senoufo Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 (edited) nope, each string of color is dimmable so i can acclimate anything i put in the tank. I have the leisure to run at full power but i won't need to ;-) i made a foot out of MDF so the hood would be raised 3/4 of an inch so anything stuffed in the hood would clear the u shaped opening which is also raised as you know. Of course the MDF was primed, painted and sealed so no issues with moisture. parts list: 6 CW crees ( nanotuners ) 6 RB crees ( nanotuners ) 2 buckpucks ( the ones with the pots and at 1000mA, LEDsupply.com ) 1 heatsink ( heatsink usa, 7.28 x 8 ) 1 fully threaded long stud ( hardware store ) 1 plastic hollow long standoff ( hardware store ) 2 24 volts 6 amp power supply ( Potrans ) 1 universal 12v adapter ( hardware store ) 1 120mm x12mm fan ( scythe at frozencpu.com ) ideas where gathered from different builds ( http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...200335&st=0 ) Edited October 8, 2010 by senoufo Quote Link to comment
MPevine11 Posted October 8, 2010 Share Posted October 8, 2010 awesome, thank you much! what heatsink woul you recomend? Quote Link to comment
senoufo Posted October 8, 2010 Share Posted October 8, 2010 it was this one: http://www.heatsinkusa.com/storename/heats...l-10502734.aspx 7.28 x 8 fits nicely ( look at the footprint at the top of this thread, i have a pix. Quote Link to comment
MPevine11 Posted October 8, 2010 Share Posted October 8, 2010 how deep is it? i dont want to have to rise mine if i dont have to..... that does seem like a good fit though! just need to know the depth Quote Link to comment
senoufo Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 (edited) i guess you mean high? if so yeah that's the head-scratcher if you don't want to raise your height, all builds will have to clear the u shape opening of the "edge" therefore unless you can get yourself a slim-profile height heatsink...the height is available on the vendor site. thats why i built the way i did, with the 4 threaded posts i can tweak height AND angle of the whole assembly inside the hood, the height added by the foot is less than 3/4 inches but makes a world of difference in terms of efficiency and practicality. with my particular build i needed to raise so that i would clear the U opening, have room of a fan on standoffs to my heatsink , have room to breath for both buckpucks and have a 2-3 degree angle on the led assembly to shine somewhat towards the back of the edge, talk about over engineered but its a thing of beauty and punches light to all 4 corners. Edited October 9, 2010 by senoufo Quote Link to comment
Phoenix-cry Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 (edited) Here is my Fluval Saltwater. Lighting: 18 watt 50/50, 9 watt pure 10,000K, R2 5 LED Atinic moonlight. Black marine sand, painted the back of the tank black. All lights on: Moonlight only (hard to photo): Set up next a freshwater: Edited October 9, 2010 by Phoenix-cry Quote Link to comment
senoufo Posted October 13, 2010 Share Posted October 13, 2010 and now, my cycling starts: (very very happy about the light coverage, no spot lighting and a very even coverage). Quote Link to comment
senoufo Posted October 14, 2010 Share Posted October 14, 2010 so, after starting the tank on Sunday oct 10 i have not had to refill due to evaporation, which is a godsend. with proper lights, this is turning out to be an amazing little nano tank! Quote Link to comment
1fishmonger Posted October 14, 2010 Share Posted October 14, 2010 so, after starting the tank on Sunday oct 10 i have not had to refill due to evaporation, which is a godsend. with proper lights, this is turning out to be an amazing little nano tank! Holy smokes. A fluval edge cult! I have an edge without any lighting....Anyone willing to help me build a sweet little led fixture? PM if interested with costs associated! Quote Link to comment
Paleoreef103 Posted October 14, 2010 Share Posted October 14, 2010 I am kind of surprised that no one has ordered the glass Mame overflow for this thing. People are dropping sever hundred dollars on LEDs, but not an extra $150 on a sump? Just a little idea (I did see the one with an overflow box, but that Mame overflow is just gorgeous). 1 Quote Link to comment
senoufo Posted October 14, 2010 Share Posted October 14, 2010 (edited) i would suspect ( and correct me if i'm wrong ) but filtration is not the big issue with the Edge, its the crappy lights that are a showstopper. I think the AC20 included with the Edge is sufficient but i did replace with a AC30 so that i could include the heater. If i run into filtration problems i may look into this "lilly pipe" of the SW world, but since my build was no more than $200 "dropped" bucks, i doubt i would go with something so "artistic" as a mame....besides, i'll make my own design ;-) Thanks Paleoreef103 :-) Edited October 15, 2010 by senoufo Quote Link to comment
