ReeferReefer Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 DIY from china? My LEDs are cheap too. I dont feel ripped off or like I have to lie about how my tank looks. I can honestly say that after a ton of research I found these DIY led set ups to be the most cost effective. The shimmer is great and my colors pop. But you are right about LEDs getting better and cheaper every day. Link to comment
halcyonism Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Hey guys I posted this in the LED groupbuy forum but I thought I might ask for a little guidance here as well How does this set up look? Im planning on 3 separate channels--NW,CW--R,Tq--TV,TV,RB,RB,RB would it be okay to have NW,CW,R,Tq all on one channel? Is that the entire array or just one cluster? What size tank / heat sink? Link to comment
mmcguffi Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Is that the entire array or just one cluster? What size tank / heat sink? That would be the entire array. They would be tightly mounted on the bottom of an actively cooled computer heatsink a la: the display would actually be sub-gallon -- talk about overkill lol. I want 'perfect' color but Im all ears to less ridiculous ideas. I just though using that many LEDs would allow me to perfectly dial in the color I want I would rather go overkill than halfass I hate my current RB:CW setup on my edge--I just want to make sure Im getting the best color possible from a new LED build Link to comment
skulls_and_sparrows Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 i have read through this entire thread and while it has really enlightened me, im still lost in what i should choose, lol. im looking for supplementation only. my tank is 24x24x26(tall), lights are 13" off waters surface and i am currently running 2 orapheks pr-25 uv's and two 21w 15-20k led bulbs (not sure of the brand, but they are all blue-ish, tey seem to be pretty good for a grow type light, but does wash out the tank a bit). the tank is only housing acans and a ric/yuma garden. so my goal is to go make every possible color pop out, i have no idea what leds to use, how many, what optics and then how to put it together. hoping people couod shed some light and help me out. Link to comment
marc111 Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 Hey guys I posted this in the LED groupbuy forum but I thought I might ask for a little guidance here as well How does this set up look? Im planning on 3 separate channels--NW,CW--R,Tq--TV,TV,RB,RB,RB would it be okay to have NW,CW,R,Tq all on one channel? Make sure you look at the max drive currents. For example Cree NW has a max of 1.5A where the red will have a max of 700 ma. They can be on the same string but will be limited by the smallest max current in the string. This will workOK but you are giving up some of the light output and efficiency of the higher current parts. Mark Link to comment
kory1006 Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 I currently have my 40b setup similar to sammy's and bensanders; 22 RB, 2B, 12 NW in clusters of 3. I am looking to add 3 more clusters of 1 DR, 1TV, and 1 TQ. Would a TV in the DR/TQ cluster look ok, or would it produce some odd color(s)? I plan on driving the DR/TV/TQ clusters at 700mA, dimmable. Link to comment
halcyonism Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 That would be the entire array. They would be tightly mounted on the bottom of an actively cooled computer heatsink a la: the display would actually be sub-gallon -- talk about overkill lol. I want 'perfect' color but Im all ears to less ridiculous ideas. I just though using that many LEDs would allow me to perfectly dial in the color I want I would rather go overkill than halfass I hate my current RB:CW setup on my edge--I just want to make sure Im getting the best color possible from a new LED build Heh, at less then a gallon all you would need is the 3up in the middle. Link to comment
jtl Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 I could really use some help. Background: I currently have 10 Par38 lamps that I purchased from Nanotuners, 6 are the 3-RB, 2-CW mix and the others are 2-RB and 3-CW. I was thinking of using 6 of the 3-RB/2-CW and supplementing with a DIY led build. My tank is 48 x 24. I thinking of adding the following: 6-XP-G NW, 8-XP-E RB, 6-XP-E BL, 4-Red, and 8 Violet. I want to limit this to 3 drivers if possible. I am thinking of using the Inventronics 40W or the Meanwell ELN 60-48 drivers. I also think I will use the BJB connectors. The distance to the water level is about 20" and to the sand is another 18". Questions: Suggestions on the mix of leds? What drivers? PWM or not? What optics? At this point I may just use POTs until I decide on a controller. I have a RKL but even if I add an ALC module I think it will only control 2 drivers. I know this is a lot to consider but any help will be appreciated. John Link to comment
