PinkDamsel Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 If you want good color, you need a good base. Neutral white and royal blue, this is all that most people need. I have nw & rb already, and lose pinks, reds, lime green, maybe purple as well in my corals. I have growth, so my issue is color; that's why I was interested in supplementing w. OCW. And yes, it's a 3-gallon Picotope. The more I think about it, I think you should look at a Full spectrum PAR38 from LEDtric. Thanks for the suggestion. I had in fact looked at this, but for my small tank I think it would be overkill intensity-wise. Had to hang my 10w, 5-led PAR 30 22.5" over the sandbed (since moved to 14.5") and acclimate. The LEDtrics are 18w and 12 leds. . . . Appreciate your thinking about my problem, though. Link to comment
PinkDamsel Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 Magenta is just Royal Blue and 660nm Deep red.You can get the OCW and small heatsink from a CPU to make a compact light but you will have a hard time powering just one OCW. You can run the OCW at 1w each LED, you just give it less power. If someone comes up w. a design for a pico - now I'm talking about complete lighting, not just supplementing w. exotic colors - I'd be interested. I'll go ask my other questions in a separate thread so as not to highjack this one. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 If someone comes up w. a design for a pico - now I'm talking about complete lighting, not just supplementing w. exotic colors - I'd be interested. I'll go ask my other questions in a separate thread so as not to highjack this one. The problem with this is that so few LEDs are needed, drivers are very hard to come by, unless you want every LED on the same circuit and just do on/off. Link to comment
oldpunk78 Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 The problem with this is that so few LEDs are needed, drivers are very hard to come by, unless you want every LED on the same circuit and just do on/off. buckpucks Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 buckpucks They aren't any cheaper, unfortunately. Six buckpucks for six colors is still $100+ by the time you figure in your power supply. That's one part of LED fixtures that just doesn't scale down. Link to comment
RK_tek Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 I just wired up my OCWs (4) on my tank with an inventronics 40w 700ma driver. All the LEDs work fine but I'm having driver issues. I'm controlling the LEDs with a typhon controller. I have NW on one meanwell 60-48p driver and RBs on another. Has anyone else had issues with these drivers on a typhon before? Btw I am using the 0-10v outputs. Driver controls are wired purple 10v input and green ground Link to comment
Tyron Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 What exactly is happening or not happening with the drivers? Link to comment
Milad LEDGroupBuy.com Posted April 26, 2012 Author Share Posted April 26, 2012 I just wired up my OCWs (4) on my tank with an inventronics 40w 700ma driver. All the LEDs work fine but I'm having driver issues. I'm controlling the LEDs with a typhon controller. I have NW on one meanwell 60-48p driver and RBs on another. Has anyone else had issues with these drivers on a typhon before? Btw I am using the 0-10v outputs. Driver controls are wired purple 10v input and green ground Someone else can chime in on this as I dont know too much about the Typhoon. I believe its a PWM controller so when you say give it 5v its actually giving 10v 50% of the time. The Inventronics drivers have the 0-10v digital signal which controller like the Neptune Apex and DIM4 use. So they would act a bit funny with the PWM type driver like the Typhoon. What exactly is it doing? Link to comment
RK_tek Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 3846415[/url]']Someone else can chime in on this as I dont know too much about the Typhoon. I believe its a PWM controller so when you say give it 5v its actually giving 10v 50% of the time. The Inventronics drivers have the 0-10v digital signal which controller like the Neptune Apex and DIM4 use. So they would act a bit funny with the PWM type driver like the Typhoon. What exactly is it doing? The lights are coming on with the RB channel and will dim up or down some of the time along with the RB but sometimes they just go to full power. They are actually on a seperated channel from all the other LEDs. I may have to just get another driver that can handle the PWM better. I misunderstood the spec sheet when it said 0-10v dimming input. I may be able to wire up some filtering capacitors or something so the driver will "see" the correct voltage Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 Inventronics drivers use "analog" dimming, whereas the Typhon can only do PWM. How do you like the Typhon, by the way? My new drivers are PWM, and it seems to be the only LED controller that isn't also a full reef controller to support PWM. PM me so we don't clog the thread. Link to comment
