Becact's Zeovit SPS Cadlights 39g Sig

[ap123]

This tank looks great! Beautiful pieces you've got. I'm always interested to watch the progress of these zeo tanks.

[Reefman36]

How are you liking the euroreef skimmer and ATI lights?

[becact]

they are both really nice. The ER skimmer hasn't had much chance to work, though, since I've added epoxy putty every 2 or 3 days rescaping. I shold do my final aquascape tonight, though, as i just sold off some pieces

[Reefman36]

Does your er skimmer have 1or2 pumps? I had the rsm er skimmer with two pumps in the beginning and had to go with one pump because it was way to much. Microbubbles were escaping. Now it works great!

[imcosmokramer]

tank looks great.

[becact]

Does your er skimmer have 1or2 pumps? I had the rsm er skimmer with two pumps in the beginning and had to go with one pump because it was way to much. Microbubbles were escaping. Now it works great!

 

1 pump.

 

Thanks again everyone. I just finished redoing my aquascape for the final time, hopefully. I sold off everything I didn't like and tried to give the ones I did keep some grow out room. I'll wait until the tank clears up to take pics.

[nanoreefnate]

Hi, my names Nate and I'd like to know how the ZEO-vit system works.

Thanks.

btw, cool tank.

[becact]

Hi, my names Nate and I'd like to know how the ZEO-vit system works.

 

Basically you just drop a bunch of supplements in your tank all willy-nilly style and see what happens

 

Seriously though, check out the guide here:

 

http://www.korallen-zucht.de/files/zeoguid...3_english-1.pdf

[nanoreefnate]

Basically you just drop a bunch of supplements in your tank all willy-nilly style and see what happens

 

Seriously though, check out the guide here:

 

http://www.korallen-zucht.de/files/zeoguid...3_english-1.pdf

its a PDF!

is it safe?

[becact]

its a PDF!

is it safe?

 

Probably not, it was written by Germans.

[nanoreefnate]

Probably not, it was written by Germans.

to bad i already opened it...

anyways, why did you decide to use ZEO-vit?

doesnt it cost more than a fuge?

[becact]

I personally believe for a fuge to hold enough macroalgae to be effective at out-competing nuisance algae, it needs to be very large. The people with big tanks that have a 75g full of chaeto have the right idea. I know I have read somewhere that for the ratio to be similar to nature you need about 10x your display volume dedicated to macro! As for DSB, I am not convinced of their long term stability. Also, I don't believe there is enough surface area for a DSB to make any difference in this tank, and running one would take up valuable display volume.

 

The fuge chamber on the cad tank is about 4x6", so no go with the macro, and putting a DSB in there would just be silly, IMO.

 

Zeovit does cost money, but on a tank my size the cost is really quite negligible over the long term. For example, the stones cost $14 per liter, and I use 0.2 L for 6 weeks before exchanging them. So that $14 bag lasts me 30 weeks; more than half a year. One of the main supplements costs $14 for a 10ml bottle, but I only dose two drops per week! Assuming 20 drops per ml (a common measurement standard), the bottle should last 2 years. The other main additive, a carbon dosing supplement, costs $30 for a 250ml bottle, but I only dose 0.2ml per day, so that one should last 3.5 years! The product will expire before I will run out . So while it cost me over $100 to buy the reactor and all the chemicals, I am now set for a while. I think start up costs are similar to setting up a phosphate reactor (not used with ZV), a fuge light, sand for a DSB, etc.

 

The other supplements for coral health are optional, but for my small tank $30 bottles last well over a year. I can see how it would get very expensive for very large tanks though, on the order of hundreds of gallons!

 

Basically, it is just an experiment. If I get tired of it, I can always just quit and set up my reactor as a phosphate reactor. But it is a lot easier and faster to start your tank with ZV from the get-go than it is to try to turn an established tank into an operational ZV tank (up to a year for very established tanks).

[nanoreefnate]

Interesting... but im pretty sure that the 10x your display is incorrect. i mean sure theres plenty of shoreline on the ocean but how much is really mangroves, halimeda, cheato, and calurpa? A lot less then the whole contents of the ocean i would think... but reefs still thrive.

 

I do agree with you that the space allotted in AIO's are too small to make much of a difference. Also, since you are running a fairly small tank that cost would stay fairly low.

[timdanger]

full disclosure, i'm frequently dealing with nuisance algae. also, i frequently don't know what i'm talking about.

 

and, i have had my own concerns about the surface area of the DSB in the small sump fuge (6x11).