Tyron Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 For my build, im going with the reef angel controller. It comes with 2pwm and if you add the pwm module you can controll 6 more. So 8 total channels Link to comment
kidrobot Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 hi its been a while i haven't been on this site and I've been hearing good reviews on ledgroupbuy.com exotic leds. Currently what I have set up is 12NW and 12RB and I was wondering if its possible in my current led build to swap out some leds and put in deep red, Turquoise, and true violet in there. See below of a layout and tell me if its good enough. Also I'll be needing another driver to power up 6 leds which one would you recommend.. Thanks Link to comment
basser1 Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 In all its glory! CW,NW,DR are in a series. I found this to be the best way to run them without a million drivers. The Blue, Royal blues are also in series together. This combo looks incredible and is by far the easiest thing to wire. The modules can also be ran in a parallel with each other for monster builds. Using a Burquest Gap Pad instead of messy thermal grease/epoxy or thermal tape. This stuff is extremely easy to use and also can be pulled off easily if needed. The overall size is 2.9"x1.5". Enjoy! -Dave I commissioned Dave to do a custom retro for my BC29. Today, Dave e-mailed me with a photo of my hood with his new 13up board. Needless to say I'm stoked and excited to get this baby on my tank!! Link to comment
Paleoreef103 Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Today, Dave e-mailed me with a photo of my hood with his new 13up board. Needless to say I'm stoked and excited to get this baby on my tank!! I can't wait to see what corals look like under these boards! Link to comment
marc111 Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 In all its glory! CW,NW,DR are in a series. I found this to be the best way to run them without a million drivers. The Blue, Royal blues are also in series together. This combo looks incredible and is by far the easiest thing to wire. The modules can also be ran in a parallel with each other for monster builds. Using a Burquest Gap Pad instead of messy thermal grease/epoxy or thermal tape. This stuff is extremely easy to use and also can be pulled off easily if needed. The overall size is 2.9"x1.5". Enjoy! -Dave A question Dave: When you put the NW, CW, DR in series on the same driver aren't you limiting the drive current vs the whites. For example Cree whites have a max drive of 1500mA while the deep reds I have seen are max 700 mA. Just curious, Mark Link to comment
Trick Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 I think all the rebel es's have a maxe drive current of 1000ma? Link to comment
DaveFason Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 You do. The DR has a max of 700mA but you can run it a bit higher if needed. I really find NO need to run LED's over 700mA. Never have, never will. Every LED build I have done has always been under 700mA. The ES line has a 1A limit. When running a CREE over 1A it also maxes it out to 5w. -Dave Link to comment
McJosh13 Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Has anyone considered combining the 440nm royal blue Rebel ES offered by Steve's Leds with 465nm cree royal blues XP-Es (D5 bin currently available at Cutter) + neutral whites. This would offer a large amount of coverage over the whole blue and near purple spectrums hitting both chlorophyll A and B peaks in the blue spectrum and should give a great actinic look to the royal blue portion that we are missing. The 440nm rebel ESs offer output equivalent to the best cree royal blues and have a large output from 430nm to 450nm. They probably have enough output all the way down to 420nm to exclude the need for the weak 420nm leds currently available. The 465nm Cree XP-E's will have good coverage between 455nm and 475nm and should cover the upper end of the royal blue/blue spectrum nicely. I am curently planning a refresh of my 3yr old led build with these leds (overall 2rb : 1nw ratio/ 2 440nm to 1 465nm rb ratio) Any thoughts? Link to comment
Tyron Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 What is the difference between cree deep red 660nm and exotic 660nm? I see builds using the exotic reds and was just wondering why. I plan on using the cree deep red LEDs on my ATS though and just want to see if they're any differences Link to comment
