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RKL+myreef 2 for Dummies


bioload

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TheNorthernLight

Yes, that is how that has worked for me. But I'm not sure if that's actually the way it should be. It's supposed to only do that on power failure, but I think it does it now, even when the channel is turned off normally.

 

It's minor, and only lasts 15 minutes.

 

Actually thinking about that for a second, I realize that's exactly the correct thing to do. It prevents you from accidentally turning the light on too soon after a normal power off. Maybe they should reduce the blinks to 1 / 10 seconds or something like that. Or even better, just display a warning on the LCD that PC4:Lighting:Ch# is in MH safety mode.

Edited by spyrule
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Alright, finally got a working SID card. After a few hours of trouble shooting- I almost got everything working too.

 

When you have two PC4's, are they supposed to be recognized as two different modules? Both of my PC4's have the same serial number in myReef... not sure if that's normal.

 

With the NET module working (viewing from myReef), and from the head unit, I'm only seeing one of my PC4s. They both work when they're plugged in individually... But one's not being recognized when they're both plugged in. I'm confused as hell.

Edited by kgoldy
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TheNorthernLight
Alright, finally got a working SID card. After a few hours of trouble shooting- I almost got everything working too.

 

When you have two PC4's, are they supposed to be recognized as two different modules? Both of my PC4's have the same serial number in myReef... not sure if that's normal.

 

With the NET module working (viewing from myReef), and from the head unit, I'm only seeing one of my PC4s. They both work when they're plugged in individually... But one's not being recognized when they're both plugged in. I'm confused as hell.

 

That... sounds rather odd. I would contact DA's support 'cause that doesn't sound right. Did you flash them at the same time?

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TheNorthernLight

To quote another thread from DA's forums :

 

http://www.forum.digitalaquatics.com/viewt...rial+%23#p31958

 

Ok I got the darn thing working again...what the system was doing is when flashing each unit they are given the same name and serial number over and over again. Took me a while to catch this....But just like Opy01 said during flashing unplug the buss cable then re connect to corrupt the file then rename and the give it a new serial number and it work. Thanks.

 

Quoting another thread from DA:

If you have two modules with the same Serial numbers, you should be able to get this fixed with myReef. What you will need to do is plug in one of the PC4s into the SID and go to program it. Once you hit program and the unit is about half way through the update, unplug the PC4 from the SID. This should corrupt the serial number. Attempting to program it again should show up as all ????????. Clicking through the update process again, will give you the option to select the module type (in your case a PC4) and generate a new serial number. You should than be good to go.

 

Go ahead and give that a try and let us know.

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You the man, spy.

 

I thought I'd get a reef keeper so I can still go on week + long vacations and not have to worry about a tank sitter... Now I feel like I'm going to NEED a vacation after this thing is set up.

Edited by kgoldy
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Aaaaaaahhhh!!

 

I tried to change my login name, now I'm locked out. Damn. Help, Spy? Hahah.

 

edit- resetting NET module...

Edited by kgoldy
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TheNorthernLight

It's really not that hard. The only truely annoying part is the lack of documentation for the software. It's quite.... well annoying.

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Hey spyrule, the usb wifi you mentioned, will that only work with the net module? I would like to log on myreef but i dont care to have the net nor do I want to run a 30' usb cable over to the tank from where I hang out with the laptop. I figure if I could have a wireless connection and leave my comp on with myreef booted then at least I could data log. Is there such a thing as a wireless usb cable? Excuse my ingnorance...im 30, missed the computer wave by 2 years, didnt have a computer in my school til my senior year. I got robbed of a "real" education!

 

actually, can anyone tell me if i were to go plug in my sid to my comp would it display logged info? if so how long does it keep info in the headunit for retrival?

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TheNorthernLight
Hey spyrule, the usb wifi you mentioned, will that only work with the net module? I would like to log on myreef but i dont care to have the net nor do I want to run a 30' usb cable over to the tank from where I hang out with the laptop. I figure if I could have a wireless connection and leave my comp on with myreef booted then at least I could data log. Is there such a thing as a wireless usb cable? Excuse my ingnorance...im 30, missed the computer wave by 2 years, didnt have a computer in my school til my senior year. I got robbed of a "real" education!

 

actually, can anyone tell me if i were to go plug in my sid to my comp would it display logged info? if so how long does it keep info in the headunit for retrival?

 

 

No you don't need the NET module at all, it just adds a webserver that hosts all the information for you.

 

I used a few items combined to do what I wanted :

 

Obviously you've got to have an existing working wifi network.

 

Then get something like :

 

Asus Wireless AP WL-330gE which cost about $30

 

Then you'll need something like :

 

USB Lan Server

 

or

 

Google "USB over Ethernet Adapter"

 

 

First you'll want to get the wifi connection working with the Access Point (the Asus device). Once you've got it connected, THEN plug in the USB device, and make sure you can see it from your pc (mine requires a piece of software running for it to be "found").