 

however, my thought with including chaeto and a DSB was not to completely eliminate problem algae (although that would be nice), but rather to achieve natural nitrate reduction, which i feel like i've successfully done (as i've never tested any detectable nitrates since setting up the tank in august). this would be for the purpose of maintaining a healthy ecosystem for fish and inverts.

 

this is not a "show tank" per se, and i have a lawnmower blenny to feed, so i am not going for an "algae free" environment. but i was kind of under the impression that a little algae is not a bad thing, and is just part of an ecosystem? i am really stepping outside of my "expertise comfort zone" in saying this, but mightn't it be bad to eliminate algae from a system entirely?

[becact]

Interesting... but im pretty sure that the 10x your display is incorrect. i mean sure theres plenty of shoreline on the ocean but how much is really mangroves, halimeda, cheato, and calurpa? A lot less then the whole contents of the ocean i would think... but reefs still thrive.

 

I do agree with you that the space allotted in AIO's are too small to make much of a difference. Also, since you are running a fairly small tank that cost would stay fairly low.

 

Well, how much of that ocean is reefs? From what I read, the reefs, which are of course in shallow water, have a close symbiotic relationship with nearby macro filled waters. It would make sense, because both macros and reefs need nutrient rich waters to survive. Like I said, it's just something I came upon in my reading, and at best, natural reef to macro ratios are just an academic debate. I'm sure any amount of chaeto helps, but more is better, of course.

 

 

full disclosure, i'm frequently dealing with nuisance algae. also, i frequently don't know what i'm talking about.

 

and, i have had my own concerns about the surface area of the DSB in the small sump fuge (6x11).

 

however, my thought with including chaeto and a DSB was not to completely eliminate problem algae (although that would be nice), but rather to achieve natural nitrate reduction, which i feel like i've successfully done (as i've never tested any detectable nitrates since setting up the tank in august). this would be for the purpose of maintaining a healthy ecosystem for fish and inverts.

 

this is not a "show tank" per se, and i have a lawnmower blenny to feed, so i am not going for an "algae free" environment. but i was kind of under the impression that a little algae is not a bad thing, and is just part of an ecosystem? i am really stepping outside of my "expertise comfort zone" in saying this, but mightn't it be bad to eliminate algae from a system entirely?

 

You're right. Unfortunately, I don't think you can ever really eliminate algae. Eliminating a nuisance algae outbreak is the goal! In this tank, I had to clean the glass for the first time today. With modifications to ZV dosing, I might be able to eliminate or greatly reduce the algae, but some will probably always be there. I'm sure all kinds of animal plankton feed off the algae, so it is not a bad thing to have a little. Recall also that in the reefs, which are much lower nutrient than our tanks, tangs and such have plenty of algae to pick at.

 

My DSB being useless in small fuges comment was based on something I read which indicated DSBs only gain their function, or become efficient at nitrate reduction, further out from the glass walls, like a foot out. So someone with a 3 by 6 foot tank bottom running a DSB would have some denitrifying area to work with, whereas someone with a 40 breeder might not have much effective area. Again, everyone has differing opinions on this issue, and I've not done a ton of research of DSBs. But even assuming DSBs are equally effective over their whole area, you've got to wonder how effective a very tiny surface area (as is common with nano DSBs) can really be.

 

Also, don't rely on nitrate testing to tell you how your tank is doing nutrient wise. I know that sounds absurd, but in my 90g, which was an algae farm, my nitrates always tested 0. This is because as soon as a trace of nitrate is produced, it is consumed by the algae. I would use phosphate as a more useful measure of the tank's nutrient state, personally. Though this is also consumed by the algae, it seems to linger in the water so you can test it. Perhaps the algae can not consume it as fast as the nitrate, or needs less of it (that's a question for a biologist!). I have known people to have very high nitrates, but still not have an algae outbreak, so I've formed the opinion that phosphate is the oft overlooked culprit with nuisance algae problems, not the commonly ascribed nitrates, which are more a problem for animal health, IMO.

 

If I could offer some advice Tim, I would honestly suggest to remove the DSB in your fuge, and just pack that area full of chaeto and mangroves. I think the space would be much better served in that function. Plus, you give more room for pods and other critters to multiply (a good thing). But I would even more highly suggest doing a ton of research and drawing your own conclusion!

[nanoreefnate]

Well, how much of that ocean is reefs? From what I read, the reefs, which are of course in shallow water, have a close symbiotic relationship with nearby macro filled waters. It would make sense, because both macros and reefs need nutrient rich waters to survive. Like I said, it's just something I came upon in my reading, and at best, natural reef to macro ratios are just an academic debate. I'm sure any amount of chaeto helps, but more is better, of course.

i guess it is...

agreed, more cheato = more happiness.

