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Innovative Marine Aquariums

New JBJ 28g LED tank


Crease123

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Dustin C Mills

In related news...

 

JBJ emailed me back yesterday in between all the hoopla I was experiencing with this reply about their LED system. I thought I would share it with all of you...

 

I followed up their reply with a question about how much it would cost for these replacement parts and have yet to hear back from them.

 

Hello,

 

Thank you for your email and inquiry on our new 28g LED Nano Cube.

 

A lot of research was implemented to make this new lighting system easy for maintenance without having to send in your hood in the unlikely event the LEDs were to have a problem. These LEDs are specially made for us with the designated color and wattage.

 

First off,

 

Daylights – 14K

These Daylights strips (5 strips each containing 5x3W LEDS are individually wired with a male plug that is inserted into a current regulator. In the event there was a problem, you simply unplug the old strip and plug the new one in the current regulator female socket. No wiring or soldering is necessary

 

Dawn/Dusk – Actinics

These individual 3W are also male/female boards that can easily be replaced.

 

Moonlights –

These 1 Watt LEDs run off of an individual outside transformer and are driven by a low 350ma driver and each component can also be replaced easily.

 

All parts will be prepacked for retailers so consumers will have access to parts at their local retailers and online.

 

Please see the pictures attached and the exploded view on the manual ( pages 6 & 7) so you can see how the set up is.

 

Let us know if you have any further questions, we would be happy to answer …

 

Thanks,

 

 

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JBJ LED Hood

 

1234.jpg

Current Regulator+Heatsink

 

1235.jpg

Current Regulator Connections

 

12355.jpg

Dawn&Dusk 3Watt w/Male and Female Connectors

 

123466.jpg

Daylight 14K Strip w/Male and Female Connectors

 

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In related news...

 

JBJ emailed me back yesterday in between all the hoopla I was experiencing with this reply about their LED system. I thought I would share it with all of you...

 

I followed up their reply with a question about how much it would cost for these replacement parts and have yet to hear back from them.

 

 

 

 

123.jpg

JBJ LED Hood

 

1234.jpg

Current Regulator+Heatsink

 

1235.jpg

Current Regulator Connections

 

12355.jpg

Dawn&Dusk 3Watt w/Male and Female Connectors

 

123466.jpg

Daylight 14K Strip w/Male and Female Connectors

 

 

 

Oh my. I think we'll have to get Evil in here to make the final judgment call :-)

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Interesting. Looks like they are using LEDs from Edison, which is good. Drivers are dirt simple. Looks like just LM317 voltage regulators in a current limiting mode. That would explain the heatsink on the back of the board.

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No I don't think heat will be a problem, I'm still dialing in my heater to keep it around 77ish....

 

About the lighting, I dont know if it will be ok. But is sure looks cool with the shimmering....

 

John

 

 

Hi John,

 

Nice pics!! Just wondering what LED arrangement you selected (ex. WWBWW or WBWBW)

or did you go with the default? (W50B50W)

 

I'm thinking of purchasing and would want to know what looks best and what would really brighten up my corals... not sure if too much blue is overkill?

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...

Not my thread and not my tank but I have one.

 

I am using it as a temporary tank for my RBTA, two SPS and a whole bunch of LPS while I move my main tank. Its stock across the board except for the media in the media rack. That is two small bags of chemipure elite. I also am using a Vortech MP10 set on Reef Crest (I don't have time to fart about with making a wave).

 

I also have a PAR meter. So for those of you who were asking its akin to a 150w MH with a Phoenix 14k DE bulb in it.

 

3" under water PAR 340-380

5" under water PAR 295-350

8" under water PAR 248-275

>8" under water PAR 150-260

 

Difference in PAR was due to placement of sensor in relation to a given LED as well as the LED type (blue vs. white). Test was not structured as it was my hand and a tong via the opening for feeding.

 

Wavemaker on the damn thing is not worth a warm bucket of spit. Get an MP10 for it and pull one of the returns as well as the divider baffle on that side and replace it with a skimmer like a Tunze 9002. Replace the remaining pump with a Maxijet 900+ and a Hydor Flo if you can't afford a MP10 or a Maxijet 400 if you can.

 

Media rack is a nice touch (I think they stole the idea from StevieT) and well engineered. Ditch the bio-rings and the stock carbon and use Chemipure Elite or its analog in both compartments or a bulk carbon and bulk phosphate remover (one in each chamber) or one chamber with carbon and the other with a cheato ball and small light for a 'fuge'.

 

SPS are coloring nicely and extending polyps. LPS the same. Anemone is actually bubbling again but is reaching for the light a bit. That is because she is in the very bottom of the tank and off to the side. But she is inflating and looks happy even though she is coming from a 6 bulb 34 watt ATI power module to this.

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Great, thanks for the PAR info and other comments.

 

I have the CF Quad version of this tank and am considering the LED replacement hood for it. I replaced both return pumps with MH1200’s and honestly find it a bit much for what I am doing, so I am running the stock wave maker. It’s not great, but it’s all I have for now.

 

In the media basket, I’m going floss, cheato, and small bags of Chemipure Elite and Purigen in the bottom.

 

I have been following the other thread as well. This one has just been around longer so hoping to get some longer term results.

 

Thanks!

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