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Peroxide saves my Tank! With pics to Prove It!


Reef Miser

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sorry for the slow reply..but here are a few details...20l mixed softies and lps..i birdnest...encrusting sponge and white lightning,..coco worm and feather duster...36w pc...lr and ls..

couple small patches of gha.some on small rock and some on big coral covered 8 lb rock..

 

6-4-12...shut off flow...removed 3g sw...removed 2 xenia frags placed in some of removed sw (forgot to remove red macro algae..doh!!).....removed 2 small 1 inch rubble and i 4 inch piece with 2 small galaxea teeth frags and 1 small kenya tree....treated 3 small 1 inch areas on big lr while in tank with 2 ml shot directly onto the patches , 1 patch on the mollusk...placed 4 inch lr in removed sw and directly treated patches here with 10ml p in 640z sw..also added rubble and clove coral frag..let sit for 5 mins added 3g new sw back to tank and restored flow..reset lr and xenia....(dipped stalk of xenia frag in the 10ml solution without submerging xenia)

no immediate dramatic dieback of treated areas on tank treated rock and only a little better on the removed lr and frag...no noticeable response showing on corals and fish and shrimp or macro algae or chaeto,,,in tank or the galaxea and kenya tree small feather duster energed for a while, coco worm was new and hiding before treatment..xenia ok too

 

 

6-5-12...gha looking weaker but still green...repeated treatment, this time removing chaeto and macro too..removed 1g sw...used 5ml in tank and 15ml in half gallon for the rubble and frag...all ok aftr reset..kenya looks grumpy but he did inflate a little...been i hr now,, all ok ..lights out actinic only. xenias out and pulsing. clove polyps in 15ml dip grumpy but intact, not open

..will post pics of before and after soon

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Frax thanks for stopping in

 

Its a tough call on treating the mollusc I just can't recall any data on that

 

That red you want to preserve looks nice I can see how it adds variation to your scape

 

The smallest offering id give is to try and break the treatments up into small sections vs all at once to minimize residual leftovers that could stress those non targets, and changes of fresh salt water during this run if you don't mind being overly safe

 

When I dose a fair bit of 35%as a drain and treat into my packed 1 gallon vase, I refill the tank back up to kick the peroxide from the treated spot back into solution, its now briefly burning the whole tank technically. Since I don't have any of the known sensitives it might be fine as is

 

 

But for safety, immediately upon refill I drain it all down and refill with new water, leaving none in solution

 

If you can brainstorm ways to modify a similar approach its your safest bet.

 

If you kill targets while preserving your two sensitive non targets I'll spread that around it will be helpful for others to see

 

 

 

Nice to meet you

B

sorry for the slow reply and i appreciate the encouragement....i m no expert but definitely a well read noob...dont have the resources to get too extreme with some of the equipment costs but gradually improve where i can..I get a lot of relevant info on this site ..pretty reluctant to do too much dosing without a lot of equipment...this is my first time, unless you count "fuel"

Frax

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sorry for the slow reply..but here are a few details...20l mixed softies and lps..i birdnest...encrusting sponge and white lightning,..coco worm and feather duster...36w pc...lr and ls..

couple small patches of gha.some on small rock and some on big coral covered 8 lb rock..

 

6-5-12...shut off flow...removed 3g sw...removed 2 xenia frags placed in some of removed sw (forgot to remove red macro algae..doh!!).....removed 2 small 1 inch rubble and i 4 inch piece with 2 small galaxea teeth frags and 1 small kenya tree....treated 3 small 1 inch areas on big lr while in tank with 2 ml shot directly onto the patches , 1 patch on the mollusk...placed 4 inch lr in removed sw and directly treated patches here with 10ml p in 640z sw..also added rubble and clove coral frag..let sit for 5 mins added 3g new sw back to tank and restored flow..reset lr and xenia....(dipped stalk of xenia frag in the 10ml solution without submerging xenia)

no immediate dramatic dieback of treated areas on tank treated rock and only a little better on the removed lr and frag...no noticeable response showing on corals and fish and shrimp or macro algae or chaeto,,,in tank or the galaxea and kenya tree small feather duster energed for a while, coco worm was new and hiding before treatment..xenia ok too

