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RKL+myreef 2 for Dummies


bioload

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TheNorthernLight
i got my reef keeper Elite today (RKL trade in) for.I'm off for 7 days after tomorrow hopefully I can get it all set up again.

 

Easiest thing to do is write down your configuration, and then reset it up with the same info. That's what I did when I went from my Rk2 to my RKE and I had it up and running in 1/2 hour (excluding wiring of course).

 

Good luck

 

Spyrule :ninja:

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yeah, great idea until all your corals actually lunar spawn, and you wake up the next morning to a flooded protein skimmer, and your tank has crashed because of the sudden decay spike (happened to a friend of mine).

 

and... btw they typically spawn on a dark moon night, so you won't see it until it's too late. Even if you do, there is no way to stop the spawn from happening when it starts, and all you can do is constant water changes.

 

Hope you can mix your tank's total volumn, several times over to save the tank.

 

We had 4 guys working for 8 hours straight, constantly mixing fresh water, and even then he lost 1/3rd of everything in the tank.

 

He got lucky that he woke up to a wetfloor alarm he had set to he protein skimmer, otherwise it probably would have been a total loss.

 

Just some food for thought. ;)

 

If you set it up, just interrupt the moon cycle every once in awhile, by making it suddenly brighter then normal. This interrupts the corals spawn instincts and can pretty much stop them from spawning.

 

Spyrule :ninja:

hmmm interesting. Thanks for the heads up and I'll keep that in mind.

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No you don't need the NET module at all, it just adds a webserver that hosts all the information for you.

 

I used a few items combined to do what I wanted :

 

Obviously you've got to have an existing working wifi network.

 

Then get something like :

 

Asus Wireless AP WL-330gE which cost about $30

 

Then you'll need something like :

 

USB Lan Server

 

or

 

Google "USB over Ethernet Adapter"

 

 

First you'll want to get the wifi connection working with the Access Point (the Asus device). Once you've got it connected, THEN plug in the USB device, and make sure you can see it from your pc (mine requires a piece of software running for it to be "found").

 

After that you plug your SID 2 into the last free port on your last device in the chain, and then plug it into the USB port on the USB device.

 

What I then do, is make sure the software for the USB device is running and "connected", and then start myReef. Voila! your up and running.

 

With this setup, my pc is 40ft from the aquarium and controller/AP, and I can connect and control it no problem.

 

On a side note ...

 

I'm not going to teach you how to setup your AP to your wifi, since this has been documented and written about... oh probably 100 million times by now. Google it, its really not hard.

 

And depending on the device you go with, the USB devices all work differently, so that's a crapshoot.

 

For example, the Tsunami model I posted, is hard to find, and frankly... ain't that great. From what I understand there is a good one from IOGear that works well... but can't say from personal experience.

 

Anyway, cheers and good luck.

 

- Spyrule :ninja:

 

p.s.- I'm 33... so age has NOTHING to do with your ability to understand technology, only a desire to learn.

hey do you think a wireless print server such asprint server would work with what you spoke about above instead of using the net module?I'm definately not a computer expert but I don't see why it wouldn't.It would be cheaper than the setup you spoke about above.Anyway just food for thought.BTW I got my RKE working and i'm gonna hook it all back up this afternoon.

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TheNorthernLight
hey do you think a wireless print server such asprint server would work with what you spoke about above instead of using the net module?I'm definately not a computer expert but I don't see why it wouldn't.It would be cheaper than the setup you spoke about above.Anyway just food for thought.BTW I got my RKE working and i'm gonna hook it all back up this afternoon.

 

No, I have this router and it will not work. It is designed ONLY for printers and HDD's (it's USB chip is limited on it's identification support, so it won't recognize other items).

 

Also its nearly impossible to connect two wifi routers to each other unless it specifically states that it will work as a repeater. Most off the shelf routers will not do this (unless you want to re-flash the entire device using DDWRT, at which point that voids your warranty).

