Bazzar1986 Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 Its a 30g with a 10g sump/refuge and 35lbs of LR. Been Set up for 3 months, Cycled after about 4weeks added cuc at 6weeks, had a mini cycle that lasted a few days(amm only got to 0.1 if that). At 2months I added some randon zoas, an acan, candycane, and a freebe sps and everything has been doing great. Added a pair of clowns (one died 48hrs later) and a pair of peppermint shrimp for aptasia last friday 10-7 and now im seeing a ammonia spike. My current water is: 78f. 1.025sg PH-8.0 Amm-0.2 No2-0.05 No3-0 Going to do a 4 gal water change tomorrow. Other than keeping an eye on it is there any thing other than water changes I can do? Everything seems to be doing good, only feed the fish once a day and only what he will eat(literly one flake/mysis at a time lol). Fed the coral for the first time with some BRS reef chili this morning b4 the light came on and changed out the filter sock a few hours later. Im just a lil concerned about the ammonia not dropping yet. How High b4 it starts impacting corals? Will something like Instant Ocean Bio-Spira help me? Any Advice Will Be Greatly Appreciated. Thanks, Bryan Link to comment
jestep Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 Adding bio-spira or any active bacteria will lessen the cycle you are having now. Most likely there wasn't enough waste to keep enough bacteria levels up, so you are getting a second soft cycle which is pretty hard because there's a much larger bio load. Any detectable ammonia or nitrite will affect coral. They will usually close up when they start to get stressed. They may be fine if the amount stays low. If you have access to biospira I would personally add it right away. Link to comment
cruzH20polo Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 the water change will dilute the increase in inorganic nitrogen and the bacteria on the live rock/macro in your fuge should do the rest Link to comment
Bazzar1986 Posted October 13, 2011 Author Share Posted October 13, 2011 I dont have any Bio Spira on hand, I thought my LFS had some but i was wrong... Should I start doing water changes more offen til its over? Ive been doing 4 gal a week and its do tomorrow. Thanks Again Link to comment
lakshwadeep Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 First, ensure that your test kit is reliable. Your nitrite and nitrate values should be higher as the ammonia gets converted into those compounds. What is the brand/model? Have you tested your water at a store? If you have any ammonia above 0 ppm, you should be seeing severe problems. Corals are often more delicate than fish. 4 gallons out of a system of 40 gallons (10%) is not sufficient to significantly dilute your ammonia. You should try massive water changes on the order of 50% or more (make sure the new water matches all params like temp, salinity, and maybe pH). Remember, the more of the "old" tank water that remains after a water change, the less efficient your water changes will be in removing the original contaminants (i.e. the ammonia). Don't worry about bio-spira, which was designed for FW tanks. Link to comment
Dani3d Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 I cannot see the bottom of the tank but how deep is that sand bed? If it's too deep you might have anaerobic pocket in there eventually and that might release gas into your tank and kill everything. It's not something that is a problem short term, it is more a problem as the tank age and the organic matter accumulate, like after 2 years or so. For the ammonia, free toxic ammonia is more present with higher PH and higher temperature. I am wondering what could be causing this much ammonia in your tank and if it is temporary? Did something died recently? I would do a good water change, at least 50% to dilute that to an acceptable level if it does not fall on its own. Link to comment
Bazzar1986 Posted October 14, 2011 Author Share Posted October 14, 2011 lakshwadeep, Its the Red Sea marine kit, ive checked with an API ammonia kit also, and the LFS checked monday and I only had traces of ammonia (just a tinge of green on an API kit). I only have 2-5gal buckets to mix SW in so I will go out to wallyword today and get something bigger to mix more watter. Dani3d, The sand is 1.5-2.5" deep, I did loose a fish (was out within 5 mins) but it was due to PH shock I think. He went from 8.4 at the store to 7.8 in my tank (lesson learnd). I did start adding Seachem Reef Buff to raise PH up (about 0.1 a day) is this ok? Could the peppermints killing the aptasia be causing the amm? Thanks Again, Bryan Link to comment
Bazzar1986 Posted October 14, 2011 Author Share Posted October 14, 2011 Good News, I checked the ammonia this morning and it looks like its going down, No2 went up a bit , and the No3 is still 0. I am Running Chemipure Elite its been in about 6 weeks, Planning on replaceing at 8 weeks. Going to do my Water Change as soon as water is at temp. Ill check the levels again tomorrow and update again. Thanks Link to comment
jestep Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 Looks like you'll be ok. If the ammonia is gone already the nitrite shouldn't last more than a day or two. I might wait at this point on the water change until the nitrite is nitrate. That way you don't interrupt or prolong the soft cycle that's in progress. Link to comment
lakshwadeep Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 Red Sea tests are not very reliable; API is okay. For mixing large amounts of water, you can either get a large container (heavy duty trash cans are popular) or take out a large percentage and just keep mixing small batches until you reach the desired water level, again. As long as the pH is above 7.8, you don't need to worry about "low pH". Don't use a buffer; they rarely are needed in a normal tank. pH is a complicated parameter that often fluctuates in a new tank. Most (except for fish) things that die will not produce a noticeable ammonia spike. Link to comment
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