 

 

6-6-12...gha looking weaker but still green...repeated treatment, this time removing chaeto and macro too..removed 1g sw...used 5ml in tank and 15ml in half gallon for the rubble and frag...all ok aftr reset..kenya looks grumpy but he did inflate a little...been i hr now,, all ok ..lights out actinic only. xenias out and pulsing. clove polyps in 15ml dip grumpy but intact, not open

..will post pics of before and after soon

 

6-7-12...gha weakened further but still green...all lr tiny bit cleaner maybe..all creatures ok....dusters acting a little wierd but alive and responsive..xenias ok..water and corals seem to brighten up after last 2 treatments ...i know the corals pretty well and they really seem pretty normal... even the dipped clove and galaxea and kenya tree...mollusk on in tank rock alive and normal...

did notice fresh algae still growing on glass...and i think it has hurt the red macro...i cant really tell,but it looks like his base mat is white ( unfortunately, i didnt think to check this mat before).. ocassionally a few leaves would let loose but seems like its losing more.. it was starting to do this a little before the treatment..foliage not dying yet and i will re-anchor it down and i have access to more if i lose it...

 

5 pm,,, braver , maybe stupid... but today i turned off flow and treated gha directly with joes juice syringe in the tank with 5ml peroxide (using 3% sol).. also dipped blastomussa wellsii frag in 1 part p + 2 parts sw

 

6pm....minor reaction from zoas and palys and gsp and clove...welsii clean but ugly, bloated and full of bubbles, but intact

 

8pm... all back to normal, coco worm out halfway but alive and responsive...wellsii better than ever

 

pics later

 

so far so good.. i hope this all isnt too boring , but i read a lot to get here too...i plan to remove as much lr as i can and dip into a 50/50 this weeken..have a few " dirty rocks after recent tank move'' fuzz on those lr next

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Okay, so I have a picture in the POTM, and iball told me to peroxide dip, since it is evident in the picture that I have quite a bit of algae. The first thing I thought of was: How the heck do I do that?

 

Anyways, this forum is my saving grace.

 

I'm going to peroxide dip, but I'm wondering: How strong was the peroxide? 3%? 6%?

 

I believe I have a 6% bottle in my bathroom at the moment.

Edited by numbus
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brandon429

I use 35% its the application technique relative to what's in the tank is what matters it will all kill a target

 

Would you repost pic here so we can collect pics

In earlier pages we mention favorite approaches like emersed spot treatments outside the tank, for whole rock dip approaches id use diluted 3%

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I use 35% its the application technique relative to what's in the tank is what matters it will all kill a target

 

Would you repost pic here so we can collect pics

In earlier pages we mention favorite approaches like emersed spot treatments outside the tank, for whole rock dip approaches id use diluted 3%

 

Sounds good, thank you. :)

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Actually, another quick question (probably last one): Do you think this will kill Aptasia as well?

 

I have one little Aptasia guy, and he's been in the tank for two years and still hasn't reproduced or spread yet, but want to get rid of him just in case.

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brandon429

We don't have any examples of that in here, I've read online of people doing that. Since peroxide wouldn't kill my intended red mushrooms I never tried it on other anems, I just fire burn them out its a for sure. Lift out rock they are on, use a soot-less blue jet flame lighter and zap em five seconds

 

 

You can fire burn anything you don't want, I've burnt every known reef pest

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albertthiel

Nice results and glad it worked indeed as i know it goes from experience :) but one has to be careful ineed not to overdo it and not to do it too often either.

 

Great result indeed !

 

Albert

 

 

I had been hearing about the use of Hydrogen Peroxide as a way to deal with pest algae, so I figured that I would give it a try. I had a nasty case of bryopsis and had tried everything you can imagine to beat it. I tried new bulbs, nudibranchs, chaeto, a seahare (RIP), Tech-M, new RO filter.

 

I can tell you that I am a firm believer in H2O2!!! This is how it went down.

