MOJOEJOEJOE

3x 10watt diy led fixture

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I wanted to make a quick easy led fixture to replace my existing led fixture.

I decided to try 10 watt led`s just to see how wel they would do. I built my first fixture about 1 year ago with these 10 watt led`s and it did well. I made changes so that I could hook up my Arduino and write a real simple code to PWM my lights. I did this because I want to be able to make adjustments to the lights for color temp.

The fixture is real clean and simple. I will list parts if anyone is really interested as well as the code to run it. I think it cost about $100 total including everything ( controller power supply and led`s)

The first picture shows all the hardware and the second is the light running at about 15~20% power. The nice thing is that the LED`S do not get hot because I do not run above 50% power.

 

 

 

 

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How powerful is it compared to 3 watt leds?

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I cant run above 50% power because of how brite it is. I`m not sure about par or anything like that because I have no way of measuring. The nice thing is that with only 3 led`s the end result is clean.

 

 

 

Not a great pic but it is at about 25% or so.

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Can you post the parts because I wouldnt mind using this on my refugium I am building

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I will post in the morning because I am getting ready to watch the Klitschko fight.

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1)arduino http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNO-Arduino-Compat...c#ht_2096wt_952

 

2)white led X2 http://www.ebay.com/itm/280819539171?ssPag...#ht_4006wt_1185

 

3)blue led http://www.ebay.com/itm/280816907052?ssPag...9#ht_2130wt_952

 

4)mosfet driver http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-V02-Arduino-4-...c#ht_2153wt_952

 

5)sensor shield http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-High-Quali...#ht_3808wt_1185

 

6)power supply X2 http://www.ebay.com/itm/230738212009?ssPag...9#ht_935wt_1185

 

7)3pin cable http://www.ebay.com/itm/12x-30cm-Arduino-S...e#ht_3054wt_952

 

I will add some notes to the code to explain how to hook it up. It`s nothing fancy just a few lines of code that will allow you to tune the color temp to your desire. I just need a little time to edit my code for that. Also, I did not add an attachment for a fan, heat-sink ,or box(enclosure). I got all of them for free by using old stuff hanging around. I also used old cables that I had to solder the leads on the LED`S. I think parts to do this would be another 30 or so and that`s why I said around $100 for everything.

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apparently I can not upload a .PDE file so here it is as a text document. You can still use this just copy it to your compiler and do a save as. It has a bunch of notes so I apologize for the long thread. Just copy everything below and save it as a text document.

 

/* BASIC LED ADJUSTABLE CURRENT SETUP. I USE 3 LED`S ,2 WHITE 1 BLUE AND CHANGE THE PW OF

 

EACH TO CHANGE THE POWER AND THE COLOR OUTPUT IF YOU WANT MORE BLUE SIMPLY MAKE THE BLUE

 

NUMBER BIGGER*/

 

/* ATTACH THE SENSOR SHIELD TO THE ARDUINO.IT JUST PLUGS IN NOTHING SPECIAL. ATTACH 4 CABLES

 

BETWEEN THE SENSOR SHIELD AND THE MOSFET DRIVER BD. AT PINS 5,6,10,11 (SEE THE PIN OUT IN THE

 

CODE FOR PIN1,PIN2,PIN3,AND PIN4). ATTACH 1 POWER SUPPLY TO THE ARDUINO AND THE OTHER TO THE

 

MOSFET BD. ATTACH THE LED`S TO THE MOSFET BD AND THE FAN (12VDC) TO THE MOSFET BD. DOWNLOAD

 

THE COMPILER FROM THE ARDUINO WEBSITE AND FLASH THE BD WITH THE CODE BELOW. THE 3 LIGHTS AND

 

FAN SHOULD COME ON AT ABOUT 50% POWER.ADJUST THE DAC VALUE BETWEEN 0-255.0 IS OFF AND 255 IS

 

FULL POWER.*/

 

/* FUTURE CODE WILL HAVE A MENU SO THAT WE DO NOT NEED TO REFLAS EACH TIME WE ADJUST THE

 

LIGHTS. IT WILL ALSO HAVE A REAL TIME CLOCK INSTALLED IN THE BD FOR USE AS A STAND ALONE

 

TIMER. THE CODE WILL BE ABLE TO FAdE IN THE LIGHTS FOR DAWN TO DUSK TIMER SEQUENCE.THAT PART

 

IS ALREADY DONE BUT NOT IN THIS VERSION.THE CODE WILL ALSO HAVE A FEW TEMPERATURE SENSORS

 

INSTALLED TO CHANGE FAN SPEED BASED OFF OF HOOD AND HEATSINK TEMPS. IT WILL ALSO MONITOR

 

WATER TEMP. EVEN FURTHER DOWN THE ROAD I WILL HAVE ANOTHER INTERFACE BD WITH RELAYS.THIS WILL

 

