Todd March Posted July 10, 2002 Share Posted July 10, 2002 I am putting together a custom lighting hood for my new 20 gallon that will utilize dual 70 Watt HQI halide bulbs as well as dual 55 watt PC (actinic) flourescent bulbs... I am unsure as to which halide bulbs to purchase--the Ushio 10,000K, or the AB Aqualine 13,000K...? I am wondering how blue the Aqualine bulb is, and if AB's repuatation is hype or deserved... Anyone with any experience with either of these lamps please speak up...! Thanks Todd Link to comment
Leonard Posted July 10, 2002 Share Posted July 10, 2002 Having used both, my experience is both bulbs are about the same to the eye. PAR-wise, they're equivalent too (I have a Apogee Quantum meter). I am currently using the AB 13KKs, not for any good reason. Only thing abouth 70w (or any DE bulbs) is they get VERY hot. Be careful over a nano. Link to comment
Lunchbucket Posted July 11, 2002 Share Posted July 11, 2002 what are the dimensions of the 20gal? why not just do 1x150w HQI. the 70's and the 150s are the same price and 1x150w would be better IMO. you could have a little lower light on the ve3ry very edges for some lower light stuff but i guarantee you will like the 150 better, i know i do!! use the extra $$ you save on one of the 70's and get some corals Lunchbucket Link to comment
JIM27 Posted July 11, 2002 Share Posted July 11, 2002 I agree, just get the 150w and save some money. Link to comment
Todd March Posted July 11, 2002 Author Share Posted July 11, 2002 Thanks so much for the practical advice, Leonard, it is most appreciated. I suspected that these two bulbs were pretty similiar and now I know... Although this light fixture will include two fans, heat transfer isn't going to be a problem as I am putting a Fritz Teclima Micro Chiller/heater on the system (not a cheap option for a nano at $500, but this cooler is the product we reef keepers used to dream of--an 8" square cooler/heater with microprocessor controlled functions, no moving parts or coolant to wear away, and extremly low wattage consumption!) Because I want to light my reef tank, and corals within it, and NOT the entire left side of my living room, a pendant lamp was out, although I have seen wonderful smaller reef aquariums (15, 20 gal.) wonderfully light by one 150 Watt HQI pendant. The ambient light from a pendant is just too distracting for my tastes though...And furthermore, I didn't want to have to put a giant hood or massive canopy over my little 16" high tank. The choice of dual 70 watt'er HQI's, as oppossed to a single 150 Watt bulb, was becauce this 4" high by 23" long fixture will be directely on top on the aquarium, placing the bulbs only 2"-3" over water level; the spread of a 150 Watt at this height is greatly reduced, with a too strong point of intensity in the center of a 24" long tank. Dual 70 Watt bulbs spreads the light out, and for illuminating only a 12"-14" depth of water, provide the perfect intensity at a close range of only an inch or two. And since I plan to almost exclusively keep SPS corals, an even and strong band of light is strongly desired (ruling out an all CP lighting system from the get go). The 70 watt HQI's don't seem too terribly popular in this country, which is a shame, as for shallow nano-reefs they are so ideal. But like they shop for so many other things in this country, money speaks to Americans, and why should they pay the same price for half the wattage?! The 70 Watt bulbs are so much more popular in Europe, I have no doubt, because Europeans look for the right product for the job and the well being of the animals being cultivated first, and shop for value after that... This, and this reason only, is why the finest equipment and cultivation practices for aquaria have come from Germany for many years now. From the canister filter to halide reef lighting–it all came from Germany (when I first started keeping reefs over 15 years ago, the only protein skimmers you could find where from Sanders and Tunze--there were NO American made protien skimmers available). Lucky for me I am making good money now, and can set this tank up correctly from the start. Reef tanks I had in the past were much more modestly set up and altogether too DYI for my tastes... Something I have learned from years of aquaria keeping is that I like to spend time watching and enjoying tanks and the wonderful creatures within them, and not spend hours tinkering below or above it with homemade unproven products. Although I am the first to admit that you learn more about how something works exactely by making it and tinkering to get it to perform right. DYI'ing can be the best teacher around. But honestly, I am tired of class and just want to have a small easy to keep reef tank to watch... If saving money is a big factor, a penguin power filter on a tank with plastic everlast plants, stocked with guppies, is a real bargain...! Link to comment
Lunchbucket Posted July 11, 2002 Share Posted July 11, 2002 ahh, i see what you are saying now about a pendant etc. really a pendant will not throw that much more into the outside. as for keeping all SPS w/ the 70w HQI...i truely think you will regret not getting 150's. the colors just do not show up w/ the 70w HQI...i should know i had a 70w HQI for months w/ no luck and now w/ a 150 they are just starting to show up. i feel that you will be dissapointed in the color gained from the 70w HQI's and not the 150's anther think that i don't feel you should do is keep the light only 2-3" off your water. this is not the practice w/ halides. minimum reccomened distance is usualy 8-10" from the waters surface. this is WAY less. also, aren't HQI's supposed to run hot so they function properly? so this would not be good to have 2 fans in the pendant. just throwing my experience and MO out there for you Lunchbucket Link to comment
Leonard Posted July 11, 2002 Share Posted July 11, 2002 A couple of small points for correction/clarification: HQI is the wrong term used to describe all DE bulbs. Let's call double ended bulbs DE bulbs from now on, and stop misusing the term HQI (FYI, HQI is a specific patented technology of Osram only). Germans don't use 70W lights because they're better, but because they use less electricity. Most Europeans pay through their noses for electricity, and so try to minimize all usage. That's why aspirating skimmers (needle wheels) are popular there. It's not because US made Beckett's don't perform better. It's a poor blanket statement that they have us beat in all regards. (DSB methodology versus bare-bottomed "true" Berlin comes immediately to mind ) I do evny German pumps, and the fit-n-finish of most of their lights. Do NOT (editted to correct original typo) blow fans directly across DE bulbs. This will lead to severe color shifts and possible explosion. Todd, I am in your boat .... my nano has cost me a small fortune too (www.reefscapes.net/nano/nano.html). Link to comment
Lunchbucket Posted July 12, 2002 Share Posted July 12, 2002 nice info....didn't know that i still vote for a 150 or dual 150's Lunchbucket Link to comment
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