 

I was really nervous about dosing my whole tank, so I started small. I started by taking out a small rock without coral on it and dipping it in a small bowl of tank water with a couple of "glugs" of H2O2. I let it sit for a couple of minutes and then put it back in the tank. It killed some bristle worms (while in the bowl) and it killed all the algae after a couple of days of being back in the tank, but the coralline algae seemed ok.

 

Next I repeated this with a rock with a shroom on it. Algae died, shroom didn't. Success!

 

Next I tried dosing the whole tank. I started by adding 15mL of h2o2 to the tank (20 gallon nano with ~8 gallons in the sump.) by syringe once a day. I injected it directly into patches of algae. The algae died, but some corals were starting to stress out after a couple of days, so I stopped. This was too harsh.

 

I figured that maybe I could get it under control if I dipped all of my LR. I started with rocks with shrooms and zoas, before dipping my acan lord colony. My procedure has been to use the old water from a water change immediately after the change, add some h2o2 to the bucket and put in a few of the rocks in for a few minutes, then put them back in the tank. The next day, the bryopsis gets white and starts to die off. After each treatment, the bryopsis gets weaker and weaker until it is gone. I don't do all of my rocks at once, because of the amount of die-off. As the bryosis dies (and collateral microfauna damage) all those nutrients are released into the tank.

 

All of the progress I have made has been solely through water changes and peroxide dips. I haven't done any picking or scrubbing of rock. So far the only coral that was lost was xenia. It didn't tolerate the dips.

 

I was so close to breaking down this tank. It is great to see it getting back under control.

 

And now here are the pics to prove it. I am not completely free, but I would say I am well on my way.

 

5603083833_7a378acfac_z.jpg

IMG_2709 by Reef Miser, on Flickr

 

5603086673_2d9318b894_z.jpg

IMG_2710 by Reef Miser, on Flickr

 

5603091323_6143a9a0f5_z.jpg

P1050252 by Reef Miser, on Flickr

 

5603089807_9d5de8ecc8_z.jpg

P1050253 by Reef Miser, on Flickr

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brandon429

Albert I wondered if you'd find this gem of a thread lol

I read on your blog about the use of perchlorate in battling slime algae and regardless of the origination source in the end its still oxygen being harnessed isn't it...

Reefmiser did a great job engaging the discussion and posting shocking results that really turned my own reef around as well and got me on board the o2 train. It was previously assumed that use in small bodies would be disastrous...

 

its really a fantastic dichotomy among reef aquarists what is acceptable and what they fear, and its neat to watch attitudes evolve.

 

Although the aquaculture/pond/lake maintenance industry has been using sludge digesters for decades and we've been using ozone for as long, there are still fierce theory battles online about the harm in trying a little peroxide lol

 

One of the greatest debates is that endpoint kill of algae does nothing to prevent the source of fuel (detractors recommend heavy nutrient stripping vs target kill) and that always strikes me as a funny bandaid too, as the only way to stop the source is to have no life or feed input in a barren glass wall tank with only water lol. The feed we add is the primary source of the problem!

If someone wants to continuously renew phosphate stripping media, or dose a little peroxide every few months and the results are the same, what in the world is the difference right?

 

Up until this point I have never seen a more convenient method for cheating a small tank clean. As soon as one is found i'm sure we will move on...

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Nice results and glad it worked indeed as i know it goes from experience :) but one has to be careful ineed not to overdo it and not to do it too often either.

 

Great result indeed !

 

Albert

++ on that..reef misers approach is the one inspired me to try

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6-7-12...gha weakened further but still green...all lr tiny bit cleaner maybe..all creatures ok....dusters acting a little wierd but alive and responsive..xenias ok..water and corals seem to brighten up after last 2 treatments ...i know the corals pretty well and they really seem pretty normal... even the dipped clove and galaxea and kenya tree...mollusk on in tank rock alive and normal...

did notice fresh algae still growing on glass...and i think it has hurt the red macro...i cant really tell,but it looks like his base mat is white ( unfortunately, i didnt think to check this mat before).. ocassionally a few leaves would let loose but seems like its losing more.. it was starting to do this a little before the treatment..foliage not dying yet and i will re-anchor it down and i have access to more if i lose it...

