Machupicchu Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 How big is your fuge? I would ditch the blues as they are hardly used by plants and go with either 1 red and 11 cool white or a half and half neutral and cool white. Or like 3 warm 9 cool. The plants respond well to light in the 6500k spectrum as well as a little in the red. The cools put out the most lumens and fit the color spectrum, i have 3 CW over a 5 gallon (half a 10) fuge and my macro goes nuts, plus i think the crisper white looks better over a planted environment. Link to comment
disaster999 Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 its not for a fuge, this is for a frag compartment in my sump. frag compartment is 18.75"x10"x10" Link to comment
blasterman Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 I would ditch the blues as they are hardly used by plants There's been no proof that aquatic fauna or algae use anything other than shortwavelengths - aka BLUE. Tomatoes or pot plants on the other tend to prefer red light. The plants respond well to light in the 6500k spectrum as well as a little in the red. 6500K isn't a spectrum for the same reason an orchestra playing isn't a specific Hz. Also, two different CFLs or T5s or halides at 6500 might be putting out entirely different spectrums because color temp is an average, not a specific spectra. Macros go crazy over cool whites because of the strong blue spectra. There's very little red in a CW. Link to comment
Machupicchu Posted February 16, 2011 Author Share Posted February 16, 2011 Sorry i read fuge for some reason, ignore my post, it was pretty late i posted that As for the color, iv heard from several other people that the macroalgae shows better growth under light with less blue and more warmer colors, i do realize there could be countless other variables to take into consideration however, including like you said difference in LED CFL etc... simply posting what ive heard. Also iv had 10k t5s, 6500k cfls, and cool white leds over my fuge and the plants have done far better under 6500k LEDs and CFLs than 10K t5s so i would assume that blues are needed less, but without numbers and research im simply going of my experience. Should have put an IME before the previous post. Link to comment
blasterman Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 plants have done far better under 6500k LEDs and CFLs than 10K t5 I hear what you're saying and don't disagree with your conclusions at all. However, the fact is that all these light sources have just a tiny amount of red spectrum and a large amount of blue green. So, the changes in growth don't really have much to do with red light because it's rather insignificant to beging with. For red light to make a difference in terrestrial plant growth you need tens of watts of dedicated red LED, or hundreds of watts of of HID like high pressure sodium. If you found better plant growth with a warm white LED than a cool white LED it would be an interesting observation and something to talk. However, the light sources you are listing have such anemic amounts of red to begin with it just doesn't matter. Link to comment
NanNewB Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 Ok here's the plan to do a lighting upgrade to my Nano 28g. I was thinking of 29 LED's with 6cw 4nw 11rb 4b and 4v. 5 rows and 4 violets in between each row center. Is this too many violets and blues? I know the XP-G are brighter and need less so I was thinking 10 whites with 11 Royal Blues and low mix of the other colors. I will use a separate driver for the violets since they will be driven at 500ma. Anyone else use a similar combo? Link to comment
NanNewB Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 after reading I think I'll go with 5 clusters of 2rb 2nw and then 2tv and 4cb in between the clusters. Link to comment
blasterman Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 Just a note that I recently switched (again) to Neutral White Bridgelux 402s running off a 48D and matching 10watt 445s running at a fixed amp. I was using neutral white K2 / TFFCs, and even at an amp I didn't think they could quite keep up with the 445s'. The Bridgelux aren't running anywhere near flat out, but it's so far the nicest mix I've used and certainly best bang for the buck. The 445's have been running fixed at an amp for quite awhile now and have performed flawlessly. I adjust color by only dimming the Bridgelux 402s, and everything is good. I simply can't get cool-blues mixed in to look right, so I've given up on those. XPGs combined with the 445s were my second choice. If you could actually find XPGs around 5000k they would make for a good compromise and likely please the largest demographic, but as it stands typical cool white LEDs tend to hover no lower than 6000k and look nothing like neutrals. Link to comment
DaveFason Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 Blaster - I really wish the XM was in NW. Sigh.... Link to comment
blasterman Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 I hear ya'. Not sure why so many of these new Cree packages are only available in high CCTs'. Pay attention to the new CXA20...although it hasn't hit the street yet. More of a Bridgelux competitor, and I'm curious how it will price compared to Bridgelux. Link to comment
evilc66 Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 That's the new Cree Easy-White LED that looks like a Bridgelux 800 series LED right? I saw it on Cree's site recently, but can't seem to find it again. EDIT: Found the press release, and an image now that I know what it's called. http://www.cree.com/press/press_detail.asp?i=1291645561776 Link to comment
snguyen77 Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 Sorry if i have missed the info, but where do you guys get your NW, TV, and Cyan LEDs from? Link to comment