HAVE CONTROL OVER THE HEATER,THE PUMPS,AND ANY OTHER A.C CONNECTIONS.*/

 

 

//MAIN CODE

 

 

int pin1 = 10; // LED connected to PWM pin 10 to output 1 of mosfet bd.

int pulsewidthWhite1 = 127; // Any value between 0 and 255

 

int pin2 = 11; // LED connected to PWM pin 11 to output 2 of mosfet bd.

int pulsewidthWhite2 = 127; // Any value between 0 and 255

 

int pin3 = 5; // LED connected to PWM pin 11 to output 2 of mosfet bd.

int FAN = 127; // Any value between 0 and 255

 

 

int pin4 = 6; // LED connected to PWM pin 6 to output 4 of mosfet bd.

int pulsewidthBlue2 = 127; // Any value between 0 and 255

 

 

void setup() {

// None required for analogWrite!

}

 

 

void loop() {

analogWrite(pin1, pulsewidthWhite1);

analogWrite(pin2, pulsewidthWhite2);

analogWrite(pin3, FAN);

analogWrite(pin4, pulsewidthBlue2);

}

 

 

 

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How powerful is it compared to 3 watt leds?

 

3.33333333333 x more powerful

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3.33333333333 x more powerful

 

:lol: exactly what is was thinking.

 

Is that a trigger in there? Uh oh, flame on.

 

Nice build though.

 

Might want to kill the Aiptasia

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How powerful is it compared to 3 watt leds?

 

3.33333333333 x more powerful

 

I have a bunch of these, and they are around 80lumens at 350mA per each of the individual 1watt LEDs that comprise the 3x3 array. ~650lumens.

 

Short answer, about as bright as two XP-Gs in series at an AMP which are consuming 1/3 less total power. Love the controller work BTW

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:lol: exactly what is was thinking.

 

Is that a trigger in there? Uh oh, flame on.

 

Nice build though.

 

Might want to kill the Aiptasia

 

 

Damn Aiptasia LOL. I tried but it keeps coming back. The fish is a Valentini Puffer but I love triggers. So far he seems real good and has not really done any damage to any inverts. I also have a yellow watchman that I never see. I forgot all about him and back in October we had a power outage for a week. I lost most of my corals and took all my live rock out and there he was under the sand. I should have got a picture of him because I have never seen a watchman that fat. He must of found a good spot and decided to stay there.

 

I have a bunch of these, and they are around 80lumens at 350mA per each of the individual 1watt LEDs that comprise the 3x3 array. ~650lumens.

 

Short answer, about as bright as two XP-Gs in series at an AMP which are consuming 1/3 less total power. Love the controller work BTW

 

 

Thanks I wanted to keep it clean and simple.

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I just hooked up my RTC to my bench test fixture and got it work. Now I need to write code for it . I think I am going to make a simple Algorithm to turn the light intensity on at certain levels time based. I really do not want anything too fancy. I also got an old float and some relays. My goal with that is to interface all my A.C stuff to the Arduino and be able to use the float as an off switch if my water level drops. I had a problem with my canister filter and it was leaking the other day. I got lucky and it was a real slow leak but I could see how it could have been a real big problem. With the switch I can tell the filter to shut off in the event of a leak as well as my heater and other stuff.

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Just got my royal blues from China and swapped them out. I really like the color and hopefully I will get my 16k white`s soon. I also now know why I never had any desire to be a firmware engineer. Writing code sucks.I cant seem to get my timer on my RTC to work the way I want. Oh well i will keep hacking away. Attached is a picture with the royal blue`s hooked up.

 

 

 

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I used to have a valentini for about 5 years, awesome fish. Not flamming but no way would I keep one in a 12 gallon. They really love shrimp, octopus, etc, and usually don't do as well off commercial foods, they are also messy eaters and tend to fin nip in a smaller environments. If you feed like this your going to have to keep up with the WC heavily or have a wicked skimmer on the system if you don't want an asinine amount of algae growth. I am even debating putting one in my 30 gallon with 10 sump due to the possible fin nipping and food.

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I used to have a valentini for about 5 years, awesome fish. Not flamming but no way would I keep one in a 12 gallon. They really love shrimp, octopus, etc, and usually don't do as well off commercial foods, they are also messy eaters and tend to fin nip in a smaller environments. If you feed like this your going to have to keep up with the WC heavily or have a wicked skimmer on the system if you don't want an asinine amount of algae growth. I am even debating putting one in my 30 gallon with 10 sump due to the possible fin nipping and food.

 

 

I figured I would keep for a while and then give him to my brother for his55. He seems to have paired up with my clown for some reason but hey what ever suits him. They rarely leave each others side. I am running a canister filter so hopefully that helps. He seems to really like brine shrimp and flakes as well. I have had a stupid green hair algae problem for like 2 years now in this tank. It happened long before LED`S so I have no idea what to do for it.

