3 Foot Long Nano

[Scorched]

On 5/8/2020 at 11:56 PM, itchy said:

Beautiful tank! I’ve been out of the hobby for about 5 years, but seeing this also inspired me to build a new tank similar. Version 2.0 is sweeeeeet.
 I know you provided your drilling diagram early on, but do you have an updated one (perhaps in inches)?

 

Mainly, how far from the top edge of the glass is the center of the large (1 3/4”) hole?

 

Thanks!!

 

The drain holes are as high as I could get them.  When the covers are on the bulkheads they are flush with the rim of the tank.

 

 

 

[itchy]

On 12/16/2019 at 12:26 AM, Scorched said:

 

Thanks for the kind words Calvin.  Sorry that my youtube videos have been lacking lately.  I haven't posted one of this tank in awhile.  Just a photo or two here and there.

 

If you have any questions about the build or anything reef related let me know.  I hope your next build is great and is is very successful.

Beautiful tank! I’ve been out of the hobby for about 5 years, but seeing this also inspired me to build a new tank similar. Version 2.0 is sweeeeeet.
 I know you provided your drilling diagram early on, but do you have an updated one (perhaps in inches)?

 

Mainly, how far from the top edge of the glass is the center of the large (1 3/4”) hole?

 

Thank you for the info!

[itchy]

Thank you for the info!
How did you get your bulkheads to be so low profile? Did you cut them? If so, how are the elbows connected to the bulkheads?

[Scorched]

7 minutes ago, itchy said:

Thank you for the info!
How did you get your bulkheads to be so low profile? Did you cut them? If so, how are the elbows connected to the bulkheads?

 

The bulkhead threads are cut so that when the nut is tightened it is flush at the back.

 

In order to get the low profile look you need to get Thread / Thread bulkheads.  The Elbow or Tees needed to be male threaded.  Then what you do is use Teflon joint compound (NOT Teflon Tape) and grip the threads meant for the interior (Flange side) from the back. 

 

[itchy]

1 hour ago, Scorched said:

 

The bulkhead threads are cut so that when the nut is tightened it is flush at the back.

 

In order to get the low profile look you need to get Thread / Thread bulkheads.  The Elbow or Tees needed to be male threaded.  Then what you do is use Teflon joint compound (NOT Teflon Tape) and grip the threads meant for the interior (Flange side) from the back. 

 

Very clever! Thank you! Here’s a shot of my build so far. 
 

[Scorched]

1 hour ago, itchy said:

Very clever! Thank you! Here’s a shot of my build so far. 
 

Very nice!!

 

These are the covers if you haven't found them yet.

https://www.marineandreef.com/JT_Manufacturing_Bulkheads_p/RJT00030.htm?gclid=CjwKCAjw7-P1BRA2EiwAXoPWA6f-vG5jp_NVMLs55yrTsMFs3yOIEvXCAOwO7MhEK_ROC-wzP-qacBoCcR0QAvD_BwE

 

 

[itchy]

23 minutes ago, Scorched said:

Very nice!!

 

These are the covers if you haven't found them yet.

https://www.marineandreef.com/JT_Manufacturing_Bulkheads_p/RJT00030.htm?gclid=CjwKCAjw7-P1BRA2EiwAXoPWA6f-vG5jp_NVMLs55yrTsMFs3yOIEvXCAOwO7MhEK_ROC-wzP-qacBoCcR0QAvD_BwE

 

 

Thanks! I actually just received them in the mail today. Per their advice, I ordered the same brand (JT) for a snug fit, but it’s really loose. Did you glue your screens to the bulkhead? Superglue?

 

[Scorched]

5 hours ago, itchy said:

Thanks! I actually just received them in the mail today. Per their advice, I ordered the same brand (JT) for a snug fit, but it’s really loose. Did you glue your screens to the bulkhead? Superglue?

 

 

On version 1 of my tank I just let them be loose.  The water pushing against them to go down the drain kept them in place and it was easy to clean.  On the new build one of my drains is a siphon and it needed to be air tight so that one uses plumbers putty to hold it in place.  That way its firm and sticky but can be peeled off to clean and adjust if needed.

