Nano-customs Retro par numbers

[jetfixr]

I have seen some videos on the web showing Nano-customs retrofit led kits. The numbers look great, there is only one thing missing...... WATER. Filling a biocube is about a 5 minute job. Given that such an easy task has been omitted, it would lead one to believe (either rightly or wrongly) that the par numbers for a filled tank are not favorable. I am kinda wondering what type of light penitration you could expect on the sandbed of a 28 nanocube or a 29 biocube. I have always been pretty impressed with nano-customs offerings, and nobody has anything bad to say about them. I have talked to them on the phone and customer service is top-notch. If you are designing a system, these videos are a bit misleading though. Adding water to their test tanks before taking par readings would show if you are getting acceptable readings at the sandbed without optics. If not, one could allow for this by simply going with more leds, decreasing the spacing, and using optics. I do not mean to bash nano-customs at all, I am just looking to design a DIY led setup that will fit my needs.

[jbfrompa]

I have seen some videos on the web showing Nano-customs retrofit led kits. The numbers look great, there is only one thing missing...... WATER. Filling a biocube is about a 5 minute job. Given that such an easy task has been omitted, it would lead one to believe (either rightly or wrongly) that the par numbers for a filled tank are not favorable. I am kinda wondering what type of light penitration you could expect on the sandbed of a 28 nanocube or a 29 biocube. I have always been pretty impressed with nano-customs offerings, and nobody has anything bad to say about them. I have talked to them on the phone and customer service is top-notch. If you are designing a system, these videos are a bit misleading though. Adding water to their test tanks before taking par readings would show if you are getting acceptable readings at the sandbed without optics. If not, one could allow for this by simply going with more leds, decreasing the spacing, and using optics. I do not mean to bash nano-customs at all, I am just looking to design a DIY led setup that will fit my needs.

 

If you look at the par plots for the par38 lamps on nano tuners it gives a reason for no water. And because of the properties of the water the par will increase through the water not deminish. Check it out on their website and if I was reading it wrong someone please correct me.

[evilc66]

I have seen some videos on the web showing Nano-customs retrofit led kits. The numbers look great, there is only one thing missing...... WATER. Filling a biocube is about a 5 minute job. Given that such an easy task has been omitted, it would lead one to believe (either rightly or wrongly) that the par numbers for a filled tank are not favorable. I am kinda wondering what type of light penitration you could expect on the sandbed of a 28 nanocube or a 29 biocube. I have always been pretty impressed with nano-customs offerings, and nobody has anything bad to say about them. I have talked to them on the phone and customer service is top-notch. If you are designing a system, these videos are a bit misleading though. Adding water to their test tanks before taking par readings would show if you are getting acceptable readings at the sandbed without optics. If not, one could allow for this by simply going with more leds, decreasing the spacing, and using optics. I do not mean to bash nano-customs at all, I am just looking to design a DIY led setup that will fit my needs.

Don't worry, it's a legit concern. Like jbfrompa said, PAR can actually increase because of the lensing effect the water's surface has as it moves.

 

I'm pretty sure Nick did a PAR measurement video on the NC12 that he installed our retro into. I'll have to see if I can get a link for the video from him. Stay tuned.

[jetfixr]

I think I saw the NC12, I have a BC29 though which is a bit deeper. I really have no problem going with optics or more leds if needed (although I don't think so). I have lots of requirements, firstly I want to keep the all-in-one look (not a frankenstien DIY setup). Secondly, no chiller. Thirdly, the ability to keep anything from clams and SPS to softies on the sandbed. Customizable kelvin settings thru the use of meanwell 60-48D drivers will be a nice added benifit (blue circuit and white circuit). Right now I am in the design phase. I think I can accomplish everything I want though.

[evilc66]

Nick sent me the link last night

 

 

This is for an NC12, but you get the idea of how this can perform. This is just a 3 strip retro, so the 5 strip retro for the larger tank will perform better, and be better suited for the larger tank. Keep in mind that the Apogee meter probably reads about 10-20% low on actual PAR numbers, as it's not very sensitive to blue light, of which there is a lot.