 

Honestly, as an alternative option.. there is this :

 

http://www.iogear.com/product/GUWH204KIT/

 

Which negates the necessity of a switch or Access Point, but also denies you the option to use the NET module if you ever wanted to.

 

Cheers,

 

Spyrule :ninja:

Edited by spyrule
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No, I have this router and it will not work. It is designed ONLY for printers and HDD's (it's USB chip is limited on it's identification support, so it won't recognize other items).

 

Also its nearly impossible to connect two wifi routers to each other unless it specifically states that it will work as a repeater. Most off the shelf routers will not do this (unless you want to re-flash the entire device using DDWRT, at which point that voids your warranty).

 

Honestly, as an alternative option.. there is this :

 

http://www.iogear.com/product/GUWH204KIT/

 

Which negates the necessity of a switch or Access Point, but also denies you the option to use the NET module if you ever wanted to.

 

Cheers,

 

Spyrule :ninja:

 

I think i might just wait a month or so and get the net module before I go on vacation

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Anyone know anything about "Storm Mode"??..The RKL allows you to make storm mode settings but I don't see anyway to associate the settings with a device like a powerhead. A google search wasn't very helpful, this mode seems to be in the works from what I can find out and that when implemented it will work with lighting and pumps to simulate a "storm"....sounds interesting.

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Anyone know anything about "Storm Mode"??..The RKL allows you to make storm mode settings but I don't see anyway to associate the settings with a device like a powerhead. A google search wasn't very helpful, this mode seems to be in the works from what I can find out and that when implemented it will work with lighting and pumps to simulate a "storm"....sounds interesting.

I read some where that it will be a future feature even though it shows up on the menu list on the RKL. Pretty cool idea but it really doesn't do anything besides showing it off to your friends.

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I read some where that it will be a future feature even though it shows up on the menu list on the RKL. Pretty cool idea but it really doesn't do anything besides showing it off to your friends.

 

:lol::lol::lol: I still I want it!

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Thanks Biolaod! This helped me a ton...

I might have to swich some channels on my RKL because my JBJ 28 moonlighs dont shut off with the multi timer... the blue light on the PC4 goes off ....and the head unit say's off... but the lights are still on... if i disconect the plug and plug it back in it goes off... do you think this is the channel prob you were talking about?

 

this forum is bookmarked in my computer forever!

thanks again... i couldnt have done it without your help!

Edited by Ezsharkman
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Your welcome! I went through the exact same issue trying to get a koralia to work with the wavetimer function on channel 3. The blue light would turn off as programmed, and like you said the head unit said it was off, but it never actually WAS off!?! I tried several times and couldn't get it to work right. I googled the issue and came up with a thread about some devices not being compatible with some channels, usually 2 or 3. I don't really understand the electronics behind it, but the recommendation was to swap channels with a device that is using 1 or 4. I did that and then everything worked right on the first try. So yeah try a different channel preferably 1 or 4.

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Bioload! it worked!

I'm Super stoked!

Now i wanna buy another pc4 because i keep thinking of new things i could do

Thanks again.

 

I always like to help people spend more money :D ....

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  • 4 weeks later...
BowieReefer84

THANK YOU SO MUCH! Two questions:

 

1. Do I need the equipment to be plugged in to the outlets see the channels in Myreef software? I have updated everything, but do not see channels... I think I need to dive in and plug my equipment into the PC4? Can you show me a picture of how you have everything while programming?

 

2. I am going to be using my heater and two BRS Doser pumps on the timer function. Should the dosers go in channels 2&3, and the heater in channel 1?

 

Mike

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TheNorthernLight
THANK YOU SO MUCH! Two questions:

 

1. Do I need the equipment to be plugged in to the outlets see the channels in Myreef software? I have updated everything, but do not see channels... I think I need to dive in and plug my equipment into the PC4? Can you show me a picture of how you have everything while programming?

