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When cycling my tank...?


chabooky386

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When cycling my tank the lights don't have to be on right? I am just putting in 30lbs of BRS rock in my tank and that's it. I am quite new to this so I was wondering how long would a "good" cycle be? 3 weeks ok?

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snowflake ell
When cycling my tank the lights don't have to be on right? I am just putting in 30lbs of BRS rock in my tank and that's it. I am quite new to this so I was wondering how long would a "good" cycle be? 3 weeks ok?

your lights should be on when cycling your tank . its not about how long your tank cycles for but its about your parameters are . put a dead peace of shrimp into your tank to help cycle your tank

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When cycling my tank the lights don't have to be on right? I am just putting in 30lbs of BRS rock in my tank and that's it. I am quite new to this so I was wondering how long would a "good" cycle be? 3 weeks ok?

 

I'd go to my LFS and buy a small piece of live rock to start your cycle and also ask for a scoop of live sand (most LFS will happily do this for you). I wouldn't recommend cycling with fish and/or shrimp to rot in your tank.

 

You can also keep your lights off during your cycle...there is no need for them to be on. The "general" timeframe is about a month--but you would need to test your parameters to confirm...

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Sure, ya can do no lights.

Using dry rock or LR? Dry rock may need a "kick start" (like rbaby said) to induce a cycle.

 

When Amm, Trites have spiked and then reached zero. Trates will be high and you'll see a diatom bloom that will go away on it's own to be replaced by some GHA. At this point, do a good sized WC with RO/DI water, wait a couple days, test the Amm, Trites and Trates ... all need to be ZERO.

 

After that, your good for a CUC.

 

A basic API test kid is your best friend for the next 6-12 months.

 

 

 

 

Another method is "Cycling with Ammonia" , but that's a little beyond for now.

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Sure, ya can do no lights.

Using dry rock or LR? Dry rock may need a "kick start" (like rbaby said) to induce a cycle.

 

When Amm, Trites have spiked and reached zero. Then Trates will be high and you'll see a diatom bloom that will go away on it's own to be replaced by some GHA. At this point, do a good sized WC with RO/DI water, wait a couple days, test the Amm, Trites and Trates ... all need to be ZERO.

 

 

After that, your good for a CUC.

 

Another method is "Cycling with Ammonia" , but that's a little beyond for now.

 

this guy said he was new, i'm not so sure he knows what all the acronyms and nicknames are,

if your using live rock and live sand, or using dead rock and a piece of dead something to kick start use your test kit and test your water once a week, your tank will turn colors,

it will be white for a while until the nitrites and nitrates spike,

then brown as diatom blooms form, it will look ugly but jest keep scraping the glass and being patient

then green as microalgae starts to form and out feed the diatoms,

then if all is well, purple and pink with beautiful coraline algae

 

this is what i test my tank at, and it's in pretty good shape (my test kit is aquarium pharmaceuticals master test kit, calcium test kit and the kits listed here.

 

Specific Gravity (Tested with a Deep Six Hydrometer)--------1.025

Ammonia--------------------------------------------0ppm (ppm is parts per million)

Nitrite-----------------------------------------------0ppm

Nitrate----------------------------------------------0ppm

PH (Phosphate Hardness-------------------------------8.1

GH -------------------------------------------------over 12

KH--------------------------------------------------over 12

Calcium---------------------------------------------460ppm

Phosphates, Silicates, and Copper are all 0ppm

 

a good book to read is the nano reef handbook by chris brightwell

 

i personally run the lights when i cycle a tank. Using live rock and live sand will definately speed the process up, without it cycling a tank could take up to 6 months! with it and you should have a well cycled tank in about 6 weeks, depending on the size of the tank, good luck and welcome to the hobby!

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Kudos to Fearless ...

 

When I was new, I had to figure all that out on my own ... lol

 

thanks Mojorizn

 

Don't worry in a year of doing this hobby he will be spitting out all kinds of jargon like he was born to the language :lol: :lol:

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So you would recommend me buying a live rock and some live sand to cycle my tank? The type of rock I got from BRS is this one http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/brs-re...m-eco-rock.html

 

I would just hate to buy something from the LFS and have some nasty critters follow into my new tank. And, also with my lights would I just leave them on for 8 hours at a time? Or leave them on all the time? Thanks for your guidance.

 

this guy said he was new, i'm not so sure he knows what all the acronyms and nicknames are,

if your using live rock and live sand, or using dead rock and a piece of dead something to kick start use your test kit and test your water once a week, your tank will turn colors,

it will be white for a while until the nitrites and nitrates spike,

then brown as diatom blooms form, it will look ugly but jest keep scraping the glass and being patient

then green as microalgae starts to form and out feed the diatoms,

then if all is well, purple and pink with beautiful coraline algae

 

this is what i test my tank at, and it's in pretty good shape (my test kit is aquarium pharmaceuticals master test kit, calcium test kit and the kits listed here.

 

Specific Gravity (Tested with a Deep Six Hydrometer)--------1.025

Ammonia--------------------------------------------0ppm (ppm is parts per million)

Nitrite-----------------------------------------------0ppm

Nitrate----------------------------------------------0ppm

PH (Phosphate Hardness-------------------------------8.1

GH -------------------------------------------------over 12

KH--------------------------------------------------over 12

Calcium---------------------------------------------460ppm

Phosphates, Silicates, and Copper are all 0ppm

 

a good book to read is the nano reef handbook by chris brightwell

 

i personally run the lights when i cycle a tank. Using live rock and live sand will definately speed the process up, without it cycling a tank could take up to 6 months! with it and you should have a well cycled tank in about 6 weeks, depending on the size of the tank, good luck and welcome to the hobby!

