ajmckay Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 Looks fine to me... It's in the back of the sump... so as long as there's enough adhesion to keep the glass in place, there shouldn't be an issue. It could even leak a little and not matter. Silicone is sticky sticky stuff though! One hint (too late I know) is to dip your finger in rubbing alcohol before smoothing a joint. This makes it smoother (as long as you don't put too much pressure). Also you can use dowels and such to smooth out the inner parts of the baffles. Or just leave them since they don't need to look pretty. I don't know specifically what the cure time is for the GE1, but it should be good for a wet test soon I'm sure! Link to comment
bitts Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 Wow!! Am I late to the party. Sorry mate. I've been using most of my computer time to watch al jareera. I'll give a better responce after I've read the thread again. Link to comment
gutterguy Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 Looks great goldy!! Now i really wish i would have done my sump different. Link to comment
ajmckay Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 Wow!! Am I late to the party. Sorry mate. I've been using most of my computer time to watch al jareera. I'll give a better responce after I've read the thread again. Al Jazeera eh? ...Sounds riveting. In english or arabic? Link to comment
kgoldy Posted February 3, 2011 Author Share Posted February 3, 2011 Bah... I got greedy with my fuge volume and may have sabotaged myself here... Probably should have stretched out the width of pieces #2, 3 and 4- so I would have more room for overflow. I think I'll be cutting it real close (or flooding) even if I run the return chamber very low. Damn. Totally should have did the math before I got my glass cut, and def before I siliconed anything. Now everyone's got a different answer as to how much water volume I'll lose from my 75RR when the power is cut. Worst case scenario- 2" x 18" x 47" = 1,692 cubic inches, or 7.32 gallons. Plus the water in the pipes... plus what's in the skimmer... Isn't there a emoticon that's crying a river? If I run my water level in chamber 3 of the sump at the same level as the top of the bubble traps, I have 1540 cubic inches, or 6.6 gallons of space for overflow water. Damn. If I had stretched that bubble trap in the back one more inch, I would have had over 500 cubic inches more, and no flooding to worry about. Looks great goldy!! Now i really wish i would have done my sump different. Ooooh gutter guy... Check this out!! I'm trying to sell off the sump I copied directly from aj and bitts's plans. Link to comment
bitts Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 Okay, my first thought is why is the return pump pushing so mush flow. Ideal flow through the drain can be found with this equation. Time (12 hours) = 9.2 (System volume/flow rate) Believe it or not this is the same formula that determines what size tank a skimmer is recommended for. Well its how there suppose to be rated. It allows for 99.99% of the water to be run through sump, skimmer, whatever, twice daily. More is not detrimental, just more energy than needed. if you plan on splitting the drain line between the fuge & skimmer just double the drain rate. As for the skimmer & return chamber. I would add a baffle as close to the skimmer as possible. Minimizing the skimmer chambers size as much as can be. Using it to prevent the back flow from causing the skimmer to overflow as the system is powered down. then using a dremel or some thing to add a small hole in the bubble trap baffles to increase the return chambers volume, with out lousing the traps effectiveness. As to the filter sock. it will cut the skimmers effectiveness & should be pulled. let me think some more. Link to comment
kgoldy Posted February 3, 2011 Author Share Posted February 3, 2011 No filter sock? Hmm... I thought since every pre-fab sump I've ever seen had a filter sock, that I had to have one in. Not putting one in sounds pretty good to me, actually. One less thing to clean. I was recommended by a few people to go for a pump rated at 900 gallons per hour because I'll lose some of that to head loss and resistance in pipe bends. My Reef Ready kit (the pipes that came with the tank) is outfitted for use with vinyl tubes, not rigid PVC pipes. I was going to attempt to run everything off the vinyl, since it' would be easier to manipulate as I add additional equipment (calcium reactor, chiller, etc) if it becomes necessary. bitts... Could you use paint or something on some of my images so I know exactly what you're talking about? And I do need to leave some room around the skimmer... There's not a lot of clearance inside the cabinet to remove it, if I can't tip it. I guess when I figure out what you're recommending, I'll do a dry run with some cardboard and see what I can get away with. Link to comment
