Fer21 Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 Hello all, well i used to have red algae growing in my sand so i thought it had to be replace so i did i add slowly sand but the red algae is now growing in the new sand( i didn't take out the old sand) so nos i think i have a phosphate problem. What aré some effective ways to eliminate phosphates from my 24 Aquapod i am currently using a product from Kent to help my get rid off the phosphates and i am not 100% sure of how much phosphates i have because my lfs use to test my water close so last week. Any help will be appreciated thanks ohh by the way i am runing a protein skimmer but i dodn't know if that would help! Link to comment
cdr5y7 Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 what type of water you using? id RO whats the TDS on it? what type of lights? how old? when/how much do you feed? Link to comment
nibor Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 Phosphates can be removed from the aquarium with water changes, chemical filter media and by growing and harvesting a macroalgae such as chaetomorpha in a refugium. To deal with red algae (cyanobacteria) there are a number of steps you can take as covered in your previous thread on this issue. Provide some answers to the questions asked in the thread below and you should get some replies aimed at the source of your problem. http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...=247720&hl= Link to comment
Fer21 Posted November 24, 2010 Author Share Posted November 24, 2010 I use RO saltwater that I buy from my lfs. What do you mean by TDS? I use the stock lights of the aquapod which are flouresent and they are very old and I haven't replace them because I am going to upgrade to MH. Link to comment
Fer21 Posted November 24, 2010 Author Share Posted November 24, 2010 Also I don't have any fish so I don't feed anything. Nibor do you think I have a nutrients ploblem instead of a phosphate ploblem? Also do you think that know that I have a protein skimmer it would help my get rid off the excess of nutriets? Thanks Link to comment
Lawnman Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 More water changes and run some Seachem sea gel or phosban.You should find out what the TDS is of the RO water you are buying.If it is just RO water and not RODI I am betting it has high TDS. A skimmer will help a little but more frequent water changes will cut the algea down quicker than a protein skimmer. Link to comment
Fer21 Posted November 24, 2010 Author Share Posted November 24, 2010 So I usually do water changes every 10 days so should I do it every 7 days? Link to comment
Lawnman Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 I have a 20 gallon tank with a 5 gallon sump. I change 4 gallons on sunday.Then 2 1/2 gallons on tuesday and 4 gallons on thursday. I never have to dose and I never have algea phosphates or nitrate problems.I would do 2 20% water changes a week to get that algea under control.A small bag of phosguard in your back chamber will do you a world of good along with more water changes. You will see that crap just disappear Link to comment
Fer21 Posted November 25, 2010 Author Share Posted November 25, 2010 All right!! So know my question is I think I am ready to start to make my own saltwater. I have take a look at Stevie “ How to do a Water Change" and my question is a refractometer really crucial or could I just buy a Hydrometer? Also is it hard to make your own saltwater? What are some crucial things you have to keep in mind? Link to comment
Lawnman Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 No you need a refracto hydrometers are junk.Making saltwater is easy. I have a maxijet 1200 in a 5 gallon bucket I put in the RODI water add salt let it mix 6-8 hours. Then I check the salinity if it is high I add more RODI water if it is low I add more salt and let it mix a few hours and check salinity again.I have a extra refractometer I will sale you for 15 dollars shipped.Has a clothe case and the refractometer. Link to comment
Fer21 Posted November 25, 2010 Author Share Posted November 25, 2010 Ok thanks and yes I have been looking for a refractometer long time ago thank you also which salt do you use? Link to comment
Lawnman Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 Oceanic salt I have been using it for almost 2 years. Link to comment
Fer21 Posted November 25, 2010 Author Share Posted November 25, 2010 Ok thanks. Thanks guys for all of your help!!! Link to comment
nibor Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 Also I don't have any fish so I don't feed anything. Nibor do you think I have a nutrients ploblem instead of a phosphate ploblem? Also do you think that know that I have a protein skimmer it would help my get rid off the excess of nutriets? Thanks By nutrients, I meant phosphates/nitrates. +1 to what Lawnman has said. If you test the quality of the RO/RODI water you are using with a TDS meter, make your own salt water using a quality salt and have a good set of test kits then you can keep control of the water you are adding to your aquarium. By testing the water in your aquarium you can monitor its quality from day to day. Then you just need to apply the basics to get the cyano under control. Make sure you have good flow (cyano thrives in areas of still water) and keep up with the water changes. A reasonable starter test kit is the API Saltwater Master (It includes pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate tests). Buy a decent phosphate test kit (Salifert/Elos) and you are equipped to test for mini-cycles (when adding new livestock) and nutrient levels. If you start keeping hard corals then you will find tests for calcium, alkalinity and magnesium useful. For the time being water changes should ensure these parameters stay at acceptable levels. To give you some idea of what it will cost for a complete set of tests: A TDS meter $25. API Saltwater Master $25 Salifert Phosphate test $20 Add in Lawnman's refractometer and you have all you need to start taking control of your water for less than $85. (By the way, I don't agree with Lawnman when he says hydrometers are junk. Hydrometers marketed for the aquarium industry are junk. That said, you should buy a refractometer). Link to comment
gluc0se Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 You need to change out your bulbs. I know it sounds crazy but old bulbs put off a different spectrum which sometimes encourages nuisance algae to grow. This isn't costly and is worth doing to save your tank. Link to comment
Fer21 Posted November 26, 2010 Author Share Posted November 26, 2010 ok thanks guys for answering my questions! Link to comment
Fer21 Posted February 1, 2011 Author Share Posted February 1, 2011 Hi guys , i still can't get rid of the cyanobacteria, i have been reading and it seems like it is due to accumulation of waste in the water so now what do i do? I do frenquent water changes but i wanted to know if maybe claning the back chamber of my tank will help since it has more detritus accumulated there that the accual display? Do you guys think it will halp? Also i was going to break up my tank but i change my mind but i sold my powerehead so i am going to buy another one soon probably this week or next week along with API master test kit. Thanks Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.