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Pickle010

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Hey Weet! Glad to have you along!

 

Not a lot to update today - everything appears to be right on track and still have pretty high hopes of growing out this clutch - or at least giving it a try.

 

Had a little fun shoping on the Good Doctor's site today, ordered the Maxi-Jet 4500 Submersible It's probably a little more flow then I would typically want coming through a sump but it's going to be supplying 5 tanks to start and hopefully I can add a couple more on to it eventually.

 

I have to say pricing was really good compared to Marine Depot. It was $28 cheper then Marine Depot. I picked up some plumbing supplies with my order and still spent less then I would of at MD.

Edited by Pickle010
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OK... so here it is, my oder from Reed Mariculture came in today. Wished I had it a couple of days ago but it's my own fault - credit card number was one digit off.

 

Anyhow the package arrived at my office today and thankfully in good condition.

 

I waited until I got home today to break it open. Figured i didn't want to messing with the temp in the box especially since the drive home was about an hour.

 

So here it is when I opened it up:

 

IMG_6516.jpg

 

It was packed really well and had cold packs around the rots and the nano.

 

IMG_6519.jpg

 

This stuff is like gold and knowing that I wasn't going to use it all before it would go bad I used 8oz water bottles and filled each one half way. 7 in the freezer and 1 in the fridge.

 

IMG_6520.jpg

 

I started my water in the home depot bucket last night - so the water was aerated and already at the right temp. I took the bag of rots and floated it for about 15 minutes in the bucket to let the rots warm up slowly. Reeds recommended at least ten minutes... I figured a few more minutes couldn't hurt.

 

IMG_6521.jpg

 

I then cut the bag and added the rots and some nano. I DON'T LIKE THE ORANGE BUCKET - so hard to tell how green the water is. I'll check the water in a few hours to see if it lightens up any and will adjust accordingly. I have my son working along along with me so he can check the water when he gets home from school.

 

IMG_6522.jpg

 

So that's about it for now... If the eggs stay on track I will most likely have a hatch tomorrow night. I still hope I'm off a day as I'd like to give the rots a little more time to multiply before I actually harvest any for feeding.

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cheryl jordan

Question: Are clownfish more likely to breed when they are in a smaller tank? My old clownfish used to breed all the time did not matter what size tank. My current clowns have never even showed any breeding behavior, and they are about two years old. I moved my clowns to a smaller tank and they just seem more paired up, acting as though they are going to breed. No change other than the tank, same water. Just curious.

 

Thanks.

Edited by cheryl jordan
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From what I've read size doesn't matter (did I just say that?) It's really the conditions in the tank that matter most. Water quality, temps, light schedule and feedings. Most breeders will keep the tanks small to make collecting eggs or fry easier and for keeping multiple pairs in several tanks. I have talked to some people that swear by a small tank without any distractions.

 

Ultimately I believe the clowns need to have the right signals to trigger the breeding response along with a confidence that there will be food available for the fry. If that happens in a large tank or small tank really doesn't matter. I've seen plenty of people with large, very large tanks, that have pairs that spawn regularly.

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OK... so now I'm nervous that I may have overfed my rots. I'm telling you I don't like the orange bucket! I went and placed white tiles at the bottom of the bucket so I can gauge the tint better.

 

Also last night when I went to check it - it seemed much darker and greener then I expected. Playing it safe I set up another bucket identical to the first one. Got the new water up to temp and transfered some rots over to it. I tinted that one less then the first. Second guessing myself - especially after reading that a quick way to crash rots is to overfeed.

 

The water was still dark this morning but when I scooped some out in a white styrophome cup the green was deffinately lighter. I'm curious to see what it looks like tonight. If it's much lighter I'll at least know my culture is fine and eating.

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Pickle010

Looks like I'm alright. The rots are definately eating and the tint is lighting tonight. I also found new WHITE buckets today and transferred everything over. The buckets didn't come with lids but luckily the HD lids fit perfectly.

 

I've got my grow out tank ready. So if the eggs hatch tonight all I'll have to do is tranfer some tank water and the fry, add some rots, tint the water and hope for the best.

 

I did a water change on the tanks 2 nights ago so my water should be perfect.

 

Nothing left to do but wait and see if the eggs hatch tonight.

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When you started this thread i began daily cussing my clowns out. They havent grown in forever so they have to be at their max size. I feed the heck out of them so they are fat as heck. I run my tanks at 79 though since they are in my coral system and im scared to crank the temp.

 

They just wont spawn...

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Pickle010
When you started this thread i began daily cussing my clowns out. They havent grown in forever so they have to be at their max size. I feed the heck out of them so they are fat as heck. I run my tanks at 79 though since they are in my coral system and im scared to crank the temp.

 

They just wont spawn...

 

 

Keep in mind I've had the pair that is spawning now for well over 3 years. They did not start spawning until I made the adjustments in temp, lighting and salinity.

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Pickle010
take pics if the hatch, and keep us updated!

 

 

Well, I did have a hatch last night - but I don't have a whole lot of confidence in what I'm doing right now.