bitts Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 No filter sock? Hmm... I thought since every pre-fab sump I've ever seen had a filter sock, that I had to have one in. Not putting one in sounds pretty good to me, actually. One less thing to clean. bingo It also means that it goes to the skimmer, instead of accumulating in the sock to go through mineralization. I was recommended by a few people to go for a pump rated at 900 gallons per hour because I'll lose some of that to head loss and resistance in pipe bends. I assume that this size pump is recommended to provide needed flow to the tank with out adding power heads. I would point out that a vortech or korrila would be more power efficient. But yes they do take up space & you have to look at them. Another option would be eductor nozzles to help increase flow while using a smaller pump. bitts... Could you use paint or something on some of my images so I know exactly what you're talking about? And I do need to leave some room around the skimmer... There's not a lot of clearance inside the cabinet to remove it, if I can't tip it. I guess when I figure out what you're recommending, I'll do a dry run with some cardboard and see what I can get away with. Sorry, I don't actually have paint. just sketchup. let me see if I can do better. The goal for a skimmer chamber is to minimize the size as much as possible. While enabling the skimmer to run even when the return pump is powered down. if the skimmer can be raised & the baffle height with it, this will allow for the water line in the return chamber to handle greater fluctuation. Without causing the skimmer to overflow when the pump is powered down. if the chamber is as small as you can make it & still get the skimmer in & out. Then thats been done. My thought on adding a baffle was to help increase the return chambers size, with out removing the bubble trap. Not sure if anyone else has had to cut out baffles but OMG is it a pain in the *^*. Normally ending up with me cutting myself, every time I've done it. So never some thing I recommend. cutting a small hole in the baffles, maybe an 1/8th of an inch hole as low as you can, is just to link the added space to the return chamber. but seems like it won't matter since you need the space for the skimmer. basically I was trying to come up with a way to increase the return chambers size with out removing the baffles, already in the sump. just looked like you could squeak out 3 inches from the skimmer chamber by adding one more baffle. Hope that makes sense. Link to comment
bitts Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 If the return chamber is as big as it can be made. Than there are things that can be done to minimize the back flow. Link to comment
ajmckay Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 Anti-siphon towers! (To reduce the amount of back-flow in a power outage) I've tested mine (though it's still not permanently attached) and I get about 1/4" back-flow into my sump... Almost nothing really. Link to comment
bitts Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 yeah mine stays at the weir 90% of the time even. Link to comment
kgoldy Posted February 3, 2011 Author Share Posted February 3, 2011 After taking a closer look at things today, I think I may not have the two inches of flooding that I first thought... Though, I'm curious if the water level in my display will make it up to the bottom of the plastic rim or not. I'm not too concerned about backflow through the return pipe, I'll just keep the locline at the surface so it breaks siphon right away. The drain pipe has an anti siphon hole pre-drilled in it already. These are old pictures from when I first got the tank (too long ago)... I'll get better angles when I go home from work. Link to comment
kgoldy Posted February 4, 2011 Author Share Posted February 4, 2011 Took a few more pictures of my drain... Maybe you guys can help figure out where my water level might be- and how much water I can expect to flow into the sump with power off. Link to comment