 

 

My tank is a 20 gallon long btw

 

this guy said he was new, i'm not so sure he knows what all the acronyms and nicknames are,

if your using live rock and live sand, or using dead rock and a piece of dead something to kick start use your test kit and test your water once a week, your tank will turn colors,

it will be white for a while until the nitrites and nitrates spike,

then brown as diatom blooms form, it will look ugly but jest keep scraping the glass and being patient

then green as microalgae starts to form and out feed the diatoms,

then if all is well, purple and pink with beautiful coraline algae

 

this is what i test my tank at, and it's in pretty good shape (my test kit is aquarium pharmaceuticals master test kit, calcium test kit and the kits listed here.

 

Specific Gravity (Tested with a Deep Six Hydrometer)--------1.025

Ammonia--------------------------------------------0ppm (ppm is parts per million)

Nitrite-----------------------------------------------0ppm

Nitrate----------------------------------------------0ppm

PH (Phosphate Hardness-------------------------------8.1

GH -------------------------------------------------over 12

KH--------------------------------------------------over 12

Calcium---------------------------------------------460ppm

Phosphates, Silicates, and Copper are all 0ppm

 

a good book to read is the nano reef handbook by chris brightwell

 

i personally run the lights when i cycle a tank. Using live rock and live sand will definately speed the process up, without it cycling a tank could take up to 6 months! with it and you should have a well cycled tank in about 6 weeks, depending on the size of the tank, good luck and welcome to the hobby!

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Related question, if the tank was cycled as he plans without any live rock or live sand will he get a diatom bloom? I would have guessed that RODI water was diatom free and there would be no diatom bloom until he added something from a tank.

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altolamprologus
Related question, if the tank was cycled as he plans without any live rock or live sand will he get a diatom bloom? I would have guessed that RODI water was diatom free and there would be no diatom bloom until he added something from a tank.

He'll still get a diatom bloom. Live stuff has a weird way of entering tanks.

 

 

 

BTW Fearlessmoto, pH stands for power of hydrogen, not phosphate hardness :)

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Related question, if the tank was cycled as he plans without any live rock or live sand will he get a diatom bloom? I would have guessed that RODI water was diatom free and there would be no diatom bloom until he added something from a tank.

 

cant say for certain (technically)

 

But yes, there should still be a diatom. (Re)started my 5g with all "dead" things. meaning dry sand, dry rock. Ro & salt. Let it go for a month. Got a diatom bloom. Did a 50% w/c, called it a day

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He'll still get a diatom bloom. Live stuff has a weird way of entering tanks.

 

 

 

BTW Fearlessmoto, pH stands for power of hydrogen, not phosphate hardness :)

 

 

oops, sorry It's been a long few days for me, (this is probably why saying PH is a lot easier)

 

the "reef saver rock is free of all parasites, but it's also free of life entirely. by the look of it it's just dry cleaned base rock, nothing live about it, BUT if you go to a LFS (Local fish store) and get a couple pounds of good Purple covered live rock (live meaning there is coralline algae, sponges, corals and whatnot growing on it) it will seed all this dead rock without having to pay $8 a pound! and will help your tank cycle faster. just make sure to buy the good quality purple stuff, not the brown stuff from the back of the tank, also it may help to add a macroalgae such as gracileria or calaurpa, its fairly cheap and if left in the tank or in a HOB (hang on the back) Refugium, will act as a natural filter to remove nitrates, phosphates and other unwanted nutrients.

 

photoperiod (the length of time your lights are on) depends on what kind of light your using

 

PC or NO fluorescent i would put on for 8-10 hours

 

T-5HO i put on 6-8 hours

 

MH are pretty intense and can be put on for only a couple hours with another light source for a couple hours befor and after the MH come on and go off.

 

LEDs are intense as well but i have no experience with them, there are

 

 

live sand is recommended, but you can get a 10lb bag at petsmart (or wherever) for like 15 dollars and use regular aragonite sand to fill the rest of the sandbed, the live sand will seed the sandbed, i would go about 2 inches deep for a 20L, i have about 3.5 inches in my 20l and i think it's too much.

 

 

If i need correcting on any points anyone feel free to jump in, i don't want to feed anyone bad info, thanks!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Using shrimp method, while effective may have also some negative sites: possibility of Saprolegnia infection or heterotrophic bacteria. Also the water gets cloudy and it stinks really bad.

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you do not need to have your lights on when cycling a tank.

you do not need to try to do anything to accelerate your cycle.

you could try to forget how boring the tank is with just a bunch of rocks in water.

 

of course you can choose not to do these things and have the lights on and add a shrimp.

The name of this hobby is patience grasshopper.

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Using shrimp method, while effective may have also some negative sites: possibility of Saprolegnia infection or heterotrophic bacteria. Also the water gets cloudy and it stinks really bad.

 

+1. Other potentially dangerous bacteria would be some Vibrio species (which includes the pathogen for cholera). Instead of waiting for a shrimp to rot, it's easier to add ammonia directly, such as in the form of ammonium chloride. Use proper safety precautions whenever handling ammonia.

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