 

I tried to get a hold of Erik this morning but no luck on the number I have for him. I did manage to scoop and transfer a bunch of babies to the hatch tank last night. I was careful to bring over the tank water that they where hatched in with them about 5 1/2 gallons at all.

 

Now here is where I'm not sure - The rotifers - only the most important part right? I poured some rotifers through two different strainers - I used a gold filter and I tried a regular coffee filter. But the truth is I can't tell if I'm actually getting anything - hence the no confidence. So after pouring tank water through the filter, I tinted the water and covered the tank.

 

Now it's approximately 10 hours after the hatch was transferred and I can see about 12 active swimmers near the glass. They seem to be doing ok and their bellies are a bright silver color.

 

 

 

Looking back in with the pair I can see that there are a lot of eggs that did not hatch last night. I'll turn off the pumps tonight and see if the rest do not hatch out or try to hatch out tonight.

Edited by Pickle010
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GT AQUATICS

here is some tips:

1. keep rotifers at 1.015

2. take the lid off the rotifers

3. Remove the airstone and go with a rigid tubing for airation and slow it down just to move the water to turn over

4. get a 53 micron screen from florida aquafarms and ditch the coffee filters

5. remember rotifers will die if they experience a .07 difference in salinity

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Pickle010

Thanks for that!

 

I got on MOFIB earlier today and got some help there as well. As it stands right now it looks like they are ok and the fry are still alive. I know the fry can typically go 24 hours though without eating and we are just comming up on that mark.

Edited by Pickle010
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Pickle010

Day 2 Update - This morning the fry are swimming around pretty well. I'd get pictures but I just don't have the proper technology to get shots of something that is less then 1/4 of and inch long and as wide as the eye of a small needle.

 

I went yesterday and purchased a strainer. The plastic kind where you can use the handle to set it on a pot and some white coffee filters. The filters I had where brown (unbleached) but they made it impossible to see the rots. The strainer makes it easier to transfer the rots as now I can set that over a bucket, line it with a white filter and pour cupfulls of water through it. I can deffiantely see the rotifers in the bottom of the cup.

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Pickle010

Just checked on my female.... her depositer is sticking out pretty far and the pair have cleaned their laying spot pretty well. Looks like another clutch is on the way.

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Pickle010
omgomgomg omgomgomg

 

So lucky, my clowns only eat and sit in the nems all day.

 

 

I just wish I could hatch all the clutches. I can see how I'm going to run out of space quick. I haven't even got this spawn through meta yet and I'm already thinking expansion.

 

Oh.. and as expected, they just finished laying the new clutch. I swear I could set my watch to this pair.

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Pickle010

Ok... so moving on with the rots. Here is the plan, probably overkill but the scare I had yesterday has me thinking I need a back up to the back up.

 

So currently I'm running two cultures in 5 gallon containers. I've read that you can keep rots refrigerated for up to two weeks provided you tint the water a little darker and do not seal the cap tight. So that's what I'm doing I picked up a couple of gallon water bottles at SaveMart and I'm going to start dating and storing a couple of cultures in the fridge.

 

Hopefully I don't ever need them - but I'd hate to have to miss a clutch that I want to hatch because of a rots crash.

 

Couple of pics:

 

First one is tall maybe 8 inch flower vase that I use for a quick visual of the density. It's maybe as big around as a mag light handle:

 

IMG_6543.jpg

 

And this pic is about a 1 square inch portion of the same bottle... not very clear but gives you an idea of the current density of the rots:

 

IMG_6542.jpg

Edited by Pickle010
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Very cool thread I am glad I found it and will definitely be following along. I just read through it and got some really good info. I have been wanting to breed clowns for a little while but definitely want to wait till I have the space and funds for a better set up. I'd be interested to see some pics of your overall system if you don't mind. I'll also keep in mind to get white buckets first. Everything looks great though and I look forward to seeing your progress! Maybe down the road I can buy a few snows off you ;)

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Pickle010

My system is actually still being built. Currently my clowns are housed in seperate 20g talls. A few people I've talked to say that the 20g is overkill and they would of been fine in something smaller.

 

Once complete I will have 4 - 20g highs on my top shelf, a 40g breeder on my second shelf and a 55 gallon plex sump.

 

The fry are being raised in standard 10's with 3 sides painted black and the bottom of the tank painted white.

 

Also a quick tip about the fry / hatching tanks that I just learned. You'll want to place your air stone near the heater to keep the flow moving away from it and to also keep the fry away. I've read about breeders placing the stone in the center of the tank and the fry being attracted to the heater and cooking. Luckily my airstone landed there on it's own.

 

As for the bucket - I had to go to a small hardware store to find a plain white bucket. Go figure - couldn't buy one at lowes or hd. The lowes and hd ones are either grey or orange with the company logo's on them. Cheap though at about $2.50 a piece - but hard to judge the tint in the rots. I've done much better since buying the ones even though they are twice as much.

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Pickle010

Morning Day 3 update - did feed some rots this morning before headed out to work. Had just turned the lights on. Could only spot 3 swimmers. Hopefully I'll see the rest of the crew when I get home tonight.

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GT AQUATICS

painting the glass doesnt work well. I use construction paper because it is easily removable as they progress and grow

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