Custom Look CadLights 50Long

[twan]

Looking @ Model

 

Tonight I cut up some cardboard to mimic the 36x18x18 footprint of the tank and the overflow portion.

The whole model is 1/4" off front to back but it got the job done.

The overflow is 3.5"x5.0" which I still do not have final confirmation of.

The rock is not zip tied or mortar'd at all. It is just wedged together at the moment.

 

Be kind, I thought it would be easy to integrate Pukani and Tonga but I was wrong.

This was put together then 20 minutes.

Now that I look at it I would move the whole layout to the right to hide the overflow more and leave open sand space on the left side instead of the right.

Enough talk onto the pics.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Jacob042426]

[siwelk]

How many lbs of Pukani is that again?

 

I refuse to backtrack.

[Jacob042426]

A few.

[twan]

How many lbs of Pukani is that again?

 

I refuse to backtrack.

 

I'd say about 30lbs Pukanni and 5 lbs tonga. The other 10lbs on Pukanni will go in my sump probably. Here is the left over.

 

[siwelk]

Cool.

 

I just ordered 10lbs, and that's about the composition I'd like to have.

[Asureef]

Cool scape, but I would try to aqua-scape the rocks off away from the glass as far as possible.

[twan]

I flipped the islands to hide the overflow better.

I then tossed it all into the containers to get it cycling.

I thought about trying to zip tie the rocks together to preserve the 'scape while cyling but my containers are not large enough.

I will have these pics to go by when setting up again.

 

It is about 30lbs pukani and 6 lbs tonga.

I still have 10lbs of pukani that I did not use:

[twan]

Looking @ Equipment Panel

 

Just like Viewpoints delays in my tank / stand have allowed me the time to flesh out an equipment panel. He did a marvelous job on his here & here. The idea for this came solely from him. I was not planning on this.

 

What I will be changing however is the panel will be bolted to an unfinished wall in a crawl space behind the tank (and not inside the stand). My approach to this is to have all water on one side of the wall with the tank and sump but all electronics on the other side. I have a 3'x3' area to work with. The space where the panel will go is here:

 

 

Equipment that will go on the panel:

Tunze Osimolator Unit.

Apex Lite Unit.

Apex EB 8.

Sol Blue Power Packs (2).

Ecotech Battery Backup.

 

The AI controller, Apex head unit and Ecotech 10mpw controller will not be on this panel. They will be tucked away on the side of my stand for easy access.

 

I purchased two panels to fill the area. To start I may only need one but I figured I would install both now to have future real estate if I need. Pieces will be mounted with spacers to allow for heat dispersal. Cords will run along backside of panel just like Urbaneks' equipment board. Another tip I took from his is use color coded tags on outlets and the correct cord to be plugged into them. I am using colored electrical tape to accomplish this.

 

When all components arrive I will mount them to the board, snake the wires, then mount the board to the existing studs.

 

Both Panels

 

Tape and Apex

 

Mounting Mock-up with Spacers

 

Color Coding

 

[nickjqz]

That is a sweet idea for the tape.

[LouDog3]

Looking good. Having a room behind the tanks is going to make it sooo much nicer! Looks like you are the right path. Can't wait to see it finished.

[urbaneks]

I'm jealous of the extra room you have for your equipment panel. Looking at your setup in the crawlspace, I would recommend you add hinges on one side of the panel. That way you can swing it forward if you ever have to replace a component.

[twan]

Good thought/ addition Urban.

If I had thought of that I probably would not have got a 5/8" panel.

I'm not sure how if hinges would hold it because of the weight.

I was thinking of mounting them landscape and with the weight

I do not think regular hinges would hold up very well.

 

Might have to mount them up and down have them hinged on the outside and meet in the middle like a cabinet would.

 

At any rate just when you think you have thought of everything.............you get another idea.

 

I am going to wait till I have the light ballasts and Tunze ATO head unit and ecotech battery backup before I start mounting. I'd love to get it out of the way now but I need all components 1st.

[twan]

Looking @ Plumbing

 

I am new to this. I took the drawing of my sump (should be in next week) and started to play around a little bit. Connections are marked red ovals. The green ovals come with the ball valve so I am not concerned about those.

I am going to need help with this. Some kind soul take pity on me and dumb it way down please!

 

 

Questions.