 

[itchy]

On 5/11/2020 at 10:34 PM, Scorched said:

 

On version 1 of my tank I just let them be loose.  The water pushing against them to go down the drain kept them in place and it was easy to clean.  On the new build one of my drains is a siphon and it needed to be air tight so that one uses plumbers putty to hold it in place.  That way its firm and sticky but can be peeled off to clean and adjust if needed.

 

Were you happy with the Sanrise light? Do you think it would be hard to purchase/find here in Los Angeles?

[Scorched]

12 hours ago, itchy said:

Were you happy with the Sanrise light? Do you think it would be hard to purchase/find here in Los Angeles?

 

I was really happy with it.  It covered 100% of the tank and had good adjustability.  I run the Nanobox because it has Apex control + is very pleasing aesthetically with its slim size and matching wood top.

 

I actually still have the Sanrise and was about to tell you I'd sell it to you. But I just thought i'd put it over the tank 1 last time to see how it looks.

 

Honestly.  It looks better and has less shadowing on the corals.  I'm now very temped to swap the light back the the Sanrise permanently.  Its probably still available through some 3rd party otherwise if you are a bit daring you might find it on Alibaba/AliExpress and order it directly from China like I did.

 

Here seems to be a good alternative with similar size and light control.

https://premiumaquatics.com/products/zetlight-zt6600a-apex-ready-led-fixture.html

 

I can keep looking for the Sanrise or good alternatives if you are interested.

 

 

[itchy]

5 hours ago, Scorched said:

 

I was really happy with it.  It covered 100% of the tank and had good adjustability.  I run the Nanobox because it has Apex control + is very pleasing aesthetically with its slim size and matching wood top.

 

I actually still have the Sanrise and was about to tell you I'd sell it to you. But I just thought i'd put it over the tank 1 last time to see how it looks.

 

Honestly.  It looks better and has less shadowing on the corals.  I'm now very temped to swap the light back the the Sanrise permanently.  Its probably still available through some 3rd party otherwise if you are a bit daring you might find it on Alibaba/AliExpress and order it directly from China like I did.

 

Here seems to be a good alternative with similar size and light control.

https://premiumaquatics.com/products/zetlight-zt6600a-apex-ready-led-fixture.html

 

I can keep looking for the Sanrise or good alternatives if you are interested.

 

 

Thanks for considering selling it to me! I definitely agree with the pleasing aesthetics of the Nanobox. I’ve been trying to find a light that’s aesthetically pleasing, can handle beginner/intermediate SPS, and is friendly on the wallet (~$200). Some of my initial options are the Fluval Sea, AI Prime 16 HD, or the Current Orbit. Unfortunately, all are lacking in ALL the criteria. lol 
Perhaps a less robust, but similar alternative to the Nanobox would be ideal. 

[William]

Check out the new Reef Breeders phantom or the Noopsyche 

[Frag Factory]

On 5/11/2020 at 9:23 PM, Scorched said:

In order to get the low profile look you need to get Thread / Thread bulkheads.  The Elbow or Tees needed to be male threaded.  Then what you do is use Teflon joint compound (NOT Teflon Tape) and grip the threads meant for the interior (Flange side) from the back. 

Sorry if you have posted this elsewhere but where did you buy these?...

[Scorched]

 

12 hours ago, Frag Factory said:

Sorry if you have posted this elsewhere but where did you buy these?...

