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Pump Predictions no one likes HEAD loss!


20,000geeksUNDERtheSEA

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20,000geeksUNDERtheSEA

Ok, so I'm planning on combining my 55 to my 29 cube with one sump to make one full system. I want to expand and have some more stable water, and I already have empty tanks laying around, so why not use em right?

 

Any how my question is.... being that my tanks are going to be set up in a somewhat adjacent fashion, my return pipe to my cube is probably going to have a few 90 and 45 degree bends along with a ball valve (if a ball valve is really necessary... info?). I used reef centrals head loss calculator with pure speculation of how my piping might go, speculating because I cant place my sump under until I build baffles, and I can't build baffles until I know the dimensions of my pump in skimmer and I cant figure out which pump to use because I'm not sure how to calculate the head loss.

 

originally I thought a rio 8hf would do the trick, leaving me with about 350 gph after head loss turning my 29g tank over 10 x . But Originally I didn't take in account for the bends.

 

below are the results I got from the head loss calculator which I'm not sure how to read. Is my flow now 125 gph or is that the number I subtract from the pumps original gph output?

 

are there any pumps for 30 and 55 gallons anyone would recommend for these two tanks?

 

 

Thanks for the help!

 

 

 

 

head loss calc.

post-49795-1327538568_thumb.jpg

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Its not a stupid question just not a simple answer. It really comes down to what you are keeping in the tank and how much water flow your are trying to achieve. once you know that I would just change the pump you are using in the calculator to narrow down your option for your return. you will to answer some other basic questions such as do you want internal or external pump, etc.

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You don't really want to rely on your return pump as your sole source of flow in your tanks. Once you incorporate a couple PHs in your tanks you should be good to go. As long as the water from your sump is making into the tanks, you'll be fine. I think the big obstacle you should be concentrating on is having the 2 overflows coming from the DTs into the sump match up with the ouput. You will def need a ball valve on each to synch the flows.

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+1 that the main source of flow in the tank should be from powerheads.

 

There is no "big obstacle" matching the overflows with the output from the sump. They are overflows and the amount of water that comes down them will be equal to the amount of water you pump into each tank (provided the return pump(s) is not over sized). Running two or more tanks on a sump is no different from running a single aquarium.

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There is no "big obstacle" matching the overflows with the output from the sump. They are overflows and the amount of water that comes down them will be equal to the amount of water you pump into each tank (provided the return pump(s) is not over sized). Running two or more tanks on a sump is no different from running a single aquarium.

 

Ok, "big obstacle" was prolly a poor choice of words, but I think most of us can attest that overflows and pumps arent usually plug-n-play. Atleast in my experience Ive always used a ball valve on the the overflow to fine tune the matchup with the return.

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I rely on my return pump for turbulence and flow, leaving zero equipment in the display, but there are several wrinkles to consider when attempting to do this and it is not recommended.

 

If this is really what you want, then consider a separate closed-loop with outlets near the bottom or middle of the tank. Pumping water in under water creates fantastic turbulence, but it comes at a serious cost of head pressure, requiring a powerful pump that will produce a lot of heat. Using a closed-loop for turbulence might require you add a chiller. Not a small investment.

 

The alternative would be to use an over powered return pump with the outlets positioned the same as above. That would be an open-loop, requiring a check-valve dependancy to prevent the display from draining to the sump and then your floor. A check-valve is not a reliable device and creating such a dependency is greatly discouraged. Plus, you'll still get a lot of heat. No way around that.

 

On the bright side, I never get anything caught in my powerheads. :]

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20,000geeksUNDERtheSEA

First of thank you for the replies, I'm just one of those guys who has to hear a bunch of feed back before making big decisions.

 

Although I would like to keep power heads down to a minimum in the dt, it's really not that big of a deal. Im using an eshopps 300 gph in my 30 gal. and will get one to suffice in my 55 as well. I understand to make sure the overflow can handle more than the pump. I guess I was making a big deal about the pump when I could just add power heads. Simple answer, I feel silly now....

 

I guess my major problem is designing my sump to be as efficient as possible with out all the all of the equipment (skimmer, 2 pumps, fuge, and return lines)

 

Does anyone have any experience with Reef Octopus 6 (150 Gallon)?

 

the 100g model is only $20 less so why not go with the more powerful one right?

 

This is the direction I'm thinking of going, and was wondering if anyone knew the recommended water level and how much sump room it will take up?

 

thanks again guys!

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