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BowieReefer84

Mikes DIY 24 CREE/Meanwell LED Build

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BowieReefer84

I have built a diy led system for my 29gal biocube. I will outline the build with parts, pictures, par ratings, and a couple growth shots.

 

PARTS

1. 12 CREE XP-G Cool white.

2. 12 CREE XR-E Royal Blue.

3. Drilled/tapped heatsink from rapidled. (HUGE THANKS TO MIKE AT RAPIDLED.COM)

4. Meanwell ELN-60-48D. Whites ON a dimmer.

5. Meanwell LPC-35-700. Blues not on a dimmer.

6. Power Cords.

7. Solderless connections.

8. Misc wire and wire nuts.

9. Upgraded fans for hood.

 

PICTURES

5737790801_0601ac3b73_z.jpg

wire on led by mteske1, on Flickr

5737790347_b4b30a684e_z.jpg

LED 1 by mteske1, on Flickr

5738343026_b5d199d3ac_z.jpg

LED 2 by mteske1, on Flickr

5738342474_1e6744ec9e_z.jpg

2010-11-10 15.23.35 by mteske1, on Flickr

5737789899_e46ec509e7_z.jpg

2010-11-10 15.23.48 by mteske1, on Flickr

5738342644_3fa6e66301_z.jpg

2010-11-10 19.57.54 by mteske1, on Flickr

5737790179_05e7baacb4_z.jpg

2010-11-10 21.39.36 by mteske1, on Flickr

To be continued...

 

PAR READINGS

 

The photo is with both the white and blue at full power (Note - The 1900 is higher than in the picture. It is at the very top of my tank):

5738343366_435e2aa72d_b.jpg

par by mteske1, on Flickr

 

****WHITE & BLUE PAR READINGS SEPARATELY AT FULL POWER****

 

Whites:

Top Center = 700

Middle Left/Right = 150

Middle Center = 380

Bottom = 140

 

Blues:

Top Center = 600

Middle Left/Right = 100

Middle Center = 330

Bottom = 100

 

My whites are XP-G R5's which ARE STRONGER than the blue XR-E's. It is surprising the blues are very very close to the same PAR as the whites. I bet white and blue XR-E's would be equal based on my testing.

 

If you are doing a diy go for the color you want, and do not assume you need the whites for the high PAR numbers.

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bensanders

Sweet!

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BowieReefer84

COLOR SPECTRUM FROM BLUE TO WHITE

5554244446_d20677fa9e_z.jpg

6 by mteske1, on Flickr

5554244548_2c85258d59_z.jpg

5 by mteske1, on Flickr

5553660193_c2765b8a6f_z.jpg

4 by mteske1, on Flickr

5554244898_1c7449069c_z.jpg

3 by mteske1, on Flickr

5554244250_3e5c25b146_z.jpg

2 by mteske1, on Flickr

5553659837_f5c59ca961_z.jpg

1 by mteske1, on Flickr

 

GROWTH OF SUNSET MONTI AND TYREE SETOSA MONTI OVER A FEW MONTHS

5737790281_33a0bee31c_z.jpg

2011-01-03 18.25.57 by mteske1, on Flickr

5738343080_eb8a33687c_z.jpg

P1000543 by mteske1, on Flickr

5708327421_b4982e2181_z.jpg

P1010045 by mteske1, on Flickr

 

5738342424_931e40ab83_z.jpg

11.23-9 by mteske1, on Flickr

5737790265_6fe0eb744b_z.jpg

2010-12-20 20.18.30 by mteske1, on Flickr

5738342914_2b3dc2e810_z.jpg

2011-02-01 18.37.22 by mteske1, on Flickr

5708893334_1fd6a28346_z.jpg

P1010041 by mteske1, on Flickr

 

Let me know if you have any questions, opinions, ideas, etc. I am trying to put together a thread to help others decide what route to take.

 

ENJOY,

Mike

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BowieReefer84
Sweet!