 

After that you plug your SID 2 into the last free port on your last device in the chain, and then plug it into the USB port on the USB device.

 

What I then do, is make sure the software for the USB device is running and "connected", and then start myReef. Voila! your up and running.

 

With this setup, my pc is 40ft from the aquarium and controller/AP, and I can connect and control it no problem.

 

On a side note ...

 

I'm not going to teach you how to setup your AP to your wifi, since this has been documented and written about... oh probably 100 million times by now. Google it, its really not hard.

 

And depending on the device you go with, the USB devices all work differently, so that's a crapshoot.

 

For example, the Tsunami model I posted, is hard to find, and frankly... ain't that great. From what I understand there is a good one from IOGear that works well... but can't say from personal experience.

 

Anyway, cheers and good luck.

 

- Spyrule :ninja:

 

p.s.- I'm 33... so age has NOTHING to do with your ability to understand technology, only a desire to learn.

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TheNorthernLight
Got everything set up! Woot! Only took like four hours... <_<

And most of that time was probably spent figuring out where you we're going to run your wires and make it look clean! :lol::P

 

(or at least that's where I spent the majority of my time)

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And most of that time was probably spent figuring out where you we're going to run your wires and make it look clean! :lol::P

 

(or at least that's where I spent the majority of my time)

 

 

I wish. Haha. I was running all around trying to figure out why I couldn't connect to my NET. The NET detector wasn't finding it because it was on the splitter I have my TV/DVD player/Blu-Ray/PS3 and all that junk connected to it. It took quite a while before I figured out the NET isn't happy without a dedicated line to my router.

 

I'm mechanically inclined, technologically behind. Running the wires and mounting everything will be the easiest part. Haha. I've gotta switch out my tank, so right now everything is still laid out next to my entertainment center for testing/tinkering.

 

 

So I'm a little disappointed- or maybe I'm just getting things wrong... On the NET webserver, you can name the channels and all- but really the only control you have is over the Channel Mode? I expected to be able to at least set the timers, and that the channel/module names would be transferred to the Head Unit.

 

...and now that I've become a little familiar with this thing, I totally see what you meant by "just go and get the RKE and save yourself the frustration of having to upgrade". I'm at my module cap straight out of the box!

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All I can say after reading all this is that spyrule is the man when it comes to the RKL and MyReef2. He's WAYYYYY beyond me. Thanks spy for helping everyone out. All I know is I love the RKL and all it can do, its really nice to have!

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TheNorthernLight

An interesting side tidbit of info I just got is that ReefBrite is actively working on a dimmable power source for all their reefbrites, and "supposedly" it will be compatible with the RKE's ALC controller (Advanced Light Controller).

 

Besides that, I am wanting to get the ambient temp sensor for the RKE (so I can turn my hoodlight fans on/off based on ACTUAL hood temp, and fail off as Water Temp alarms go off... the higher the water temp, the more lights that turn off).

 

 

On a completly side note, I just got my InTank Tunse 9002 cup, and filter peices in the mail, and I happened to have gotten a JBJ Nano-LED Fuge light this morning (before my package was delivered), so now... besides those to RKE modules, I'm done upgrading! Woot!.

 

Spyrule :ninja:

Edited by spyrule
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), so now... besides those to RKE modules, I'm done upgrading! Woot!.

 

Spyrule :ninja:

 

LOOOL ALL i've got to say to that is this:( its very short but to the point) :)

 

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Does the ALC require myreef to set up the intensity/ramp up of a LED fixture. I'm thinking about getting the ALC for my RKL since I will be receiving the 5.6 led kit from nanocustoms in the next week or so. I have a Mac so my rkl and two pc4's are not updated tithe current firmware so I'm just wondering what the ALC needs.

 

Thanks.

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TheNorthernLight

to be truthful, I have no clue what it takes to program, or how it work. Sorry dude!. Now if DA we're to read this thread and send me one, I'd be happy as pie to tell people how to program it!. :grin:

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Haha now that would be nice! I'd be happy to figure it out on my own if I can get a freebie sent as well.

 

Thankw anyways spyrule. I'll look through the DA forums to see if I can find an answer.

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phi delt reefer

you guys seem to have a solid handle on this so heres a question about ATO's with RKL

 

if i get an SL2 and couple float switches...

 

can i have it so when the low level float is triggered the RKL waits 5 minutes before starting the ATO pump WHICH is also set on a timer to run for a max of 15 minutes when triggered or the low level float is back to normal water height.

 

also - does the high level float need to be programmed on its own or can i just wire it in series? I would like to use the extra port for a low level ato container float.

 

I was going to build an ATO with a relay, two floats a delay start timer and a pump max time timer but i have a RKL and figured purchasing an SL2 might be the way to go so i am optimizing its use :) Wouldnt be much more expensive than all that circuitry and i am a much better programmer than electronics assembler.