 

5 pm,,, braver , maybe stupid... but today i turned off flow and treated gha directly with joes juice syringe in the tank with 5ml peroxide (using 3% sol).. also dipped blastomussa wellsii frag in 1 part p + 2 parts sw

 

6pm....minor reaction from zoas and palys and gsp and clove...welsii clean but ugly, bloated and full of bubbles, but intact

 

8pm... all back to normal, coco worm out halfway but alive and responsive...wellsii better than ever

 

pics later

 

so far so good.. i hope this all isnt too boring , but i read a lot to get here too...i plan to remove as much lr as i can and dip into a 50/50 this weekend..have a few " dirty rocks after recent tank move'' fuzz on those lr next

 

 

6-8-12...gha even weaker and pale grayish green ....rock looking a little cleaner too..,less fuzz on lr bryopsis or dinos, not sure...all creatures normal...xenia still ok..coco worm out for first time in 3 days last night and has been in and out mostly normal, not fully expanded but intact and healthy....blastomussa wellsii that was dipped in 1part p-2 parts sw sol is better colored and bigger than ever,bubbles gone..

left some algae on tank wall, still green...seems like cyano is unaffected

 

no treatment today ...final assault tomorrow,gonna dip lr clear of coral in 3% p, maybe full strength + scrub,,,gonna remove some xenia and other sensitives and dose whole tank at 15 ml (in 17-18g sw)

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6-8-12...gha even weaker and pale grayish green ....rock looking a little cleaner too..,less fuzz on lr bryopsis or dinos, not sure...all creatures normal...xenia still ok..coco worm out for first time in 3 days last night and has been in and out mostly normal, not fully expanded but intact and healthy....blastomussa wellsii that was dipped in 1part p-2 parts sw sol is better colored and bigger than ever,bubbles gone..

left some algae on tank wall, still green...seems like cyano is unaffected

 

no treatment today ...final assault tomorrow,gonna dip lr clear of coral in 3% p, maybe full strength + scrub,,,gonna remove some xenia and other sensitives and dose whole tank at 15 ml (in 17-18g sw)

 

 

6-9-12..all creatures ok...gha fading further...

 

8:30 am....major assault today on remaining gha and whatever the fuzz is on some lr that was overturned and reset..

removed xenia,sun coral, red macro algae...removed 4g sw...slowly took down setup to get to as much uunpopulated lr as possible...placed in 1 qt of straight 3% peroxide (96 cents) and let soak while treating tank....with flow off, spot treated small areas of gha with a total of 20ml...brushed and rinsed removed lr after it soaked for over 10 mins...brushed accessible patches in tank,,,,placed dipped lr back in tank...added 4g new sw...added removed corals..new setup...

 

10 am..definite reaction from many corals in the tank...some from the reset but some look bad...pays and zoas usually open sooner after disturbed,,kenya tee grumpy...birdnest pissed...toadstool scrunching up strangely...all others ok and normal...creatures ok...

 

lr dipped in straight 3% squeaky clean and purple, fuzz all gone, i can actually see a line where i stopped dipping part of a lr, ...brushed lr in tank very clean and purple....i hadnt seen my mollusc in weeks, he is feeding well and gew a little!!! grinning at me right out front..coco worm happier still...

 

heading out for more sw and lunch and work...

 

3pm...returned ,,tank clean , corals less grumpy but not right yet.. another 4g water change..adjust reset of lr..grumpy corals back to normal, even the toadstools...

 

7pm...final adjustment of lr rest (is it just me that takes so long to get it just right? lol )...all creatures ok, tank much cleaner..i m tired..pics later when tank settles out tommorrow..

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Frax one thing about your timeline, gha across multiple peroxide threads has shown a complete dieoff time of about 30 hours I wonder why yours is taking a few days, was it a new bottle? Even the diluted runs have the same kill time time that was interesting..

