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LED Aesthetics: What do you really think of your color?

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No incentive. They never asked for minimums. They want a minimum of 1000 peices this time. I don't think we can get that many orders in a reasonable amount of time. Still working on it though.

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No incentive. They never asked for minimums. They want a minimum of 1000 peices this time. I don't think we can get that many orders in a reasonable amount of time. Still working on it though.

I will order 6.

 

994 left.

 

c'mon peoples, lets do this!

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Hello,

 

I too am looking to get an order in of TV if possible....looking for 8 to 12.

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I'll take another 24, maybe a few more depending... we got this... Come on, Clyde! :D

 

Brandon

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I'll take 1000 and sell them to the masses! *grin*

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Would the combination of 12 XL-M NW @ 700mA to 20 XP-E RB's @ 700mA be an ok mix? I will have dimming capabilities...

 

If you're referring to the Cree 'XM-L' the ratio sounds about right. You'll want to be able to at least dim the neutrals though to adjust to taste. The royals will be just fine at 700mA

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Hey guys, dont mean to go off topic for a second, but is there any way i can change the title of this thread so 46,xxx people dont think im illiterate. LED Aesthetics: What do ___ really think of your color? :lol:

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Just full edit the post. It allows you to change the title.

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When people are talking about using 2 RB to 1 NW, what actual LEDs are you talking about.

Are they XR-E/XP-G/XM-L ?

 

I am hoping to achieve a 12000k type look which I currently get from MH.

Basically a nice clean white with a very slight hint of blue.

 

Currently looking at XR-E RB's and XP-G NW's

Not sure if I need 2:1 of those or what?

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When people are talking about using 2 RB to 1 NW, what actual LEDs are you talking about.

Are they XR-E/XP-G/XM-L ?

 

I am hoping to achieve a 12000k type look which I currently get from MH.

Basically a nice clean white with a very slight hint of blue.

 

Currently looking at XR-E RB's and XP-G NW's

Not sure if I need 2:1 of those or what?

 

Generally people are referring to any of the series. Personally I'm using XP-E Blues and XP-G Neutral Whites.

 

I think the best way to get the color you want is to use dimmable drivers and play with the white vs blue.

 

Brandon

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Generally people are referring to any of the series. Personally I'm using XP-E Blues and XP-G Neutral Whites.

 

I think the best way to get the color you want is to use dimmable drivers and play with the white vs blue.

 

Brandon

 

I don't get how people can compare XM-L to XP-G for example?

Aren't the XM-L's twice the lumens/power, so you require half the amount?

 

With your XP-E Blues and XP-G NW, what mix are you using?

And what level are you running them at?

 

I would assume the perfect level is when you can run your LED's at 100% (of a safe under-driven level, lets say 70%) and have the colours look right.

If you have to dim either, doesn't it just make sense to use more or less of them.

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It is true that the ideal level is when you run everything at 100% and it looks right.

 

However, it is MUCH easier to tweak a pot than add/delete LEDs. And you're going to have outstanding PAR either way. And you can definitely add/delete LEDs all you want. The problem is that you come up with a pattern that you use on your entire build to get good spread of light without spotlighting. Once you decide that this is too blue or not blue enough, you need to redo the entire thing to balance your new LEDs into the equation. Its incredibly labor intensive. My plan is to run my blues full-bore and adjust the whites, which will be running higher, to get my color.

 

I'm planning on a 2-1 blue to white ratio. I will be running my XP-Gs at 1000mAh and my blues at 700mAh. I would have built my fixture this weekend, but I'm soon going to be upgrading to a larger tank, so I'm holding off. :)

 

Brandon

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Aren't the XM-L's twice the lumens/power, so you require half the amount?

 

Nah...XM-L's are only like 10-15% more efficient than XP-G's, and that's in cool bins. XP-G's made a bit bigger leap when they hit the market. So, we're seeing diminishing returns. The reason we don't push XM-L'

s is simply because of available optic options, but if you're running bare by all means use the best emitters you can get your hands on.

 

I prefer to set things up like NeveSSL is referring to, and that's run my blues at a fixed level for optimum performance / PAR, and then design my whites circuit (dimming) so it's just a bit over-kill. This way I'm always within 20% of my optimum color preference, not wastign LED's, and tweaking color doesn't impact PAR much.

 

Given there are no state of the art RB's on the market we don't really have a choice. :angry:

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The XM-L has a lower forward voltage while being ran at 700mA-900mA. Once you turn them up they will produce a higher lumen ( they can handle 3A ) but the efficiency starts to get lower and lower. Plus you have to factor in the heat that it will produce. If you want the most efficient DIY rig out there use the XM-L and run it ~700mA, The only problem is the price is higher than the XP-G, for efficiency that most nano tanks wont really notice.

 

-Dave

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Like Brandon. The wild part is with just the RB on, the meter maxes out!

 

-Dave

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So I just upgraded my lighting on my 60gal cube with the general consensus here. about 1:2 neutral white to RB. Its actually. 1:1.714 with a total of 38 leds.

Personally I'm happy with it, but I think it looks a little bit too "purple".

I was thinking that adding a few green led's would balance it back out.

This is based on the RBG color balancing, where I am heavy in the RB but lacking G.

I also understand that the human eye is extremely sensitive to green so I would only add very few like 2 or 4 total.

What does everyone think?

 

This is completely based on human eye aesthetics, not PAR or anything else.

Edited by Dustin11

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Why not add a few regular blues? That is generally recommended for more green. In fact, its a big part of this thread. :)

 

How is your PAR with the 38 LEDs over your 60g cube? I'm about to purchase a 60g cube as well. :)

 

Brandon

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I don't have a PAR meter. I can tell you that visually its brighter them my previous 14k 250W MH.

Soooooo........ add blue to get green huh?

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Yep. The regular blue LEDs have a lot more green in them than the RBs. And, FWIW, people are referring to them as "cool blues".

 

Brandon

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I was thinking that adding a few green led's would balance it back out.

 

My first suggestion would be to turn up your whites a bit. This helps negate the purple cast. This is why I tell people to shoot for over-kill on the whites a bit so you can adjust to taste.

 

Or, try a single superglued Green to the sink so it's easy to remove and see if it's moving in the right direction.

 

Adding more blue LEDs won't help.

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