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Vase Pico?


Oakleyguy89

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The guy that started this trend hangs out here, Brandon.
yeah man, brandon is the dude to talk to... Brandon429 . The vases really do work, although if you are looking for a lid for the vase, i couldnt find any at walmart today. so idk about having to wait for the plant season to come around before trying to find one.lol
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yeah man, brandon is the dude to talk to... Brandon429 . The vases really do work, although if you are looking for a lid for the vase, i couldnt find any at walmart today. so idk about having to wait for the plant season to come around before trying to find one.lol

Maybe try a locally owned plant nursery? This thing looks like it would be fun, plus I like the look of the curved glass vase.

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http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores...catalogId=10053

 

 

I googled 'plastic planter dishes' and some came up you have to go to a local store to find the 6 to 8 inch ones...they are there year round somewhere in town because I buy changes about twice a year due to some light and salt induced opaqing.

 

this forum was the first one I posted on when I needed help in 2002 with a vase everyone contributes great stuff here

take the hamster water bottle topoff trick, or feeding large corals in a separate tank other than the show pico, that kinda innovation is unique to nanonerds much diversity is collected and sumped here lol.

 

whats the baddest light you can do for this tank? the 70 w metal halide viper light is only 89 now at hellolights.com and marinedepot, if you did that its the corvette of reef vase lights. unbeatable, there's a trick to dealing with the heat no big deal. I wouldn't even take an LED setup over the viper for a vase although I know 99% would recommend it...either way get a hotrod light, not a midsize...

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http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores...catalogId=10053

 

 

I googled 'plastic planter dishes' and some came up you have to go to a local store to find the 6 to 8 inch ones...they are there year round somewhere in town because I buy changes about twice a year due to some light and salt induced opaqing.

 

this forum was the first one I posted on when I needed help in 2002 with a vase everyone contributes great stuff here

take the hamster water bottle topoff trick, or feeding large corals in a separate tank other than the show pico, that kinda innovation is unique to nanonerds much diversity is collected and sumped here lol.

 

whats the baddest light you can do for this tank? the 70 w metal halide viper light is only 89 now at hellolights.com and marinedepot, if you did that its the corvette of reef vase lights. unbeatable, there's a trick to dealing with the heat no big deal. I wouldn't even take an LED setup over the viper for a vase although I know 99% would recommend it...either way get a hotrod light, not a midsize...

Yeah, I saw that. I do like the looks of it. How would I deal with the heat it puts out? Could I just keep it as far away as I can from the vase?

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to cycle it early on with your corals added you start it up higher with a slow increment move down. the stopping point in a few weeks will be the temp and the intensity as inferred from the upper corals. most reefbowls on the web have additional side light requirements which would be neat to circumvent with this approach. its not the only way, a stack of mixed 5050 pc bulbs is fine too but whatever you choose do it stronger than you'd planned, upgrades are no fun. the lighting is the only thing Id change about my vase, its bulky with two extra lights and nearly as warm. 70w are warm but not crazy hot and if I had one there would be a 120v rigged fan on top of it like a cpu wired into the setup or something similar.

 

 

then I would buy a lot of random sps plugs and glue them all over the vase, to the glass, the rocks, run the c balance dosing trick and begin tabletop pictures by summer time.

 

Micro metal halide is a really powerful sps grower, contending with the best 500 led setups for sure. You will most likely be sold on LED for this bowl but not me, Id do the viper. we can make it work with led as well if you want the cool output of that setup.

I have no animosity towards led. its only because I don't mind adjusting for heat something that will absolutely grow sps as fast as possible, mh is old school cool and just one of a few good ways to light a bowl.

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to cycle it early on with your corals added you start it up higher with a slow increment move down. the stopping point in a few weeks will be the temp and the intensity as inferred from the upper corals. most reefbowls on the web have additional side light requirements which would be neat to circumvent with this approach. its not the only way, a stack of mixed 5050 pc bulbs is fine too but whatever you choose do it stronger than you'd planned, upgrades are no fun. the lighting is the only thing Id change about my vase, its bulky with two extra lights and nearly as warm. 70w are warm but not crazy hot and if I had one there would be a 120v rigged fan on top of it like a cpu wired into the setup or something similar.

 

 

then I would buy a lot of random sps plugs and glue them all over the vase, to the glass, the rocks, run the c balance dosing trick and begin tabletop pictures by summer time.

 

Micro metal halide is a really powerful sps grower, contending with the best 500 led setups for sure. You will most likely be sold on LED for this bowl but not me, Id do the viper. we can make it work with led as well if you want the cool output of that setup.

I have no animosity towards led. its only because I don't mind adjusting for heat something that will absolutely grow sps as fast as possible, mh is old school cool and just one of a few good ways to light a bowl.

Yeah. I'll probably go with that HQI setup then. Do you think I will get that awesome shimmering effect with the vase with the metal hallides?

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where theres water movement, and MH, theres shimmer.

Awesome. Hopefully finances arent too tight to afford it. Oh brandon, btw your pm inbox is full :o

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hey just fixed it thx

 

we were talking about your small vase, you are doing one half the size under mine lol w metal halide.

 

watts per gallon sir will be shattered again as the 1200th old school rule pico reefs break.

 

 

if you go with the small normal vase they use in betta/lilly setups the coral will still grow but a shrimp might not be a great fit, thats half a gallon water volume in the container you are doing! lets switch to posting out here in case someone else wants to cobuild one.

 

Anyone should search for cichlidmania on youtube and see how he modified the bowl, using the airstone as partial drive for the vase but a small powerhead, a third line input into the bowl, as the primary driver. this took his topoff of the vase to over 8 days undrilled, thats the longest topoff interval, non ATO, of any tank made. if you do the small vase, the heater will take up a lot of stocking room we should search for the two gallon deco vases at wal mart and then with displacement they are one gallon.