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6-10-12.. hello to all..Brandon, yes i did use new peroxide, gha was probably dead early on, i just hadnt tooth brushed it...

 

no treatment today, i m trying to give the tank a break, was in and out of it for 6hrs+ yesterday...most creatures look normal or a little better xenia slightly off, a little skinnier stems than usual but inflated and pulsing..lr much cleaner throughout tank, dipped pieces very clean , bleached out some purple but they will recover...h202 great for gha but also the grey fuzz that was on some of my rocks..i would post more pics but my camera doesnt show too fine details ... i can show the corals survived ,but here goes.. this is how things some things looked 24 hrs after 20ml in 20l tank and other lr dipped in full strength 3% peroxide for 5 mins...brushed where possible with tooth brush

 

post-71835-1339357619_thumb.jpg this rock was covered with fuzz post-71835-1339357748_thumb.jpg

post-71835-1339357795_thumb.jpg post-71835-1339357819_thumb.jpg

 

post-71835-1339358586_thumb.jpg fts

post-71835-1339357856_thumb.jpg

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albertthiel

Yes slight amount in water chemistry e.g. temp, s.g., etc will make corals close up for a short period of time IME as well but then thanks to the improved Water Quality when they re-open they often look even better than they did before the water change was done ...

 

I have seen it happen also when changing carbon ... old saturated carbon really does not remove anything anymore or very little and when new GAC is put in the filtrate system the animals sense the difference in the water quality, may or may not close up and then look a lot better once they adapt to the new water conditions. Thanks for posting the before and after pics.

 

Can happen when you clean a skimmer too IME.

 

Albert

 

 

post-71835-1339358898_thumb.jpg....this is blastomussa wellsii 5 mins after 1 part p-2 parts sw dip...full of air bubbles

post-71835-1339359309_thumb.jpg today normal

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albertthiel

Sorry but this is a long reply to your post and may digress into some other interesting topics especially historical ones about the hobby ... forgive me for doing so.

 

Now to your Post: Not sure which of my articles you read Brandon429, as I wrote quite a few on this topic, but my experience has been that peroxide or similar oxidizing agents will indeed benefit the water quality and improve the overall look of the tank, meaning the animals (all types).

 

I have to seen Reefmeister's post ... do you have a link for it as I would certainly like to read it. Not sure what thread it was posted in and it did not come up in my inbox as a new thread posted so if you have a link to it that you can send me I would really appreciate it.

 

I agree that hobbyists have a two-fold vue of these kind of treatments ...: some love them and others are fearful of them and never try any, and others yet are fearful of using them but a number of them, at some point in time, do try one of the methods either H2O2, or perchlorate (HClO4), a strong acid that one is for sure stronger in fact that sulphuric and nitric acids ... and both of those are strong!

 

It obviously all comes down to using the right dosage ... and what that correct is amounts to, IME, depends on the tank size and the total amount of water in the system (that includes sumps and fugues and the like), the load, and anything that affects the water quality. The amount to use has to be established for each aquarium before one starts and since that is kind of hard to calculate, if at all possible for hobbyists this has to be approached a little differently.

 

The best way I have found how this can be done is to start with real small doses, and then observe what goes on in the tank, maybe do some measurements of water quality, and then ... wait a few hours at least, and then add a little more and observe again, and repeat this method over and over again ... spacing applications of whatever is used by at least 3 to 4 hours each time ... allowing whatever was added to be nullified in its effect by the reactions that take place between it and what is in the water that it reacts with.

 

Your point Brandon is well taken ... the dichotomy on how these treatments are viewed exists even to this day, even though I have seen many references to the use of several acids and oxidizers as far back as in the books by Guido Huckstedt in in Aquarienchemie one of this books published in German in 1976 believe it or not ... and that is even before my time of getting in the hobby first as a reef keeper (around 1979) and then as a manufacturer and wholesaler.

 

As as side note:

 

Huckstedt actually introduced the notion of skimmers in that book, as well and in another one of his books, he also advocated the use of GAC ... and much more ...

