rndmcnflct Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 I have brought a 36 diy dimmable from Aquastyles and wanting to know what everyone thinks of this design? are the too far apart? will I get a spotlight effect? or will the colours mix well? also should I use the 60 degree optics that come with the kit or use none? the dimensions for the heatsink are 7.1"X0.9"X11.9" with a total of 18 LEDs. 8 x RB, 8 x CW(10,000K), and 2 x True Violet. They are 1.3" apart width ways and 2.3" apart length ways. The blue dots = RB, green dots = CW and red dots = true violet. The sure fire way to get optimal color blending and no spotlighting is to go optic-less and have the emitters as close to the surface of the water as possible. You could use the 60 degree lenses but you would have to lift the fixture off the water a ways. As for your spacing, that is precisely optimal. I have seen some very interesting growth pattern differences since adding the 660 to my tank. Corals seem to think they are in shallow water and I am now getting rapid growth sideways. That's amazing. More info/pics? Imagine 1 month 660's on, 1 month 660's off, to make giant branching SPS. Link to comment
DaveFason Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 660's wont make your tank break out with algae. -Dave Link to comment
Tyron Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 Definitely not saying you're wrong Dave (big dog) fason, but i was reading an article from ecotech (i believe, not 100 yet) saying the reason they didn't use deep red 660nm (cree) was because after testing the fixtures they noticed the algae was growing substantially more. So they chose a red orange instead. And I know the research being done at algaescrubbers.net with these same 660nm deep red LEDs has been phenomenal (I'm no expert though, check post by santamonica, Ace25, Floyd r turbo). So there is a shift going on now from cfl to LEDs in scrubbers. Anyway this is all I was trying to explain. Once I find the article I can link it, if anybody cares(about ecotech). Link to comment
land_lubber Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 The sure fire way to get optimal color blending and no spotlighting is to go optic-less and have the emitters as close to the surface of the water as possible. You could use the 60 degree lenses but you would have to lift the fixture off the water a ways. As for your spacing, that is precisely optimal. Thanks for that Has anyone tried the True Violets from Aquastyles? does anyone have an idea on the ratio for them? Link to comment
sammy113 Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 wow this thread has gone far and almost back to the beginning don't you think Dave? Link to comment
kgoldy Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 Definitely not saying you're wrong Dave (big dog) fason, but i was reading an article from ecotech (i believe, not 100 yet) saying the reason they didn't use deep red 660nm (cree) was because after testing the fixtures they noticed the algae was growing substantially more. So they chose a red orange instead. And I know the research being done at algaescrubbers.net with these same 660nm deep red LEDs has been phenomenal (I'm no expert though, check post by santamonica, Ace25, Floyd r turbo). So there is a shift going on now from cfl to LEDs in scrubbers. Anyway this is all I was trying to explain. Once I find the article I can link it, if anybody cares(about ecotech). I'm still trying to wrap my head around LEDs and everything about them... But... OSRAM website describes the red LEDs this way- LH CPDP OSLON SSL 150, hyper red (644 - 666 nm) Features Package: SMD ceramic package with silicon resin with lens Radiant Power: 332 mW at 400 mA and up to 746 mW at 1000 mA Feature of the device: small size high-flux LED for slim designs centroid wavelength: 656 nm Color: hyper red That's pretty damn close to the 660nm, no? Am I looking at the right specs? edit- Oh and CREE's reds are 620-630nm Link to comment
blasterman Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 My company has LEDs custom manufactured to specific color temps As I've sated many times before, color temp or CCT has *nothing* to do with reefing along with chromacity binning and never has. You can have two white LEDs with wildy differing spectra and yet they'll be rated at the same CCT. An LED with an initial blue of 457nm is going to look entirely different than an LED that starts at 448 (Rebel) while both may end up in a similiar chomacity bin. For that matter, I can have two LED's with identical color temps and if the CRI is 15 points apart they will look *nothing* alike. So, if you're just using color temp as your metric you are seriously missing the point of color standards. Also, Cree and the other high end Western companies are the only ones who follow any type of structure with this method. The Chinese just dump whatever they can sell for whatever price they can get away with, We might as well be rating LED's according to how much they weight rather than color temp. However, you do know *kinda* what to expect if you order a 4500k XP-G with a CRI of 80. A 10k cool white LED is no different than a 6000k cool white except the former lacks as much secondary phosphor and was typically a reject bin. So, it's marketed towards reefers who don't know any better and buy into the marketing lie that the LED was specifically made for reefing when it was just a uber_crappy cool white to begin with. Link to comment