 

 

Bulkheads threaded on both sides

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/bulkhead-abs-thread-x-thread.html

 

I think I ordered most of my fittings from Zoro.com and painted them.

https://www.zoro.com/lasco-street-elbow-1-in-mpt-x-fpt-412010/i/G5278262/

https://www.zoro.com/lasco-tee-1-in-slipxslipxmpt-402b010/i/G5277325/

 

For Sch80 or black you really have to look around.

https://www.epco-plastics.com/product/pvc-metric-plain-threaded-pipe-fittings/pvc-metric-plainthreaded-90-degree-elbow-male-thread-one-end

https://www.epco-plastics.com/product/pvc-metric-plain-threaded-pipe-fittings/pvc-metric-plainthreaded-tee-external-thread-on-branch

https://www.praher-plastics.com/product/ibg-elbows-pvc-u-90-bsp

https://www.praher-plastics.com/product/ibg-tees-pvc-u-90-bsp/

[PicoSavvy]

On 5/10/2020 at 1:16 AM, Scorched said:

Thanks!!

 

The drain holes are as high as I could get them.  When the covers are on the bulkheads they are flush with the rim of the tank.

 

 

 

I have to ask, with the drain so high up do you run into noise issues? I once had a tank with the drain bulkhead that was high up like that but could not stand the noise it made.

[Scorched]

9 minutes ago, PicoSavvy said:

I have to ask, with the drain so high up do you run into noise issues? I once had a tank with the drain bulkhead that was high up like that but could not stand the noise it made.

 

Well if you run both drains 100% and just use gavity and a lower gph pump it is fairly quiet.  This is how I ran v1 for over 5 years inside an office with coworkers, they would have complained if it was loud enough to hear.

 

If you run too much flow through the return pump and don't have a very smooth drain line it will cause a lot of noise

 

 

If you run one drain as a siphon and the second as a trickle you are basically turning the entire tank into a large overflow box with a herbie.

 

 

This however is quite dangerous if you put too much water in the tank and the pump will push more than it can drain for the first few seconds every time the tank restarts or there is a power failure.  But if you keep exactly the correct amount in the entire system it works very well.  I currently use optical sensors along with the ATK to control the pump as well so it doesn't even suck air anymore and is silent all the time.

 

 

[PicoSavvy]

For me, the noisemaker was the drain itself the Sicce Syncra I use was fairly quite. I only used one bulkhead for the drain as it was a small tank and didn't want to stress the back panel with to many holes. But no matter what I did it was loud I could hear it in the next room from it. Also thank you for the response 

[itchy]

On 5/11/2020 at 1:23 PM, Scorched said:

 

The bulkhead threads are cut so that when the nut is tightened it is flush at the back.

 

In order to get the low profile look you need to get Thread / Thread bulkheads.  The Elbow or Tees needed to be male threaded.  Then what you do is use Teflon joint compound (NOT Teflon Tape) and grip the threads meant for the interior (Flange side) from the back. 

 

Any particular reason why you stressed not to use Teflon tape? Does it pose a toxic hazard to the fish/corals?

 

 

[Scorched]

5 hours ago, itchy said:

Any particular reason why you stressed not to use Teflon tape? Does it pose a toxic hazard to the fish/corals?

 

 

It leaks very easily.  Teflon tape was made for metal fittings.  It can slip and bunch up on PVC causeing little gaps and tunnels for water to leak through.

 

But mainly the reason why its so important in my scenario is because you are threading in the fitting backwards.  Most threaded fittings are tapered slightly.  The paste fills in the tapered gap thats created and prevents leaks.  I'm going on 2 tanks over 8 years with no leaks by using this reverse method with teflon paste.  And because it is paste it stays pliable.  If you need to disassemble the tank in the future the paste still moves and will release the fitting if you unscrew it.

[itchy]

34 minutes ago, Scorched said:

It leaks very easily.  Teflon tape was made for metal fittings.  It can slip and bunch up on PVC causeing little gaps and tunnels for water to leak through.

 

But mainly the reason why its so important in my scenario is because you are threading in the fitting backwards.  Most threaded fittings are tapered slightly.  The paste fills in the tapered gap thats created and prevents leaks.  I'm going on 2 tanks over 8 years with no leaks by using this reverse method with teflon paste.  And because it is paste it stays pliable.  If you need to disassemble the tank in the future the paste still moves and will release the fitting if you unscrew it.