 

thanks in advance :)

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TheNorthernLight
you guys seem to have a solid handle on this so heres a question about ATO's with RKL

 

if i get an SL2 and couple float switches...

 

can i have it so when the low level float is triggered the RKL waits 5 minutes before starting the ATO pump WHICH is also set on a timer to run for a max of 15 minutes when triggered or the low level float is back to normal water height.

 

also - does the high level float need to be programmed on its own or can i just wire it in series? I would like to use the extra port for a low level ato container float.

 

I was going to build an ATO with a relay, two floats a delay start timer and a pump max time timer but i have a RKL and figured purchasing an SL2 might be the way to go so i am optimizing its use :) Wouldnt be much more expensive than all that circuitry and i am a much better programmer than electronics assembler.

 

thanks in advance :)

 

 

There is a couple of ways to do this... the timer becomes much more challenging, and the only way that I know of on how to do it atm, is to use an unused socket with a timer set on it. I've never set anything up this way, because using a power plug to set a timer is rediculous in my mind.

 

You can wire float switches in series if you wish, there is no harm in it, the main thing to remember with the SL2 is that the float switches MUST not be powered externally, or you WILL fry the SL2.

 

But I'm fairly certain that you can setup exactly what you want using a few float switches in combination with either the SL2 or the SW1? (switch controller module... can't remember the name).

 

You can already use the SL1 that came with your RKE to test your setup, once it's doing what you want, then go ahead and order the SL2 and float switches.

 

The only thing I would figure out first, is if you need more switches then you need the Salinity / ORP testing from the SL2. If you think your not going to use the Salinity or ORP all that much, then I'd order the Switch module instead as it's actually more useful (in my mind).

 

Cheers,

 

Spyrule. :ninja:

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Does the ALC require myreef to set up the intensity/ramp up of a LED fixture. I'm thinking about getting the ALC for my RKL since I will be receiving the 5.6 led kit from nanocustoms in the next week or so. I have a Mac so my rkl and two pc4's are not updated tithe current firmware so I'm just wondering what the ALC needs.

 

Thanks.

 

With the RKE you do not need myReef to fully program the ALC and judging by the way it is set up I would think the RKL is similar. . . But I can not say for sure.

 

If you sign up to the DA Forums and ask the question they generally turn around a response in 24 hours.

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TheNorthernLight
With the RKE you do not need myReef to fully program the ALC and judging by the way it is set up I would think the RKL is similar. . . But I can not say for sure.

 

If you sign up to the DA Forums and ask the question they generally turn around a response in 24 hours.

 

 

Although in my experience its much longer then this... but frankly, they actually respond which is 10x better then most other vendors. ;)

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No you don't need the NET module at all, it just adds a webserver that hosts all the information for you.

 

I used a few items combined to do what I wanted :

 

Obviously you've got to have an existing working wifi network.

 

Then get something like :

 

Asus Wireless AP WL-330gE which cost about $30

 

Then you'll need something like :

 

USB Lan Server

 

or

 

Google "USB over Ethernet Adapter"

 

 

First you'll want to get the wifi connection working with the Access Point (the Asus device). Once you've got it connected, THEN plug in the USB device, and make sure you can see it from your pc (mine requires a piece of software running for it to be "found").

 

After that you plug your SID 2 into the last free port on your last device in the chain, and then plug it into the USB port on the USB device.

 

What I then do, is make sure the software for the USB device is running and "connected", and then start myReef. Voila! your up and running.

 

With this setup, my pc is 40ft from the aquarium and controller/AP, and I can connect and control it no problem.

 

On a side note ...

 

I'm not going to teach you how to setup your AP to your wifi, since this has been documented and written about... oh probably 100 million times by now. Google it, its really not hard.

 

And depending on the device you go with, the USB devices all work differently, so that's a crapshoot.

 

For example, the Tsunami model I posted, is hard to find, and frankly... ain't that great. From what I understand there is a good one from IOGear that works well... but can't say from personal experience.

 

Anyway, cheers and good luck.

 

- Spyrule :ninja:

 

p.s.- I'm 33... so age has NOTHING to do with your ability to understand technology, only a desire to learn.

 

So first thank you very much for taking the time to wrtie all that out for me(us). After reading your first post about it I did search around for how this would work but heres the catch...I dont know what the stuff is called! That makes it tough on Sr Google! lol. So, I take it that there isnt(forgive my lack of eloquence) a standalone usb wireless zapper from over here to over there thingy? Thats a shame if not and you have to go the router and all that other stuff. I mean for this application even if it was slow and couldnt handle lots of kbs it wouldnt matter. Hell its just a few numbers that change little over the course of 24 hours. Seems crazy to spend the 100+ bucks on all the stuff you linked AND a router. Why not just get the net module? If I am too far off base here let me know.

 

Also, can someone please answer if and for how long the head unit stores info for retrieval?

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