MPevine11 Posted October 14, 2010 Share Posted October 14, 2010 I am kind of surprised that no one has ordered the glass Mame overflow for this thing. People are dropping sever hundred dollars on LEDs, but not an extra $150 on a sump? Just a little idea (I did see the one with an overflow box, but that Mame overflow is just gorgeous). i wanted to drill the tank but the glass is only 5mm, many said the glass will chrack around the hole eventually. could you post a link to the Mame overflow? i want to look into it i want to add a sump/refugium Quote Link to comment
senoufo Posted October 14, 2010 Share Posted October 14, 2010 3 more fyi, the top view is interesting because the flash captured the fan inside the hood, and you'le notice two small knobs at the back of the main hood, its controlling the intensity of each color. Quote Link to comment
Fury165 Posted October 15, 2010 Share Posted October 15, 2010 Fantastic stuff, I have a FW Edge too bad I didn't see this before I set it up Quote Link to comment
eyou Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 I think the AC20 included with the Edge is sufficient but i did replace with a AC30 so that i could include the heater. Thanks Paleoreef103 :-) does the ac30 fit with no mods? Quote Link to comment
senoufo Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 no, the arm assembly needs to be taken off and the arm supports need to be cut off ( dremel took care of that in 10 seconds ). Quote Link to comment
eyou Posted October 19, 2010 Share Posted October 19, 2010 no, the arm assembly needs to be taken off and the arm supports need to be cut off ( dremel took care of that in 10 seconds ). did you need to dremel the front inserts too (the ones that help attack the side panels to the front one) Quote Link to comment
senoufo Posted October 19, 2010 Share Posted October 19, 2010 (edited) did you need to dremel the front inserts too (the ones that help attack the side panels to the front one) There are 2 plastic standoffs directly opposed to the Arm hinges that i had to cut off as well, but they are not there to hold the sides into place, i rather suspect its part of the molding process, regardless they did nothing and once cut voila, the AC30 fit beautifully. Edited October 19, 2010 by senoufo Quote Link to comment
senoufo Posted October 20, 2010 Share Posted October 20, 2010 (edited) so its been a little more than a week and the cycling is moving along rather well, i suspect the LR was well cured and the 10 minute drive didn't affect it a whole lot, parameters on Ammonia and Nitrite have dropped from very little to none, and Nitrate went from 5ppm down to undetectable ( i suspect the macro algae on the LR are sucking it all in). I have to stop myself from dosing Nitrates as i come from the world of FW ( 1 have a high-tech heavily planted 120 Gallon tank where i dose NPK as per Tom Barr's EI, Estimative index )....not used to reading 0 Nitrates lol. Hitchhikers include the above, plus a variety of feather dusters, pods, stomatellas and worms of all kinds ( including bristles ). some polyps have popped up, i'm sure there are at least 3 types of zoa's but will have to wait until they are bigger for a proper id. Very very happy with the setup, will post pictures once i'm ready to include a CUC. Edited October 20, 2010 by senoufo Quote Link to comment
classic Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 the koralia nano with 240gph would be enough for the edge right? Quote Link to comment
joking103 Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 I have one percula clown in a 24 jbj. Want to move him into my edge. Do I really need to change to lighting for fish only? I do want the led mr 11 replacements but I don't know which and nit sure if it's necessary? Quote Link to comment
Quokka Posted October 26, 2010 Share Posted October 26, 2010 Hello everyone I'm new to the sw hobby and definitely have plans for an edge as my first one. I'm aware of the challenges of starting off with a 6 gallon sw tank but I am extremely set on the design of the tank. Here's my basic plan outline, I posted it on reef central as well but I'm sure with this being a specific nano forum I can get better answers ;D i really am taking the whole "not planning is planning to fail" to quote heart and thoroughly researching before doing anything. basic plans so far are; Fluval Edge 6 gallon tank Hydor Koralia Nano 25w heater (not sure what brands i should go by yet) MR11 -> MR16 LED Conversion with these LEDs http://www.ledwholesalers.com/store/index....p;productId=537 A 10W Coralife 50/50 + Blue LED strip to supplement (if this is really necessary for soft coral? if i can i'd rather not spend more on this) I have a R/O system already in the house so im good with water. going with live sand, live rock, 1 Ocellaris Clownfish + the usual cleaning crew, and some soft corals (torch/toadstool). anything i missed out? please feel free to suggest suitable livestock that would be appropriate with my setup Quote Link to comment
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