 

If I could offer some advice Tim, I would honestly suggest to remove the DSB in your fuge, and just pack that area full of chaeto and mangroves. I think the space would be much better served in that function. Plus, you give more room for pods and other critters to multiply (a good thing). But I would even more highly suggest doing a ton of research and drawing your own conclusion!

+1

[becact]

New pics, this is the final aquascape for a while. I sold off a bunch of stuff and tried to give everything some grow out room; we'll see how it does!

 

I also did my first zeo media exchage, and I'm happy to report that now that I'm through with all the epoxy the skimmer finally has a chance to work well.

 

The jawfish is still in the back. I'm only feeding in the front, so I hope he catches on. I really want him to move to the house I built. If I could figure out a way to catch him, I would use the tupperware method to acclimate him to it, but it's impossible to catch a jawfish when they've built their burrow under your rocks. Any tips on getting him out?

 

My tuxedo urchin has parked on top of my chaeto and is slowly consuming the whole clump, lol. I don't mind, it was supposed to be temporary to give the pods a chance to establish. the mandarin seems to have plenty to eat; he pecks the rock every few seconds and is plump. I hope this tank can sustain him.

 

The SPS is coloring up nicely. the large stag on the upper left was brown when it went in (check the first pics), and now is coloring up to a nice green and blue. Nothing much to do now except wait!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[davidr2340]

This tank equals...

 

Beautiful!!!

[Rehype]

+1 i totally agree

[Paleoreef103]

I like the tank! It looks great. I'll be following not just for the tank, but to hear the trials and tribulations of the ZeoVit system for "nanos"

[becact]

thanks guys

 

Having some trouble dialing in the skimmer. When I feed foam production stops; the skimmer merely produces small popping bubbles at the water line inside the skimmer. It's just thawed mysis with no additional supplement, so I'm not sure what's up with that. Rehype said his skimmer actually starts to pull more skimmate when he feeds, so something is wrong with my tuning, I guess. Also, I woke up this morning to find the cup overflowed. Last night was the first time dosing 2 part (I had to wait for levels to drop to zeovit recommended levels), so that's the only thing I can think of to blame it on.

 

I'm considering pulling the skimmer out and giving it a thorough washing, just to rule that out. There's about 3 sticks of aquamend in the tank! . Fully cured, of course, but it may have messed with the skimmer.

[becact]

I decided to modify my skimmer a tad while it was out for a cleaning.

 

At the bottom of the stock skimmer is a foam block, and below that, an effluent valve of sorts which consists of a 4 progressively larger drilled holes describing an arc about the bottom plate, with a pivot in the middle, about which an elongated plate rotates. With the rotating plate, one can close off holes in progressive order to regulate the rate of effluent leaving the skimmer. However, the width of the rotating plate is such that only two holes may at one time be blocked.

 

I decided to remove the foam pad. My theory is that it will accumulate with food and detritus, and besides possibly releasing nitrates if not cleaned regularly, the clogging will affect the effluent flow rate, demanding changes in the adjustable height of the skimmer over time. Whenever the pad is cleaned, the skimmer would need to be re-tuned via height adjustment. Besides, the point of the foam pad is to trap air bubbles, and the design of the cad is such that I think the tank can allow air bubbles to escape on their own.

 

Besides removing the foam pad, I blocked off two of the four effluent release holes. The problem with the original effluent valve is that the rotating plate can only cover 2 holes at a time. With the foam pad inserted, this works well, but removing the pad allows a lot more flow to escape the bottom of the skimmer, necessitating the need to have complete control over the effluent rate, up to and including shutting it off. I'd like to point out that this is not a flaw with ER's design, only a modification that needed to be done because I removed the stock foam pad!

 

With my modification, currently the skimmer is about an inch lower than the highest height adjustment possible. This keeps the pump as high as possible, which allows the pump to work less to pull air (pulling air under the water uses work, and decreases the efficiency of the pump). Currently, about half of the largest hole is open to allow effluent to escape (I imagine the velocity out of that hole is high), and the water level within the skimmer is still about 1.5" below the bottom of the collection cup. I'm going to let it break in at this point overnight and see where it stands in the morning

[Nemo Niblets]

Those rics rock!

[becact]

thanks buddy There are a few in the back that you can't see, so I'm thinking about buying a small live rock to glue them all down to.

[Nemo Niblets]

I love ricordea... Is your tank SPS dominated because you like SPS the best, or is it because you want an SPS theme?