cptbjorn Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 Proper adhesion to PVC would only really matter if you wanted to build a tank with a PVC back or bottom, for doing an overflow anything reef safe is fine since the water pressure will actually be holding the overflow in place and the silicone doesn't have to do much. Quote Link to comment
cdelicath Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 dow makes 795 in more colors than they do 999a. Any color you want really.................................But clear. That is according to a Dow rep so I hope i'm not passing on bad info. Quote Link to comment
nano-paul Posted December 16, 2009 Author Share Posted December 16, 2009 795 glass to PVC is go!!! Dow says it bonds just fine as long as you rough up the PVC surface. Proper adhesion to PVC would only really matter if you wanted to build a tank with a PVC back or bottom, for doing an overflow anything reef safe is fine since the water pressure will actually be holding the overflow in place and the silicone doesn't have to do much. This would be correct. Quote Link to comment
cdelicath Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 795 glass to PVC is go!!! Dow says it bonds just fine as long as you rough up the PVC surface. good news then. Are you getting the same info on color choices? I was told no clear on the 795... Quote Link to comment
nano-paul Posted December 16, 2009 Author Share Posted December 16, 2009 good news then. Are you getting the same info on color choices?I was told no clear on the 795... That would be correct. No clear in 795. You have to go to the 999A. Quote Link to comment
bitts Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 daveFason's diy A.G.E. tank thread http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...217074&st=0 glass to pvc Quote Link to comment
cptbjorn Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 One thing I really like about the 732 is that it has a cap and also the whole tip unscrews so when it has been sitting for several months with the seal punctured you just have to unscrew it, remove the plug of partially cured silicone from the tip and it is good as new. ...Just got some 795 in the mail today and it just has the regular cut off tip that you have to plug with a nail which never works very well Basically single use IMO, makes it way more expensive to use... Quote Link to comment
c_k_kuehne Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 (edited) Used some 795 last night and It was fairly awesome to work with. I needed to Silicone a CVPC tube through a hole in the bottom of the tank and also silicone some generic plastic in the tank for a false wall. 795 worked great and made a really nice looking joint. I used black which looked more like really dark gray to me. 795 is the stickiest silicone I have ever used. I know that doesn't make sense but after you use 795 you'll understand what I'm talking about. Now to wait out the 14 days. Edited January 26, 2010 by c_k_kuehne Quote Link to comment
dixiedog Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 Tagging along. I think I wanna do a little 10g rimless ... with black silicone, I think. Quote Link to comment
Degener8 Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 I do not know which silicone bonds best with what. So here is my question. I would like to build a 100+ gal rimless aquarium (DIY) I am curious which silicone is best for this and what is the best way to apply it. I assume a large aquarium would need to be sliconed between the glass as well as have the bead in all corner joints. How large would the silicone need to be flated out from the corner exaxtly? This would be my first total DIY tank and planning has barely started on it. Need to start with the most basic components. Quote Link to comment
bitts Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 I do not know which silicone bonds best with what. So here is my question. I would like to build a 100+ gal rimless aquarium (DIY) I am curious which silicone is best for this and what is the best way to apply it. I assume a large aquarium would need to be sliconed between the glass as well as have the bead in all corner joints. How large would the silicone need to be flated out from the corner exaxtly? This would be my first total DIY tank and planning has barely started on it. Need to start with the most basic components. my first thought is to how thick the glass will be. there is a max depth the silicone will dry too. this may limit how you can use the silicone. as to which silicone, think this goes back to the argument about 999a vs. 795. i like 999a because it drys faster. hopefully nano-paul or one of the others will be able to weigh in though. Quote Link to comment
Degener8 Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 Glass thickness will be either 3/8 or 1/2 in glass Quote Link to comment