 

2. I am going to be using my heater and two BRS Doser pumps on the timer function. Should the dosers go in channels 2&3, and the heater in channel 1?

 

Mike

 

1) If your referring to using the software to program your configuration, then yes, you need EVERYTHING plugged in that you want to configure for it to work properly (or for certain features to be available).

 

If your asking about updating the firmware, then it's 1 item at a time.

 

2) Channels 1 and 4 are for high amp devices (like a heater), and shouldn't get locked into an ON position (although, REALLY high amperage devices might still get stuck, if that's the case get the PC1). So, yes... heater channel 1 or 4, and the doser pumps on the others.

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BowieReefer84
1) If your referring to using the software to program your configuration, then yes, you need EVERYTHING plugged in that you want to configure for it to work properly (or for certain features to be available).

 

If your asking about updating the firmware, then it's 1 item at a time.

 

2) Channels 1 and 4 are for high amp devices (like a heater), and shouldn't get locked into an ON position (although, REALLY high amperage devices might still get stuck, if that's the case get the PC1). So, yes... heater channel 1 or 4, and the doser pumps on the others.

Thanks for the quick reply! It's just a 50watt heater (maybe 75). The tank is only 29gal.

 

Can't wait to give this a shot this weekend.

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THANK YOU SO MUCH! Two questions:

 

1. Do I need the equipment to be plugged in to the outlets see the channels in Myreef software? I have updated everything, but do not see channels... I think I need to dive in and plug my equipment into the PC4? Can you show me a picture of how you have everything while programming?

 

2. I am going to be using my heater and two BRS Doser pumps on the timer function. Should the dosers go in channels 2&3, and the heater in channel 1?

 

Mike

No you don't need anything plugged in to see the channels and program them using the myreef software.You have to specifically name each channel yourself and program it how you want it. Read no.7 in my first post in this thread. You need to assemble the head unit and the pc4 after updating and doing a factory reset....then hook the assembled RKL to the comp and you are ready to program.

 

channels 1 and 4 can handle higher amperage so yeah I would do it the way you said.

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BowieReefer84
No you don't need anything plugged in to see the channels and program them using the myreef software.You have to specifically name each channel yourself and program it how you want it. Read no.7 in my first post in this thread. You need to assemble the head unit and the pc4 after updating and doing a factory reset....then hook the assembled RKL to the comp and you are ready to program.

 

channels 1 and 4 can handle higher amperage so yeah I would do it the way you said.

Ok, how do I perform a factort reset? Do I only reset the headunit, or both the headunit and powerbar?

 

Thanks!

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TheNorthernLight

If your updating the firmware, they will get reset anyway. Just make sure all items are running the latest firmware. Update only those that HAVE an update.

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BowieReefer84

Ok, it seems you two conflicted on one point.

 

If I want to program the dosers on timers via myreef do the doser pumps need to be plugged into the PC4? OR, can I program the outlets than plug the doser pumps in when I am ready?

 

Hope this is clear.

 

Thanks,

Mike

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TheNorthernLight
Ok, it seems you two conflicted on one point.

 

If I want to program the dosers on timers via myreef do the doser pumps need to be plugged into the PC4? OR, can I program the outlets than plug the doser pumps in when I am ready?

 

Hope this is clear.

 

Thanks,

Mike

 

Oh, you can program the plug first, then plug in the device. At no point do you EVER need to program a PC4 power socket with the device actually plugged in. The RKE doesn't actually "detect" what's plugged in. The only things that need to be connected are sensors (temp, pH, ORP, Salinity, etc). Those connect to their own specialized labeled connectors.

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Just read through this whole thread after buying the MD RKL with SL1/pH/temp setup for $185ish. I'm definitely excited about all the functionality I will get with this device. Sounds like I should go ahead and order another PC4 eh? Guess I will need to wait after the wife gets over today's purchases haha.