Tyron Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 Hmmmm, well I don't know either then. I stand down on this issue. (might even add a few to a future build). Link to comment
kgoldy Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 Anyone have suggestions for LED combinations for planted tank/display fuges? I was thinking of mixing something like TV:CW:NW:WW:DR 2:8:8:4:2 At the moment I have a 10000k BoostLED PAR30 and a few off the shelf PAR30's from Home Depot... I can't remember the kelvin rating on those when I picked them up- but feel like they might be closer to warm white. Either color and anything between would look just fine to me. It's not quite THIS obvious where the 10000k lamp is in person... (old pic, wasn't very familiar with shooting LEDs) I may order two of those cheapo 12x3W aquastyle LED kits. For $160 delivered, and the fact that this isn't for my main dispay (lights will be hidden in cabinet) I'm pretty tempted. Link to comment
Trick Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 What is the difference between the cree 660nm and the osram deep red (660) Link to comment
Milad LEDGroupBuy.com Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 What is the difference between the cree 660nm and the osram deep red (660) CREE doesnt have a 660nm Link to comment
Trick Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 Whoops, so osram and bridgelux are the only ones with deep red right now? Link to comment
TinyGiant Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 Video of my Lighting setup Video of my Whole tank (one year mark) two videos of my tank under gu10 LEDs from ebay Link to comment
AlanStanwyk Posted December 27, 2011 Share Posted December 27, 2011 So back to Aesthetics... Can anyone summarize the latest? Is TV obsolete with the additon of 660nm with Royal Blue? Cool blue still beneficial? Ratio of CW to NW still about 50/50? Thanks. Link to comment
Milad LEDGroupBuy.com Posted December 27, 2011 Share Posted December 27, 2011 So back to Aesthetics... Can anyone summarize the latest? Is TV obsolete with the additon of 660nm with Royal Blue? Cool blue still beneficial? Ratio of CW to NW still about 50/50? Thanks. Aesthetically, customers are telling me their 420nm (TV) make a big impact even on by themselves (and i agree). The actinic look they provide cant be beat. the 660nm are great. Cool Blue (470-480) is going to bring out colors that CW/RB combo just doesn't bring out. CW is 50/50 with RB NW is 34/66 with RB Turquiose (495nm) mixed with 660nm and the RB creates a white light a still brings out the colors Cool Blue will but without struggling not to windex the tank or make it too red. Those our experiences, others will have their opinions. Link to comment
DaveFason Posted December 27, 2011 Share Posted December 27, 2011 I'll have my new 13Up boards in two weeks. 1.5"x2.9" rectangle with 1 DR, 2 Blue, 5 RB, 2, NW, 3 CW. Say goodbye to color blending and soldering. -Dave Link to comment
Tyron Posted December 27, 2011 Share Posted December 27, 2011 I am excited about this^^^ Link to comment
Milad LEDGroupBuy.com Posted December 27, 2011 Share Posted December 27, 2011 I'll have my new 13Up boards in two weeks. 1.5"x2.9" rectangle with 1 DR, 2 Blue, 5 RB, 2, NW, 2 CW. Say goodbye to color blending and soldering. -Dave So is the 13th LED a magical one? Link to comment
Trick Posted December 27, 2011 Share Posted December 27, 2011 I bet it's a tv or uv. Or is it another warm color? Link to comment
Trick Posted December 27, 2011 Share Posted December 27, 2011 I'll have my new 13Up boards in two weeks. 1.5"x2.9" rectangle with 1 DR, 2 Blue, 5 RB, 2, NW, 2 CW. Say goodbye to color blending and soldering. -Dave Will the boards themselves be available on nano box? If so do you have a ball mark price? Link to comment
rndmcnflct Posted December 27, 2011 Share Posted December 27, 2011 So back to Aesthetics... Can anyone summarize the latest? Is TV obsolete with the additon of 660nm with Royal Blue? Cool blue still beneficial? Ratio of CW to NW still about 50/50? Thanks.I don't know what the accepted mix is, but the fixture I'm working on now is going to have the following ratios: 2 CW : 2 NW : 1 Blue : 4 Royal Blue : 1 660 Red : 2 420 Violet Three sets of that, mounted close to the water with no optics, all independently dimmable with buckpucks. 6 pots to dial in whatever color I want... yes, I have money to burn. Link to comment
Tyron Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 I'll have my new 13Up boards in two weeks. 1.5"x2.9" rectangle with 1 DR, 2 Blue, 5 RB, 2, NW, 3 CW. Say goodbye to color blending and soldering. -Dave Has it been 2 weeks yet? Lol Link to comment
AlanStanwyk Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 I was just floored by how uber radical rndmconflict is and how much $ he has to burn. However, looking forward to Daves photos as well. Link to comment
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