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Matt's 11g Green Leaf Rimless


Clavius85

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I like your plan for your light. You could probably build it yourself with some electrical conduit.

 

I would put the overflow and return on opposite sides like Coastie did. I think it will perform much better from a flow dynamics point of view.

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I like your plan for your light. You could probably build it yourself with some electrical conduit.

 

I would put the overflow and return on opposite sides like Coastie did. I think it will perform much better from a flow dynamics point of view.

Conduit would probably be the easiest way to do it. I guess it wouldn't look so bad if I spray painted it black or something.

 

And I'll probably go ahead and put the overflow on one side and the return on the other.

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So here is the standard 10g tank I'm going to use as the sump. I've drawn on the glass my plan for it. The water would flow from right to left, with the center area being for chaeto/a fuge, then it flows through the baffles and to the return area where the pump would be. I'd love to get some input on this as it's the first sump I've ever planned. Note: The top hash mark on the far right line is where water would flow over.

 

IMG_1701.jpg

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Looks exactly like mine which works like a charm.

 

The 3 panels on the right were 9" on mine and the far left one was 8".

 

I stole those dimensions from another member and they're working well.

 

 

 

Don't forget you want your sump to be able to retain the head water from the display tank in the event of a power loss. Just to be safe I'd lower your panels just a bit.

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Sump looks great to me. My last tank used the exact same thing (10g w/ 4 baffles).

 

I never had any issues with bubbles in the DT either.

 

GO FOR IT.

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Don't forget you want your sump to be able to retain the head water from the display tank in the event of a power loss. Just to be safe I'd lower your panels just a bit.

Ah, I forgot about that. Thanks.

 

Sump looks great to me. My last tank used the exact same thing (10g w/ 4 baffles).

 

I never had any issues with bubbles in the DT either.

 

GO FOR IT.

Thanks. I'm trying to keep it simple.

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The glass holes people are probably like WTH is up with all these KY people ordering our kits! HAHA Ryan ordered his yesterday!

 

Lol, and I'll be ordering one probably next week! :lol:

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I can't decide on lighting for this thing. At the moment I'm leaning towards 150w metal halide out of fear that 2 PAR38's won't be enough light...

 

At the moment MarineDepot has the 150w version of the Viper on sale for $115.50!

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IMO 2 par38's would be plenty for the tank. To me a 150w MH would be overkill for a 10 gallon, I had one over my 24 gallon and it seemed perfect, but im sure it could work. I would only get the halide if you plan on doing mainly sps. Ive seen 12 gallons running off of single par38's that looked nice, and im sure 2 would fill the tank up with light nicely.

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IMO 2 par38's would be plenty for the tank. To me a 150w MH would be overkill for a 10 gallon, I had one over my 24 gallon and it seemed perfect, but im sure it could work. I would only get the halide if you plan on doing mainly sps. Ive seen 12 gallons running off of single par38's that looked nice, and im sure 2 would fill the tank up with light nicely.

The only issue I have with using two PAR38's is finding a way to mount them without it looking fugly. I'm a real stickler for a clean appearance. I want to try to keep visible equipment to a minimum with this tank. And I just can't figure out how to make two PAR38's work...

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Tank was packaged very well and is in one piece! I also received my Glass-Holes overflow kit and return kit today. Here are some pics:

 

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