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Coral Vue Hydros

Kat's Ol' Max


metrokat

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I have a cheap refractometer, it says that it compensates for temperature but I suppose I could test it out. It also turned out that I was calibrating wiht the 35ppt solution incorrectly so I believe my salinity was a little on the low side, not the high side and I did end up making it lower. It is at 1.022 now and I'm slowly getting it up.



The fuge in unique. We shall see how long it stays cute. :)

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Since you're on my thread I have a question about the porcelain crabs. I've noticed this twice now with different crabs. When they molt they seem to come back with less arms and legs than they did going in. I know you had lots of issues with the green porcelains not appearing after a molt, do you think the same thing was happening to them? I've lost 2 porcelains to molt, but before I lost them they came out from their molt with only one pincer or only one setae. They never emerged from the next molt. Any idea what could cause this? I have other crabs that molt just fine.

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Blast, so it's happening to anemone porcelains now too? I thought(and was hoping) that it was only an issue with the greens - maybe they are not fit to be in a reef setting and reef parameters.

Let me know which porcelains you lost. Were they the white ones or the Caribbean ones?

 

The missing appendages sound like big molting problems - where the crab was unable to molt successfully and remove the claw or mouth part from the molt safely. Or it could be something like another porcelain may have taken that appendage off in a fight right after the molt (when they are still soft.)

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It seems most compensate for temperature now. I have a $40 one and it advertises it does. I notice that it reads differently right after I put the water on and then about 30 seconds later. I always go with the 30 second sample.

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Blast, so it's happening to anemone porcelains now too? I thought(and was hoping) that it was only an issue with the greens - maybe they are not fit to be in a reef setting and reef parameters.

Let me know which porcelains you lost. Were they the white ones or the carrebean ones?

 

The missing appendages sound like big molting problems - where the crab was unable to molt successfully and remove the claw or mouth part from the molt safely. Or it could be something like another porcelain may have taken that appendage off in a fight right after the molt (when they are still soft.)

The Caribbean porcelain (Dingbat) is just fine. He doesn't molt very often but he's never lost appendages. It is the white ones that this is happening to. I do have a lot of crabs so it is possible that they are being attacked when then are soft right after a molt. But I also have a delicate boxer crab who seems to be doing well. I've lost 2 white porcelains. The two that I have now: one is whole, the other is badly handicapped but moves around the tank a lot, eats with a good appetite too.

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Is it possible that, with all these crustaceans, the demand for iodine exceeds supply? I know the CW is that all needed iodine comes from food, but I've personally seen lugol's iodine added to the tank immediately help a shrimp having trouble molting.. Just a thought.

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Is it possible that, with all these crustaceans, the demand for iodine exceeds supply? I know the CW is that all needed iodine comes from food, but I've personally seen lugol's iodine added to the tank immediately help a shrimp having trouble molting.. Just a thought.

It is possible. And I do add a couple of drops of lugols every month. It's a bottle Newman gave me.

 

I also have iodide which I add, and potassion, separately. I might have to get an iodine test to see if I have enough.

 

Maybe I should up the drops of lugols I put in. Or better to wait till I buy a test kit?

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So thats where my Kent Iodine went. I was wondering who I gave that to :P

 

Molting issues often do have to do with trace minerals that the crustacean needs. Hopefully you will have this solved. It must be that the corals are constantly competing with the other inverts for minerals, and somebody is going to get left out (maybe its the porcelains in this case.)

 

I'd wait for a test kit. Avoid problems with possible overdose.

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It is possible. And I do add a couple of drops of lugols every month. It's a bottle Newman gave me.

 

I also have iodide which I add, and potassion, separately. I might have to get an iodine test to see if I have enough.

 

Maybe I should up the drops of lugols I put in. Or better to wait till I buy a test kit?

I am uber cautious with the stuff, I add it when I think about it, but not more than half a drop (ask me how I get half a drop :P) every 3-4 weeks. Accurate testing is almost impossible from what I understand. Catch-22.

 

Hopefully someone with more expertise on crustaceans can chime in. I was going to say that if you're safely adding 2 drops/month now, 3 couldn't hurt... But then I considered that it's possible too much iodine could be causing molting issues also. :huh:

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Getting back to the temperature calibration question, all refractometers will read correctly as long as the sample and the refractometer are the same temp. This generally means waiting 10 seconds or so for the temperature to equalize between the sample and the glass as it equalizes. Longer if you've kept your refractometer in the freezer or something silly.

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Deleted User 3

I use my refractometer and then put the floating one in, and they're always the same reading, thats how I verify it ha ha ! :)

 

Longer if you've kept your refractometer in the freezer or something silly.

 

:lol:

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Oh, and I saw a RSM 650 today Kat and thought of you. While, I'm pretty sure if I ever go that big I wouldn't want to be constrained by an AIO, they look amazing in person. In fact I think I took a picture of it.

 

 

 

20121226_130701_zps98c0e322.jpg

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Oh, and I saw a RSM 650 today Kat and thought of you. While, I'm pretty sure if I ever go that big I wouldn't want to be constrained by an AIO, they look amazing in person. In fact I think I took a picture of it.

 

 

 

20121226_130701_zps98c0e322.jpg

:o I like that! I cant wait to go big, in a way. But it'll be years, whenever i build a house.

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Oh, and I saw a RSM 650 today Kat and thought of you. While, I'm pretty sure if I ever go that big I wouldn't want to be constrained by an AIO, they look amazing in person. In fact I think I took a picture of it.

20121226_130701_zps98c0e322.jpg

The S line is amazing, I often wonder how crazy I would get with that much space. I'm sure the scape in that tank was interesting. I have to say though, a year and half into keeping a reef, I have a new appreciation for tanks of all sizes. The constraints of a nano teaches you about coral placement, your choice in corals also has to be tempered. If I had to build a nano all over again, I would be far more selective about my corals and their placement.

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I can't agree with you more. I am trying to be really selective with the corals that go into the new 20L. And it's a bit frustrating sometimes because I'll see something that I really like, but know that it won't work in my tank.

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I can't agree with you more. I am trying to be really selective with the corals that go into the new 20L. And it's a bit frustrating sometimes because I'll see something that I really like, but know that it won't work in my tank.

Go to the tank index on my thread in the first post. Item #6.

:omgomgomg:

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Oh and I saw a 185G w/ no eurobrace today. Larger than the 175 (since it's not an AIO a decent amount larger), I really can't imagine filling an aquarium that big. I don't even know where you'd start outside of toss stuff in and wait 10 years.

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