Thanks, you need to see the bottom half the post. You are too quick!

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SmokeyMcreefer

That looks awesome. How much did the whole thing cost and did you do anything with your fans?

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Tyron

Made that black heatsink is slick! Too bad it's covered, but that's me. How exactly do those solderless connectors work? Thought about using them on my build. I like it though. Real slick!

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BowieReefer84
That looks awesome. How much did the whole thing cost and did you do anything with your fans?

I think I am into it around $325 or so? I lost track to be honest. Also, I originally did NOT have the whites on a dimmer. I had to buy another driver to dim them. Also, had a buddy wire up the pot and stuff to make it actually dim. I am not good with that stuff.

 

I also upgraded the fans from rapidled. Just a simple swap. No heat issues, but they do get warm. Tank runs at 79, which is where I have it set.

 

Made that black heatsink is slick! Too bad it's covered, but that's me. How exactly do those solderless connectors work? Thought about using them on my build. I like it though. Real slick!

Yea, rapidled had the black heatsink tapped and drilled a while back. Not sure if they still stock them? Basically with the solderless connections you can NOT use optics. Also, you MUST have your heatsink tapped and drilled. The screw that holds the led down also holds the plastic solderless connection down. You just push the wire into the connection. It's really simple. You just have to use solid core wire.

 

Anything else?

Edited by BowieReefer84

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SmokeyMcreefer

Did rapid have the heat sink to fit the hood or did you buy a regular one and mod it?

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BowieReefer84
Did rapid have the heat sink to fit the hood or did you buy a regular one and mod it?

They had it like that. I didn't modify anything, the holes lined up. I don't see it on their site anymore though.

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latteslave

So what are you running the LEDs at? Still full blast on both?

 

Thanks

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BowieReefer84

Blues on full blast, and whites at maybe 50%. Maybe less. I like a 20k look.

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evilc66

Add it to the list.

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BowieReefer84
Add it to the list.

 

What list?

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africaturtle

I'm actually trying to decide whether to go for LEDs or not, and your post really makes it look feasable and easy (esp. w/ the soderless connections).

 

Do you know how many lumens those cree leds develop? I'm planning a set up for a 15 gallons, do you think that half the leds would be enough? (I'm not considering using adding a dimming system)

 

Nice job! Your tank seems to have been thriving ever since.

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evilc66

LED data is readily available on the manufacturers website.

 

The number of LEDs required is defined by the footprint of the tank, not the volume.

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BowieReefer84
I'm actually trying to decide whether to go for LEDs or not, and your post really makes it look feasable and easy (esp. w/ the soderless connections).

 

Do you know how many lumens those cree leds develop? I'm planning a set up for a 15 gallons, do you think that half the leds would be enough? (I'm not considering using adding a dimming system)

 

Nice job! Your tank seems to have been thriving ever since.

Thriving is an overstatement, but thank you. A lot of my acro frags are stn, and I think it was due to high phosphates. No pests, and I keep inspecting and dipping.

 

You really need to go off the dimensions to see how many you would need, and what type of corals you are stocking. I don't want to give you a number without more information. I would say do NOT mix coral types in a small tank. Pick zoas and mushrooms, or lps, or sps. It is too hard to meet the demands of all in such a small volume of water.

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BowieReefer84

Here is a current shot of the sunset. Check out the growth!

 

5934973127_dcff3370fb_b.jpg

P1010336 by mteske1, on Flickr

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on_ice

Where did you buy most of your parts?

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BowieReefer84
Where did you buy most of your parts?

RAPIDLED is where I got all my parts.

 

I have since changed my 50/50 ratio of cb/rw

 

I added some warm white, neutral white, and blues... Still have 24 total.

 

Updated growth shot.

6183561440_c17e6eae32_b.jpg

P1010877 by mteske1, on Flickr

 

Just fragged the bottom of the sunset.

Edited by BowieReefer84

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Mojorizn

What are you running your string at? mA wise?

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