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Cultivated Reef

Need Advice: 40B drilling, herbie, return


Deleted User 6

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doing the corner overflow is probably what i would recommend. the way you described it is a very solid build. yes there needs to be room to fit a hand & retive snails, crabs, filter screens that have clogged. that was the thing i hated about my ten. how ever glass may be easier to build with.

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Deleted User 6

I'm gonna see if I can get someone to make one for me. If not, then I'll get some glass cut and krylon fusion it.

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with it being a 40 a 6 x 4 overflow wouldent take up to much room, but it would give you a 10 inch weir.

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exactly thats why i like the exo & coast to coast. like my exo has a 20 inch weir on a 29 gallon tank. as the weir increasses the flow at any one point over it is reduced.

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Exo's IMHO while being more work are preferable, due too the need for space inside the tank & a cleaner look. But as I said before the corner overflow that was brought up earlier is a solid build. A coast to coast can be added to it with out much work if this is tempting. Also with out having to hold the drans the size can be greatly reduced, making for a much cleaner tank.

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Deleted User 6

Ok, so let me recap and post some supplies options and see if I'm on the right track:

 

Tank: 40B

Drains: 1" bulkhead with standpipes and strainers drilled on the bottom in the back left corner. Gate valve on main drain.

Overflow box: custom black acrylic, wide enough for my hand, full tank height.

Return: 300gph pump?, 1/2"-3/4" bulkhead, depending on return pump output, on back of tank. Flex tubing, hose barb, loc-line.

Sump: 20H (i'm fighting a 20L - the only reason I want 20H is so I can fit my ATO reservoir in the stand with the sump).

 

So, how are we doing?

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looks good, mostly I would add the location of the siphon break. thus planning for the back flow, just to not forget about it.

 

pump may not need to be 300ish, could maybe do an ehiem 1048 and save on power needs & heat. depends on head pressure.

 

one thing about acrylic is that its ability to bond to glass is low when siliconed (if any). this is why i brought up glass. abs would be better or acrylic with glass supporting. also a good silicone. check nano pauls thread for info, but either dow 999a or dow 795 would be my go to for this.

 

 

yeah looks good, pull trigger.

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Deleted User 6

you sure the eheim 1250 isn't better? it's gonna have about 4-5' head (that sounds familiar, snicker).

 

and what do you mean about the glass? what's abs? you're saying I should get glass cut for the overflow, yes? anywhere do colored glass? i like the idea of a black overflow.

 

and when you say location of the siphon break, what do you mean?

 

I really appreciate all the help, man. It's good stuff.

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you sure the eheim 1250 isn't better? it's gonna have about 4-5' head (that sounds familiar, snicker).

 

it would be one of the 2 depending on the head, my thought was more to not overlook the smaller pump if it would work. with an mp 40 the return pump could be at a trickle and it wont matter.

 

 

and what do you mean about the glass? what's abs? you're saying I should get glass cut for the overflow, yes? anywhere do colored glass? i like the idea of a black overflow.

 

silicone bonds very well when its glass to glass, but acrylic will have a weak bond that will later leak.

if running acrylic put it over glass. glass for strenght & acrylic for looks (stick the acrylic overflow to the glass overflow. maybe see if they could bend a small bit forming a lip so it could hang over the glass. being removable to clean). could use black glass from glass shop. abs sheet would be like what they call starboard that is used in barebottom setups or cutting boards. google abs sheet.

 

yeah overflows look best when black.

 

 

and when you say location of the siphon break, what do you mean?

 

if the outlet of the return is below the water line. then when the pumps are powered down water will siphon back to the sump unless theres a siphon break (small hole) for air to stop it (break siphon).

 

I really appreciate all the help, man. It's good stuff.

no worrys this is the fun part, who cares about fish.

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Inside the tank. The higher in the water colume the less back flow there will be. Just get it low enouhg to not cause bubbles. If the returns are through the back wall then it will most likely be at this point. Drill a small hole in the locline the screws into the bulkhead. There are other ways that can keep the waterline higher. Just depends on how much you like plumbing. My 29 has antisiphon towers that keep the siphon brake above the waterline, so there's no backflow.

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Deleted User 6

bah, meant to post this here:

 

I'm thinking about doing what they do here:

 

 

are those standpipes too tall? should I just make the main drain about half as tall as the tank itself? I'm planning to drill two 1 3/4" holes 2" from the back and left walls of the tank. if that's a go, let me know and I'll drill baby drill.

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Deleted User 6

Also, I think I'm gonna order from McMasterCarr for some stuff (cheaper) and marine depot (i have a gift cert) and also glass-holes.com . Someone check this parts list (part numbers included) and let me know if I'm on the right track:

 

 

I'm also getting the Eheim 1250 (ouch budget): http://www.marinedepot.com/Eheim_Universal...IWPSBUF-vi.html

 

Alright is there anything I am missing?

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Ok so from what I can see looks pretty good. the check valve has me worried, they fail at an alarming rate.

 

 

 

Every thing on that list except the locline, bulkheads, & strainers, Well the pump as well, Should be available from the box store (home depot, lowe's) in the plumbing isle. Oh wait they don't have gate valves.

 

 

 

I like my plumbing behind the tank, seems easier to setup. It pushes the tank out from the wall though.

 

 

 

Pertty sure all of my stuff is 40 so it should be fine.

 

 

 

That pump is well pricy, but you'll love it.

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