 

Unfortunately most of his ideas were kind of lost, as at the time he brought them forth the saltwater aquarium hobby was in its initial stages of acceptance, even in Germany, which in so many cases has been at the forefront of whatever new techniques were introduced (a more recent example would be the Berlin Method of course, although its origin is attributed to so many different hobbyists and authors that it is hard to say who was really first :)

 

Peter Wilkens, also from Germany, drew heavily on Huckstedt's experiences and became known as the Godfather of reef keeping ... with Huckstedt unfortunately never getting the credit that he deserves IMHO.

 

Here is what Reefbuilders.com had to say about the now late Peter Wilkens ....

 

"Whether you keep a Berlin Reef, Ecosystem Aquarium, Algae Turf Scrubber or filter free nano tank, we as aquarists owe a great debt to the pioneering work Wilkens provided towards our basic understanding of keeping marine invertebrates in aquaria.

 

Peter Wilkens was the first to discover the need to replenish calcium through adding Kalkwasser, the benefits of protein skimming and the use of pelletized activated carbon to clean aquarium water.

 

Many of his other great contributions to the global hobby of reef keeping can be read in his full memorium on AA. (sic) and they add : Other noteworthy articles in AA this month include Dana Riddle’s continuation of coral reproduction, Ken Feldsman’s second article on Total Organic Carbon in the reef aquarium and Micro-Ecosystems by Jay Hemdal. (sic) not sure whether they also carry articles by another great hobbyist and researcher: Sanjay Joshi ... His actual website is a little hard to find but here is a link to what looks like his :

Sanjay Joshi's Site Link

 

On Wilkens you can read more on: Visit My Reefbuilder's Site

 

I do agree with the Reef Builders evaluation of Peter's accomplishments of course, but do want to point out that a lot of what he advocated could already be found, as I stated, in Guido Hueckstedt's books published years before Wilkens' excellent ones on Invertebrates and on aquarium keeping in general.

 

Whereas Hueckstedt laid what I would call the foundation and put the ideas forth, e.g. the use of Kalkwasser, protein skimmers, even Redox Potential and its importance and measurement, etc. he did not go into a lot of detail and thanks to Wilkens and his further research all of that was explained in far more detail with examples of his usage of the methods and the results he came up with.

 

Guess history repeats itself if indeed hobbyists are starting to use the methods again.

 

Caution: anyone using these methods must make sure that they follow the recs made above about quantity and spacing of time between additions to the aquarium ...

 

Sorry for having drifted off what your post was about but I thought that a little historical info would be beneficial and may not be known to many hobbyists who have not read those books and/or articles and may not even have heard the names ...

 

Since I am on "books", TFH Publications (David Axelrod) published a book which I have, called Sea-water Systems for Experimental Aquariums that contains articles by advanced hobbyists such as Altz, Thomas, Hoar, Barriety, Wisby, Talbot and many more, and that was published as far as I can tell as the book I have is missing a few pages up front, in 1965 (I had to look that up on the Net and noticed that Amazon lists a few used ones of them).

 

It's a great book on how a lot of what we do now started, of course many many improvements have been made since but I always feel that an educated hobbyist should know much more than what is being practiced today, and should ideally be aware of the beginnings of where many of the present day techniques originated and how they were developed and perfected.

 

In fact, in my first book "The Marine and Invert Reef Aquarium" I refer to a lot of what I wrote above ... giving quite a few of those listed credit for introducing those methods and ideas.

 

BTW although I only have a few copies left of my own books, I see that Amazon does have all of them for sale in used condition .. not that I am saying people should buy them, but anyone interested can still get them if they wish.

 

The first edition of the NMFIRA as it became known was published in 1988 ... wow can hardly believe it is that long ago ... and we went through 9 different printings, with changes made to the content as time went along ... and if my memory serves me well we sold over 60 000 copies of that first book ! I guess in those days when the aquarium hobby here in the US was nowhere near where it now is, that was a great success ...

 

But enough on all of that I guess ...