Pyrocide Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 I would also like to know where to get the TV LEDs. As I understand it Nanocustoms/tuners have stopped selling, for the time being, individual LEDs to concentrate more on their retrofits more, as per Nick. Which is fine, i totally understand. Also, has there been any word on a driver fit for the 500mA max current for the TV? Link to comment
kayl Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 I'm in the preliminary stages of my DIY build for my 28 gallon nanocube. I've got 4x25watt 700mA Thomas Research drivers on the way - I'm planning on running 10 CW, 10 NW, 20 RB. Any color mixing thoughts? Obviously, I don't plan on running the lights @ full blast! Link to comment
JSVAND5 Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 I'm in the preliminary stages of my DIY build for my 28 gallon nanocube. I've got 4x25watt 700mA Thomas Research drivers on the way - I'm planning on running 10 CW, 10 NW, 20 RB. Any color mixing thoughts? Obviously, I don't plan on running the lights @ full blast! I'd skip the CW. I have 8 NW, 4 CW, and 18 RB's on my tank and I wish I would have ditched the CW all together. I will probably replace them at some point. Link to comment
NeveSSL Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 Do you have any pics, jsvand5? I'm debating on doing the same... ditching CW for all NW. Brandon Link to comment
Genj Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 I would also like to know where to get the TV LEDs. As I understand it Nanocustoms/tuners have stopped selling, for the time being, individual LEDs to concentrate more on their retrofits more, as per Nick. Which is fine, i totally understand. Also, has there been any word on a driver fit for the 500mA max current for the TV? I ordered a 5 more and hope they come in at some point. It's been over a month. Otherwise, I don't know where to get them. Link to comment
kayl Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 I'd skip the CW. I have 8 NW, 4 CW, and 18 RB's on my tank and I wish I would have ditched the CW all together. I will probably replace them at some point. You'd recommend only NW and RB? If I did that, I could always use the XP-L NW's and run 12 NW to the 20 RB's... Link to comment
jfarabaugh Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 I would also like to know where to get the TV LEDs. As I understand it Nanocustoms/tuners have stopped selling, for the time being, individual LEDs to concentrate more on their retrofits more, as per Nick. Which is fine, i totally understand. Also, has there been any word on a driver fit for the 500mA max current for the TV? at this point I would forget the TV leds ever existed as if you didn’t get any from the first order I don’t think you will ever be getting any.....same goes for the driver Link to comment
blasterman Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 You'd recommend only NW and RB? Mixing NW's and CW's is a bit redundant because it's the same spectrums but different weights. NW's just have more red/yellow in them. There's nothing that says you can't do this, and the result is you just get a color temp between 4100k (typical NW's) and 6000k (most Crees). If NW's were a bit too warm and CWs too cool for you, then mixing the two would get you to your sweet spot. However, it seems most people who have switched to NW's aren't claiming they are too warm, so we are defaulting to the advice of mixing the two being a bit of a waste of time. Obviously if you have the time and the parts you can try mixing the two in a smaller scale and see if you prefer a mix or just using NWs. Link to comment
evilc66 Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 at this point I would forget the TV leds ever existed as if you didn’t get any from the first order I don’t think you will ever be getting any.....same goes for the driver This sadly may be the case. We are still trying to work with the manufacturer on reducing the minimum order quantity, as well as potentially sourcing a similar LED from elsewhere. It may take some time to get it sorted out though. My appologies to those that have placed orders for these with us. Link to comment
kayl Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 Mixing NW's and CW's is a bit redundant because it's the same spectrums but different weights. NW's just have more red/yellow in them. There's nothing that says you can't do this, and the result is you just get a color temp between 4100k (typical NW's) and 6000k (most Crees). If NW's were a bit too warm and CWs too cool for you, then mixing the two would get you to your sweet spot. However, it seems most people who have switched to NW's aren't claiming they are too warm, so we are defaulting to the advice of mixing the two being a bit of a waste of time. Obviously if you have the time and the parts you can try mixing the two in a smaller scale and see if you prefer a mix or just using NWs. Would the combination of 12 XL-M NW @ 700mA to 20 XP-E RB's @ 700mA be an ok mix? I will have dimming capabilities... Link to comment
doctaq Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 i dont think the xp-l is a real led Link to comment
kayl Posted February 26, 2011 Share Posted February 26, 2011 i dont think the xp-l is a real led Lol- fixed Link to comment
Genj Posted February 26, 2011 Share Posted February 26, 2011 This sadly may be the case. We are still trying to work with the manufacturer on reducing the minimum order quantity, as well as potentially sourcing a similar LED from elsewhere. It may take some time to get it sorted out though. My appologies to those that have placed orders for these with us. What incentive did they have on the first batch? Also, how many are they asking for? 10,000? Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.