DaveFason Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 To my knowledge CREE does not make a 660. -D Link to comment
androidx1 Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 I keep changing my layout, and delaying making the purchase of the LEDs. My tank is a 34gallon RSM130 about 18inches deep. The LED's will be mounted in the hood so they will be very close to the water surface (approx. 2inches) my lates idea will incorporate 3 arrays of lights. The total amount of LEDs will be as follows: 18 - RB (Cree XTE) - Channel 1 dimmable 6 - CW (XML or XPG) - Channel 2 dimmable 6 - NW (XML or XPG) - Channel 2 dimmable 6 - CB (not sure of maker but 470nm) - channel 3 dimmable 6 - TV (not sure of the maker but 420nm) - channel 4 dimmable 3 - DR (not sure of the maker but 660nm) - channel 5 dimmable Each of the three arrays will look like the following: So my questions are as follows: 1. Is the ratio of RB to CW and NW look ok? 2. How about the ratio of CW to NW? 3. To many LEDs knowing that they will all be dimmable and many of them are for asthetics only and I assume will be dialed way down?? 4. Will heat be an issue mounting them in such tight array? will be mounting to a heat sink 5. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Mike Link to comment
Tyron Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 OK I see now, my mistake its cree xpe Red not deep red. Link to comment
halcyonism Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 I keep changing my layout, and delaying making the purchase of the LEDs. My tank is a 34gallon RSM130 about 18inches deep. The LED's will be mounted in the hood so they will be very close to the water surface (approx. 2inches) my lates idea will incorporate 3 arrays of lights. The total amount of LEDs will be as follows: 18 - RB (Cree XTE) - Channel 1 dimmable 6 - CW (XML or XPG) - Channel 2 dimmable 6 - NW (XML or XPG) - Channel 2 dimmable 6 - CB (not sure of maker but 470nm) - channel 3 dimmable 6 - TV (not sure of the maker but 420nm) - channel 4 dimmable 3 - DR (not sure of the maker but 660nm) - channel 5 dimmable Each of the three arrays will look like the following: So my questions are as follows: 1. Is the ratio of RB to CW and NW look ok? 2. How about the ratio of CW to NW? 3. To many LEDs knowing that they will all be dimmable and many of them are for asthetics only and I assume will be dialed way down?? 4. Will heat be an issue mounting them in such tight array? will be mounting to a heat sink 5. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Mike 45 LEDs over a 34g seems fairly excessive to me. I have 44 LEDs over 1/2 of my 120g which is 24" deep and I still have them dialed back to about 75%. Link to comment
mmcguffi Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 18 - RB (Cree XTE) - Channel 1 dimmable6 - CW (XML or XPG) - Channel 2 dimmable 6 - NW (XML or XPG) - Channel 2 dimmable 6 - CB (not sure of maker but 470nm) - channel 3 dimmable 6 - TV (not sure of the maker but 420nm) - channel 4 dimmable 3 - DR (not sure of the maker but 660nm) - channel 5 dimmable instead of the 470mm people have been advocating the 495mm. put directly next to a red in a 1:1 ratio ...but that's just opinion obviously and R&D on LED aesthetics is something that's going to be constantly changing for a while Link to comment
Paleoreef103 Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 instead of the 470mm people have been advocating the 495mm. put directly next to a red in a 1:1 ratio ...but that's just opinion obviously and R&D on LED aesthetics is something that's going to be constantly changing for a while I'd take a single royal blue out to try the 495 LED (right next to the DR) and cut the number of arrays down to 2 instead of three. It'll be more than enough. Link to comment
mmcguffi Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 I'd take a single royal blue out to try the 495 LED (right next to the DR) and cut the number of arrays down to 2 instead of three. It'll be more than enough. I wouldnt cut a RB for a 495. Those arent analogous. Id cut the 470 Link to comment
Paleoreef103 Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 I wouldnt cut a RB for a 495. Those arent analogous. Id cut the 470 I wasn't suggesting they were. I think the CB still has uses and that his tank won't suffer from a lack of pop because of swapping a RB for a Tuq. Anyway, either way it'll work. Link to comment
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