DennisJ Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 Hi, I am currently running a DIY 2009 build with 60RB and 66CW Cree XRE on my 88x20x20 tank. I need more colour, i was looking at adding more RB or Blue Leds, but now i see the OCW is available, how many of these do you recommend i add? any other type led that would give more colour? Thanks. Dennis Link to comment
Veng Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 Inventronics drivers use "analog" dimming, whereas the Typhon can only do PWM. How do you like the Typhon, by the way? My new drivers are PWM, and it seems to be the only LED controller that isn't also a full reef controller to support PWM. PM me so we don't clog the thread. I'm interested on this. If you don't want to clog this thread, then make a new thread as I'm sure others are as well. Link to comment
Milad LEDGroupBuy.com Posted April 26, 2012 Author Share Posted April 26, 2012 Hi, I am currently running a DIY 2009 build with 60RB and 66CW Cree XRE on my 88x20x20 tank. I need more colour, i was looking at adding more RB or Blue Leds, but now i see the OCW is available, how many of these do you recommend i add? any other type led that would give more colour? Thanks. Dennis 4-6 OCW per 24x24x24 area. Link to comment
Deckoz2302 Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 I got an idea. Why don't you sell your typhoon to Jedi and I will sell my dim4 and relays to you for 75(normally 115 about). The dim4 was used for 1 month while I awaited my reef angel and the relays were never used Dim4 is analog ;P Link to comment
RK_tek Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 3848089[/url]']I got an idea. Why don't you sell your typhoon to Jedi and I will sell my dim4 and relays to you for 75(normally 115 about). The dim4 was used for 1 month while I awaited my reef angel and the relays were never used Dim4 is analog ;P Because my other drivers are PWM and I'm not spending $75 on something that my $35 part can do. Link to comment
Deckoz2302 Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 Sounded like all your drivers were analog lol was just an offer. No need to get upset Link to comment
Milad LEDGroupBuy.com Posted May 2, 2012 Author Share Posted May 2, 2012 Any updates on builds? Link to comment
Singlefin Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 Maybe after the 29th? Haha. Thanks for the update. Link to comment
malawian Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 build is all set, in the middle of finals at the moment so I havent started on it as of yet but all the parts are in. Tank is 48x18x21 deep and the LEDs planned are 6 arrays of 10 boards each. RB RB NW TV NW OCW RB NW RB RB will look something like this, I have updated the design to more evenly space the arrays in case you were wondering what $600 worth of parts looks like Link to comment
AllXJ96 Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 Hey all, I have been planning on doing an LED build for awhile (finally convinced the wife to let me start building) for my 90 gal 48*18*24 using XML neutral whites, XTE royal blues, turquoise, deep red, true violet, and cool blues. So far I am planning 2 arrays as depicted below, no optics as it will sit approx 6" off the water.[/img] Looking at it I think there will be too much red, any thoughts? and malawian, what combo of LED's are you planning on using? Link to comment
McJosh13 Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 Hey all, I have been planning on doing an LED build for awhile (finally convinced the wife to let me start building) for my 90 gal 48*18*24 using XML neutral whites, XTE royal blues, turquoise, deep red, true violet, and cool blues. So far I am planning 2 arrays as depicted below, no optics as it will sit approx 6" off the water.[/img] Looking at it I think there will be too much red, any thoughts? and malawian, what combo of LED's are you planning on using? Way too much deep red and turquosie Link to comment
Paul_B Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 Hi All, loooking to do a LED setup for my Red Sea Max 130. Should I use cool white or neutral white or a mixture of both? Any thoughts or comments? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 Hi All, loooking to do a LED setup for my Red Sea Max 130. Should I use cool white or neutral white or a mixture of both? Any thoughts or comments? Definitely only use neutral white. The amounts of each will depend on what LEDs you will go with (CREE, Rebel ES, or Bridgelux) and what kind of corals you would like to keep. Link to comment
Paul_B Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 Definitely only use neutral white. The amounts of each will depend on what LEDs you will go with (CREE, Rebel ES, or Bridgelux) and what kind of corals you would like to keep. I intend to use Cree XP-E's for the White, Royal blue & Blue. The corals I would like to keep are LPS, SPS, soft and possibly a clam. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 I intend to use Cree XP-E's for the White, Royal blue & Blue. The corals I would like to keep are LPS, SPS, soft and possibly a clam. Why? XP-E are old models. XP-G whites and XT-E royals are much more efficient. Link to comment
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