to what the tank looks like under this LED, but it's a bit less blue than depicted here. Still plenty of blues though, especially in shimmer.

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Looks awesome. Im thinking about setting up another tank and found this... Now i have DIY led on my biocube 29gal and this... looks promising.

 

I want to do this...and likely have two of them with all blue on one and all white on another : http://www.ebay.com/itm/85-265V-5-x-10W-Di...8#ht_1303wt_698

 

Would I be correct in thinking that you need a power supply for that? If so... what would you recommend?

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