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Get rid of the canister filter is step 1...Weekly W/C with RODI water...Less feeding...read the H2o2 thread..

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I changed things a little bit today. I now have 3 blue ,2 white, and 1 red LED all 10watt. I think I blew the red so I will need to do some testing.I really don`t care about the red because it was way too bright anyway. I`m still waiting for my white 16k`s to come in. When I get them I will go with 3white and 3 blue. As of now I am running the 2 whites at about 70% power and the blues at 50%. I think when I have all 3 whites they will be at less then 50%.

My corals seem to be extending better then they have in the past so I guess thats a good thing. More pictures and hopefully documentation on the code to come. If anyone has any suggestions or links to a control system for Arduino let me know.

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Got my 16k whites but there is no way they are even close to 16k color temp. They are a nicer white then my original whites but no way they are 16k. I did wire them up so now all I need to do is open the box and install them. I am thinking of making a better more attractive box but for now I am going with the square ugly box lol.

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Get rid of the canister filter is step 1

 

There is nothing wrong with a canister if you keep it clean.

 

IF you keep it clean.

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There is nothing wrong with a canister if you keep it clean.

 

IF you keep it clean.

 

 

Sure...

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There is nothing wrong with a canister if you keep it clean.

 

IF you keep it clean.

 

I try to keep it clean and usually break it down every third water change. It does trap a bunch of crap so I agree that it needs to be cleaned. The stock filter was good on my Nanucube but I wanted a little more space so I removed it and added the canister. I also got green hair algae with the stock filter.

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I just finished writing my code to include my clock. It actually works but it`s sort of sloppy. I have little experience with c++ so it`s sort of new to me. It`s real nice to actually see this working. My code uses my rtc as a timer and turns the light intensity on at different intervals through the day. I know it`s been done a million times but it`s a fun project that makes the tank a better overall experience.I tried to make the code as intuitive as possible and flexible for different applications.I think anyone could pick this up and make there own based off of this.I will add some other functions later such as temperature and humidity monitoring in the hood along with fan speed control.I also plan on installing my lcd for feed back. I have been trying different things for the lcd because it is a graphic lcd.

I did a quick calculation and I am into this project for about $100. Not bad for a 60watt led hood with a built in programable timer. I think I paid about $10 for the lcd and I found temp sensors for about $5 each. I did get the enclosure from a recycled part at work along with the heat sink and fan. I guess if you had to buy everything it would cost more like $150 or so. I like using old recycled parts (aka junk).

If anyone wants the code let me know.

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Just finished more lines of code for my arduino. It now has an LCD display and 3 temperature sensors along with a humidity sensor for the hood.The temp sensors are hood,room,and water. The lcd also shows the date and time. The hood sensor ties into my PWM fan so it will come on at a specified intensity if the heat sink in the hood get`s too warm. i`m not sure what too warm is but it sure is nice having a PWM fan because I can make the speed slow enough so that I cant hear it and still get good air movement.This is huge in a smaller house because full on (for the fans) was driving me nuts.

The lights are working great and fading through the day. They are all blue in the morning and gradually build up to about 60% power white and blue at noon and then fade back down at night.

The thing I like most about the LED`S is that the shimmer off of the water is real cool along with some of the shadows from fish and rocks and corals as they sway.

Next up will be a relay pack for the filters and heater. I think this will work out well and I have already written a few lines of code to test it with some old relays I had at work from a controller bd. for one of our products.

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I wanted to make a quick easy led fixture to replace my existing led fixture.

I decided to try 10 watt led`s just to see how wel they would do. I built my first fixture about 1 year ago with these 10 watt led`s and it did well. I made changes so that I could hook up my Arduino and write a real simple code to PWM my lights. I did this because I want to be able to make adjustments to the lights for color temp.

The fixture is real clean and simple. I will list parts if anyone is really interested as well as the code to run it. I think it cost about $100 total including everything ( controller power supply and led`s)

The first picture shows all the hardware and the second is the light running at about 15~20% power. The nice thing is that the LED`S do not get hot because I do not run above 50% power.

 

 

 

 

Hi MoJoe,

 

Nice looking build, I'm using the same White LED's (but 6 of them), I'd be interested if you could give some more info about the wiring and circuit Diag's if possible ?

Also - Does 1 mosfet channel control each LED ?

Thanks

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Hi MoJoe,

 

Nice looking build, I'm using the same White LED's (but 6 of them), I'd be interested if you could give some more info about the wiring and circuit Diag's if possible ?

Also - Does 1 mosfet channel control each LED ?

Thanks

 

 

Let me sketch something up in the morning. Do you plan on using a micro controller like an Arduino? If so it makes the build real simple and straight forward. Plus you will get a much better light and a lot more custom by doing it yourself. If you need my code let me know. Like I said I will try to put a schematic together as soon as I can.

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