1.) How to attach to the bulkheads that CAD supplies? (they might be crap and I maybe replacing those as well.) Unions? Slip? Threaded? Glue them?

2.) How do I handle the 90 degree bends on the drain. Do I just prime then cement the 90 deg elbows on both sides or do I use a coupler in between & only glue one side for easy dis-assembly?

3.) How do I attach the 3/4" hard line to the return pump to allow it to be removed easily.

4.) How do I handle both sides of the 3/4" George Fischer WYE Valve for easy removal and cleaning?

 

Thanks!

 

[siwelk]

1. If you replace them and have the room, I'd use SCH80 bulkheads. I'd also glue every joint you make. Using a couple true unions will allow you to to tear it down and service the plumbing easier. I would also eliminate as many 90s as possible. I would use a gate valve on the drain, for finer adjustment if needed.

 

2. Again, I'd try to eliminate those if at all possible. Replace with 45s if you can.

 

3. You can use some flex PVC off the pump with a PVC fitting slip/thread into the hard PVC.

 

4. I'd really get rid of that Wye. Otherwise, you'll need a true union on either side.

[twan]

The WYE is to stop water from coming back down the return when the pump is off and flooding the sump.

The return is going to be lower then the drain in the tank and the sump water level is yet to be determined.

The WYE is extra insurance.

 

Thanks siwelk for your help.

I wanted to order this all online in one shot but I dont think that is going to happen.

Also with how close I am going to be in the back right corner I doubt I will be able to fit sch 80 bulkheads/unions/pipes.

 

I am going to sit in the aisle at Lowes this weekend for an hour looking at what sch 40 they have available and get my head around it.

Not buying anything yet.

[siwelk]

No problem.

Let me know if/when you pull that Wye from your system.

 

Plumbing really isn't that difficult, albeit intimidating at first.

The only thing I would order online are gate valves.

The rest of the SCH40 PVC fittings you should be able to find locally for cheap.

You probably can't use SCH80 fittings anyway since CAD has already drilled your holes.

[twan]

I can remove the WYE before I finalize all the plumbing. I need the tank to be delivered so I can judge the height of the return line exiting the overflow wall versus the height of the durso drain inside the overflow.

 

The tank should ship this Wednesday.

[siwelk]

I can remove the WYE before I finalize all the plumbing. I need the tank to be delivered so I can judge the height of the return line exiting the overflow wall versus the height of the durso drain inside the overflow.

 

The tank should ship this Wednesday.

How many inches do you suspect the return line to be below the water level?

[twan]

I have to wait and see what plumbing comes with my tank.

I spoke with Eddie today and he told my my invoice does not show any included plumbing or bulkheads.

Adam took my order, the same Adam that was fired / let go recently I read elsewhere.

[LouDog3]

What if you place the panels Vertical instead of horizontal so the hinge open like cabinet doors. Maybe that would be less weight, and easier to open. Also you could use some door hinges, maybe that would hold the weight better. Just some ideas off the top of my head.

[twan]

Looking @ Panel Mounting

 

I decided to mount the panels horizontal to allow more options for equipment placement as I see fit.

Hinges were used to get at the back of the panels to allow swapping in case of equipment upgrades or failure.

 

I also drilled a hole through the studs to allow me to run wires along the wall behind the tank.

This allows access to both sides of the tank through the wall for wires to run back to the panel.

I have not placed any equipment on the panel because I am awaiting a few more pieces.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[LouDog3]

Very nice

[tokendog]

Very nice! You'll be happy to hear your lights are all boxed up and just waiting to be shipped tomorrow! Oh, btw, there really isn't a "ballast" for the AI Sols. It's basically a laptop charger that's powering these things. I saw you mention light ballast earlier and just wanted to point that out.

 

It's very sleek and I believe most of the power stuff is stored in the actual light itself...I think that's why AI went with a heat sink on top of the lights, unlike Ecotech, who did make a separate ballast for their lights and therefore could make the profile of the lights thinner.

[twan]

Thanks LouDog3.

Tokendog I await your shipment eagerly! Keep me posted.

 

Lights - shipping today 2/29/12.

Skimmer - allegedly shipping today 2/29/12.

Tank - allegedly shipping today 2/29/12.

Sump - shipping Friday 3/2/12.

Stand - In talks with local guy for an ADA style stand, completed stand not expected for 3-4 weeks.

Plumbing - TBD