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Adding a HOB overflow and sump to a BC29


jfarabaugh

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Lots of folks email me about installing a HOB overflow in a BC29 So I figured it was time to put together a quick write up. I will be leaving out some details as to not drag this out but will be happy to answer questions and or post better/more pictures.

 

Drilling is an option but not if you have an already established tank like I did….

 

You can do nothing better for you BC29 then adding a sump. It gives you extra water volume, better parameter stability, and a lot of filter/reactor options. The improvement to my tank was drastic shortly after installing. This also helped me completely eradicate my GHA.

 

Items used

LifeReef Nano HOB overflow

Eshopps RS-75 Sump (fits the BC29 cabinet perfectly)

Mag 5 Return pump

Bubble Magus NAC 3.5 Skimmer

BRS Reactor

2 floats from autotopoff.com

 

I fully trust the overflow not to fail but everything is designed to keep any water from getting on the floor. I rather burn a pump out then flood the floor. I shut down the pumps almost every day and don’t even check when they start back up. I flip the switch and walk away. The lifereef overflow is great.

 

The overflow is located in the second chamber and the return is in the third chamber. I found that this is the best places and only place for them.

 

To start you will need to cut part of the wall out between the 2nd and 3rd chambers in order to get the water to flow in both directions. Also the inside back lip of the 2nd chamber will need trimmed. All the cuts can be done with a good heavy pair of wire cutters and a strong hand or a dremel.

 

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Fit the overflow and take the measurements in order to cut the hood.

 

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Not much has to be cut out of the hood in order for it to clear. The largest chunk is for the u tube.

 

Picture to come

 

Fit the hood makes sure it clears the overflow and make any trim cuts if needed.

 

Next is the return line into the 3rd chamber. This is pretty straight forward. You may want to look at drilling a hole slightly below the water line to act as a siphon break when the pump shuts down.

 

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The return piece in the tank is ¾” PVC with vinyl tubing return between it and the sump.

 

Again finalize the position and make the cuts in the hood.

 

To make the overflow just about silent I went with a hofer gurgle buster. I tired some others but this worked best for me. http://home.everestkc.net/jrobertson57268/HGB/index.html

 

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To connect the overflow to the sump I found a dishwasher drain line at homedepot. This is extremely flexible and did a great job. It drops right into the sump opening into a filter sock (best mechanical filtration you can get) and is submerged maybe 3” to 4” under the water in the sump in order to add to the overflow silence.

 

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Picture of exact overflow drain line used from HD to come.

 

Moving on to the sump.

 

2 holes will have to be drilled in the cabinet for the drain and return lines.

 

I designed the return plumbing to drive a media reactor and return to the tank off one pump. Less pumps equals less heat added. I calculated a mag 5 to have enough power for good flow through and with enough extra to power a reactor. I used one ball valve for the main return line that is about 75% of the way open. I also installed a union in order to easily disconnect and remove the pump for cleaning.

 

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For added protection I piped the pump inlet to sit just below (enough not to suck air) the water level. This limits the amount of water that can be pulled from the sump if something went wrong with the overflow.

Crappy picture but you get the idea.

 

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The media reactor is tied in and has its own ball valve to control the flow through the reactor and dumps back into the sump.

 

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The ATO float is located in the return chamber of the sump and uses an aqualifter pump.

 

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I fully trust the overflow but the engineer in me went and added an additional float in the 3rd chamber of the BC for additional protection from flooding. It is set to trip (stays off until reset) the return pump and ATO pumps off if the water level get too high preventing the BC from overflowing onto the floor. In all honesty even if my ato container was freshly filled and everything failed the tank would still not overflow as the return pump would run dry as the most that can be put out is 1.75 gallons due to the inlet pipe on the return pump and the BC can handle the extra 1.75 gallons. If I increase the size of my freshwater container this extra float will become more important.

 

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Finished product BC29

 

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Finished sump with macro algae holder and modified light.

 

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Thanks for the write up. Now I have the same sump,a SWC 150, a Phosban reactor, a Eshopps 800gph overflow, and pvc return. You gave me the idea. Thanks!

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Thanks for the write up! I cant wait to try this with my cube. Ive been looking around for skimmers for my tank and this opens up a whole new class.

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Thanks for the write up. Now I have the same sump,a SWC 150, a Phosban reactor, a Eshopps 800gph overflow, and pvc return. You gave me the idea. Thanks!

 

 

Thanks for the write up! I cant wait to try this with my cube. Ive been looking around for skimmers for my tank and this opens up a whole new class.

 

No problem. Let me know if you need anymore details

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Damn. This is pretty slick. I have a fluval 305 canister running on mine but this is a much better option. A full size skimmer would be nice!!

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  • 11 months later...
Red Sea Reefer

How much additional water volume dose the sump setup allow you? I'm planning to setup and plumb a frag tank next to my BC29 this summer. I will probably use a 20 gallon tank for that sump. Thanks for the write up.

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How much additional water volume dose the sump setup allow you? I'm planning to setup and plumb a frag tank next to my BC29 this summer. I will probably use a 20 gallon tank for that sump. Thanks for the write up.

 

The sump gives me about 6 to 7 gallons more in volume. But that is a solid 6 to 7 gallons...not 6 to 7 minus 3 for LR and such.

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  • 6 months later...

I'm installing a RS-75 myself right now in my BC29 and I have a question that maybe you can answer. I saw that you ran your sump return into the third chamber and removed some wall between the two chambers for flow. What are you using to return water to the main display? Did you plumb your return directly into the loc lines going into the main tank? Or did you use another pump in the third chamber, like it is setup normally? If so what pump are you using in your third chamber? I currently have a RIO 6HF in the third chamber.

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I'm installing a RS-75 myself right now in my BC29 and I have a question that maybe you can answer. I saw that you ran your sump return into the third chamber and removed some wall between the two chambers for flow. What are you using to return water to the main display? Did you plumb your return directly into the loc lines going into the main tank? Or did you use another pump in the third chamber, like it is setup normally? If so what pump are you using in your third chamber? I currently have a RIO 6HF in the third chamber.

 

I still have my MJ1200 return pump going. I did this so that at a flip of a switch I can isolate the tank and that sump.

 

Makes water changes easy

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