 

Thanks for the great info guys.

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BowieReefer84

HELP!?!?!

 

Ok, I am attempting to set my heater on the controller using the temp probe. Also, I want to set up two BRS dosers on the timers to run multiple times a day for 3-4 minutes each time.

 

I am going to post some screenshots to show where I am at with things.

 

First setting up the Heater:

5769807982_78347e0fc3_b.jpg

HEATER screenshot by mteske1, on Flickr

 

Does that look right to keep it set?

 

Next, the Doser pumps. I am using multi-timer right now, and not sure if there is a better option? Screenshots...

 

5769269135_4826b138b3_b.jpg

DOSER screenshot 1 by mteske1, on Flickr

 

Next once I click "timer setup."

5769808002_5d8e927e0a_b.jpg

DOSER screenshot 2 by mteske1, on Flickr

 

I know I would have to set the 3rd channel for my second timer. One on Alk and the other on Calc.

 

Any tips please?

 

I really appreciate all the help this thread has provided to get me this far!

 

Thanks,

Mike

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TheNorthernLight

Honestly, I havn't used the software enough to tell you. Sounds like your on the right track.

 

When in doubt, test it. But use water instead of your actual suppliments to test, and then just keep an eye on it (or turn on logging), and review what's going on after a day or so.

 

A little trial and error shouldn't hurt, as long as you don't have your heater set to max temp. You should set your heater MAYBE 1 degree higher then what you want, so that it can't cook your tank. NEVER rely purely on the RKE (or any controller for that matter), to manage your heating. redundancy is the game when it comes to heating and power.

 

As for the Doser pumps, I'm not sure as I don't have anything setup with mutiple timers (I just don't have a need for it).

 

When you DO figure it out, post it on here to confirm how to setup multiple timers as your doing.

 

Cheers,

 

Spyrule :ninja:

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I am planning on buying a controller for my 120. My lfs is still selling the rkl without ph probe for $99. Should I look into buying rke or apex?

I want to control lights, pumps, skimmer, and heater for now. Please suggest on what should I get for controller? It would really cool to check on the tank via online. Can we do this using rkl?

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TheNorthernLight
I am planning on buying a controller for my 120. My lfs is still selling the rkl without ph probe for $99. Should I look into buying rke or apex?

I want to control lights, pumps, skimmer, and heater for now. Please suggest on what should I get for controller? It would really cool to check on the tank via online. Can we do this using rkl?

 

Well, everybody in this thread has one version or another of the ReefKeepers. The big difference between the ReefKeepers and the Apex controllers, is the amount of modules available. There is WAY more option available for the RK's. The Apex and RKE w/NET are about identical for what they can do except last time I checked the RKE w/NET is about $100 cheaper.

 

The RKL will not let you monitor your tank remotely out of the box. However, with a little bit of extra hardware/networking you CAN monitor the RKL via the software, which can be run on any pc in your house (and then you simply setup either VNC or RDP to your desktop from whereever you are).

 

The more important thing to do is to figure out all the things you want to control (essentially how many devices with plugs) and then calculate which costs more long term. Just remember that the RKL has a max of 16 plugs, 12 plugs 1 extra module (SL1, SL2, ALC, SW5, MLC), 8 plugs and 2 modules, or stock and 3 modules. However you'll still need to buy three PC4's to reach that 16 plug count (at a price of $100 each).

I should mention, that IF you need/want more then 4 plugs initially, then buy TWO or THREE entire RKL units for the $99, which gives you 2 or 3 replacement parts (including two spare head units for the future).

 

IF you think you'd like to control more then 16 plugs, then you'll NEED to go to an RKE unit (which you can upgrade the RKL to RKE in the future for the same price difference). The RKE has a limit of 256 devices (that's 1024 plugs if you went pure PC4's! :P ).

 

Happy deciding. If you decide to go with the RKL/E, you can post questions here.

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