bitts Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 Glass thickness will be either 3/8 or 1/2 in glass here are the data sheets for the two. 999a (two versions) http://www2.dowcorning.com/DataFiles/090007c88023c52d.pdf http://www.technologylk.com/images/pdf/Spec-CRL999a.pdf 795 http://www2.dowcorning.com/DataFiles/090007c88021ffb4.pdf http://www.technologylk.com/images/pdf/Spec-CRL795.pdf can not find the max cure depth for either, but would recomend having as little outside the butt joint as posable to improve said cure. on a rimless biuld bigger is allways better to improve things like joint movement & panel deflection, so 1/2". but check aginst elos & ada tanks for comparision. if i can rember were to find the info max cure depth i will add it as soon as i have it. Quote Link to comment
Degener8 Posted March 13, 2010 Share Posted March 13, 2010 Ty bitts for the help here I am curious why these are recommended but in their limitations they all say this. Dow Corning 999-A Silicone Building & Glazing Sealant is not recommended for use in applications involving: • Prolonged water immersion we are talking about putting these in saltwater.. maybe its just a cover all for them but still seems like its saying it should not be used. Quote Link to comment
fishyj Posted March 13, 2010 Share Posted March 13, 2010 (edited) I didn't see this one on the list. Its for plastic sheets and other plastics. The only numbers on it are ges10. Edited March 13, 2010 by fishyj Quote Link to comment
lex0219 Posted March 16, 2010 Share Posted March 16, 2010 ^ Just bought some of this today. Anyone know? Quote Link to comment
bitts Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 nano paul was wondering if you still had that video of the trucks that were siliconed together at the bumper. would love to show it to my wife. Quote Link to comment
ajmckay Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 Any updates to this thread? Quote Link to comment
bitts Posted June 23, 2010 Share Posted June 23, 2010 Well used the 999a in my exo build. I'm not quite the expert nano Paul, is but all I can say is damn. With in min while still tacky was able to hold the first panel with out assistance. Have lifted the tank by the exo. Quote Link to comment
Captivating_Reef Posted July 10, 2010 Share Posted July 10, 2010 what about GE SCS 1000 contractors 100% silicone? They sell it in my fish store and told me it's good to use but the container says it is not for underwater applications. Does anyone know? I want to use it because it comes in black and clear. Thanks. Quote Link to comment
Degener8 Posted July 10, 2010 Share Posted July 10, 2010 Almost any 100% silicone is good. The deal with silicone and why none of the standard home commercial ones are listed as aquarium safe is because they don't want to be liable when you build an aquarium and pop a seam. If they sell it at your LFS odds are they have used it and its safe (no saying LFS are the gospel on this but I would hope they have done a lil bit of research) I have used GE silicone II with good results for reference. Quote Link to comment
krug1313 Posted July 10, 2010 Share Posted July 10, 2010 Is this stuff ok? I was so confused about all the silicone.. Lol. I ended up paying out the a$$ for marineland silicone from the pet store. Maybe pics of each type of safe sealant would help in this thread as well. Anyhow below is the link to the one I'm wondering about. Thanks for the help. http://m.canadiantire.ca/mt/www.canadianti...r.jsp?locale=en Quote Link to comment
c_k_kuehne Posted July 11, 2010 Share Posted July 11, 2010 (edited) Almost any 100% silicone is good. Not true. Almost all silicone is labeled 100% silicone but is not really 100%. Most sold for the home repair/construction market has mold/bacteria inhibitors. That is really what makes them no good for aquarium use. Know what the other tiny % is all about.. Also what are you using it for?? Regular aquarium silicone is usually only good for glass to glass bonding and will not properly adhere to Acrylic over the long run. GE Silicon II -- is generally not recommended for aquarium use (mold/bacteria inhibitors). Try and find GE Silicon I -- instead. Some Home Depot's and Lowes sell GE Silicon I -- but not all, depends on your location. Edited July 11, 2010 by c_k_kuehne Quote Link to comment
Degener8 Posted July 11, 2010 Share Posted July 11, 2010 GE Silicon II -- is generally not recommended for aquarium use (mold/bacteria inhibitors). Try and find GE Silicon I -- instead. Some Home Depot's and Lowes sell GE Silicon I -- but not all, depends on your location. Now you had to say that.. so I went and read every word on my tube and there is no mold inhibitors on the GE Silicone II that i have. The ones that have the mold inhibitors etc are the ones that are kitchen/bath rated. I definately checked that prior to purchasing this product but rechecked to be 100% certain. Moral of the story is know what your buying and which parts of what your buying make it safe or unsafe in this case. Quote Link to comment
bitts Posted July 12, 2010 Share Posted July 12, 2010 from what i remember hd & lowes selling GE II only instead of both, as a corporate wide change. the dow 999a is like 12 -14 online & bomb proof. Quote Link to comment
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