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48" LED fixture - Lots of photos


Dave_uk

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Any chance of a parts list for the Arduino & where to buy in uk. Thought I'd finished my build but I'm too jealous now :lol:

 

Parts list and links for the Arduino part of the project:-

 

Arduino

LCD Sheild

Protoshield board

DS1307RTC Chip

Holder for RTC

32.756kHz Crystal - I think I bought this from bitbox.co.uk

CR2032 Battery holder

CR2032 Battery - Standard type, available everywhere

DS18B20 Temp Sensor

Dual Power Mosfet Driver

 

Resistors

1 x 4k7 for temp sensor

2 x 10k for RTC Chip

1 x 220R for second timing LED

 

We also used some molex connectors to connect the wires from the buckpucks and temp sensor etc.

 

In total it cost around £50 in parts to put together.

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Quick update:

 

All of the corals seem to be doing well. My frogspawn and cornet were sulking for a few days but seem much better now. My xenia especially likes the new lighting and is pulsing better than ever. Im going to increase the LEDs to about 65% this weekend.

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For anyone that had downloaded the arduino code, there is a slight bug... the line:-

 

else {tickrate = 59;}

 

should be

 

else {tickrate = 60;}

 

otherwise it will run fast.

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Aother quick update:

 

I increased the array to 65% today and the corals appear to have responded well, especially my frogspawn which was sulking a bit when I first made the switch to LEDs but its now fully extended and looks great. Its even started to show some new growth.

 

It took me a few days to get used to the new lights as they look so different to the T5's but Im now very happy with the more dramatic look and vibrant colours and the shimmer is fantastic. Im also very happy with the dawn to dusk cycle as I have never liked the on/off timer setup.

 

Unfortunately I dont have the equipment to measure PAR but from the way my corals are reacting i think I have found a level similar or slightly higher than the 4 54w T5s which is great as its using about half the electricity. I will be running at this level for a week and will then probably increase to 75%.

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Awesome build Dave_UK. Thanks also for the details on the arduino dawn/dusk gadget. I hope to put LED lighting on my next build, and then upgrade it to an arduino sunrise/sunset as soon as I can figure it out properly. And hopefully the details posted are enough to get me going.

 

In any case, your arduino board, with the added LCD, seems the nicest and most complete implementation of this that I've seen anywhere. It's been fun to read about.

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Awesome build Dave_UK. Thanks also for the details on the arduino dawn/dusk gadget. I hope to put LED lighting on my next build, and then upgrade it to an arduino sunrise/sunset as soon as I can figure it out properly. And hopefully the details posted are enough to get me going.

 

In any case, your arduino board, with the added LCD, seems the nicest and most complete implementation of this that I've seen anywhere. It's been fun to read about.

 

Thanks.

 

Ive tried to give as much info as I can as I know how helpfull the info from other build threads can be.

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this thread is great! im going to be starting my LED fixture soon for my 56G tank, im going with 60 LED's but going to have a computer friend of mine replicate your controller over a 36x18x21 tank using 60* optics. thanks a bunch for posting all of the great info!

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Update:

 

Corals still appear to be doing well and growing faster than under T5s, especially the pipe organ and frogspawn which has become aggressive with sweeper tenticles all over the place. I assume its making sure there is plenty of space to grow around it. The only coral thats not doing too well is a small blasto frag that has retracted a little. If it doesnt improve I will move it further down away from the LEDs.

 

The array is still currently running at a peak of 65% with a 14 hour cycle (with 2 hours dawn & 2 hour dusk) and I will be increasing this to 75% this weekend if there are no further issues with the corals. I dont think I will need to increase it further than this for the current livestock, although I may turn up the blues a little more to raise the colour temp a little.

 

Ive just been given an updated version of the arduino code which fixes some bugs and adds a handy temperature readout to the LED Test menu. For anyone thats using the code, the update (release 10) is available via the first link.

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Hello Dave,

 

This is such a nice build, I've been studying it to build my own. I just have a couple of questions regarding the Arduino board. I have no experience with it so the questions are pretty simple.

 

I've seen on nuelectronics that they have Freeduino. I know it's an open-source version of the Arduino. But are there any differences ? I mean, is there anything else to do to have the Freeduino running that I would'nt have to do with Arduino ? I'm a newbee and I don't want to lose time finding out how the Freeduino works whereas there's so much info about Arduino.

 

Thanks Dave !

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Hello Dave,

 

This is such a nice build, I've been studying it to build my own. I just have a couple of questions regarding the Arduino board. I have no experience with it so the questions are pretty simple.

 

I've seen on nuelectronics that they have Freeduino. I know it's an open-source version of the Arduino. But are there any differences ? I mean, is there anything else to do to have the Freeduino running that I would'nt have to do with Arduino ? I'm a newbee and I don't want to lose time finding out how the Freeduino works whereas there's so much info about Arduino.

 

Thanks Dave !

 

I think they are the same but just non-branded. I would still buy the Arduino though as they are pretty cheap and not a big part of the build cost.

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The best luck I have had photographing LED's is a ridiculously slow shutter speed and a tripod. I have taken some awesome photos of LED's that way. Anything that fluoresces will come out crystal clear, but the dark blue/shaded areas will seem a little funky; almost like they are 2D.

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Hey, guess what? I found one of my Royal Blue LED photos!

 

This is a 5g aquarium I set up for some blind cave tetras. Used the Red Sea coral ornaments for kicks. I can't remember the settings I used to get this to come out right, but the shutter speed was like 2 seconds lol...

 

You can see what I mean about the blue/shaded areas looking 2D.

post-7376-1259344715_thumb.jpg

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wow. thats a great photo.

 

I had another try today but still couldnt get anything decent. Im on ly using a compact digital camera which doesnt have many options though so maybe thats why.

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After a hell of a lot of playing around with the settings on my camera I finally have a few coral photos to post. They are still not great but after a minor bit of photoshopping the colours are pretty accurate but still a little less bright that they look under the LEDs.

 

gsp.jpg

pipe_organ.jpg

neon_eyes_zoas.jpg

AOG_zoas.jpg

frogspawn.jpg

blasto.jpg

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For anyone that wants to copy the controller design, Ive just been told by the guy that built it that it should also work with meanwell drivers too with the addition of just a 10v power supply and possibly a pull up resistor. This is because it uses a dual power MOSFET driver on the output which will convert TTL level signals into high current outputs at voltages up to 15v. Not sure how many meanwells you could run in parralel without knowing the input requirement for the PWM connections. (MOSFET driver is max 200mA)

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