Ah yes. Makes sense. As always, thanks for the great advice. My tank project is moving along. Trying to figure out which light to get. I ordered the Fluval Marine & Reef 3.0, but I’m having second thoughts since I’m not sure it is strong enough to keep some beginner SPS. 

[itchy]

On 5/21/2020 at 9:03 PM, Scorched said:

It leaks very easily.  Teflon tape was made for metal fittings.  It can slip and bunch up on PVC causeing little gaps and tunnels for water to leak through.

 

But mainly the reason why its so important in my scenario is because you are threading in the fitting backwards.  Most threaded fittings are tapered slightly.  The paste fills in the tapered gap thats created and prevents leaks.  I'm going on 2 tanks over 8 years with no leaks by using this reverse method with teflon paste.  And because it is paste it stays pliable.  If you need to disassemble the tank in the future the paste still moves and will release the fitting if you unscrew it.

Small issue: Holes for the 1/2” return bulkheads were drilled too big (1 1/2” instead of 1 1/8”). Causing a small leak. 
 

My options:

 

1. use 3/4” bulkheads instead and have 3/4” return lines. (Do you think 3/4” return lines will be too big?)

2. use 3/4” bulkheads and reduce to 1/2” return tubing. 

 

3. Keep existing 1/2” bulkheads and try to supplement a gasket meant for the 3/4” bulkheads 

 

 

[PicoSavvy]

I would just use a 3/4 bulkead i have one in a 1.5 gallon tank and it   worked fine.

[Scorched]

59 minutes ago, itchy said:

Small issue: Holes for the 1/2” return bulkheads were drilled too big (1 1/2” instead of 1 1/8”). Causing a small leak. 
 

My options:

 

1. use 3/4” bulkheads instead and have 3/4” return lines. (Do you think 3/4” return lines will be too big?)

2. use 3/4” bulkheads and reduce to 1/2” return tubing. 

 

3. Keep existing 1/2” bulkheads and try to supplement a gasket meant for the 3/4” bulkheads 

 

 

Ya thats too big of a gap to try and seal with just a gasket.  Id go with the 3/4 bulkhead.  There shouldn't be a whole lot of a difference.  You may actually get more "flow" in gph terms.

 

If the bulkheads are 3/4" I'd do 3/4 for all the return lines.  Most pumps uses 3/4.  My Cor is a 3/4 output but since I had it Teed and feeding a reactor as well I just put all of those splits as 1/2"

  

[itchy]

1 hour ago, Scorched said:

Ya thats too big of a gap to try and seal with just a gasket.  Id go with the 3/4 bulkhead.  There shouldn't be a whole lot of a difference.  You may actually get more "flow" in gph terms.

 

If the bulkheads are 3/4" I'd do 3/4 for all the return lines.  Most pumps uses 3/4.  My Cor is a 3/4 output but since I had it Teed and feeding a reactor as well I just put all of those splits as 1/2"

  

Thanks. Also working on keeping the noise down. It’s pretty loud where the water drains into the sump. 
 

I guess another option would be to get a 1/2” schedule 80 bulkhead like this. 
 

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/bulkhead-schedule-80-slip-x-thread-slip-on-the-flange-head-side-1-3c30bc3ec05967d33995f258b184fabb.html

 

[Scorched]

4 minutes ago, itchy said:

Thanks. Also working on keeping the noise down. It’s pretty loud where the water drains into the sump. 

 

Which method are you going for?  Herbie or Dual Gravity with air in both drains?

 

If its the dual gravity version I'd recommend 1-2 filter socks stuffed with filter floss that exit just slightly above the water level in the sump but drain straight on top of the floss.  This cuts the noise and eliminates the bubble sound from air trying to escape from below the water.   When I did it this way for 5 years on versions 1.0 it worked well with vinyl tubing.  As soon as I transferred the method to PVC and some complex piping with lots of bends it was ok but not as great as it was.  This is why I went with the herbie / single siphon setup on the latest tank.  It also let me push a lot more flow through the tank.  This however comes with increased risk but its completely manageable if you keep the total water volume to a reasonable amount.