 

All I can say is that hobbyists IMO need to be open to new ideas and new techniques and experiment ... but become knowledgeable about those techniques before doing so in order to avert and prevent disaster situations because they did not apply the method correctly.

 

Sorry for having made my response so long and I hope I answered your questions and statements Brandon

 

Albert

 

 

 

Albert I wondered if you'd find this gem of a thread lol

I read on your blog about the use of perchlorate in battling slime algae and regardless of the origination source in the end its still oxygen being harnessed isn't it...

Reefmiser did a great job engaging the discussion and posting shocking results that really turned my own reef around as well and got me on board the o2 train. It was previously assumed that use in small bodies would be disastrous...

 

its really a fantastic dichotomy among reef aquarists what is acceptable and what they fear, and its neat to watch attitudes evolve.

 

Although the aquaculture/pond/lake maintenance industry has been using sludge digesters for decades and we've been using ozone for as long, there are still fierce theory battles online about the harm in trying a little peroxide lol

 

One of the greatest debates is that endpoint kill of algae does nothing to prevent the source of fuel (detractors recommend heavy nutrient stripping vs target kill) and that always strikes me as a funny bandaid too, as the only way to stop the source is to have no life or feed input in a barren glass wall tank with only water lol. The feed we add is the primary source of the problem!

If someone wants to continuously renew phosphate stripping media, or dose a little peroxide every few months and the results are the same, what in the world is the difference right?

 

Up until this point I have never seen a more convenient method for cheating a small tank clean. As soon as one is found i'm sure we will move on...

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interesting history of the dosing possibilities..I am reluctant to do much dosing or other things to my set up due to lack of test kits and easy access to sw...i am a horticulturist/arborist by profession and i m surprised at how coral culture has similar basic principles...dosing for gha is like treating a lawn for weeds without killing the turf, too little wont work, too much will kill everything...in the middle works, but some things might be stressed...current environmental (tank) conditions and flora/fauna will affect outcome...to standardize these procedures would take the same amount of research and development it takes to produce a useful chemical..years...

for me the hardest thing to figure out was how much to use per dose...i would probably go a little stronger in the future...i wont dose regularly due to xenia and macro algae

 

i m only a noob but here goes

 

for MY 20L ...dosed 2ml-day 1/ 3g wc...5ml-day 2/1g wc....0-day 3... 20ml-day 4/4g wc.(6-9)

 

had just a couple small patches gha to start and dirty lr after reset.. minor cyano here and there

 

(6-11)...gha gone..tank and water much cleaner..brushed rocks cleanest, were covered with clingy grey fuzz...all creatures ok and pretty happy, ..no losses..lot less cyano today..all fed today..some new algae on glass

 

coral list...mushrooms, ricordea, galaxea, cauleustrea,palys, zoas, button polyps, torch, sinularia,green birdnest,xenia, clove, acans, blastomussa,gsp, devils hand, sun coral,white lightning and encrusting sponge,peppermint and pistol shrimp, ywg, twin spot goby, falco hawkfish, coco worm and feather duster...red macro algae and chaeto...cant forget my nassarius and colonista snails, unknown clam on lr

 

 

hob penguin filter...,chemipure elite... 50/50 36w pc (bc29 light), rio 600 ph, lr, ls, no sump or protein skimmer

thanks to all sharing their experiences and advanced knowledgepost-71835-1339457277_thumb.jpg

Edited by fraxinius
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  • 3 weeks later...

"thanks to all sharing their experiences and advanced knowledge"

 

My name is Chris and I work at the LFS where fraxinius has been coming for the the past few months since he got in the hobby. I personally have sold him almost everything in his tank and I regret to tell you all that he passed away on Thursday the 26th.

 

He was a pleasure to be around and I will miss him very much.

 

Thank you all for helping him when I couldn't

 

Chris

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brandon429

I am truly sorry and that is a punch to the stomach bless his family, so sorry he had a brilliant technical mind in his posts bless him certainly

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Deleted User 3

This stuff is so sad :( RIP fellow reefer :( But hey now in heaven money is no object for reefing and there will be no bad algae or flatworms :D

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