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hey just fixed it thx

 

we were talking about your small vase, you are doing one half the size under mine lol w metal halide.

 

watts per gallon sir will be shattered again as the 1200th old school rule pico reefs break.

 

 

if you go with the small normal vase they use in betta/lilly setups the coral will still grow but a shrimp might not be a great fit, thats half a gallon water volume in the container you are doing! lets switch to posting out here in case someone else wants to cobuild one.

 

Anyone should search for cichlidmania on youtube and see how he modified the bowl, using the airstone as partial drive for the vase but a small powerhead, a third line input into the bowl, as the primary driver. this took his topoff of the vase to over 8 days undrilled, thats the longest topoff interval, non ATO, of any tank made. if you do the small vase, the heater will take up a lot of stocking room we should search for the two gallon deco vases at wal mart and then with displacement they are one gallon.

Yeah, ill look for a bigger vase. Are the deco vases at walmart the same shape as the one you used? Also, if my finances dont meet whats a different lighting option I can go for because the mini PC aqualight is discontinued and they are now using a 11" t-5 for the mini aqualights. I was looking at something like this: http://www.catalinaaquarium.com/product_in...14e0c95d8e4347f I also tried to search for cichlidmania on youtube and I cannot seem to find the vid your talking about.

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the only thing about a standard tank is the topoff...its more work

 

that is a sick light heck yes thats nice wow

 

I will favorite that, thumbs up

 

whats wierd is that ad says 3x13 and there's four bulbs...if those are the 13watt bulbs, x4, that's really nice. it will run warm too thats for sure.

 

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Yeah, ill look for a bigger vase. Are the deco vases at walmart the same shape as the one you used? Also, if my finances dont meet whats a different lighting option I can go for because the mini PC aqualight is discontinued and they are now using a 11" t-5 for the mini aqualights. I was looking at something like this: http://www.catalinaaquarium.com/product_in...14e0c95d8e4347f I also tried to search for cichlidmania on youtube and I cannot seem to find the vid your talking about.

just bought the Mh for my vase. all i need now is to take a trip to homedepot for a lid or 2. Ima use a gold fish bowl i found at walmart. it has a flat front on it(easier to clean im assuming).

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wow that could be a great learning experience on the different dynamics. my lighting is really kinda weak since I made the mistake of buying the mini aqualight must upgrade again to one of these

 

I paid 60 for the light 25 more dollars coulda got nuclear but even those power compacts are really nice and will grow sps. both of these high light vases should be really interesting.

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search ebay for gu10 3w led.

 

I have a 55 gallon completely lit by these lights.. they are only 3w each and $6-7 each.

 

they shoot about 1900 par with the optics on at the surface! 1100 with the optics off.

 

i had a nano for a year with them and had great success.

 

you could also see the lights in my 5.5g nano adventures in my sig

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wow that could be a great learning experience on the different dynamics. my lighting is really kinda weak since I made the mistake of buying the mini aqualight must upgrade again to one of these

 

I paid 60 for the light 25 more dollars coulda got nuclear but even those power compacts are really nice and will grow sps. both of these high light vases should be really interesting.

it better work brandon!!!lol.jkjk. its experimental anyways

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nah itll work no prob. space it however high it needs to be and then gradually work it down, you'll see first time its sunlike haze is powered on

 

you will need to use a tiny bit of clear tape to hold the lid down firm on the vase, there are imperfections in the lid and the vase neck that prevent a good seal unless its pressed, it will be a very clean look though when done.

 

what substrate are you guys getting. I always use caribsea arrive alive wet packed fiji pink. I dont think dry sand would matter this system relies more on manual prevention of sandbed fouling vs animal based prevention. since the bowl is fed and then the water is changed just after, little has time to penetrate the sandbed it lasts a long, long time.

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nah itll work no prob. space it however high it needs to be and then gradually work it down, you'll see first time its sunlike haze is powered on

 

you will need to use a tiny bit of clear tape to hold the lid down firm on the vase, there are imperfections in the lid and the vase neck that prevent a good seal unless its pressed, it will be a very clean look though when done.

 

what substrate are you guys getting. I always use caribsea arrive alive wet packed fiji pink. I dont think dry sand would matter this system relies more on manual prevention of sandbed fouling vs animal based prevention. since the bowl is fed and then the water is changed just after, little has time to penetrate the sandbed it lasts a long, long time.

i think thats what my lfs has...is it the one that has a booster pack inside?
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i think thats what my lfs has...is it the one that has a booster pack inside?
btw, i looked at the cichlid dudes vase, and i dont get his flow system/anywhere he explains it...do u knw what he did? also how does he go a week between topoffs? just a little confused here.lol
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nah itll work no prob. space it however high it needs to be and then gradually work it down, you'll see first time its sunlike haze is powered on

 

you will need to use a tiny bit of clear tape to hold the lid down firm on the vase, there are imperfections in the lid and the vase neck that prevent a good seal unless its pressed, it will be a very clean look though when done.

 

what substrate are you guys getting. I always use caribsea arrive alive wet packed fiji pink. I dont think dry sand would matter this system relies more on manual prevention of sandbed fouling vs animal based prevention. since the bowl is fed and then the water is changed just after, little has time to penetrate the sandbed it lasts a long, long time.

I was actually thinking about buying some GARF grunge possibly.

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Why the grunge? I'm thinking that with the huge water changes being made that the sandbed isn't really part of the filtration, detrius shouldn't be hanging around that long and any trace element replacement would be done via water changes also. Course I could be wayyy confused.

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