kgoldy Posted February 4, 2011 Author Share Posted February 4, 2011 Got the wet test going on... Using a stock pump from BC29 to run from return chamber into fuge, and a Rio 2100 running from return chamber to skimmer chamber. Plugged in the skimmer just for fun... since I\'ve never used one before, and wanted an excuse to get the thing wet. Bubble traps are functioning as they should- no noise from dripping... no bubbles making it through. Now lets see if a photobucket slideshow works here... <div style=\"width:480px;text-align:right;\"><embed width=\"480\" height=\"360\" src=\"http://static.pbsrc.com/flash/rss_slideshow.swf\" flashvars=\"rssFeed=http%3A%2F%2Ffeed873.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fab300%2Fkgoldy1985%2Fsump%2520fuge%2520design%2Ffeed.rss\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" wmode=\"transparent\" /><a href=\"http://photobucket.com/redirect/album?showShareLB=1\" target=\"_blank\"><img src=\"http://pic.photobucket.com/share/icons/embed/btn_geturs.gif\" style=\"border:none;\" /></a><a href=\"http://s873.photobucket.com/albums/ab300/kgoldy1985/sump%20fuge%20design/\" target=\"_blank\"><img src=\"http://pic.photobucket.com/share/icons/embed/btn_viewall.gif\" style=\"border:none;\" /></a></div> (edit: Guess not...) http://s873.photobucket.com/albums/ab300/k...mview=slideshow <-----(view in reverse order) Link to comment
kgoldy Posted February 5, 2011 Author Share Posted February 5, 2011 Water level up front is just where I wanted it to be. This is how it will look when I put it in the cabinet, and put the door and trim on. The bottom piece of trim is applied with velcro... (Above pics from last night) I found this morning that there are a lot of bubbles stuck to the glass in every chamber. I hope this isn't what happens to my display.... The water in here is straight from the tap- I don't know if that makes a difference. Link to comment
bitts Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 That's lookin pretty damn good. Link to comment
paneubert Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 Bubbles will go away when things dirty/slime up enough. Brand new/clean glass and plastics always end up with bubbles when they hit water. I know that when you hear about micro bubbles are a result of skimming then it is sometimes because of chemicals in the water. I would assume that there are at least some chemicals floating around from the plastics and your sump silicone job. Link to comment
kgoldy Posted February 5, 2011 Author Share Posted February 5, 2011 Yeah, there are a few scratches in glass piece #1 from jamming the baffles in... it shouldn't be noticible since light is only going to be coming from the display side... but I'm debating emptying it, re-spraying what I can, and letting it cure a full week... ahhh, patience is hard to keep! I've got some old LR laying around I really wanted to stick in this sump this weekend to start recuring (cleaning up after months of neglect) so I can sell it. Bah. Link to comment
kgoldy Posted February 5, 2011 Author Share Posted February 5, 2011 You ever have a minute problem... Then try to fix it... And just jack it up way worse? Well, that's what I just did. Lesson learned- when a can of spray paint is near empty- just throw it out and start with a new can. Why? Because all that's left in the can is pretty much paint thinner and aerosol. Tried spraying over the little paint chips... Ended up with this- Attempt at repair with new can.... Link to comment
kgoldy Posted February 5, 2011 Author Share Posted February 5, 2011 ...Think I got it fixed. Gloss black fusion on the front of the pane of glass should hide it well, without being noticeable.... Edit- I totally messed up a good thing. The fact that I had to spray the inside of the display area will haunt me forever... Haha. <----Damn OCD. Edit: Can of Krylon says "apply second coat within 24 hours OR AFTER 7 DAYS." I now know why. Never had this problem spray painting metal or plastic, though... I use Krylon at work all the time. Link to comment
kgoldy Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 What do you guys think about building a rock wall inside the display fuge? I looked it up... "Great Stuff", two part epoxy, rock, sand, and light diffuser. Already got everything I need... Link to comment
ajmckay Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Hmm... sounds like a good idea. I'm not sure if great stuff is what you use though..... The one's I've read use a 2 part mix for foam... Who knows though. If someone's done it and it seems to last well then why not try it? It could be interesting. Just don't forget about your display tank! Link to comment
kgoldy Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 It could be interesting. Just don't forget about your display tank! Don't you worry, I just rearranged my rockscape a few minutes ago. The display hasn't been forgotten! Haha. Link to comment
bmac16 Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 pretty sweet idea you have going there....looking good Link to comment
ajmckay Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1935142 This guy used great stuff... It's still around too.. DH used it as well, the rocks/garden black stuff. Link to comment
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