Pyrocide Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 Is it possible to make the drain pipes for a pre-drilled take to be a bit quieter? I have heard about using a ball valve and limiting the water flowing through until essentially a siphon creates, not sure how but it would seem logical, siphons are quiet somewhat. One other thing, and this could be caused by a crack in the elbow that is sputtering water, but the jets coming from the return are not what i thought it would be coming from a Rio Hyperflow 32, and in addition to the loss of pressure, the jets are spewing bubbles all in the tank. Anyone have an idea? I will be replacing the elbow hopefully tonight if i can get by Lowes today. Link to comment
nibor Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 What sort of stand pipe do you have at the moment? You should only put a valve on a drain if you have a second drain with no obstructions. The reason for this is that a drain that is partially blocked by a half closed valve is very easily blocked by a snail, piece of algae..... Gate valves are much better than ball valves for accurately controlling flow by the way. The crack may well be the problem, are there any bubbles in the return section of the sump? Post pictures of what you've got. Link to comment
Pyrocide Posted December 29, 2010 Author Share Posted December 29, 2010 I believe i have 2 durso drain pipes already. They originally came with the stand and tank that was owned by an owner of a LFS, but I am thinking that I will need to create new ones. they look a bit used. However the bubbles are in the main display and from what i could tell, there are not micro bubbles in the sump, but bubbles from the drain pipes rushing down the hosing. I will try and get better pics on lunch, no sure how im going to get the pics of the durso pipes though... Link to comment
nibor Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 If you have two drain holes already drilled in the tank, look into the Herbie overflow. One drain is lower than the other and is controlled with a valve. The other drain is higher and acts as a back up. The greater the difference in height between the two, the easier it is to tune in as the water level can vary a little bit as flow conditions change. The higher drain should be able to handle all flow if you completely close the valve on the other drain. If it can not, you risk a flood. Link to comment
d9hp Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 BeanAnimal overflow. Watch the whole video the beginning you can hear a trickle because he has a pipe out of the water. LOOK AT THE FLOW. Link to comment
nibor Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 Bean's design is probably the most refined over flow design out there but you need three drains. It works especially well in shallow over flow boxes due to the second drain compensating for small variations in flow and water level in the over flow. With a deeper corner type overflow, you can achieve a similar compensation by having the siphon entry low in the over flow box and the emergency drain relatively high. As flow varies, the head of water above the siphon can move up and down to compensate without the emergency kicking in. As with any system there is a risk, in this case if your over flow box bursts a seam, the tank will drain down to the level of water above the siphon. There again, if your tank bursts a seam, it will all drain onto the floor. Moot point if the tank and over flow are well built. Link to comment
d9hp Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 There again, if your tank bursts a seam, it will all drain onto the floor. Moot point if the tank and over flow are well built. Great points nibor. As for the low siphon in the overflow, that's a great idea. As for the overflow breaking, I think there becomes a point where you can worry yourself out of the hobby, as you said. Link to comment
Pyrocide Posted December 29, 2010 Author Share Posted December 29, 2010 Its a DSA Custom Neo90, from everything i read they will outlast just about anything short of a natural disaster. Link to comment
Pyrocide Posted December 29, 2010 Author Share Posted December 29, 2010 I think im going to look into both herbie and beans design, if it means i hard plumb the return pump into the tank via PVC outside the tank so be it, but the gurgling is too much with 2 other large tanks with HOB filters it must stop at my tank being the noisiest. Herbie seems the simplest but also the only one with the worst case scenario for snails entering in both drain pipes. Would it help if i put a strainer on it? Link to comment
Aquanist Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 I have one of these babies covering my durso intake. NEVER have to worry about snails etc. Link to comment
Pyrocide Posted December 29, 2010 Author Share Posted December 29, 2010 Come to think of it, when i went home, im not sure if its my drains or the busted elbow that is making all the noise. Link to comment
bitts Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 lower one of the stand pipes by 4-5 inches & add a strainer, straight stand pipe no durso. use a gate valve to control the water line & set it to about 2-3inches above the stand pipe. the drain will be silent, herbie methodology. if there is a crack or opening in any part of the return line, it will cause it to aspirate. producing the bubbles. Link to comment
Pyrocide Posted December 30, 2010 Author Share Posted December 30, 2010 I got it fixed. On closer inspection of the elbow there was an anti-siphon hole drilled at the bottom of the return elbow. lifted the durso drain pipes up about 2 inch above the tank at its highest point and the tank instantly became whisper quiet, dropped my water level a bit, but I have 20G extra salt i made for this purpose. Thanks for the ideas though, friend of mine is ordering BRS Herbie setup for his 265. Link to comment
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